Step 8Frame the dry erase board!
Use the diagram as your blueprint. I mounted the wooden planks on top of the board... you could do it behind it, but I liked the look. I fastened it down to the board using screws and bolts.
To drill through the board, you will need to use a carbide bit. I drilled through pretty slowly, and it turned out fine. Try to keep your rpm low so that you don't get hit with metal fragments.
Onto the horizontal rods (x bars) I mounted the aluminum channels and steel cross beams. The steel was more of an aesthetic approach, but added some stability as well.
Connect the 3/4 inch rod, with the two 3/4 T connectors, hammer them in, or sand them so that they have a nice snug fit. Make sure that the T connectors are inline with each other. Once this is done, mount the aluminum channels and steel cross beams. Screw them in on opposing ends; to fasten the middle use liquid epoxy.
Use a level to make the X bars, if they are not perfectly aligned, you will run into huge problems. Match the bars up, and make sure that they are mirror images of each other.
Once you have made sure that they are identical, mount one of them onto the middle of the bottom wooden plank. Do this by drilling through the middle of each T connector, and screwing them in with a long enough screw to pierce the plank.
At the end of each channel, slightly unscrew one of the screws, so that the Y component won't fly out of the channel.
Don't add the top x bar. Until you mount the Y component. That will be next.
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