Introduction: Medieval Leather Needle Case
Second Prize in the
Hand Tools Only Contest 2017
Just like my last leather tutorial, you will not need any of the fancy leather equipment for this project. This Instructables is designed to be completely created by hand tools that you should already have!
I've recently created a video for you guys, but I want to clarify that there is one small difference in how I stitch the circles on the ends.
This fun little project is quick and easy, let's get started!
Step 1: Materials
For this project you are going to need:
- Leather (Mine is about 2mm thick, .08 in, or 5 oz)
- Dowel/Pipe (I used dustpan handle with a diameter of 1.9 cm or .75 in)
- Utility Knife
- Waxed Thread
- Two Needles
- Sandpaper (Optional)
- Leather Polish (Optional)
*I used a dust pan handle to give shape to this case. If you don't have a similar sized cylinder then you will have to make adjustments in the dimensions, but don't worry the idea and instructions will be nearly the same!
Step 2: Dimensions
To create the case we need to cut six pieces of leather (all measurements are height x width):
- One Inner Tube: 7x8 cm (2.756x3.15 in)
- One Outer Tube: 8.5x6 cm (3.346x2.36 in)
- One Cap: 8.5x3 cm (3.346x1.18 in)
- Two Circles: 2.75 cm (1.08 in) diameter
- Drawstring: .25 cm (.098 in) in width, length of your choice
I highly recommend you make the width cuts a little bigger just to make sure that everything fits in the end. Once you have all your pieces check to see if they fit by wrapping the Inner Tube around the dowel and then the Outer Tube and the Cap on top. Make any adjustments now if you have to.
Once you have cut out the Outer Tube and Cap we need to make slits in them for our Drawstring. Measure halfway up the heights of the Outer Tube and Cap and mark .25 cm (.098 in) above and below. Now move towards the center 2.0625 cm (.812 in) and mark a line .75 cm (.295 in) to the left and a line .75 cm .75cm (.295 in) to the right. You should have four lines on both the Outer Tube and Cap; cut along these lines. If this was confusing you can look at the picture above but keep in mind that the photo is rotated so that the heights are horizontal and the widths vertical. Please ask me any questions you might have!
Step 3: Holes
We're going to start off with the Cap and one of the Circles. Take your ruler and line it up along one of the width edges. Take a needle and mark .25 cm (.098 in) from the end (about 2 mm (.08 in) away from the edge) and then .5 cm (.197 in) until you reach the end. This should make the last needle point .25cm (.098 in) from the end. Now line up the ruler with both height edges and mark every .5 cm (.197 in) starting with the first and last marks along the width. Now take the Circle A and place it along the marked width of the Cap. Slowly role Circle A along the edge and mark Circle A every time it lines up with one of the needle marks on the Cap. Don't worry if the holes don't exactly line up but make sure you have the same amount on the circle and the width of the Cap. Take your nail and hammer through these marks.
We are going to repeat this process with the the Outer Tube and Circle B. Start off marking the width and heights of the Outer Tube just as we did with the Cap. Because the Outer Tube and the Cap are the same width, this means that both Circles will have the same amount of holes. So to make our lives easier take Circle A, place it on top of Circle B, and mark it using the holes we already created. Using your nail and hammer, puncture the marks on the Cap and Outer Tube.
We only want the Outer Tube and Circle B to be stitched together so when we stitch the Outer Tube and the Inner Tube together we want the Inner Tube offset higher. Place your Inner Tube flush with the bottom of the Outer Tube and then raise it .25 cm (.098 in) (you should be able to see the marks along the width of the Outer Tube). Now keeping this offset tightly wrap the two pieces together around the dowel. The height edges of the two tubes should now be flush. Using a needle mark the Inner Tube through the holes of the Outer Tube. This will ensure that the holes will line up when we stitch the two pieces together. Now finish marking the height edges of the Inner Tube every .5 cm (.197 in) until you reach the last point which should be .25 cm (.098 in) from the end. If you notice in the picture above, I forgot to do this last step before taking the photo.
Step 4: Forming
Soak your Cap and Inner Tube in hot water for about 30 seconds and dry off access water. Tightly wrap the Inner Tube around the dowel and then wrap the Cap around the Inner Tube. You can secure this with the drawstring. Leave for about an hour. This will help the leather want to stay in shape but still be flexible as we stitch.
Step 5: Stitching
Before you begin stitching take your draw string and pull it through the Outer Tube and Cap.
Take 90 cm (35.5 in) of thread (we will use this to stitch the entire bottom portion) and attach one end to the first needle and the other end to the second needle. Pierce the thread on each end to lock it in place. Now begin on one end of the Outer Tube's width. Pass the needle through Circle B and begin double stitching around until you've gone around the entire circle and have finished where you started. When doing so the double stitch pattern should appear on the outside of the Outer Tube of Circle B. If done correctly both the the threads should going into the tube when you finish. For information on piercing the thread and double stitching check out this awesome source: https://makezine.com/2017/01/23/handstitch-leather...
Now you can begin stitching the Inner and Outer Tube. Slide the Inner Tube inside the Outer Tube and align the holes. Now work your way up using an alternating cross stitch (I don't believe this is the right term, is someone knows it please correct me); one cross stitch visible on the outside, the next hidden inside the tube. Once you reach the top of the Outer Tube finish with a horizontal stitch. Now with both threads inside the Inner Tube we finish with more alternating cross stitches and one last horizontal stitch. Tightly knot off the thread and cut.
Using 75 cm (30 in) of thread we now do the exact same thing for the Cap. Double stitch around Circle A and use alternating cross stitches down the height edge. Again the double stitching around the perimeter of Circle A and the Cap should both appear on the outside. Finish with a knot and cut.
Step 6: Final Touch Ups
At this point you can sand down any rough edges and apply a burnish or polish. I personally prefer the raw look so I like to leave it as is. If you want the Inner Tube to hold its shape more, then you can submerge the part above the Outer Tube in hot water for 30 minutes (or until its fully saturated) and then slide it over the dowel and let it dry for a day or two.
I hope you guys enjoyed this Instructables and as always please leave any feedback in the comments! I know this one can be a bit confusing so don't hesitate to ask any questions. Please leave photos and videos below!
If you liked this project maybe you'll like my other leather Instructables:
Beetle Bag: https://www.instructables.com/id/The-Beetle-Bag/
Pinwheel Coin Purse: https://www.instructables.com/id/Pinwheel-Coin-Pou...
Passport Cover: https://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Leather-Pass...
cynnel made it!
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