Makita MLT 100
this instructable will show you how to adjust the rip saw arm to within one sheet of paper of being level and square to the saw blade.
I am an avid D.I.Y.er and Accuracy is everything to me.
Step 1: Adjust the Table Saw Blade
unplug the power to the power saw.
raise the table saw blade all the way up.
next to the power button, behind the blade riser handle is the locking leaver, rotate it clock wise 180 degrees.
place your square flat against the steel sable saw bed / base, ensure it is clean and free from sawdust and debris or this will affect your outcome.
Gently place the ruler section of your square against the blade, while watching the space between the blade and square; slowly rock the WHEEL behind the blade raising handle clock wise and anti clockwise until there is no light passing between the blade and the square.
Once you are happy there is no light flip the leaver anticlockwise 180 degrees, locking the blade in place.
now you have locked it in place, Check it once again for square
Step 2: Inspecting for Defects
Undo both the Allen key screws holding the adjustment carrage to the cast aluminum sliding Mechanism
undo both black knobs holding the actual rip saw arm.
Inspect all parts for defects. Replace parts where necessary.
Step 3: Secure the Rip Arm to the Adjustment Block
Secure the rip arm to the adjustment block
you can’t adjust the arm if it has unnecessary movement in it, tighten them securely.
I would even recommend using lock tight 401 or equivalent
tightening these two knobs is very orquad due to the closeness they are situated to each other.
I found my pliers were too small and I could not find my multi grips.
While unconventional, using a g clamp over the knobs did the job.
Step 4: Adjustment Time
Slide the entire arm over to the blade securing the locking leaver to the table. Within 4mm should be fine for now because
there is 5 mm of adjustment in the Allen key adjustment system.
With the Allen key adjustment screws loose, place the rip arm against the saw blade and secured with a two G clamps.
Check with a square the rip arm to the table base. If it is not square, check the blade again. if the blade is still square then your arm is bent.
If both are square that’s fantastic.
with the blade and fence arm square un do the locking arm on the fence and slide it left towards the blade. push the aluminum adjustment block left until both alien screws are hard up against the right hand side of the slot they sit in.
if you can’t align both, get as close as you can.
Be aware, Tightening up your Allen screws will move the rip arm. You will need to ensure the locking arm of the fence arm is undone.
Tighten the Allen screws up until there is slight resistance.
Check with a square on the rip arm and ensure it has not moved.
From here on, every 1/8 of a turn of the Allen key we are going to check with the square the blade and rip arm. in addition keep moving the locking leaver of the rip arm into locked and open position, this is a good thing at the minute, we don’t want to twist the arm from the Aluminum cast lock arm. Locking and unlocking will make it move freely into position without moving the arm.,
I also found that if there was dust or shavings in the track the aluminum slider sits in it will change the square of the rip arm.
I also noted if the rip arm is not completely flat against the saw bed it will move out of square vertically, that’s equally as bad.
Ensure everything is done slowly to prevent movement, check everything as you go.
Finally question what every movement or step is doing to the rip arm.
Once you are happy with everything, undo both g clamps. If nothing moves check both distances on each end of the saw blade with a sheet of paper.
If there is space on one end but not the other give the adjustment block a light tap until both sheets are under equal pressure.
If after several attempts you can’t get it even, undo the Allen keys and remove the g clamps.
Restart the process with the sheets already in place; take more time aligning the arm with the Allen keys screws.
Even try moving the locking mechanism of the arm to the saw table to the right a mm or 2.
To confirm this process works after I was happy I had a true 90 degree arm to the blade, I undid all parts and started once again.
Repeating the process gave the same outcome within several minutes.
I added lock tight to everything once it was in place, while I know it is meant to go in the nut I did not want to do it a third time. yes i over did that too. lol
you can now cut with confidence
I hope you enjoyed this ible.
with advice from Pfred2 I will adjust my arm so it secures on both ends.