Over 14 billion copies have been sold, meaning that every single person on the earth bought the game twice, and those are statistics that are completely made up by me.
Nevertheless, Minecraft seemed to be very well suitable for papercraft, and not only that, it is the most searched keyword in the combination with papercraft on the whole internet and it even makes the people craft their Steves in iPhone apps (That was kind of sad, because my 2 papercraft apps have been dislodged).
First I was like meh, because the whole progress in papercraft history, the implementation of curves, the reduction of flaps, everything thrown away for pixely block heads, the absolute beginning of simplest paper works?
Then I was like yea whatever, because it makes people craft and maybe they want to dig deeper. So I gave in after a few months of Minecraft invading the papercraft sector and made a Minecraft Paper Machine. It moves, at least, and actually has got everything satisfying me as a paper designer, despite the curves.
And it is just a global phenomenon, which I swore to paperize all of, some may remember the Paper PSY, for example, it made me very happy that so many made him, I saw him in a lot of videos on Youtube.
Step 1: Preparation
- A Printer
- Internet (You just proved that you own that one)
- Paper (thick, about 160 - 200 g / m²), Scissors, Glue, Ruler
You can find the instructions here: http://www.kamibox.de/download
Please download the PDF and print at least the second page. The others are just decoration and instructions, but you get the instructions here in a written form. On that kind of paper, that is twice as thick and heavy as normal paper, the printer options for non-glossy photo paper are usually the best.
Step 2: Steve
The image is from another model, I forgot to take one, but I am quite sure that you are able to abstract from that.
This will make your model look so much more professional, especially with this edgy, rectangular model, and the pieces will just fall into shape.
Begin with Steve’s blockhead. It is important that the 3 flaps on his neck (blue, white, blue) are only folded about 30°, because the white flap will be pushed up later by his spine, and the blue flaps should push the head against that spine. So, if you fold it already to 90°, he will get a stiff neck.
His arm with the sword has tiny red lines in the sword area, they just mean cut or fold, and are only red to be seen better on that messy underground. If you can’t quite see it, you can take the picture as a reference. All pictures are available in a high resolution, you can click on them to see them bigger.
The body and the other arm are very simple.
When you glue him together, begin with the flap on the sword-arm and glue it to the neck, where you see the pink line on the picture. Then attach the 2 blue flaps on his back, like in the second frame. From the side, it should look something like the third frame, now you can try if his head and arm moves when pulling the strap, and adjust if needed. Now glue the other arm to its place.
Step 3: Creeper
His body-part has to be glued like in the first picture and his feet like in the second one.
The body has to be glued on the open flap on top of the feet, like in the last frame.
Now it should move back and forth when pulling the strap coming out of his butt.
Step 4: The Case
Step 5: Assembling
- Glue the figures on the marks on the grass after you pushed their straps through the slits.
- Glue the flaps at the end of the straps to the marks on the lever.
- Fold the front side up and glue the 3 flaps that are marked pink on the picture.
- Glue the thing that is circled with pink to the thing under the thing that is circled pink.
- Glue the last 2 flaps (If you haven’t already)