Fall is upon us.
All you need to get by is a good comfortable skirt with places to put your stuff (pockets!).
This skirt is made in midi-length, which is the length you will see down the runways and in the stores for Fall. Pantone's color of the season for Fall 2014 is Radiant Orchid. Pantone is alright in my book, so I decided to give the bright color a whirl. I headed straight to my local fabric store and got a medium-weight cotton at 60" width.
For this circle skirt I will go over how to calculate the inner circle for your waist and how to draw your pattern right on the fabric, pockets and all!
Step 1: Skirt Length and Waist Radius - Do the Maths!
Calculate Yardage Needed
Figure Out Your Length of Skirt
Midi length is between the bottom of the kneecap and ankle. Using a tape measure, start from your waist and let it hang. Eyeball where you want your skirt to end and write it down. I chose mine to be 26" long. I also started with 72" wide fabric.
Figure Out Your Waist Radius
- Take the measuring tape and ring it around your waist to find out what your waist circumference (C) is.
- Add .5" seam allowance (SA) multiplied by the number of raw edges. For this skirt, you will have 6 raw edges because we are adding a center back seam for the zipper. You are welcome to add your zipper to a side seam which will make it 4 raw edges. I prefer mine to be in the back, so let's go with that.
So far we have:
C + (SA x 6)
29" + (.5" x 6) = 32"
- Divide this total by π, which is 3.14159265359, contract it to 3.14. This will give you the diameter of your waist measurement.
32" / 3.14 = 10.19
- Divide this total by 2 and minus the waist seam allowance (.5") to get the radius.
(10.19 ÷ 2) - .5" = 4.59"
- Round down for your radius measurement, in this instance that would be 4.5". Once you cut your waist it will stretch out a bit because it is cut on the bias.
Total for a 29" waist = 4.5"
Final Total of Yardage to Buy
- Add length of skirt (26") + hem (1") to waist radius (4.5") = 31.5"
- The skirt is made up of two semi-circles, so multiply the total by 2.
31.5" x 2 = 63"
- I also added on an extra 9" (1/4 yard) for good measure and the waistband. Divide by 36" (1 yard) to get total yardage!
(63" + 9") ÷ 36" = 2 yards to buy
Step 2: Gather Materials
~2 yards of fabric 72" width (you can use 60", which is more common, just make your skirt shorter)
1 matching 7" zipper
1/4 yards of medium-weight fusible interfacing
soft measuring tape
scissors or rotary blade
hard-edge ruler (if using rotary blade)
Step 3: Mark and Cut Pattern on Fabric
- Wash fabric to remove any sizing, dry and iron.
- Fold fabric in half and square off the two raw edges.
Mark Skirt Pattern
- Using chalk, mark the radius of your waist and length of skirt on the fabric like in the above illustration.
- Tie a piece of chalk to string, hold the string so the length matches your waist radius and draw the waistline in. Do the same for the hem line.
Mark Pocket Pattern
- Find a place on your fabric that has a blank spot that roughly measures 10" x 6". Lengthwise, mark 6" with chalk, this will be the opening of your inseam pockets. Make sure to leave enough room for your waist band!
- Flatten your hand down on the fabric with your wrist at the opening and trace around with about a 1" border creating a bean shape.
- Add .5" seam allowance with your graph ruler
Mark Waistband and Interfacing
- Take your full waist measurement and add an overlap (1") and SA (1")
For a waist of 29" this total would be 31"
- Draw the total length with a width of 4" to achieve a 1.5" finished waistband.
- To stabilize your waistband, you will want also want to mark a piece of fusible interfacing in the dimensions of:
1.5" x (waist measurement)
- Cut out the 2 semi-circles
- Cut out the pockets, you should get 2 at first, take one of the cut-outs, trace and cut two more to make a total of 4.
- Cut out 1 waistband and 1 interfacing.
To make the center back seam for the zipper, mark the center fold on one of the semi-circles at the waist and hem. Cut along crease dividing the semi-circle in half.
Step 4: Sew Invisible Zipper In
* Before anything, do a straight stitch around the waist of your skirt pieces, this will help the waist to not stretch too much over time while you are handling it.
- Take the fusible for the waistband, iron it on to one half of the waistband leaving the SA and 1" overlap at the ends.
- To make sure your raw cut edges don't fray you can overlock them or use the zig-zag stitch on a home sewing machine. My studio overlock is being serviced, so I used a 1/4" zig-zag to go around all the raw edges on the skirt and pocket pieces.
Sew In Invisible Zipper
- Open the zipper up and press the teeth away from the zipper teeth. This opens up the fold that is there when you buy the zipper and will allow you to sew closer to the teeth while installing.
- Mark .5" down from waist on the center seam
- Place the zipper so the edge of the zipper tape is up against the center-back edge and the top stopper is at the .5" mark from your waist. Pin.
- Use your zipper foot to sew 1/8" from the zipper teeth down to the zipper pull.
- Repeat on the other side of the center back seam, pin it first to make sure the waist matches up at the top when the zipper is closed.
Sew Center-Back Seam
- Once your zipper is sewn in, zip it up and you will notice that the tail of the zipper is detached at the bottom, pull it out of the way and pin up your center-back seam.
- Sew up the seam from the bottom, going up towards the zipper using your zipper foot. Sew past the zipper stitch line 1/8" - 1/4".
- Open up seam and press with iron. Pin and tack down the zipper tape at the bottom to keep the tail secure at the bottom.
Step 5: Sew Inseam Pockets
- Pin one pocket to the front of the skirt and one to the back, lining up the opening edge with the skirt side seams and the top of the pocket with the waist line.
- Sew .5" from waist to bottom of pocket where marked in the photo.
- Press open the pocket piece and topstitch 1/8" in from the seam towards the pocket, this will create the pocket to lay flat towards the inside of the skirt.
- Once you have done this to both the front and the back, pin the front to the back, right sides together and sew down .5" down from waist, around pocket and down the side seam.
- Repeat on other side.
- Open up side seam and press pocket towards front. You are done!
Step 6: Add Waistband
- Mark .5" and 1.5" from either end of waistband for your SA and overlap.
- Pin back zipper seam allowance and pin one side of the waistband around the circumference of the waist, matching up the markings to the zipper's edge.
- Sew .5" around waist, making sure to catch the top of the pockets
- Press up the sewn SA and fold the waistband in half, right side to ride side. Start with the side that does not have the 1" overlap, sew .5" in line with center-back seam.
- Go to the side with the overlap and sew your seam allowance, clip the corners and turn both ends inside out.
- On the side with the overlap, clip .5" up from raw edge and 1.5" in. Fold up fabric and pin.
- Pin all along waist seam, catching the .5" allowance on the inside.
- Sew together the open 1" bottom of overlap and stitch-in-the-ditch along waist seam, making sure to catch SA on inside.
Finish with Closure
- Finish off with a large hook and eye above the zipper closure.
Step 7: Hem Skirt
- Fold over raw edge of skirt .5" then another .5" to produce a rolled hem and edge stitch down.
- Press hem and you are done!