Method for making 3D shapes (used to make a bike fairing)

Step 2 Things I learned (and wish I knew before I began!!)

A). The main thing (and you will see this in the photos!) is that the dream of not having drips is a pipe dream. The real solution to glue management with these things is to use masking to prevent the pipe glue from coming in contact with the non-joint areas of the fairing. You can use the packing tape I used to secure the crescents while they were being glued or any stiff plastic tape, but regular masking tape is a no-no because you won't be able to remove it if there's glue on top of it. All you have to do is put two strips on either side of your joint and the messy joints you see here will be a thing of the past (you can always clean things up with the dremel). Having said that, if you're planning on painting the fairing, you can dispense with the masking, and the job will definitely go faster. Ditto for if you're planning to build solar panels in, even with the drips I had going you still have plenty of transparent surface. Having said all that, if you want to go for show, dripping black glue on one side of the clear plastic gives you some really interesting visual effects.
B). The second thing is to always start any sort of attachment at the tip (whether the curvature is highest) and tape your way back to the back edge.
C). Third, if you can do this with someone it's more fun and a little bit easier (extra hands are welcome when you're dealing with big sheets).
D). Do not underestimate the amount of monkeying you will have to devote to the brackets that hold it. I'm going to be updating it with some improved designs over the next few weeks, this ended up being tricker than any other part of the project, even with access as I have to good CAD tools.