While my old workbench's used to be setup to my liking, as most garage enthusiast knows there is always room for improvement. My current setup was not efficient and wasted much needed space. Which is why I decided to remodel my workbench to maximize my space hopefully this can give some insight and ideas for your own workbench.
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Signing UpStep 1: Design/Things to consider
Being only 18 I don't have alot of money so that played a big roll on how I designed my new workbench you could always go cheaper or more elaborate depending on your budget.
Being as I do a mixture of things in my workshop primarily woodworking/engine work I need to design my workbench to accommodate those needs. By following these simple steps you will be able to make a workbench devoted to your needs.
1.Know what works and what dosent.
2.What can be improved i.e Storage etc.
3.What type of projects do I do on my workbench.
4.How big/small do you need it.
5.Special features you want.
By asking my self these questions I came up with this.
1.My height of the left bench was perfect seeing as im 6'3. I need my toolbox close to the workbench. What didn't work was having the two workbenches split and having a bench top drill press taking up space.
2.I needed more worktop space and tons more storage. By separating my tool chest in two sections I can have one solid workbench.
3.I mainly do engine work/electronics on my workbench so I had no need for a woodworking vise etc
4.I wanted the whole wall one solid workbench and a taller then a average workbench.
5.Pegboard above one side and shelves below for storing parts during tear downs.
Being as I do a mixture of things in my workshop primarily woodworking/engine work I need to design my workbench to accommodate those needs. By following these simple steps you will be able to make a workbench devoted to your needs.
1.Know what works and what dosent.
2.What can be improved i.e Storage etc.
3.What type of projects do I do on my workbench.
4.How big/small do you need it.
5.Special features you want.
By asking my self these questions I came up with this.
1.My height of the left bench was perfect seeing as im 6'3. I need my toolbox close to the workbench. What didn't work was having the two workbenches split and having a bench top drill press taking up space.
2.I needed more worktop space and tons more storage. By separating my tool chest in two sections I can have one solid workbench.
3.I mainly do engine work/electronics on my workbench so I had no need for a woodworking vise etc
4.I wanted the whole wall one solid workbench and a taller then a average workbench.
5.Pegboard above one side and shelves below for storing parts during tear downs.
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Instead of hooks I use 3" nails driven in to custom fit where I want.
Screwdrivers go into a 2x4 screwed to the base of the plywood with 3/4" holes spaced along the center of the 4" side.
And, there's even workshop-art !!
I don't know all the proper terms because I've never done this before so I will try to describe it as best as I see it.
When you did the ledgers on the wall first (back pieces of wood) You said you secured them using lag bolts INTO the studs in the wall? Is that correct?
Once you hung the back part of the ledgers did you then build off of those via in the air? Or did you cut everything and build it on the floor so to speak and then bolt it onto the rear ledgers?
In a couple pictures below the ledger's on the wall it looks like it's one continious piece for the front of the work bench... is that one long piece of wood or is it mulitple pieces? Mainly Picture 7 is what I am looking at but not the top of the work bench the 4x4 that is facing us that goes the entire lenght just like the top of the work bench.
In step 5 when you create the shelf, I can see you cut out the corners but in doing so how does one fit the shelf into the opening since it looks like it would not fit in through the top how do you fit the shelf in so that you can bolt it in?
Sorry for all the questions, but your work bench looks robust and has storage underneith which is exactly what I am looking to do!
Thanks,
-Nigel
I used 5 inch lag bolts into each stud of my wall for all the ledgers.
Once I hung the ledgers I made the basic frame for the bottom and secured it to the legs before doing the top, building it all off the ledgers in the air.
The front piece is a solid 2x4 all one piece its about 16 ft long.
When you put the ply in for the shelves simply just put one corner of it on the bottom of the shelf and the other corner in the top corner and it will allow it to slide in at a angle and drop down.
Ask all the questions you need to Im glad my design could help you you I would love to see pictures of it when you are done!
In step 4 for the lower part of the shelves. I can see you have the piece of wood that is directly in the middle which looks like a brace for the lower shelf. How did you bolt that into the back of the ledger? Did you get a bolt and run it the entire length of the board if so where do you get a bolt that long???
On the same piece of wood I don't see how you secured it to the lower horizontal piece of wood that is attached the two legs. IE: I don' t see any holes or screws in the horizontal piece of wood that is attached to the center.
Sorry if those questions sound silly, I'm just trying to visualize this whole thing... I am probably making it much harder than what it is..lol
Thanks again,
-Nigel
And your questions are fine that's what instructables is for to help learn and make new things so ask away!
Electronics doesn't mix very well with anything else. It pretty much needs its own dedicated area. I tried to go convertible here it sucked. I setup a spot for it and I'm happy.
My electronics pit:
http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/8241/newdeskcorner.jpg
http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/4485/electronicstools.jpg
Woodworking can be helpful with just about every activity if you use your imagination. I've made a few wooden cases for some of my electronics projects. Sometimes being able to make a needed box is handy. Even for things like mechanical tear downs. My shop boxes aren't fancy but they are always just the size I want.
More of my garage workshop can be seen here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHuO08rYiAE
Peace
http://saints-creations.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/2011-01-05-17.25.34_Judsonia_Arkansas_US.jpg
and build shelves big enough I could get the big plastic tubs etc. you have onto them. I'd take the shelves you have and probably put them right onto your workbench. I think they'd be more useful there. Then I'd make a utility cart with lots of tools on it so I could stay on a roll so to speak. You know, moving around on all that nice clear floorspace?
I think what I'm trying to say here is you need to go vertical in your shop. Onward and upward! A little consolidation wouldn't hurt either.
One thing that I have adopted is a two piece bench top. Not necessarily for everybody but since I do everything from soldering and carb rebuilds to modeling and metal fabricating I need something tough but smooth and replaceable.
I use a 3/4" OSB base layer with an extra 4" layer around the perimeter and then screw a layer of 3/4" Melamine on top from underneath. I have a 1 1/4"x2 1/4" front lip that's made of white oak that was salvaged from a double sized pallet stringer and planed smooth. The front lip is mounted to the Melamine / OSB sandwich with countersunk barrel bolts so that it can be replaced without destroying everything else.
The Melamine isn't well suited to blacksmithing work but it is a nice smooth surface to work off of, dimensionally stable, cheap and easy to clean. Sealing the edges is important because it will expand and distort pretty horribly at the first sign of moisture intrusion.
Another help has been arranging bench tops so that they are at the same level as other work and tool surfaces. This allows over-sized projects and components to be supported without having to rearrange the entire shop or come up with auxillary supports or feed tables.