The more rigid self supporting version better suits serious use, as it can better null offending local noise or stations and even DF (direction find) when rotated towards remote signals.The weak signal enhancing performance (especially on classic 'deaf' AM radios) of either type has been found ABSOLUTELY OUTSTANDING - signals just leap off the bench!
As they can be built much cheaper (& faster) than traditional tediously wound & mounted loop antenna,this approach suits tight budgets,educational resonance demonstrations,remote weather forecast needs & travellers unable to erect a long wire outdoor antenna.
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"After doing the math with MATLAB i found that antenna is resonating @1kHz-6kHz gap " is unclear - just what did you mean ? Stan.
FL Bill
2011 UPDATE: Home wireless technologies have made classic 50' (15m) 4 wire phone cord caddies almost redundant. The 4 wire loop version shown at step 5 may hence have increasing appeal as the cabling will be very cheap/free. It'll be of course easier to connect too, & as the larger loop intercepts more wave front it may even have better performance. Stan ( ZL2APS)
A little shrink tubing added before soldering might hold the loop for constant size.
A trimmer capacitor might hold the loop on frequency for a single station.
Ground and signal on either side of the cap?
Or should I omit ground as I want the signal to resonate in the LC and ground would only leak the signal away.
I've only ever done this before with long wire antennas.
I might test this out later today and see what happens...
I built this last night out of 2 lengths of the standard US 4-strand cable.I laid out a 10' piece of masking tape (sticky side up) and carefully placed the cables side by side. I then folded the tape over and sealed it up.
It's quite flexible and will spool up when not in use.
Thanks for finally explaining what all the trimmers do on a radio cap!