This is the first charcoal furnace that  I built its purpose melting small amounts of aluminium into ingots or sand castings for small objects. I don't predict a long "shelf life" for my furnace before it will start cracking but I will get a few melts before I scrap it, This is just a prototype and hopefully in the future I will make a bigger and better furnace.
It's easy and quick to make, I will show in this instructable the steps on how to make it using materials some of us have  in our house. The only "big" money might be the refractory materials and characoal.

A few details about my furnace: I made it all 2" thick around including the furnace lid. I used Plywood, MDF, cardboard, chipboard all left overs from other jobs.
The furnace tools I made from a 5mm construction rebar, can of beans and old bathrooms hooks.

In the near future I hope to add to this instructable a few images of my first sand casting.

A few Saftey words: Coming  into contact with fire and boiling melted metal can be very dangerous so always work safe using proper full body protection including respirator mask against toxic fumes and dust from mixing refractory materials. Never melt in a wet area or near water, if water comes in contact with the boiling aluminium it might "blow" in your direction.

Step 1: Furnace construction

A bit of form work: check if you have any scrap plywood, MDF etc'  to hold the refractory furnace shape.
I used scraps of plywood, MDF, chipboard, soft wood, cardboard all screwed  together.
Start with the walls and the base. Optional: making small wooden angles for the corners will make the corners flat  preventing them from breaking.
Drill a hole 2" from the base using a core bit for timber.  The diamater of the hole should fit the size of the pipe you will use for the blower.
I used a cardboard pipe to form the opening for the blow pipe.
Have you found any practical use for molten aluminum ? Do you think that machine parts could be made melting aluminum this way?
I have a lot of ideas for sand casting and I am still pilling my aluminium ingots for the next projects. You can duplicate almost any object you can think of. As far as I know engine pistons are made from aluminium so my guess is they could be used as machine parts but again I am no expert and I am not going to duplicate machine parts in my tiny aluminum furnace ;-)
Pistons are made from aluminum, but certainly not cast aluminum.
<p>The vast majority of pistons are cast as it's much cheaper than specialist alloys used in forged pistons. Cast pistons are generally harder wearing with lower expansion than forged pistons. (but somewhat brittle, they crack or break rather than 'bending'). Hyperutectic pistons are cast at higher temperature with added materials (silicon, etc) </p>
<p>I remember reading about how the Wright brothers made the engine for their planes. The engine was made of cast aluminum but I am not sure about the pistons. Aluminum is still used for engines today. </p>
<p>Check this out!: <a href="http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/lathe1.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/lathe1.html</a></p><p>Building the Gingery style lathe</p>
<p>Yes i think machine parts could be made but don't forget aluminium isn't very strong or durable as far as metals go. I doubt they would last long at all. Honestly you're only limited by your imagination. Im planning on making some throwing axes out of the aluminium that melted of the machines in a fire at our sawmill.</p>
<p>Steel is the best metal for making throwing axes. Some people have made them from used circular saw blades. Aluminum does not hold an edge very well. I recommend that you watch this Youtube channel:</p><p><a href="http://myfordboy.blogspot.com/">http://myfordboy.blogspot.com/</a></p>
Bring a former quality control manager of a machine shop that manufactured airplane parts for Boeing and Cessna in Wichita, ks, i would advise not attempting to form machines posts from aluminum self-made. This metal will not possess the structural integrity necessary for machined parts.
<p>I agree. Stick to craft projects and decorative ideas. Any mechanical device which fails due to a dummy aluminum part is not worth the risk.</p>
<p>Thank you both for your condescending comments but most of us are not in the aeronautical engineering business. Lots of individuals have created lathes and even engines from cast aluminum. </p>
<p>Does a tin can work for a single melt or did you try and do several melts on the one that 'broke'?</p>
<p>You can make your charcoal by simply burning wood in a very low-oxygen environment. In Zambia the charcoal burners pile up wood then cover it in mud and let it burn. You can even make stoves that burn the gas wasted in this process ( low smoke, and your residue is usable charcoal.)</p>
What would you use the ingots for?
smelting the aluminum into ingots makes the metal easy to store for later use, and you can melt them down to cast aluminum objects.
<p>You can smelt aluminium foil. Just take a large square and fold as many times as you can. Then compact it by hitting it with a rubber mallet.</p>
Add something like a piece of 2x4 on the muffin tin, before you start hitting it, this protects the tin, but does deliver the impact.
How do you get the ingots out of the muffin tin? Haha, I have 6 stuck in the tin and I can't get them out.
hammer time...
Broke the muffin tin.
hello,<br><br>i am sure i read somewhere that if the inner refactory mix is not to thick, and then surounded by a layer of sand (allows expansion) or probably ceramic wool, then a further layer of refactory insutation, then a expandable layer (you get the onion ring effect idea) then the refactory layers are allowed to expand and contract without too much stress and therefore cracking. i think some experimentation is needed. <br><br>to hold the solid layers together(at the top), some wire netting, or stainless steel wire in a zig zag fashion around the circumference (binding)between the layers would bind the whole lot together, whilst allowing expansion,<br><br>just food for thought
How many melts did you end up getting out of your refractory mix? How about the second forge that you constructed and posted more recently?
awesome instructable!!<br>only one thing that could remove confusion: add something to the images to compare size, like a pet bottle or so. i thought this thing was tiny, but obviously it's not XD
Great instructable, but I wonder: what will you do with the ingot? will you make it into something useful i.e. a nutcracker :-), or will you just have it lying around? If you make things, you should do an instructable for it.
can you use wood insted of charcoal.
I don't know about Aluminum, but for Iron, wood isn't hot enough. Its easy to make charcoal, though. just heat up wood in a container (maybe a can) over a fire. With the right temperature, the volatile gasses leave the wood without igniting, and the wood blackens, becoming charcoal.
How many nutcrackers do you have??
Can you melt copper with it?
Regular portland cement takes almost a month to cure completely. Refractory cement cures at a considerably shorter time, but let it cure for the time indicated on the package (or at least a week) before you remove the frame. This may prevent the concrete from cracking.<br><br>After 2 or 3 hours from the pouring of the concrete, put a damp cloth over the top of the furnace. Keep it wet the whole time and protect it from wind, wich will dry the concrete. If the concrete dries it'll be a lot weaker.<br><br>Congrats for the great instructable.
Nice instructable, paracord! <br> <br>I'd like to make you notice though, that you are not in the SAFE side! <br>You should operate on a bed of dry sand, not in proximity of a wood house <br>and on a not so dry soil. <br> <br>If the melted metal drops to the soil it will instantaneously &quot;explode&quot; due to contact with moist/water on the soil and it would spray around spliters of melted metal.... mmmhh, I guess you dont want that! <br> <br>I'm sure you have read suggestions and advices in <br>http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/ <br> <br>Be careful. <br> <br>
Thank you for your reply and concern, I was wondering for some time who will win the &quot;jackpot&quot; and ask about the wooden structure on the side or the concrete slab beside the furnace or not having a nice big sand box under my work area, You are the winner. <br>Correct all above should be taken into consideration when working with molten metal. <br>Not that it matters but I work with full body protection so even if aluminium will &quot;explode&quot; no risk to me. <br>This specific MINI furnace I made Poses no danger to the wooden structure being caught on fire, I was working with charcoal (Easy to control) not waste oil (hard to control/on fire). <br>I have my water hose ready and no I won't water the molten metal. <br>Safety First ;-)
very nice instructables! i started making a forge about threedays ago the crucible i made is a 5mm steel oxygen bottle an the forge itself is an old propane bottle( the one i used is about 50cm in diameter)
Hi thanks for your comment, I think you made great crucible I was using beans can for my first few melts and that is a bad idea although I got away making a few ingots befor holes appeared. So 5mm thick steel sounds great. I am in the stage of scraping my furnace and making a proper one with proper refractory using the same old propane gas tank as you are planing to use. Regarding the paint don't worry about all the impurities once you get your high tempature and the aluminum is ready to be poured you just have to remove all the slag with fork or some other great instrument. It would be great if you can post a few images of your crucible/furnace. Thanks again :-)
thanks for the tips! yhea i'll try to post some videos of what i did but it'll take about two weeks but i wont forget! thank again!
ho yeah i forgot. if you put aluminum with paint on it, does the paint burn and desintegrates or does it form slag? thnksfor answering!
i made one similar to this it it gor hot enough to melt salt and glass and even small amounts of steel
FYI, mixing black furnace adhesive/caulking with pearlite (a soil additive) is an EXCELLENT refractory material, not to mention very cheap. I used this inside a large coffee can for a small foundry when I work with larger quantities of silver than my blowtorch/ceramic crucible can handle. After a few partial fires (im big on tempering any refractory material at least 4 times before bring it to full temp) I was able to bring a coffee can foundry to a point I could melt small amounts of copper, which melt. closer to 2000 deg. F. Also, something to mention. NEVER ... EVER ... get molten metal on concrete (like in a driveway/basement/etc, the higher moisture content can cause a violent steam explosion which throws concrete shrapnel everywhere. ALWAYS try to use your foundry on the ground or use something like old drywall (the gypsum it is made from is nearly heat proof) as a &quot;floor&quot; under your melting/pouring location.
what were the dimensions,and how refractory did you use?
&nbsp;Would reinforcing the concrete with rebar or chicken wire possible help with the cracking? How good of an insulator is the concrete? Would Sakrete possible be a better material to make the forge out of than concrete? Its meant to be an insolator. Could it handle the high tempatures? Also, not fully related to this instructable, just a question about firebricks. If you used the insolator firebricks, could you cover them with tiles, like leftover bathroom tiles, because apparently insulating firebrick is very soft, would the tiles be able to take the heat or would they crack?
I'm not an expert regarding aluminium melting but I will try to answer your questions&nbsp;after my little experience with my furnace.<br /> * I do think that chicken wire or small rebars will help against cracking, I didnt use it in my furnace and it cracked.<br /> * I don't think concrete is the best insolator although I got very quick meltings using&nbsp;my furnace. The aluminium was melted in less then 20 mins.<br /> * It cracks under high temperature but you will get a few meltings before the furnace will die.<br /> *My next experiment is exactly what you are asking, I was thinking too that the tiles will take the heat but I have a feeling they will crack. <br /> I will update my instructable if the experiment will work. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br />
Try clay and Iron Oxide mix bake it with a small fire before using the blower and try a melt
Tiles will crack if you get them hot enough. fireplace mortar maybe? Or use some of the homemade refractory recipes on the net. http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com
i made an ingot before but completly out of soda cans. you just need to remove the paint from the melted aluminum with a fork
I was thinking of melting aluminium cans the only thing I read&nbsp;on many sites is that the cans produce a lot of a slag. How many cans do you think I&nbsp; will need to get a few ingots&nbsp; (muffin tray size)?
it takes about two cases of cans witch is 48 cans to get a little over a pound good aluminum. I done foundry work for 15 years of my life. by the way aluminum melt down at 1500 Deg and is pored around 1550 to 1600 Deg depending on the casting being made.
it's really not a big deal if you are just learning and pouring ingots. just remember to scoop the slag off last, not continuously.
this is a good way to melt down a lot of beer and pop cans or hard drive bodies and platers

About This Instructable




Bio: I have too many hobbies and never enough time <(°¿°)> My Metal Casting blog: www.flamingfurnace.com My Paracod projects blog: www.paracord-projects.blogspot.com-
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