I've been flying 250 sized FPV (first person view) quadcopters for just over a year now. For those who aren't familiar with FPV, you outfit a camera to the front of your quadcopter and transmit the video to a pair or goggles or a monitor. You then get to pilot the quadcopter from the perspective of the aircraft. It is so much fun and lets you fly in ways that would be impossible line of site.

I wanted to build a micro FPV quadcopter that I could fly around my house and in areas where my larger copters are too big. I have a 3D printer so I was hoping that I could find a 3D printed frame that I could use. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any 3D printed frames that were exactly what I wanted. I decided to design my own! My goals were to keep it crash resistant, light weight and offer good protection for onboard gear.

I'm going to walk you through the steps to building your very own micro FPV quadcopter. You will have a blast flying it and will have the pride of having built it yourself!

Step 1: Parts List

Basic Parts

Radio Options

The Micro Scisky requires a DSM2 compatible receiver. Of course, you will only need one radio but here are some options.

The parts listed above are enough to get you up in the air. If this is your first quadcopter build, I would suggest stopping here and getting comfortable with flying before you install FPV gear.

FPV Gear (Optional)

  • Camera: 170 Degree Wide Angle Camera
  • Video Transmitter: FX758-2 5.8G 200mW vTX
  • Voltage Regulator: Pololu 5v step-up - NOTE: In the attached image, I was not using a 5v regulator and was drawing power for the FPV gear straight from the flight controller. This is not recomended and can fry the voltage regulator on the Scisky.
  • Antenna: 20-22awg solid copper wire.

Video Options (Optional)

There are many options for viewing the FPV feed but here are a few.

Other Stuff You'll Need

  • Soldering Iron
  • Solder
  • Basic Soldering Skills
  • Zip Tie
  • Double Sided Tape
  • Wire Cutters
  • Hot Glue Gun
  • Hot Glue Stick
  • Rubber Band

Step 2: Print the Frame

Head to Thingiverse and download the frame. I recommend using the V3 bottom. It is the strongest of the bunch. Pick a top that suits your flying style. There are options for camera with up-tilt, down-tilt, and straight ahead. There is also a top without a camera mount.

Be sure to follow the printing instructions on the Thingiverse page, these settings will yield the strongest print. PLA can be used but ABS will give you more crash resistance. In the photo, I printed the top in PLA and the bottom in ABS.

If you don't have a 3D printer, use the 3D Hubs button to get one printed.

Step 3: Soldering Up the Motors and Battery Connector

Attach Flight Controller

Use some double sided tape to attach the Scisky to the frame. Make sure that your USB cable can access the USB port with the Scisky attached. You can add another layer of double sided tape if it is hard to access the connector. I used a hobby knife to shave some of the plastic from the connector of my USB cable to make it easier to plug in.

I like to add a zip tie around the Scisky and through the bottom of the frame to help hold it in place.

Install Motors

Insert the motors into the frame. If you find the motors hard to install, you can use a flat head screw driver to open the gap in the motor mount to help you slide them in. You want the motors to be snug. If the motors feel loose in their mount, use a little bit of electrical tape around the base of the motor to help keep them tight. Be careful that you allow the motor wires to pass through the slot when pushing the motors into the mounts.

The motors wire color corresponds to the rotation of the motors. I have annotated the photo with the correct motor rotation for each position along with the corresponding wire colors.

Next, carefully solder the wires to the motor solder pad. The color of the wires indicate polarity.

  • Red +
  • Blue -
  • White +
  • Black -

The solder pads for the motor wires are very small and can be a challenge to solder. Double check that you didn't bridge any of the solder pads.

Install Battery Pigtail

Cut a lead off of the charging cable. You will want to experiment with the correct length. The pigtail should reach the battery's connector but should stay out of the way of the props. I like to use a rubber band on the top to both hold the battery and help keep the battery lead out of the props. Once you have found the size you like, solder on the battery pigtail, connecting black to GND and red to VIN.

Step 4: Cleanfight - Flashing Latest Cleanflight

Installing Cleanflight Configurator

Cleanflight is an open source firmware for flight controllers. The Micro Scisky runs Cleanflight and needs to be configured. There is a lot of depth to configuring Cleanflight but I am going to go over the basics to get you flying. There is plenty more to learn if you want to dive deeper into this topic.

First head on over to the Google Chrome Store. Install Cleanflight Configurator and open it up. The Configurator is a Chrome App that you will use to configure the Scisky.

WARNING: Do not connect the copter to USB with the battery connected. You run the risk of damaging the flight controller.

Flashing Latest Cleanflight

The firmware that came stock on my Scisky is 1.9.0. We are going to upgrade to the latest version which is currently 1.12.1.

Connect your Scisky to your computer using a micro USB cable, then follow these steps in the Cleanflight Configurator.

  1. Click the "Firmware Flasher" tab on the left
  2. From the "Choose a Firmware / Board" dropdown, choose "1.12.1 NAZE". Make sure your options match the screenshot:
    • No reboot sequence: Off
    • Full chip erase: On
    • Manual baud rate: Off
  3. Click the "Load Firmware [Online]" button.
  4. Click the "Flash Firmware" button. You will see the progress of the flash and a "Programming: SUCCESSFUL"message when it is complete.

Congratulations! You have just upgraded your Micro Scisky to the latest version of Cleanflight.

Step 5: Cleanflight - Basic Setup

In this step, we are going to configure some basic settings for Cleanflight.

Start by hitting the "Connect" button at the top of the Configurator to connect to the Scisky. You will begin on the "Setup" tab.

Setup Tab

Place your quad on a level surface and hit "Calibrate Accelerometer".

Ports Tab

  1. Turn on "Serial RX" on UART2
  2. Hit "Save and Reboot"

Configuration Tab

  1. Turn "MOTOR_STOP" on.
  2. Set "Minimum Throttle" to 1000.
  3. Set "Maximum Throttle" to 2000.
  4. Select "RX_SERIAL" from the "Receiver Mode" list.
  5. Select "SPEKTRUM1024" from the "Serial Reveiver Provider" list.
  6. Click "Save and Reboot".

Once you have completed the configuration tab, go back to the ports tab and make sure Serial RX is still enabled on UART2. Then go back to the Configuration tab and make sure the "RX_SERIAL" option is still selected. If you need to change the settings again, make sure you save before moving to the other tab. I have noticed times where Cleanflight likes to forget my RX changes for some reason.


We need to change one more option so go to the CLI tab.

  1. Type "set motor_pwm_rate = 32000" into the box at the bottom of the CLI tab and hit enter. You should see the text output above confirm your entry.
  2. Type "save" and hit enter. The option will be saved and the board will reboot.

Step 6: Cleanflight - Radio Binding and Setup

Binding Your Radio

With basic configuration of Cleanflight out of the way, it is time to bind to a radio. When the Scisky is first powered up, the red LED flashes slowly indicating that it is looking for a bound radio. If after 10 seconds, it does not find a radio, it enters bind mode and the red LED flashes quickly.

  1. Connect the Scisky to USB.
  2. Wait 10 seconds for the red LED to begin flashing quickly.
  3. Put your radio into bind mode. Consult the instructions for your radio if you need help with this. If you are having trouble binding, try holding the antenna of your radio very close to the Scisky antenna, like almost touching.
  4. When binding is successful, the red LED on the Scisky will turn sold.

Receiver Tab

With the radio bound, it is time to setup the receiver. Connect to the Scisky in the Configurator and head over to the Receiver tab.

Move the sticks on your radio and observe the channel values. If the channels that are changing in the Configurator do not match what you expect based on the stick you are moving, change the "Channel Map" until they do. Note: you will need to hit "Save" before the "Channel Map" changes take affect.

In the next section, we will be assigning an AUX stick to arm your copter. Arming is a step for safety and tells the copter that you are ready to fly. The motors will not spin if the copter is not armed.

Find a switch that you would like to use to arm and see if it moves an AUX channel. A three position switch works best for this if you have one. Once you have found the switch that you would like to use, remember the AUX channel number that it manipulates. I am going to be using AUX 1.

Modes Tab

Now it is time to setup arming and flight modes so open the Modes tab.

WARNING: You are going to be arming the copter in this step to test the settings. Make sure the battery is not connected.

  1. Click "Add Range" in the ARM section.
  2. Set the AUX channel that you picked for arming.
  3. Move the sliders to set the range of the channel that you want to specify as "Armed". In the image above, my arm switch is setup to be disarmed in the up position and armed in the middle and bottom position. You can move the switch on your radio and observe the green tick move indicating the current position.
  4. Click "Add Range" in the ANGLE section.
  5. Set the AUX channel that you chose.
  6. Move the sliders to select the entire range. This means that the copter will always be in Angle or self leveling mode. If you are familiar with flying in rate mode, you can set this slider up accordingly. You can read more about flight modes here.
  7. Click Save.

Step 7: Installing Props and Maiden Flight

Installing Top Plate

Install the top using nylon machine screws and nuts. You can cut the nylon screws to length once they are installed, or you can use them as landing legs.

Attach a rubber band to the top plate using the hooks. The rubber band is used to hold the battery in place. I like to use the rubber band to help keep the battery cable out of the way as well.

Installing Props

The props on a quadcopter alternate turning clockwise and counterclockwise around the frame. The prop spins towards the edge of the prop that is higher, known as the leading edge. An easy way to remember how to install the props is to turn them to form parallel lines across the front and back of the quad. The inside edge, closest to the body of the quad will always have the leading edge facing the opposite prop. Take a look at the picture for a visual explanation.

Maiden Flight

Now it is time to test out your work so far. You won't have the FPV gear installed yet but it is best to test line of sight for your first flight.

Turn on your radio and plug in the battery. Now arm the copter using your transmitter switch. Slowly take off and enjoy your first flight!

Congratulations! You have just maidened your custom built quadcopter!

If you are new to quadcopters I would suggest stopping at this step for now. Practice and improve your flying skills. It may be challenging at first but with practice flying these little machines will become second nature.

When you are ready to install FPV gear, check out the next step.

Step 8: Installing FPV Gear


I am going to describe an easy approach to wiring up the FPV gear. While the video transmitter is capable of transmitting on different frequencies, for the sake of simplicity, we will use the default frequency of 5865MHz.

Because the video transmitter and camera like to run on 5v, we will be using a voltage regulator to boost the battery voltage to 5v for the FPV gear.

Laying Out Components

Get your frame top, video transmitter, camera, and voltage regulator ready. It's time to install the FPV gear.

Test fit the camera in the camera mount. Observe where the camera will sit when installed. Lay a bead of hot glue inside the camera mount where the top edge of the camera will sit. While the glue is still hot, quickly push the camera into the mount. Be sure that the microphone and wires are facing up with the top laying flat; this is the bottom of the camera.

Use hot glue or double sided tape to attach the video transmitter and voltage regulator as shown.

Wiring It Up

Carefully follow the wiring diagram in the attached image to solder up the connections. You can use the extra wire from the camera wiring harness to complete all of the connections. You won't need the connector that comes with the camera.

The Scisky will already have the battery pigtail connected but you can power the voltage regulator from the same solder pads. Take your time and make sure you get all of the connections right.

Optionally, you can use a connector between the voltage regulator and the Scisky to make it easier to remove the top of the frame for repairs.

WARNING: Do not connect the battery just yet. Video transmitters can be damaged if they do not have an antenna attached.

Connecting the Antenna

Strip the insulation off of a 2 inch length of solid copper wire and solder it to the antenna pad of the video transmitter. Once it is soldered in place, cut the antenna to exactly 12.8mm. It is important to cut the antenna to the correct length. The length is tuned to the frequency in which the video transmitter is broadcasting. The antenna length is tuned to the quarter wavelength of 5865MHz, found using this handy calculator.


Double check all of your connections, then check them again. Once you feel confident in your work, plug the battery in. Power up your goggles or monitor and search through the channels. If all went well, you will see the video being transmitted from your new FPV quadcopter!

Now you are ready to assemble the frame and take it for a FPV test flight.

WARNING: The video transmitter can become hot, especially without the cooling of wind and spinning props. I don't like to leave the battery connected for very long if I am not flying to avoid damaging the transmitter.

Step 9: Conclusion

If you made it this far, I hope you have enjoyed my Instructable. If you have any suggestions to make it better please let me know.

Enjoy your new FPV quadcopter :)!

<p>The Micro Scisky flight controller that you link to in the build is unavailable for purchase and I was unable to find it anywhere else online. Is there another board that will work as well and have a similar price tag? </p>
<p>Check out my thingiverse page with an expanded list of FC options. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1221911</p>
<p>Same problem - did you find an answer?</p>
Have had trouble sourcing the micro scisky suggested above. Can I interchange with the micro scisky 32 bit brushed flight control board naze32 with DSM2 receiver RC419?
<p>Check out my thingiverse page with an expanded list of FC options. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1221911</p>
<p>CleanFlight sees all four motors but they aren't spinning up. Any thoughts? </p>
<p>So I just got one of the new generations of Sciskys off of Amazon (probably sold by Banggood just through Amazon) and it has a TON of problems I have never encountered before. First off, I have used plenty of the older Scisky models and some of the old- new ones, but I just can't get the newest one to work. By &quot;newest one&quot; I mean the new design of board labeled &quot;F3&quot;. The &quot;old-new ones&quot; look similar to the &quot;newest ones&quot;, but have slightly different jumping pad locations and don't have the &quot;F3&quot; label. These &quot;old-new&quot; boards have worked fine with me. So the board (newest) arrived pre-flashed with an unknown firmware. Note: on all of my other Sciskys, I have connected though a UART port but with these, I have to connect through a usbmodem port. When bound, the channels on the receiver tab jump around randomly. (yes I'm very sure that I have it configured properly for my DX5e) and there seems like there is nothing I can do to fix it. Plus, I can't enable Serial RX for UART 2 because when saved, it doesn't change (this is also the case for many other settings within the configuration section). To make it even worse, when I press &quot;save and reboot&quot;, instead of staying on the configuration tab and just saying &quot;rebooting&quot; in the upper left corner of the page (like my other 20 boards do), the board disconnects, briefly reconnects, and then disconnects again until I press connect again to get a solid connection. At first I thought this was just a problem with one specific board, so I got two more. ALL of them have the same problems with slight variations. I am unsure how to re-flash the firmware because I don't know which tabs to use the jumper wire with (the F3 versions have a different jumper pad configuration than all other Sciskys I have seen) I have tried to flash without the jumper wire, but I get the &quot;no response from bootloader&quot; problem. (I have successfully flashed over 20 older generation boards using the jumper to ALIENWIIF1 firmware. I have found that ALIENWIIF1 was the only firmware that works) I am completely clueless on what to do next. Any help is greatly appreciated.</p><p>Thanks </p>
<p>Thank you. Great instructions and very easy to follow!</p><p>I have run into a problem though and I have read through other comments and have yet to find a solution. I bought the quanum 32 FC from HobbyKing. It is very similar/copy to the one you used. I connect it to cleanflight and update the firmware and follow all the settings and all seems good. EXCEPT I can't get the motors to spin. I go to the motor tab and click their little warning button then move the sliders but nothing happens. The sliders move and the graphs go up but motors do nothing. I bought several FC units and soldered up another and the issue is the same. Ideas? Thank you for any help.</p>
<p>This is an awesome build! I used your suggestion to use the Hubsan flight controller and transmitter which worked great. I have created a remix which can/will evenually be found on thingiverse. </p>
<p>I have the Taranis Plus and OrangeRX DSMX/DSM2 Module from the parts list. I can bind to the receiver - which is indicated by both a solid red light and the Receiver tab of CleanFlight. However, regardless of the control inputs, the channel values never move. I've tried the specific firmware version above, as well as the latest. I've rechecked the SerialRX on UART2, RX_SERIAL, and SPEKTRUM1024 settings. I've turned off the Taranis' internal receiver, turned on the external receiver with DSM2 DSM2 CH1-8. I can see that the inputs are attached to the channels. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance and I *love* this Instructable - I've been to this page so many times that it autocompletes when I type in &quot;i&quot; in the browser's address bar :-)</p>
<p>Thanks, I'm glad you like it! Sorry for the delayed response. I'm confused by the statements &quot;the channel values never move&quot; and &quot;I can see that the inputs are attached to the channels&quot;. Where can you see that the inputs are attached to the channels? Can you try setting the module to DSMX? Did you change any dip switches on the module? You can also try different combinations of RX_PPM and/or SPEKTRUM2048.</p><p>They changed something with the latest scisky, buy I can't remember the exact combination of combination of things that work for people. I don't have a newer version of the board, but I'll try to help.</p>
<p>THANK YOU! I'm so excited to fly this thing. I've been waiting a month for my parts and finally have everything. I had the same exact problem as dcgrigsby, same transmitter, same orange module same troubleshooting steps. I did have the internal module turned off and the orange module set to PPM, still no dice. What fixed it for me was to set Receiver Mode: RX_PPM and Serial Receiver Provider: SPEKTRUM2048. Need to get some rest but will be at it first thing in the morning :)</p>
<p>No problem for the delay. I'm grateful for your help - it's very kind of you. I took the Orange module out and confirmed that it's set to DSM2 (and when I switch it to DSMX it doesn't bind) and SPEKTRUM1024. I have tried both RX_PPM and RX_SERIAL. When in SERIAL, the graph changes when it binds (see attached); in either neither mode do the channels show any changes when I move the controls (see other attached). It's a real head scratcher - everything is new, so I can't say definitively that the Taranis, Orange or FC work, and not sure the best path to determine it. I have a Pixhawk that I'll unbox and use to test the Taranis. Beyond that, I'd be grateful for any ideas.</p>
<p>Edit for clarity: I have a receiver for a Pixhawk that I'll use to test the Taranis.</p>
<p>Is this a new taranis? Did you setup a new model in the taranis and tell it to use the external module? Does the model have channels setup?</p>
<p>It is a new Taranis. I set up a new model, the important bits are in the images. The switches on the Orange module are all off, with is DSM2-1024. BTW, and with no expectation of quid pro quo, do you have a wish list somewhere or a favorite charity or something? I've never seen someone put in this kind of support for an Instructable - would like to say thanks. </p>
<p>Ahhh! Change External RF to PPM. That should do the trick! You will probably want to add an entry for CH5 up to CH8 in the mixer page, assigning them to switches. Those will act as your AUX channels in cleanflight. Let me know if that sorts it out for you.<br><br>I help a lot because I love this stuff :). I also remember how hard it was getting started. I do use affiliate links for some of the products I list and that helps to fuel my addiction and publish more content. Check out my blog at http://fpvobsession.com/. </p>
<p>Success! The channels move when I move the controls. I take it that the Orange module takes its input as PPM and does the conversion to DSM on the board. I never would have guessed that. Thank you so much! You're the best person on the Internet. I bought everything using the links you provided (I did notice the bit.ly links and thought they might be affiliate link). </p>
<p>Awesome! I'm glad you got it working. Let me know if you run into any other issues.</p>
<p>Also, for reference. PPM frame says 22.5ms 300u -. I'm pretty sure those were the defaults.</p>
<p>Thanks to punkkills for this most excellent build!</p><p>I built this and fought through soldiering one board and pretty much destroyed it. My eyes are not what they used to be. Second one works good (i bought connectors and soldered those on instead). Have not installed the camera yet. Flew it off the table and smacked the ceiling! Flew it off again and it landed on the TV. That was yesterday. Flew it in the kitchen and started to get the hang of it. Decided to go into the other room and when the cat started to chase it I killed the throttle 'cause I didn't want it to hurt her. Good thing I did not put the camera on it yet because it LANDED IN THE CATS WATER BUCKET!! It quit working! So, I am posting this to thank punkkills for giving me the opportunity to build something I wanted to build since I was 12 in 1975 and also to let anyone passing by know how I got it to work after it became a submarine.</p><p>1. Put it in a bag of rice to suck the water out</p><p>2. Took the board off the frame but left the wires connected and doused the whole thing with clean, bottled water.</p><p>3. Poured about a fourth of a large bottle of rubbing alcohol over it to wash it better and to dissipate/dissolve the water.</p><p>4. Blew on it, swung it around to dry it.</p><p>5. Plugged into cleanflight (it wouldn't connect to the radio)</p><p>6. Flashed it</p><p>7. Followed the instructions on here once again</p><p>It works now!</p>
<p>I have essentially the same problem as dcgrigsby, but my transmitter is the DX6i.</p><p>I have followed all the instructions in this Instructable, but when it comes to the maiden flight, the quadcopter is unresponsive. How do you arm the quadcopter? How do you set up an AUX channel for arming? Thank you to anyone who has any information regarding those topics.</p>
<p>Does the trasmitter respond when you're in CleanFlight? try flipping switches to see which one is usable for your ARM mode. I used AUX1 for mine, so when you go the MODES in cleanflight, the first mode to configure is arm. You'll see the little green tick-mark to indicate the current value being received on that channel. If you flip your AUX1 switch, you'll see it jump up. Move the target range to cover this value. Then apply the change. Then plug your battery in and once its bound to the transmitter, you should see the green(?) light blink indicating that it's not armed, but if you fip the AUX1 switch it should arm. </p><p>Beyond that, you may have to modify your throttle thresholds, it may not be low enough. I'm a beginner, I had similar problems. Enough tinkering around and you'll get it.</p>
<p>Thank you for your response!</p><p>Is the AUX switch sort of hidden? Because there isn't a label anywhere that shows you the switch for AUX 1. The only switches that are labeled are TH Hold, F Mode, Elevator Dual Rate, Gyro, Aileron Dual Rate, Rudder Dual Rate, and Trainer.</p><p>And how do you modify the throttle thresholds? Should I do that in my transmitter settings?</p><p>Also, is there a way to set the arming using the two sticks?</p><p>Thanks again for helping. I will try it.</p>
<p>Hi Ilyu, the Fmode switch should control Aux 1. Does it move the Aux 1 channel in the receiver tab when you move the switch? </p><p>You will probably need to scale the channels coming out of your radio in order to arm. Check out my response to <a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/MalcolmK2" rel="nofollow">MalcolmK2</a> below, I explain why. You can use the rxrange in the cli to do this. Let me know if this doesn't make any sense. What are the minimum and maximum values for throttle in the receiver tab when you move the stick between min and max?</p>
<p>Thank you to both of you!</p><p>Sorry to keep bothering you guys, but right now for me, the main problem is that none of the dials move in cleanflight when I switch any of the switches (in other words, either cleanflight or the switches are irresponsive), so I don't know which one controls which. Is this a problem with the radio, the software, or the board? The Scisky's red light is solid and not flashing, so the radio and receiver (it's already on the Scisky, right?) should be binded. Is the green light the arming light? </p><p>Thanks again.</p>
<p>This may sound crazy but try setting the receiver mode to PPM. I know it is suppose to be serial, but for some reason only PPM works for me</p>
<p>Yes! That is the case for me, too. The channels move for PPM. Thank you, ChristianG134. I'll see if I can get it to fly, and if not, I'll ask for more help from you guys. This has been so helpful!</p><p>Okay, sorry, another question: why is it that the propellers begin spinning right when I connect the Scisky to the battery? This problem only occurred a while ago. Before, only the Scisky turned on and the propellers didn't move. Is there a way to fix this?</p>
<p>I'm glad the PPM setting works. Its strange, I know. I'm sure there's a logical explanation as to why that is the case...</p><p>If the props spin, you don't have the MOTOR_STOP setting turned on, probably.</p>
<p>for the motors spinning when you connect the battery, got to the cli and type &quot;set motor_pwm_rate = 32000&quot; and then hit enter then type &quot;save&quot; and hit enter.</p>
<p>Ilya: do any of the channels move (e.g., the throttle)? </p>
<p>I am happy to try and help. I don't guarantee my responses will be helpful, but I will assure you that I try to be :)</p><p>Your questions are as follows:</p><p>1) is the aux 1 hidden?</p><p>A)No, not hidden just not labeled. The aux refers to the a band on your transmitter. Every one is different, I'm sure. In fact my FSFLY T-SIX allows your to remap everything. My remap I, of course, mean to move the value from one physical switch or stick to another. So, your AUX1 may be on a switch that you haven't flipped. I would consult your manual on how to change them and then set your AUX1 to a stick that you like. I put my AUX1 on the &quot;F-MODE GEAR&quot; switch. So I simply flip the switch to ARM the quadcopter. You will likely want to, similarly, bind it to a convenient switch.</p><p>2) How to modify thresholds</p><p>A) I'm probably not using the correct terminology, here. Sorry that I'm not more experienced but I expected that a more experienced RC'er will see my failings and respond (hopefully?) Modifying the thresholds are done within cleanflight, I think. But the transmitter can probably modify the &quot;Travel Adjustment&quot;. For instance, my T-SIX didn't return a low enough value for the micro scisky to allow the arming. What I had to do was put my throttle &quot;Travel Adj&quot; up to 117%. So effective range, when the throttle was all the way down, was low enough to allow the quadcopter to be armed. Without the travel adjustment being higher, I wouldn't be able to fly arm it. </p><p>3) Possible to use sticks to arm?</p><p>A)Yes i'm sure its possible. Nearly anything is possible, if you try hard enough! If I were you, I'd do the following because it was easy for me and I like being able to use a switch to arm/disarm. It just makes sense to use a switch!</p><p>Step 1) Make sure your transmitter is being bound correctly when in cleanflight. Check all your sticks and make sure they are responding the way you want to. If they aren't, simply change lettering from TAER to AETR or whatever works. You literally put your cursor in the box and backspace a letter and retype the letters in the appropriate order. Once you have the sticks responding correctly..</p><p>Step 2) star flipping your switches and figure out which one responds on AUX1 or AUX2 or whatever. You'll see the bar respond in clean flight. It'll jump up, then down when you flip it on and off. Then go to the modes and pick the correct AUX from the dropdown menu on the ARM mode. You'll see the little green dot showing the current value being transmitted by your radio transmitter. Flip your switch to the ON position to make sure you're on the right channel, then move the sliders to &quot;cover&quot; that value</p>
<p>I loved your ible so much I had to go crazy with a flying geo...</p><p>https://www.instructables.com/id/GEO-Metro-LSI-Drone/</p>
<p>I had to add skulls......</p>
<p>Almost airborne, so exited, but I'm having motor issues as well. They respond to the controls, but they can't get airborne and one or two of the motors will eventually slow to a stop. If I mess with the controls they kick back in again, but they sound like they're struggling and eventually slow back down again. I've Gone though the Cleanflight set up multiple times to make sure I didn't mess anything up, and I've made sure that the batteries are charged. Any Idea what Might be causing this? Thanks!</p>
<p>When I built mine, I put the propellers on the wrong side. Too me forever to figure out, but there is a little R or L on the propeller.</p>
<p>Anyone have any ideas why all but one motor is working? I tested another motor on the S3 spot and still nothing. So therefore I know that all the motors are working and still nothing. I don't think my soldering was terrible enough for it to not make a connection. Is there a command or some setting that is disabling that motor? Thanks for any suggestions as I really want to get this thing up and flying around!</p>
<p>Great guide punkkills! love this build. do you know an alternative to the micro scisky? i was looking at the 'SP RACING F3 EVO Brush' on banggood, but this board doesn't have a receiver. I want to use it with my Taranis</p>
<p>Do you have any suggestions for material/temp? My PLA and ABS both have been breaking at the motor mounts. Its a clean break, so perhaps I've got some sort of binding issue. Was anyone else experienced this? What does everyone else print in? What durability do you experience?</p>
I was looking at the FsFly T-6 transmitter and it doesn't come with a receiver does that mean you would have to purchase one separately for this project?
<p>The Scisky has a built in DSM2 receiver which is compatible with the T-6.</p>
<p>FYI the newest version of the micro skiscy isn't working on RX_Serial mode for me and only responds on RX_PPM</p>
<p>Great work !!</p><p> I am getting everything done correct. but as soon as it is maiden flight time... NOTHING ! I can spin the motors from cleanflight, and my T6 is connected and I have armed it using your way, but when I sit it down on the floor plug in the battery wait for it to connect to the remote controller... UP throttlestick does NOTHING !! ARGH... What is it I am missing ,... </p>
<p>Hey, sorry for the late response. I really need to put a &quot;common arming issues&quot; section or something somewhere because you aren't the first have this problem.</p><p>My best guess is that the quad is not arming. I assume you setup the arming switch correctly and that you can see the switch move the little tick below arm in the modes tab?</p><p>Next check the receiver tab and observe the range of the throttle stick. The values should be as close to 1000-2000 as you can get them. In order to arm, the throttle needs to be below a certain threshold and I bet that your throttle is not going low enough. If the values are not close to 1000-2000 for all of the sticks, you should be able to adjust that from your radio. Something like &quot;travel adjust&quot; and push that percentage up for each channel until the range gets as close to 1000-2000 as you can get.</p><p>There is another thing you can look at in the CLI. Type &quot;get min_check&quot;. That is the value that the throttle needs to be below to arm. I bet that value is lower than your lowest throttle value in the receiver tab.</p><p>I imagine that adjusting your radio channel range will fix the problem, but another thing that will prevent the quad from arming is its orientation. Make sure that the accelerometer is properly calibrated and that the quad is sitting flat when you are trying to arm.</p><p>I hope this helps, let me know if you have any more questions.</p>
<p>He does a fine job of keeping level, once he is in air.</p><p>https://twitter.com/webberen/status/769230251335573504</p>
<p>You ARE AWESOME !! The Props spins! It was in fact that it didn't go low enough to arm the thing.</p><p> Now to get the hang of flying...</p>
Wow, that is very detailed information, thanks a lot! I will try that this evening. <br><br>And again super cool project, when this is mastered it's on to a bigger quad project. ;)
<p>Hello. First off I just want to say thank you for posting this design and answering all the questions you already have. It has been great fun building and debugging the quad. </p><p>I am new to quads, So my question is about basics. I am using a DX6i receiver. I just did my first flight. Right now the roll is setup so if I push the stick to the right, the numbers in CF get smaller and the quad will actually move to the Left. I can fly it like this but it seems very counter-intuitive. So do I just need to reverse the numbers some how or is it in fact supposed to be this way? Thanks in advance. </p>
<p>You might have to reverse some of the channels. You can do this from the radio with the DX6i. When you push both sticks to the upper right, all the channel values should be at max.</p>
Hello. I have just finished the quad with fpv option and it weights 45g with the fpv without the battery. And I wanted to take off it but it couldn't. What is the optimum weight of your quad with the battery?

About This Instructable




More by punkkills:Micro 105 FPV Quadcopter - 3D Printed 
Add instructable to: