Step 5: Finishing Your Panel

You may notice once the panel is dry the engraved black areas look chalky or dull in appearance.
This can be fixed in one of two ways.
1) 3-in-one oil
2) Clear Coat Spray

It all depends on how you want to finish your panel.
I chose the first since the client did not want the panels clear coated but left raw.

You will want to follow the directions on the can of spray when clear coating a panel applying nice thin
layers holding the nozzle no closer than 10" from the material and spraying in nice even flowing strokes
from side to side.

When applying an oil coat put a dab of oil on each of the engraved areas (you can add more if needed).
Rub the oil into the metal and over the engraving. You will need to coat the entire front of the panel with
the oil since this process will most likely change the appearance of the metal to look more like a light
gun metal.

Let the oil dry nearly completely... it will get a little tacky to the touch. Roughly 10 mins.

Take a clean rag or cheese cloth and buff the panel removing any excess oil.
Very cool. I wonder if there is a less expensive alternative to CerMark. Also an alternative to CerMark for glass and tile is to engrave directly onto the glass or tile, then apply either an oil or acrylic pigment over the engraved area.
There is a less expensive alternative, by the same company, but they really do recommend the CerMark for stainless steel. <br> <br>Also, you don't have to buy the spray cans. It is MUCH less expensive to buy the bottles and mix it with denatured alcohol. You can brush it on, or use a sprayer to apply it. You can buy a small bottle (30g) for around $30, or a 500g bottle for about $220 if you know where to go (Laserbits.com). There are also bottles in between, for different prices. <br> <br>The coverage on the 500g bottle is supposed to be around 10,000 square inches or so, if you dilute it properly. The spray cans are easy, but you're paying for that convenience. <br> <br>I've also heard of de-focusing the laser a bit to create a smoother result (focus and then lower laser bed by about 1/8&quot;). I have yet to try that myself, but as it's recommended for acrylic and AlumaMark as well, I'm guessing that it works.
Not that I am aware of. It seems to be a liquified clay with alcohol as a drying agent and a propelant. I am sure there are other ingredients but the green gray kinda screams modeler's clay. Which when fired or layered in this process would harden into a ceramic.<br><br>You would have to laser glass a lot to get the depth needed to colorfill. It would be easier to laser the mask out and sandblast it. Usually you get a lot of fractures and chipping when glass is lasered too deep because it doesn't vaporize the material like wood or plastic.
I stand corrected. There is a product that is a little cheaper. The same company might even make it since this site sells both CerMark and TherMark.<br>http://www.thermark.com/<br><br>for 900/sq inch can I think it said it was $58 or so... but they recommend the CerMark for more permanent applications. This looks grey in color instead of the green CerMark is.
I'm thinking something like a French green clay in powder form, like used in a clay facial mask. Which is a lot cheaper if that's what they use. I guess the easiest way is to do an experiment.... A little of the clay powder and alcohol in a slurry and see if it works. LoL
Let me know if this was helpful! ;)

About This Instructable



More by mookiechan:How to 'Test Engrave' an object before Engraving it! (Rotary & Laser) 3D Halloween House/Graveyard (C02 Laser) Metal Marking Control Panels with a C02 Laser (using CerMark) 
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