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Mead is a wonderful summer drink, its very easy to make and there are lots of recipes on the internet. I'm going to take you through a basic recipe, with a little added Science! to help you understand why your doing things. Hopefully with your new knowledge you'll be making wonderful mead, trying different recipes and even making your own recipes.

Step 1: Equipment and Ingredients

For a basic 4.5l (English gallon)

Equipment

  • Fermentation vessel- a glass or plastic demijohn, you could even use a gallon mineral water bottle with a hole drilled in the top for the airlock (they're around £1.50)
  • Airlock
  • Funnel
  • Siphon (or plastic tubing)
  • Bottles-screw top, cork or cap.

Ingredients

  • Honey 3 pounds- The variety isn't crucial, I don't think commercial mead makers use specific blossom honey
  • Water- some would suggest mineral water, as it doesn't contain chlorine, which could add an off taste (you could also use the bottle it came in as your fermentation vessel)
  • Yeast-a general or white wine yeast
  • Citric acid- Either lemons x2 or citric acid powder
  • Tannin- Not essential, adds a red wine texture, either tannin powder or a cup of strong tea
  • Campden tablets- Contain sulphide, which inhibits yeast growth, to help stop fermentation, in addition to the wine stabiliser
  • Bruclens powder-To form a sterilising solution, to clean equipment
  • Pectic Enzyme- To break down pectin (found in fruits) and clear haze
  • Yeast Nutrient- The building blocks of the yeasts enzymes, helps to ferment well, prevents stopping of formation prematurely
  • Wine stabiliser (Potassium sorbate)- To stabilise and inhibit further fermentation on bottling (which can be explosive!)

Step 2: Getting Started

First clean all equipment as per your sterilising powders instructions. This is crucial otherwise you could contaminate the mead and grow nasties.

Add the honey(see next page), the lemon juice or citric acid (see page after next), 1/4 teaspoon pectic enzyme, 1 teaspoon of yeast nutrient, the tea or tannin into the demijohn. Add water up to where the demijohn starts to narrow/get rounded, don't fill up higher than this or when fermentation starts the froth may overflow. See the 2nd and 3rd pictures, in the 3rd picture the one on the left is a little above where I'd fill up to. Sprinkle the yeast on top, I used a sachet of Wilko general wine yeast. Add the airlock and wait a couple of days till the bubbling settles, then top up/top off with water to the to bottom of the neck/narrow bit of the demijohn (just below the handles-as the one on the right in picture 3, or picture 4).

The fermentation should settle in a couple of weeks, this can be seen by air bubbles stopping coming out of the airlock. Leave the mead a couple of weeks, till the sediment starts to sink to the bottom and it looks clear.

Ideally you should siphon (or rack) the mead to another demijohn (or into something temporarily, then back into the same demijohn after washing out), leaving as much of the sediment behind as possible.

After this you can leave the mead a few weeks more to clear entirely, if sediment forms at the bottom, you can siphon to another container again, till no more sediment forms. You can use finings to speed up the process, but you want to age the mead anyway, so waiting to clear naturally isn't so bad.

After you happy its cleared, add 1 crushed campden tablet and the fermentation stopper as per its directions, which usually says leave for 3 days. If your happy to leave the mead dry or add more honey to sweeten, then bottle. You can use bottles with corks, caps or screw tops, even plastic screw top bottles, just make sure to sterilise them first.

Leave the mead for a few months ideally a year or two, it will improve over this time.

Here are a couple more recipes also, credit to creators:

Joe's Grape Mead

Joe's ancient orange mead

Jack Keller Mead (Mr Keller really knows his stuff)

Now onto the science!

Step 3: Honey and How Much?

People often talk about making sweeter mead by adding more honey, but the yeast would convert all the sugar into alcohol, unless you added so much honey that the yeast died of alcohol poisoning (ie at 16-19% abv) and couldn't convert the remaining sugar to alcohol. I feel its better to pick an abv (alcohol by volume) add enough sugar to achieve this, let if ferment, stabilise, then add sugar or honey at the end to sweeten to taste.

How much honey? well this depends of the abv (%alcohol) you want to achieve, you can use a hydrometer to help work this out. But the above chart tells you how much honey approximately per gallon (4.5l, UK gallon) will achieve the abv. This assuming the honey is around 76g of sugar per 100g honey. But remember there will be additional sugar if you add fruit or juice.

In context, beer and cider are generally 4-5% abv, wine 11-13% abv.

So typically most recipes will go for 2 or 3lbs, for simplicity (most honey is sold in 1lb or 454g jars). You could make weaker mead, but it probably would keep as well, the higher alcohol percentage helps prevent bacterial growth.

So on to acidity...

Step 4: Acidity

Acid is key in wine as it gives the wine body, it also affects the tannins, which give red wine their distinctive character. In Mead acidity is less of an issue in terms of taste (although some people will disagree), some recipes omit additional acid entirely. Although in melomels (mead with fruit) extra acid is supplied by the fruit.

The acidity dose still have an important role, if the must (the honey and water mixture) is too acidotic (low pH) then the yeasts, enzymes will denature (break down or change their shape, is your GCSE/high school biology and chemistry coming back to you?), so they won't work and won't produce any alcohol. If there isn't enough acid (high pH), then there is a risk of bacterial contaminates growing and spoiling the mead (they don't tent to grow well at lower pH). At very low levels of acid (high pH) the enzymes may also denature, but unless you add alkalising agents it is unlikely to occur.

In wine it is generally though the ideal pH (in terms of flavour, preservation) is around 3.5. I try to achieve this with mead. Most recipes will (hopefully) be balanced in their acidity and aim for around this.

In the prior recipe I used 2 lemons, which is approximately the equivalent of 2 teaspoons of citric acid. Although the acidity and size of the lemons can vary.

If your making your own recipe its could be useful to check the acidity, the most accurate way to do this would be by titration (seeing how much alkali solution it takes to neutralise the pH of the must) and there are kits available for this. I haven't done this as its yet more equipment and following a reliable recipe is usually close enough.

You can buy narrow range pH paper, to roughly check:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=ph+paper+3-5&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=ph+paper+0.5-5&_sacat=0

Is it getting hot in here or are we just going to look at temperature...

Step 5: Temperature

Temperature affects the rate of activity of the enzymes of the yeast, too low and fermentation will be very slow. Too high and the enzymes could denature and then there would be no more fermentation. At higher temperatures there could be a greater chance of bacterial growth.

The graph shows the rate of fermentation of Gervin EC-1118 (wilko universal wine yeast in the UK), at different temperatures. This shows the greater rate of fermentation at higher temperatures, but unless it's very cold, the yeast will ferment all the sugar to alcohol eventually. So it's probably ok not to worry too much about the temperature, unless there's icicles in your hallway.

Finally what about the yeast...

Step 6: Yeast

I've looked for a 'mead yeast' and haven't found one, if you know of one please let me know in the comments. So generally people seem to use wine yeast (usually white wine), cider or beer yeast or bread yeast.

I've seen on lots of forums people using bread yeast and reporting good results. Some people feel using bread yeast isn't a good idea as it can make the mead taste bready. Not being selected for making alcohol, its hard to know how much alcohol the yeast could produce/tolerate before denaturing, so the fermentation could stop prematurely or produce funny tastes.

I tend to use white wine or champagne yeast for mead.

Why do yeast produce alcohol? I hear you ask (ok I know you didn't, but humour me, I'm nearly done).

Like many organisms yeast utilise sugar to create energy, via aerobic respiration (uses oxygen to break down to release energy). But in the closed fermentation vessel, the oxygen is used up so the yeast utilise fermentation, which doesn't require oxygen (its anaerobic).

The picture illustrates the basics of the reaction; the enzymes in the yeast breaking down the sugar to pyruvate then to ethanol (the alcohol we want) and carbon dioxide, which is why gas bubbles out of the demijohn.

Step 7: That's All for Now

Hope that didn't bring back too many bad (high)school memories.

Thanks for reading, any thoughts let me know, please be kind this is my first Instructable.

Oh yes, and I'm entering the Made By Bees Contest, so I'd be very grateful if you'd vote for me.

For further reading on wine making have a look at Jack Keller's wine blog, there's lots of reading

Jack Keller Wine Blog

Or this book is quite good if your starting making wine

First Steps in Wine Making: C J Berry

Bye for now,

Mark.

<p>How far/how much space should be left for the bubbles during the first fermentation? Im looking at doing this with some gallon glass jugs I have and dont want them to overflow</p>
<p>In an English Gallon jug (about 4.5 litres, vs American gallon 3.8 litres) i'd leave about 300-500ml of space (ie fill it up to 4litres). I'd fill up to where the bottle rounds off, that's a little below the fill level of the demijohn on the left of the picture below.</p><p><a href="https://cdn.instructables.com/FX6/LEWI/HX6YDKY5/FX6LEWIHX6YDKY5.LARGE.jpg" rel="nofollow"></a></p><p>Must's (the fluid your fermenting) that have more sediment/pulp/protein (and possibly higher Sg) seem to foam up more and more likely to overflow in my experience.</p><p>If it does flow up into the airlock, just clean it out and either remove a bit more fluid or reduce the temperature (to make the fermentation slower, which should reduce risk of overflowing).</p><p>Some people would advocate not using an airlock early on and covering with gauze or cotton wool (with some form of lid), the airflow out should be sufficient to stop overflow. But there is an increased risk of bacteria or insects getting in.</p><p>Hope that helps</p>
Thanks
all bottled up. used milk for attaching labels so lets see how that turns out.
just transferred it to a 2nd bottle to let it sit and calm down before actual bottling. thank you it already tastes fairly good.
Excellent job.<br>People are pointing out the use of chemicals being bad... and in my opinion they do affect the taste. People have been getting drunk for centuries by just mixing honey and water and fruit in a barrel. Of course the average life expectancy then was 30. What you've posted here is the proper, safest way to brew production mead. The type that would pass FDA inspection. Thanks.
<p>Good instructable, I like your writing style. I've been wanting to make mead for ages, and i think i will finally get off my ass and do it.</p>
<p>One quick question, you say &quot;then top up the bottom of the narrow bit of the demijohn&quot;, and i am not sure what this means in context (&quot;top up&quot; is not a term i am familiar with)</p>
<p>I mean add additional water, if you look at the picture the one on the left, it about where I'd start (although possibly a little lower), then the one on the right is topped up/topped off to where the demijohn narrows, just below the handles. I've put the picture in the page also.</p><p>(Is topped up British phrase?)</p>
<p>Thanks, that's helpful. </p><p>It might be British, though i might also just be an idiot ^_^</p>
<p>Nope, we use it all the time just down the coast here in L.A.! :)</p>
<p>Once its settles down from fermenting a few days, TOP OFF the narrow bit of the fermenting vessel. When it starts off it needs a bit of oxygen to get started, once the yeast has multiplied out, you want to completely starve it of oxygen so topping it off will replace the volume of air with a volume of liquid to be fermented.</p>
<p>Great instructable.</p><p>I made mead a few times in collage &amp; it was lovely. Necessary or not, we boiled our honey/water mixture to ensure it was sterile before fermenting it. This lead to two discoveries:</p><p>Firstly, if you add spices while you heat the honey you get a beautiful spiced mead (a few cinnamon sticks works fabulously). Well worth a try.</p><p>Secondly, if you do this boiling thing then warm the demijohn before you add the boiling honey mixture! I managed to crack off a perfect glass Frisbee from the bottom of our un-warmed demijohn and although 3 pounds of boiling spiced honey on the kitchen floor will make it smell fantastic, it's the devil's own job to clean up!</p><p>Ugi</p>
<p>I would say there is a third lesson in there. Don't fill your demijohn on the floor, keep it in the sink or even better in a clean bucket large enough. That way if the worst happen and your demijohn cracks you can still salvage the must. I too have had broken demijohns with the result of unplanned kitchen floor cleaning.</p>
<p>Good point Groover!</p><p>The Demijohn wasn't actually on the floor, but it was on the counter and gravity is never your friend in such circumstances! In the sink or some sort of clean plastic bowl would be a very sensible plan! </p>
<p>I think I'll give the cinnamon a go. I think some people do boil the honey to sterilised, but most honey from shops is pasteurised so shouldn't need. I've heard boiling it can help remove some of the protein and sediment, so may make it easier to clear. But I'd worry about shattered bottles too.</p><p>I'm glad its not just me who manages to make a mess with homebrew, the bottling usually results in a wet floor.</p>
<p>Far too many chemicals for my taste (and totally unnecessary IMHO too). As for the yeast, Wyeast does two or three mead yeasts. I tried the dry one (you would not believe the trouble I had getting it shipped to the UK LOL) but didn't think much of it at all. It's a live culture so new home-brewers may not be familiar with the process if they have only worked with the sachets before. </p><p>My yeast of choice for mead is Lalvin E1118, it's a champagne yeast and has a very high alcohol tolerance if you want to go that high, but it makes a truly fantastic sack mead, and works <em>very</em> well for Metheglin, and Melomel too.</p>
<p>I'm grateful for your thoughts and as I said to <a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/MorNiLachnan/" rel="nofollow"><strong>MorNiLachnan</strong></a>, I agree only the honey, water and yeast as essential (unless you want to back sweeten). I don't use finings or filtering as I don't think they're necessary and could affect the flavour.</p><p>Any thoughts on bottling- corks, crown caps, screw tops? Glass or plastic?</p>
<p>The list of chemical additives are usually not necessary to make a successful mead. Honey is far less touchy than fruits when fermenting. Been making mead for over 20 years and never used chemicals. Also never had a batch go bad. Make sure you are using good minimally processed honey and boil the water &amp; honey together. </p>
<p>I'm grateful to have the thoughts of people more experienced than myself. I suppose you don't really need the yeast nutrient, and if not sweetening, the campden or wine stabiliser. I felt that adding them, was likely to help avoid problems (such as contamination by nasty's such as mycoderma-which consume the alcohol, ruining the mead). But your experience suggests that's not necessary.</p><p>Why do you boil the honey and water? I felt if the honey was pasteurised, it didn't need boiling, from a sterilising point of view. </p><p>Do you think boiling changes the flavour of the mead?</p>
<p>Great Instructable, How long did you let it age?</p>
<p>I always age my mead at least two years, it seems a long time compared to to most wine home-brewing, and insane compared to beer home-brewing, but the wait really is well and truly worth it.</p>
<p>Thank you, I'd say at least a few months. I think most homebrew improves with ageing, even cider, it settles down the sharpness and the flavour balances our. I've read mead is best aged for 3 years, I've tried some commercial mead aged for 3 years and it was wonderful. Although I've never managed to keep any for 3 years myself. I don't know how much better 3 years is compared to 2 or 1 year, though and I think it would be difficult to do a comparison.</p><p>I'm trying to age some, try a bottle at a few months, then try at later stages to see how it changes.</p>
<p>Is it just me, or is there something missing here? I can't seem to find where you add the yeast, or how much you add. I'm guessing it's the last thing before the airlock.</p>
<p>It appears I didn't mention that, I've added that. Wilko sell yeast in individual sachets. Or you can buy yeast in 100g tubs and the tub will have instructions on how much to use per gallon. </p>
<p>Campden tabs are not for inhibiting yeast growth, unless you mean wild yeasts. Commercial wine yeasts will make bottle bombs of your mead if its still sweet and you relied on them to stop the yeasts. You want Campden tabs or potassium metabisulfate for inhibiting growth of OTHER critters, and you want potassium sorbate to inhibit the yeast and stop fermentation. </p>
<p>Sorry about that, your right, fermentation stopper/wine stabiliser is potassium sorbate. Not sure why I wrote that, must have had a moment of brain failure, I have amended the list.</p>
<p>sorry, metabisulfite, not metabisulfate. Also. You have the same chem listed twice, as sodium or potassium metabisulfite is what Campden tablets are made from. I would suggest 1/4 teaspoon of potassium metabisulfite per gallon Plus potassium sorbate as instructed on labeling before bottling. Both readily available from brewshops. </p>
<p>Here's a link that explains better than i do. http://winemakersacademy.com/potassium-sorbate-wine-making/</p>
<p>I love Mead! I can't believe how many people have not tried nor heard of it. Great Instructable!</p>
Wyeast produces two strains, 4184 Sweet Mead / 4632 Dry Mead. I don't know the availability outside the US. I've also read quite a few books and forums suggest using a champagne yeast because it ferments quickly and to high alcohol level.
<p>The champagne yeast is nice because it helps with carbonation and mead is usually a bit flat, and as you said it helps to make a nice dry high ABV level. </p>

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