Introduction: Mark I Super Psyllium Passivia Speakers

Picture of Mark I Super Psyllium Passivia Speakers

Inspired by the multitude of speaker designs on instructables, what better way to enter the Art of Sound fray than to make YAS (Yet Another Speaker)! We are regular people here at Regularity Audio Labs, and had these wonderful empty containers scattered about the house. A tube enclosure speaker came to mind with the enclosure driving the design. Design: Find an inexpensive full range shielded speaker to fit a bottom cutout, retain the screw-on lid as an access hatch, and add feet so the speakers wouldn't roll around. The speaker drivers are 3", full range, magnetically shielded, rated at 30 watts/8 ohms and could probably substitute as the mains in a low powered multimedia setup, or a small desktop monitor system. The driver spec sheet recommended a 2L sealed enclosure. The containers are 1.9L, close enough!

Step 1: Parts and Tools

Picture of Parts and Tools


The speaker drivers ($12/each), back connectors, spikey feet, speaker wire, and poly stuffing were purchased online. All the rest locally sourced.

2 - 1.9L plastic fiber containers from big box store (regularity is good, ask Jamie Lee!)
2 - 3" magnetically shielded full range speakers(30 watts/8ohms) (speakers came with gaskets)
4- speaker connectors (2 black, 2 red)
8 - slip on connectors for the terminals
8 - pairs of fasteners to attach speakers to enclosures
4 - spikey feet
fiber filling
speaker wire
8 - #4 lead fishing weight eggs
duct tape


Dremel Tool with router attachment OR Xacto knife for cutting driver opening
Drill with assortment of drill bits. You'll need a 3/8" bit for the spikey feet.
Small wrenches
Soldering iron and solder (if you break off a speaker terminal like I did)
Needle nose plier
Wire stripper
18" long thin hardwood dowel
Allen wrench
Permanent marker
Tape measure to calculate enclosure circumference and calculate 60 degree foot spacing
Ruler with mm scale
sandpaper & safety razor to smooth: cuts, sharp edges, and drill hole burrs
cello tape

Step 2: Mark and Cut Speaker Cutout, Drill Speaker Mounting Holes

Picture of Mark and Cut Speaker Cutout, Drill Speaker Mounting Holes

This is by far the hardest step. The drivers require a 71mm circular cutout. Center the supplied gasket, tape in place, and mark the cutout with a permanent marker. The bottom plastic is tough. I don't like freehand cuts with a razor knife. My Dremel with router attachment cut a fairly decent hole. In order to accurately drill the speaker mounting holes, drop the speaker into the cutout, center and secure with tape, then drill through the speaker flange holes from the top into the container enclosure below. Just be careful and don't slip and damage the speaker cone or surround. The speaker is secured with hex head metric machine screws (#4/.70) with a pronged mounting nut installed backwards. When mounting the speaker later, a long hardwood dowel allows you to hold the nut in place while tightening the screw.

Step 3: Locate Spikey Feet and Add Weights

Picture of Locate Spikey Feet and Add Weights

The spikey feet come in a set of 4, 2 for each speaker. They require a 3/8" drilled hole. Note the feet and internal hardware must clear the back of the installed speaker driver unit. The feet are mounted 60 degrees apart. Measure the circumference of the cylinder with a tape measure, divide by six, and measure and mark half of the result on each side of the centerline (the container label has a centerline). I ultimately mounted the feet with the nubby ends facing out, to minimize surface scratches. Due to the weight of the driver units, the speakers are front heavy and flop forward. To counteract this, I added 4 lead fishing weights in a duct tape "package" taped to the back of the speaker.

Step 4: Attach External Connectors and Make Internal Cables

Picture of Attach External Connectors and Make Internal Cables

The container lid makes a great removeable access hatch and mounting panel for the external speaker wire connectors. For the internal cables, use a 40cm length of speaker wire, strip ends, attach slide-on connectors and crimp. This cable stays inside the enclosure and connects the front speaker driver to the back cap. Note, the slide-on connectors for the speaker drivers are much narrower than for the back connectors.

Step 5: Mount Speakers in Enclosures

Picture of Mount Speakers in Enclosures

Pre-attach the internal cables to the speaker drivers before mounting the units in the enclosures. This minimizes the need to work in tight place! Remember to use the wood dowel (Step 2) to hold the backing nut whie tightening the machine screw with the Allen key.

Step 6: Sound

Picture of Sound

The speakers have a very clear, bright, detailed sound loud enough for a small room. Bass is decent too. I used a 100 WPC amp for the sound demo. The shielded drivers allow placement next to CRT's for those who still own them.


JCoffey (author)2009-07-23

Are these Tang Band speakers? Do you ahve a link as to where you got them?

You can also buy the same speakers at parts express!

pineapplenewton (author)2009-07-22

Just to let you know showing us a video that only includes the speakers playing music we can only tell how good our speakers sound or maybe how good your mike is.

Reality is always perceived.  Especially when processed through your brain,

Even more so when it is processed elsewhere.

Yes, I see.......

It kind of reminds me of an HDTV commercial.

I guess you'll have to come to Seattle for a listen!

regularityaudiolabs (author)2010-01-07

No ports, just a sealed tube.

supercrazytutorials (author)2010-01-02

did u do any holes  for the air to go out?

pdub77 (author)2009-07-29

The Mythbusters tested whether or not speakers can make you lose control of your bowels. They claim sound can't do that, but I don't think they saw this. ; )

I was waiting for an appropriate comment like this. The Mark I Super Psyllium Passivia Speakers don't sound like crap, but will help you do it!

Glad to help! =)

Good work. Just remember what I always say: a clean colon is a happy colon!

explosivemaker (author)2009-07-26

nice.....the plastic containers that frozen juice comes in would work good for slightly smaller ones.....

That's good! You can also get 1" or 2" full range speakers that would fit a smaller container. The container pretty much drives the design along with speaker availability. I also look for colorful or unusual labels.

....the ones we usually have around have a diameter of approx. 2 3/4".....a 2" one would fit pretty good....I guess if the labels weren't exciting enough, some high grit sanding and a cool spray paint job would do the trick....

codongolev (author)2009-07-25

can they hit the brown note?

555mst555 (author)2009-07-24

cool....u should try and make it double 2 speakers on one bottle.....then the connecting wire plug thing at the middle...

That's a great idea for a push-pull mini-subwoofer!

done. I had semi-broken computer speakers and I used a cookie tin to make them into a pair of portable speakers. (there was a 9-volt power supply in them, so I just cut it out and replaced it with a 9-volt battery.)

Sounds nice!

gummybear33 (author)2009-07-23

these are very nice speakers :)

Thank you for enjoying the instructable!!

mattyuke (author)2009-07-23

very good sound

Thank you! Positive comments related to this instructable are highly appreciated!!

Rotten194 (author)2009-07-22

You have lots of bottle of laxatives around the house? Should I ask?

Life's a blast with good speakers!!

lemonie (author)2009-07-21

How well do these operate in the infra-sound (sub 10Hz) range? L

dosadi (author)lemonie2009-07-21


You're not going to get anything useful below 100Hz from a 3" driver in a 2L enclosure. Sorry, but that's physics. Although the author doesn't state what the drivers are, I'm guessing from the appearance and stated price that these are HiVi B3N drivers, which have a frequency response of 100-7000Hz and a resonant frequency (Fs) of 77Hz.

For anyone interested in making these, here's a URL for the driver...

I personally prefer Tangband drivers over HiVi. For anyone willing to consider an alternative, these drivers have more high end response and are somewhat more efficient, but don't look as cool and aren't shielded...

Small full-range drivers like this are pretty easy to burn out. Been there, done that. If you use an amp rated over 20 watts per channel, be careful.

I believe HiVi merged with the Swans speaker company. I chose these drivers firstly for design aesthetic (fit, gold color (matches container label), no dust cap), secondly for shielding, and lastly for performance, although they have good performance criteria. See the link for product info and graphs. I sourced the speakers from Madisound. On aesthetics, I would have liked gold plated feet, but they were out of stock.

I thought those were B3Ns. Those anodized aluminium cones do look great. I never thought of Costco as a source of speaker parts. Although I did use wood bowls from Target as bases for one pair I built. How about a matching sub using a 5 gallon bucket? Here's a tip: instead of ordering poly fill from speaker vendors, just pick up polyester pillow stuffing from a fabric or craft store. I got mine at Walmart.

That's high end subwoofer territory! I have a Fostex personal monitor system that has a subwoofer and 2-15W satellite speakers. I replaced the speakers with the Passivia's. With a subwoofer, my speakers sound awesome!

Ward_Nox (author)2009-07-21

you know i kept a couple of game fuel empties thinking of doing somthing like this

Go for it! Check out Madisound they have a wide selection of speakers. They have always given me great service! I'm waiting for Costco to increase their "unit size" and will then develop a Mark II Passivia .

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