YOU CAN CAST ACCURATE TIN REPLICAS OF OBJECTS USING SUGRU
Please vote! vote! vote! vote! vote! Do it! :) (This is in a contest, you know! :D)
Make sure to check out my blog!
Not to long ago, I started my ventures into metal casting. My early molds were made of plaster, but I quickly learned that silicone epoxy makes GREAT metal casting molds. Unfortunately, the silicone epoxy I was using was not designed for casting metal, and was too soft and flexible. My early silicone molds were not tough enough for lots of repeated use.
But Sugru, on the other hand, is a very durable silicone mold making material. It makes molds just as good as the silicone epoxy I used previously, except Sugru is WAY more durable, and will make molds that will last dozens of casts.
The cast quality of this skull isn't quite exactly what I'm after, but I was in a hurry. Molds need to be broken in before they with make great casts, so the first, second, or even third castings may have bubbles or vacancies. The skull in the main picture is the second cast. You shoulda seen the first one ;)
Ok, this goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway)...
Casting metal involves the use of butane torches. Butane torches have fire. Fire can burn you. So can hot metal. Got it?
If you want to cast high temp metals, just use the sugru molds for wax, then use the lost wax casting process.
There are several people in the comments arguing about fumes. They have not actually done this instructable, so they wouldn't know. Anyway, if you use solid lead free solder, there will not be any fumes. I know this from experience. Please, though, trust your own judgement and use common sense!
Please vote! vote! vote! vote! vote! Do it! :) (This is in a contest, you know! :D)
Make sure to check out my blog!
Not to long ago, I started my ventures into metal casting. My early molds were made of plaster, but I quickly learned that silicone epoxy makes GREAT metal casting molds. Unfortunately, the silicone epoxy I was using was not designed for casting metal, and was too soft and flexible. My early silicone molds were not tough enough for lots of repeated use.
But Sugru, on the other hand, is a very durable silicone mold making material. It makes molds just as good as the silicone epoxy I used previously, except Sugru is WAY more durable, and will make molds that will last dozens of casts.
The cast quality of this skull isn't quite exactly what I'm after, but I was in a hurry. Molds need to be broken in before they with make great casts, so the first, second, or even third castings may have bubbles or vacancies. The skull in the main picture is the second cast. You shoulda seen the first one ;)
Ok, this goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway)...
Casting metal involves the use of butane torches. Butane torches have fire. Fire can burn you. So can hot metal. Got it?
If you want to cast high temp metals, just use the sugru molds for wax, then use the lost wax casting process.
There are several people in the comments arguing about fumes. They have not actually done this instructable, so they wouldn't know. Anyway, if you use solid lead free solder, there will not be any fumes. I know this from experience. Please, though, trust your own judgement and use common sense!
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Signing UpStep 1: What You'll Need
You will need:
-Sugru!
-Object to make a mold of
-Mineral Oil
-Tin Solder (or lead*) Make sure it's not acid core. If you use acid core, you will generate hazardous fumes.
-Butane Torch
-Something to melt the metal in. I use a piece are firebrick carved into a bowl shape. You could make your own out of Plaster of Paris, or a copper pipe endcap. Do not use clay or ceramic.
-Mad Skillz
That's it!
*If you use lead, please make sure you are aware of the hazards. The MSDS for lead can be found here.
-Sugru!
-Object to make a mold of
-Mineral Oil
-Tin Solder (or lead*) Make sure it's not acid core. If you use acid core, you will generate hazardous fumes.
-Butane Torch
-Something to melt the metal in. I use a piece are firebrick carved into a bowl shape. You could make your own out of Plaster of Paris, or a copper pipe endcap. Do not use clay or ceramic.
-Mad Skillz
That's it!
*If you use lead, please make sure you are aware of the hazards. The MSDS for lead can be found here.
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An "iron bottom-pour casting ladle" is the best thing to use for this kind of work, but I just use a "4 inch cast iron DWV blind plug" as a crucible and ladle. I welded on steel rods for handles. DWV stands for "Drain Waste Vent". This kind of pipe is also sometimes called "Soil Pipe". Cast-iron DWV fittings are available at any hardware store. DWV fittings don't use threads. In the old days cast iron soil pipe was soldered together with big pools of lead. You can still find "plumbers ladles", which are perfect for tin. Also search for "cast-iron lead pots", "cast-iron lead dippers" and "bottom pour casting ladle".
It would also be very expensive.
As to concerns by folks about fumes, some are real and not immagined. The thing is for anyone do your homework on the materials you are using. Next there are Instructables that show how to build a power ventilated work area that address these very issues. If you have an old range hood vent these can easily be converted to provide a power ventilated work area. Remember, "Nothing, is not impossible... Nothing, just takes longer to accomplish." Keep up the good work!
This would not be suitable for food use.
A lot of my tools are handmade out of junk. It's sort of a fun challenge for me to figure out how to make a $20 set of tools out of junk or cheap parts instead of buying it :)
Anyway, here's a schematic of the clamp:
The brass rod is just soldered onto the end of the bolt, so I have some leverage.
You got my vote!
I actually used this to make a bat keyring for a friend of mine, if you live in Austin TX, who really enjoyed the 'Bridge bats'. :)
Winner in my opinion!
but anyway i am sure you would at least be a finalist
rated 5 stars