Method for making 3D shapes (used to make a bike fairing)

Step 5 Tape and Glue on the sides

You will find that gluing the elongated sections is much more annoying than gluing the smaller segments because they are larger and hence more unwieldy. It's harder to get to the joints if you have to lean over a big section, and a long unsupported top will want to collapse. There are a couple of ways to deal with these problems, but the easiest is to add a cut line midway through the elongate section (the approach I use here) so that you can attach a rectangular piece of sheet stock in a simpler fashion. Having an extra joint will, however, reduce the clarity of your finished piece, so If you are really pushing for clarity wait for a little while and I'll post the technique I used to generate the side-wind safe fairing.
For the meantime, I will show you how to deal with elongated segments on a smaller piece. Be sure that you have your baffles strongly in place before you start, they will help to keep things oriented properly (I have a little note at the bottom about how to tape the baffles in if you're having trouble).
The steps are as follows: first you lay one of the elongated segments on top of the three segment piece (from step 3) and tape the edge you're going to be gluing. Next you tape the tip of the second elongated segment to the tip of the first elongated segment. Finally, you tape the long edge of the second elongated segment to the three segment piece and force the final five segment piece into it's final configuration. I will emphasize that getting the segments to mesh properly at the tip will solve all kinds of ills, but the good news is that a little bit of slop can be taken up by the liquid plastic glue.