Mechanical Dry Erase Board

Step 2 Get your materials. There are alot needed.

Dry erase board (framed). Whatever size you want.

Two wooden planks 4 inches by X. (X represents any number that is about 8 inches larger than the width of your board) by 1 inch.

2 3/4 inch wooden dowels.(length dependent on size of board add 6 inches to the lenght to accomodate the Y component)

2 1 inch wooden dowels.(length dependent on size of board)

6 three 1/4 inch screws with bolts.

8, 3/4 inch PVC pipe T connectors.

4, 1 inch PVC pipe T connectors.

2 3/4 inch PVC pipe connectors.

4 1 inch PVC pipe connectors.

4 X foot alluminum channels. (length dependent on size of board, you will need two for the X, and two for the Y)

2 X foot steel crossbeams.(more so for design than functionality... but it added some support.)

A bunch of different sized screws, depending on the boards size...

Carbide Bit along with othe sized regular drilling bits.

Spade drill set (depending on the size of the motor you use)

Screwdrivers.

Wallpowered drill... you can use battery powered... but I just hate anything that is battery powered.

Spray Paint.(decoration)

Wire hiders.(decoration)

Gears: The best website I found for gears and such is https://sdp-si.com/eStore/

This website is unbelievable! If you have any gear or shaft related questions, they place you on the phone with an engineer!

When ordering sprocket gears, stick to metal... I used plastic, they were not meant to be used with applied torque. Order metal gears, with a set screw spot and a hub. (without one you will get slippage.)

Get metallic spur gears with hubs that match the pitch of your selected chain.

The Chain: I purchased the chain from
https://sdp-si.com/eStore/

again... this site has everything!

Get a METATLLIC roller chain that matches the pitch of your gears.

The Motors: I used two brushed 12 volt DC motors. They worked... okay. But I used them for a big board. For a smaller board... they should be perfect... I programmed them to step, like a stepper motor, but they do not provide feedback such as position. To correct this, you could slap some encoders onto the motors and hook them into the controllers.

I bought my motors from:

http://www.anaheimautomation.com/Brush_DC_Motor.aspx

I got the:

BDR-36-57-12.0V-20600

22$ each. They really don't have great low end torque, so my best advice is to scrap these motors, and use Brushed DC Spur Gearmotors... They are pricier... but they will be much better for what you want in the long run. They provide up to 1100 oz of torque-inch! Not bad... but that number depends on the gear ratios. Get the Spur Gearmotors. Stay away from basic brushed DC.

http://www.anaheimautomation.com/Brush_DC_Spur_Gearmotors.aspx

The computer controls: My code is written for the amazing Phidgets! So use them, they are incredibly easy to use!

High current motor controller:

http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1064

Analog Joystick:

http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1113

Interface Kit:

http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1018

Servo Motor and Motor Controller:

http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=3000
http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1000

Each one of these comes with setup instructions.

Power: 12V Lawn Mower Battery. Excessive... but neccessary, I dont know why the two little DC motors were sucking so much amperage out of this battery... it does not make sense to me... what am I not understanding?

Speaker wire... or any wire. Speaker wire has a nice gauge, and is easy to work with/strip.

Putty Epoxy
Liquid mix Epoxy

Zip Ties.

Dry Erase Makers, Twisty Markers
http://shopping.yahoo.com/p:Crayola%20Twistables%20Markers:2003052101;_ylc=X3oDMTB0b3VnYm1hBF9TAzk2NjMyOTA3BHNlYwNmZWVkBHNsawNiZ3Qy

4 Roller Casters, that fit the width of the aluminum channel.

4 smaller wheels that fit the width of the aluminum channel.