PETG or Polycarbonate Sheets (you can order them from the following places: MSC
, Tap Plastics
, Aircraft Spruce & Specialty
, and probably a lot of local suppliers as well). You want the 1/16" thick stuff, and I went with 4'x4' sheets ($~20/a piece). This is the only somewhat obscure material, you should be able to get everything else from your local hardware store.
Some long strips of cardboard suitable for transferring patterns
Spray paint if you're planning on painting it (optional)Tools:
Aircraft Tin Snips (or DREMEL, etc)
Sharpie or other means of marking cardboard
Ruler and/or measuring tape (nice to have both, however).
Protractor for making baffles
Hacksaw or bandsaw for cutting PVC pipe for the supports.
Drill plus some small bits for drilling mounting holes in fairing.
A small wood rasp for doing cleanup (unnecessary if you have a Dremel)
C clamps for holding parts (at least a couple little ones) together.
Vise for holding PVC pipe.
Two options for bonding: (you have to pick one and get everything mentioned for that case):
I). ABS Glue, a turkey baster, masking tape, small bottle of MEK (methyethlykeytone), lots of newspaper, a glass jar, gloves and googles for cleanup, I would also recommend a mask: be very sure you have good ventilation. This option is essentially "chemical welding".
II). plastic welder (hot air, conduction or ultrasonic, you may need an air compressor if you go the hot air route) plus welding rod plus skill. This option can be a lot more dicey with transparent materials because any sort of heat distortion will ruin the transparency, but it is possible with a fed-rod design to get nice joints with it.
I decided to go with option (I) for this instructable because of the heat distortion issues (which are probably addressable with a fed-rod welder, I just don't own one). Some additional notes: ABS is not your only option for the glue base: a better option would be to use a material designed for use with PETG: I just used it because everyone has access to it and I believe it will hold up pretty well. If you want to make your own, I have elsewhere detailed some experiments using a coffee grinder to grind up your PETG cast offs and some MEK to dissolve them. I do not recommend this route unless you are really concerned with having a clear fairing on 100% of the surface (not a bad goal at all, just has a cost to it).
You are going to have to be (or get! you can do this!) comfortable working with PVC pipe: both cutting and gluing it. There are a ton of tutorials online (for instance, here
), so I'm not going to repeat them here, but always remember that you can do test pieces on a smaller scate to get a feeling for things. I highly recommend doing so whenever possible, you will see that for my first build I did not mask things properly and lots of the resultant joints were messy. Optional:
Dremel tool or equivalent (any small high speed hand grinder) plus tungsten carbide cutting bits (there's a photo below of the kind I like) for doing cleanup, plumb bob (you can make your own), drill press, V blocks, PVC pipe cutter. All of these tools are worth having and will make the workflow go a lot faster, but it is possible to get by without them if you're motivated to save money.