Step 2: Drill Lid Holes For Nipples, Attached Hex Nuts

Use a 1/4" metal drill bit to drill the holes in the lids and a 1/16" bit to drill 6 small holes around the lid to allow heat to escape from the jar. (I eyeballed the air holes, as no one would see them.) Next, insert the metal nipple through the hole leaving equal lengths on each side of the lid. Be careful, as the lids are very light gauge and razor sharp shards can cut fingers easily. I used a very fine metal sandpaper to remove the shards. Next, place a Hex nut on both sides of the lid and hand tighten before using a wrench to lock them into place.
<p>I don't see this in the pictures, but it's probably a good and safe idea to tie knots in the cables so that the weight of the jars don't put tension on the wires going into those grounding bars, and literally hang from those, that, or you could loop the wire trough a (metal, rubber) washer once (easier for adjusting the length of the wires if needed).. OR put a big zip-tie on it.. as long as there is slack between the cable going from the bars to the hole. </p>
Well written and nice pictures. I'm going to be doing this with wine bottles...I like the idea of using the grounding bar. Bravo! Wayne
Many thx. Let me know if you have any questions.
I love this and will be trying it! <br>
Did you start yet?
<p>How would you ground this light fixture? If the ceiling box is grounded and has a bare copper wire coming from it, where would you attach that wire to ground the fixture?</p>
I'm not an electrician. I grounded mine to the metal electrical box in the ceiling but again, I am NOT an electrician. Good luck with the project if you decide to build it!
<p>Hello all. I've been getting questions on my blog about materials for this project and will answer them in a collective form here. It's been awhile so I'm not sure where I purchased all of the materials but most came from Home Depot. </p><p>I did get some sockets from: <a href="http://www.hardwarestore.com/search.aspx?query=keyless-socket-626083" rel="nofollow"> http://www.hardwarestore.com/search.aspx?query=ke...</a></p><p>Also, some hardware (nipples, etc.) came from: <a href="http://www.hardwareandtools.com/crossbars-keys-nipples-and-reducers/" rel="nofollow"> http://www.hardwareandtools.com/crossbars-keys-ni...</a></p><p>The old fashion cords came from a guy on the Northside of Chicago however, I did get samples from this place: <a href="http://www.sundialwire.com/2-conductorwire-1.aspx" rel="nofollow"> http://www.sundialwire.com/2-conductorwire-1.aspx</a></p><p>Other helpful sites are as follows:</p><p><a href="http://www.wireityourself.com/" rel="nofollow">http://www.wireityourself.com/</a></p><p><a href="http://www.doityourself.com/forum/lighting-light-fixtures-ceiling-exhaust-fans-135/" rel="nofollow">http://www.doityourself.com/forum/lighting-light-f...</a></p><p>I hope this helps.</p><p>Happy building!</p>
<p>Gave this a shot. I made a bracket that made it float off the ceiling.</p>
<p>Could you tell me where you got the light parts that screw into the jars, please. I like the look. You did a great job.</p>
I actually purchased complete pendant light kits from Westinghouse. Home Depot and Lowes have bits and pieces you can put together on your own though.
<p>Thanks. Now to go out and get the supplies.</p>
https://youtu.be/qjif6rXol40 This is a link to the video of the build.
<p>Oh, now that is a nice job.. Kudos sir ;)</p>
<p>Looks fantastic!! Great job.</p>
http://youtu.be/qjif6rXol40 Here's a video of the process!
<p>Hi, I made this lamp, but the mason jars started to smell like amonia. Can you tell me if the ones you made smelled the same? I didnt make two small holes to let the heat go. But I dont know if is this the problem. Can you tell me what you think? Tips please!</p>
<p>nice work! Well done :)</p>
<p>Pborja: I believe I answered your question but please tell me if you require more info. B</p>
<p>Great 'ible! Now to figure out how to make a solar model to put out on a covered patio that has no wiring!</p>
Sounds like a great idea. Let's do it together. Virtually, of course.
I added a pic of what I plan on building but with added mason jars, I assume u would do the same thing with the grounding bars and lamp cords on this on top of the log, my question is how do u connect the grounding bars to the ceiling wire? We're building a cabin and I've wired all the lights but I've never seen a grounding bar and I'm quite confused on how it wires to the ceiling, your light is beautiful btw
That's really cool looking plan! The grounding bar (or Bus Bar) wires are gathered together (See Steps 6 &amp; 7) and then connected to the ceiling wiring. Please note: I am not an electrician. PLEASE BE SAFE. I had a certified electrician review my work before I installed it. I hope this helps.
Thank u so much for responding! I did find 2 bus boards at lowes but I did not see wires that came off of them to connect them to the ceiling. The lowes guy said 14 wire should work and to just connect the pos and neg one to each board and likewise to the ceiling, I have 2 brothers who are electricians and can see what I've done after I complete it, they work tons of hours away from town and I hate bothering them so I'm doing as much as possible before I ask one to inspect. Just wondering tho because lowes has told me wrong before if 14 wire is a good choice
<p>i am going to make a chandelier similar to this and your instructions are so helpful, but i do have questions about the wiring. first, i want to use a plug in type instead of hard wiring. i assume the 2 wires you used for hard wiring could be used for the plug in wiring? also i am a bit confused about the ground bar. you used 9 terminal for 10 lights. does this mean the left over wire is what you used to hard wire? and could i then use those to for the plug in wiring? do those wires connect to the terminal at all and if so, how? thanks so much for information. i am loving your blog!</p>
<p>Teresa: if you would, email me and then we can get discuss. brucekatlin@mac.com</p>
<p>Made this for the dining room in my new home. Looks great! </p><p>Thanks for the excellent instructable.</p>
today me and my wife went to lowes and as always stopped to look for a ceiling fan or chandelier for the dining room. found a hanging light with lampshade on it and got us to coming up with designs of our own. one of which was mason jar chanelier. get home and find this instructable. well done and very informative! thank you and to all the commenters. how are they holding up and how is the heat from the lights? <br>
Glad to hear that you like the project. Since I posted this instructable I've increased wattage of half of the bulbs to 40w and have of course while hot to the touch if left on for a while, they have not overheated. Just make sure to drill the small air holes in the lids.<br><br>Bruce
I'm wondering how this would look if you covered the sides of the jars with torn tissue paper and applied it with Vano Liquid starch. The bottoms would be clear to direct the light downward, but the tissue paper would add color to the fixture.
I'm going to make one for my dining room. Great instructions, TY !!
Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
these look great!! Great idea too! Would drilling a couple holes in each lid keep condensation down? Id like to use 40 watt bulbs in two or three four jar lamps over our center island...
I am going to make a 4 lamp chandelier to go over my sink. There is no junction box to tie into so it will be corded, do you have any suggestions on how to do this safely? Thank you, your chandelier is brilliantly made and helped me design mine.
so it will be more like a swag ...? it will just hang from the ceiling and the wires will run down the wall to an outlet which youll plug the lamp into correct? if so, you can buy some chain, the thin stuff they use on some lights that hand from a ceiling... then get a colored cord to match the chains color, weave the cord through the chain from floor to lamp. it wont be the best looking thing but it will work. or use that &quot;outside the wall&quot; channel that goes over the wires so you dont see them then run the wires into the wall and fish them over to the closest outlet or switch to power them. Good luck!
There are a couple of options but as I mentioned several times in the instructions and in comments below, make safety first and consult an electrician if you're not confident about electrical connections. <br> <br>You can purchase individual lamp cord kits. The ones that IKEA sells are very popular. You can either connect them to a power strip or cut the plug ends off, piggy-back them into one cord. The instructions that this designer used will help you: http://www.sproutingoff.com/?p=206 <br> <br>Good luck and let me know how it works out.
great instructable! I love the lights, I have been looking for something like this! <br>
This is really beautiful. Thanks for sharing your project!
To expand on strehlow's comments; <br> <br>Cast about for a electrical product called a terminal block. Radio Shack probably has them, and many places on line. They come in sizes from one wire to dozens. They insulate the connections and cover some of them cover the connections to prevent accidental shocks. <br> <br>They look as professional as bus bars, if not moreso. I do like that repurposed bus bars by the way, they certainly are handy. <br> <br>Find nylon washer and bolts, if nothing else, to raise and insulate your bus bars. Available at hardware stores that have the whole aisle of nuts/bolts/fasteners/wingthingies. <br> <br>That said, VERY nice looking. Nice proportions. Really well done. <br> <br>Cheers, <br> <br>Fin <br>
If the bus bars are enclosed in the box, where is the potential for shock? <br> <br>Terminal blocks are used to connect 2 wires unless a jumper strip is used. <br> <br>The lamp cord should have only enough insulation removed to expose approx. <br>1/4&quot; of wire exposed. Electrical tape is only a band aid. <br> <br>I do like the lamp. <br> <br>Joe
Joe: Thanks for your comments. I used the electrical tape as mentioned in the how-to steps to prevent the nylon cord from fraying. Additionally, I originally planned on &quot;piggy-backing&quot; the wires but decided on the bus bars as better.
Addressing Fin and Strehlow's most excellent comments, please see my reply: <br> <br>Safety was my number one concern when building this project. (Electricity scares me). As I wrote in the introduction to the project, I consulted an electrician, as I am not one. Strehlow's comment is correct that, the wired socket pictured is incorrectly wired, (I would have replaced the photos if, I had taken them) I did wire all ten correctly as noted. <br> <br>Regarding the bus bars being attached directly to the wood: the ceiling is 4' sealed concrete. There are no water sources above however, I agree that the bus bars be place &quot;inside a plastic or metal box within the wooden one&quot; or use Fin's suggestion of using nylon washers to raise the bus bar from off the wood. <br> <br>Lastly, the screws that attached the sides of the wooden box are accessible, as I puttied them lightly enough for easy location. <br> <br>Thank you to both Fin and Strehlow for their helpful comments.
Good timing I was just thinking about building one of these myself. The only thing I was going to do different is drill holes around the lid to let heat escape. Do you notice the jars getting very hot? <br>
Yellow: I tested the jars for heat using several different size bulbs prior to construction and found that 40 watt bulbs created condensation. I tired 25 watt bulbs and used a 1/16&quot; bit to drill 6 small holes around the lid to allow heat to escape from the jar. See step 2.) I had the lights on for 6 hours yesterday, turned to full power (they're on a dimmer) and the jars were moderately warm. Please let me know if you have any other questions and how your project works out.
Very nice. <br>Just a thought, but tinning the ends of the wire will keep it from fraying and give better electrical connections.
This is pretty nice. I have a few safety points though. <br> <br>When placing the wires on the terminals in the sockets, always go around the screw clockwise. This is so the wire gets wrapped tighter as you tighten the screw. On yours, the wire is being pushed out from under the screw head as it is tightened. <br> <br>Since the socket is hanging from the wire, it must have a strain relief. Typically this would be an &quot;underwriter's knot.&quot; Another knot must be at the top. Do not rely on the electrical connections to be structural. <br> <br>http://hope.edu/academic/engineering/labs/Electricity_Lab/Figures.html <br> <br>Dropping a ground wire which is attached to the nipple to support the weight would be better. This is especially important as if one of the socket wires do pull off, the metal ring holding the jar in place could be energized. <br> <br>Regarding the connections inside the box. The bus bars are fine for that but they cannot be attached directly to the wood. They must be on approved insulators. If water gets in there, the wood will become conductive and could start burning or be a shock hazard. And wood is not an approved electrical box. The connections should be inside a plastic or metal box within the wooden one. <br> <br>A better solution would be to use crimp connectors to gather up all the wires down to a set of pigtails to connect to the in-wall wiring. That would probably be a bit cheaper than the grounding rails too. <br> <br>The polarity must be maintained too. Yes, it is AC, but the two wires coming out of the box in the ceiling are not equal. The white one is grounded and the black or red is hot. The white wires must connect to the outside of the lamp sockets and the hot wire to the center terminal. This is so if someone changes a bulb with the power on, they don't get shocked touching the base of the bulb. <br> <br>Finally, the box needs to be accessible. The screws cannot be puttied over. Any point where wires have connections must have an access point. So some other hanging approach would be preferred. A simple approach is to use another nipple protruding through the center that is attached to the ceiling with a flange, and then have a decorative cap nut to hold the box to the ceiling.
This is great! I may use your wiring technique to convert a few old bike rims into a chandelier.
That sounds like a great idea. Please share it with me when you complete it.
Very pretty! I've been wanting to do something like this for years. :D
Thank you Jessy. If you decide to build one, let me know if you have any questions and hopefully I'll be able to help.

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Bio: As an Artist, Author, Coach, I live, work and play in the southwestern mountains of the United States. Through painting, drawing, printing, carving, writing, performing ... More »
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