Once upon a time I was looking over projects on this site, and I stumbled upon this https://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Skee-Ball-Game/. That is an inspirational read, but it wasn't quite what I wanted to accomplish. I wanted mine to be slightly larger in size, have electronic scoring, and to basically take ideas I've found across the web to make my skee ball machine one-of-a-kind and over-the-top. So, much like the previous skee ball instructable, I am not going to be able walk through each step with meticulous detail. It would be 100 pages long and nobody would ever build it. 

OK you're thinking, what is this instructable going to do for me? Let me tell you! I will give you everything you need to accomplish this project even if you've only done minor woodworking in the past. I am also going to tell you all of the materials used, which is a treasure hunt of it's own. We will go over some of the more complicated steps in detail such as the scoring rings and wiring the electronics. I will give you all the plans I used to build it, all of the parts, and finally I will also give you all of the software needed to make the game work on your PC. When you are finished you will have a fully functional electronic skee ball machine which uses a Flash interface, automatically keeps score, has sound effects, and a siren light turns on for a few seconds at the end of each game.

Let me warn you from the start: this is not easy, cheap, or something you can do in one weekend. It takes endless hours of hard work to make this project. Each step has its challenges, but I'm here to help you through it. To make it easier on my wallet I purchased materials every couple of weeks as needed instead of all at once. 

Finally, what I want is to give you the tools and ideas to make your own table. I encourage you to experiment and to make your own small changes and adjustments along the way. 

Main Materials list (*not a full list):
3 sheets 1/2" plywood 4'x8' (MDF is also an option)
50' Rubber Cove Base (found at Lowes/HD, or online) - this is the material for the rings.
1 roll of Cork 1/8" - 18"x25' (found on ebay. Only need around 10' so you'll have some extra)
wood screws (various sizes)
1 welcome mat 22"x34" - this is really a cheap PVC foam pad - Home Depot
40 rivets 1/2"
40 rivets 1/4"
1x2 wood strips 8 feet long - lost count. Maybe 10 of these
2x2 wood strips 8 feet long - same, I think I used 3 of these
19" monitor
old PC - enough power to run a SWF file without hiccuping
LEDWiz Controller +GP (groovygamegear.com) This is used for scoring, game controls, and future LED lighting.
Red Siren Light (amazon)
1: SPDT relay switch
2: arrow shaped Pushbuttons - your choice of colors
1: rectangular pushbutton
1: round pushbutton for computer off switch
9: 2.5" wooden balls  
7: cherry scoring switches (ebay)
20 gauge wire. At least two colors. One should be black. I went through about 40' of wire total.
Felt (optional for sound dampening)
Wood glue
Frost King weather strips (a few small strips)
50 pack Female quick connectors (optional, you can also solder the connections)
40 1" L shaped Corner Braces  
8 felt covered leveling screws (optional)
1 6-8' Power strip with at least three slots for powering all game parts.
2" black Vinyl numbers  - 100, 100, 50, 40, 30, 20, and 10 (ebay) 

Tools Needed:
Circular Saw/Table Saw (Optional)
Philips Screw Driver
Drill Press (optional)
Soldering Iron 
Heat shrink tubing
Wire Stripper/Cutter
3" hole saw
Rivet Gun
Staple Gun (optional)
Dremmel tool (optional)
Tiny flat-head screwdriver for connecting wires to the LEDWIZ

All said and done this will cost around $5-600 depending on how much of these materials/tools you have laying around. You will have lots of left-over material if rings need to be replaced or if you need some more cork on certain areas. 

Let's start with the hard parts, and go from there. 

Step 1: The Ramp

In my mind, if I could make the ramp the rest would be a piece of cake. Using the attached ramp template, take two pieces of 1/2" plywood scraps and clamp them together. Trace the pattern and cut the pieces using a jigsaw or scroll saw, Take your time, this stage is critical for the game to be playable. Once the shape is cut, sand them to be smooth and even. Next we attach 1x2" cut so that when attached to the inside of the ramp shapes the total width is 18".  Make sure the 1x2s are attached so that they on the curve and not sticking out above it. Next we will attach a sheet of plywood over the ramp. There is a technique we will now learn called kerfing. This helps the plywood to bend. Using a table saw I cut groves into the plywood evey 1/8" or so. Just enough space between the cuts that is about the size of the cut itself. I did this for the length of the curved shape across the plywood. Once kerfed soak the plywood sheet in warm water for at least an hour. It should be bendable but still fairly strong. A helper is nice for this part. Starting at the top of the curve attach the plywood with small wood screws. Start to bend the plywood onto the curve and place screws in every few inches. Work slowly making sure not to crack the plywood. Once fully attached allow the plywood to dry for a day, As a precaution I filled in the kerf slots with homemade MDF. I took some sawdust (if you don't have any you will shortly), and mixed it with wood glue. I removed a few slats at a time and spread the wood glue/saw dust mix inside the groves. This adds strength as the ball will be hitting this ramp thousands of times over the course of many years. Filling the kerfs is optional, but strongly recommended. The final step is testing the ramp once dry. Don't worry about exposed screw heads at this point, but try to get them sunk into the plywood - carefully. This ramp will eventually be covered in cork. Consider this project officially under way - this is really one of the hardest parts of the whole machine. Don't worry, more challenges await.

Side note: there are many alternate techniques for making the ramp. Due to my limited tool set this is how I did it. The previous link that I mentioned in the intro has an alternate method. Use which ever method you think is easier. If it works, it works. 

UPDATE - I do not like my ramp now that I have played it for a bit. The angle is too steep. The ramp would be better if it were more gradual and longer. If the ball hits it while slightly bouncing it reacts like it is hitting a wall. This should be tweaked from my directions and images. Make the ramp slope longer and more shallow!!!

Step 2: Rings and Scoring Area

The exact dimensions for this area is contained in the photos. I marked up the cut sheet of plywood. As you can see I made some on the fly adjustments so that the ring placement was to my liking.

Finding the right materials for the rings is crucial for a realistic table. It turns out that 4" Rubber Cove Base works wonderful. For durability I made mine loop around twice. The beginning of the loop and end of the loop should overlap by about 3/4" where you will rivet them together. Keep adjusting the tightness of the rings and measure the diameter of them. The 100 rings are 3.4" wide, the 50 ring is 4.6", the 40 ring is 5", the 30 ring is 5.8", and the large ring that contains the 40 and 30 ring is 14.8".  The final, large outer shape I didn't measure. I just laid the material out on the plywood and marked the cuts. To cut the base cove I just used a L shaped straight edge and a razor. Cut the base cove in multiple light passes, don't try to cut fully through it in one pass of the blade. Next I used tape to clamp the rings to make sure I measured correctly. Drilled a few holes and riveted the rings closed with two rivets. Sorry for a lack of progress photos but the end result should make the process clear. I placed the rings on the scoring area to make sure everything fits. Before attaching the rings I drilled the 3" holes in the plywood. You can make the holes smooth by sanding them. I also took some felt and stapled it around the holes to further protect the wood balls. Once the rings are the right size and riveted, I took my L shaped corner braces and decided where to place them on the rings to attach them to the table. Mark the spots with a pencil and drill the pilot holes. I attached the one side of the clamp to the ring and riveted it in place, and connect the bottom of the brace to the table. See the photos for seam placement. Once the rings are attached to the table I wanted to add some PVC foam to dampen the sound of the ball hitting the wood. This is where the Welcome Mat comes into play. Using my favorite technique of cutting and taping construction paper, I was able to make templates for all of the areas needing foam. Once I had the construction paper shapes I placed them on the foam, traced them with a pencil, then carefully cut the foam shapes with a razor. I then put glue on the plywood and placed the foam in place. If the foam shapes don't fit perfectly then trim it with the razor before attaching. Had I thought ahead this would probably be a good time to attach the vinyl numbers to the rings. I waited to the end for that step. You now have the ramp and scoring area complete - the rest is a breeze compared to these steps..

Step 3: Front of Machine

Using the measurements taken from the Google sketch-up model, it is time to fire up the Jigsaw. I connected the sides with screws in order to make both side match and only having to make the cuts once. Using a tape measure and a straight edge, I drew cut lines to follow. Again, with the sketch on the wood I made a few changes to the angles and shape. The ramp should be marked along with the top and bottom levels. The rest of the shape is up to you. I used around 45 degree angled cuts, but you can make yours straight or curved. Use the photos and the Google sketch-up model for all measurements needed. All of the 1x2 frame braces are attached by pre-drilling holes from the outside and making countersink holes so that the screw heads are not sticking out. Before painting all of these holes are filled with wood filler and sanded smooth. This step is more photos then words, so make sure to view all the photos and read the notes on them!

Step 4: Back of the Machine

If you have a working front, the back is pretty much more of the same. Unfortunately, I got on a roll while making the back section and finished it off a little too quickly.. I forgot to photograph this stage. The steps are identical to assembling the front. Take you cut plywood pieces that are 30"x8' and screw them together in order to cut matching sides. Lay out the cut lines based on the dimensions in the Google sketch-up file. 

Step 5: The Electronics

Here is where this instructable goes high tech. You can learn what is going on for upcoming projects, or just follow the directions and it will work even if you don't know why. I am also going to give you a glimpse of the future of this project, which is what will make it over-the-top as promised.

Take your LEDWIZ GP+ (make sure this is the model purchased or it will not work). It has 16 inputs and 16 outputs.
Here are the inputs we will be using:
Scoring switches = 100 left, 100 right, 50, 40, 30, 20, 10 (0 gutter area ignored since this is a kid friendly game)
Buttons = up button, select button, down button.
This means we will only be using 10 of the 16 inputs.
Connect your buttons and switches to the following slots on the Ledwiz:


Slot 17 - 100 (Left side) Scoring Switch
Slot 18 - 100 (Right side) Scoring Switch
Slot 19 - 50 Scoring Switch
Slot 20 - 40 Scoring Switch
Slot 21 - 30 Scoring Switch
Slot 22 - 20 Scoring Switch
Slot 23 - 10 Scoring Switch
Slot 24 - Up Arrow Button
Slot 25 - RECT "Select" Button
Slot 26 - Down Arrow Button

Slot 16 - SPDT Relay for Siren Light

Output slots (16 available)
We are only using slot 16 for the SPDT relay. The output slots actually output about 5v of power each. This power us supplied by the PC's molex power cable. You can use the USB power, but it isn't enough for this project.

The exciting future - the reason we are REALLY using the LEDWiz +GP over an iPac to convert the switches to keyboard keys:
we are going to have full control over 14 LED lights. Each scoring hole will have two LED lights under it - one red and one blue. Future games will use this scoring ring lighting as part of the action. I don't have these games programmed yet or the LEDs connected, so this is going to be Phase two coming spring of 2014!

For now we are just monitoring scoring switches and a few buttons. Let's say the 50 scoring switch is activated, this sends a keyboard key to the Flash game which is used to add the score total and also keep track of balls thrown. You need to install JOY2KEY software included. in the next step.

Wiring the SPDT relay is tricky. I took my time and also used heat-shrink tubing. The part that connects to the LEDWiz doesn't matter which pin goes to the neutral and which pin connects to the hot wire, as long as one of the bottom pins connects to each. The top of the relay is pretty much the same. The power cord for the siren light must be examined. Look at the prongs and spot the small end - this is the hot side. The fat prong is the neutral. Somewhere along the cord for the light, cut the wire on the small prong side. Think about it - with this wire cut the light, even if plugged-in, will not light since the wire is cut. This is where the relay comes in. The relay keeps this wire disconnect while in its normal state. Connect each side of the light's hot wire to each pin at the top of the relay (see photo) and make sure the light is unplugged during this step. When the relay is given power by the LEDWix, the top pins create a connection bridge which makes the light turn on. When the relay power is cut the bridge is broken and the light goes off. Look up youtube vids on basic relays for more information.

Step 6: Setting Up the Software

In order for this table to work you will need three vital pieces of software:
Flash Games + Game Select Screen:

LEDWiz Controller
-This monitors the clipboard and sends commands to the controller.

- This takes inputs from the switches to the LEDWiz and converts them into keystrokes. So, lets say the 50 switch is activated, this sends the letter "R" to the PC. The flash program now knows a ball was thrown and how much was scored.
YOU MUST CONFIGURE JOY2KEY OR THE SOFTWARE WILL NOT WORK... Luckily I took care of it and included the profile seen below.
Button 1 - 1
Button 2 - 5
Button 3 - P
Button 4 - G
Button 5 - D
Button 6 - R
Button 7 - F
Button 8 - A
Button 9 - S
Button 10 - Q

Each of these buttons are used in the flash game. If you want to test the software and see what each button does go here:
Key guide:
g (100)
d (100)
r (50)
f (40)
a (30)
s (20)
q (10)
w (0 - miss)
1 (up, controls menu)
5 (open menu, select options and close menu, start new game)
p (down, controls menu)

Here are all of the files needed including:
Flash game, Ledwiz controller, joy2key with profile, the final Google sketch-up file.:

http://johnkalnin.com/skee/games/instructablev2.zip (old)

Download this to your PC and unzip this all to the root level of C: drive. Open the start-up folder and make shortcuts to the SkeeBall-MainController.swf file, the JoyToKey.exe file, and also the Ledwiz87.exe file. I also included FlashPlayer11.exe just in case your computer is missing the SWF player software. This will load all of these files each time your PC starts-up. It will go full screen and hide the cursor on start-up. LEDWiz will listen for commands, and the JoyToKey is ready to convert buttons into keystrokes. Restart and your skeeball game select screen should load up ready to go.

Update 2 -
New files:

Step 7: Finishing It Up

Only a few hundred more steps to go! Just kidding, almost done. At this point you should add your vinyl numbers if you haven't done that already, create a PVC cage for the safety net if you are going to use one, and I also drilled some holes for the hidden speaker just above the monitor area. I just eyeballed the PVC cage using loose measurements. As long as it fits the size isn't an exact science here. The PVC is held together with super glue, but PVC cement is a better solution. Once I cut the PVC and built the cage I took it out back and spray painted it black with some Krylon plastic paint. I bought some nylon netting on ebay, and attached it to the cage with little, black Velcro straps.

Once finished I went around and wood filled any screw holes. If screws were sticking out I would remove it, drill a countersink hole for it, and put it back in. Once filled I sanded the entire machine. I wish I spent more time sanding, as every blemish stands out now that it is painted. Sand sand sand - don't stop until smooth! Then it was masked, primed, and painted with a glossy black oil based paint.

I should mention that I had to make a button to turn the PC on and Off. I just found the cord that connect to the power button on my PC, and sliced in my own pushbutton as described in step 5. This is located at the back of the machine in an easy to reach spot. Push the button once and the PC powes up. Push it again and the PC shuts down. The monitor and PC (and also the siren light) are connected to a powerstrip at the back of the machine. Once the PC is shut down I unplug it which turns off the monitor.

At this point it is time to sit back, crack a beer, and wait for the kids to come running in saying "Can we play it yet?"
It is nice to be able to look at them and finally say, "All finished, have fun!"

Video here:

*More games and multi-player games such as Super Skee, 301 clone 310, Time Bomb, and more...
*Improved UI including a game select screen
*LED controlled lighting for each scoring ring
Coming soon - stay tuned!

<p>February 2017 update: <br>New games are on the horizon. First new game: 310/510/710/910. This is a skee ball version of the dart game &quot;301&quot; where each shot subtracts from your total. 2 player game, you pick the total. A short game of 310, or a long game of 910, or somewhere in between. Up to you! First one to hit exactly zero points wins. 95% completed. New files will be uploaded very soon. Just need to fully test it first.<br>Preview: https://youtu.be/3ushKXJDhV8</p><p>Game #2: RapidFire. One player, fast-paced action game. You have 30 seconds to score as many points as possible. No ball amount, just a time limit. There is a bonus hole that randomly moves around during the game. Hit the bonus hole for big points. Try for a new high score. Planning stage - 5% completed. This shouldn't take me too long to create. We'll see. Coming soon (for real!)</p>
<p>Still a little painting to do, but it's rolling nicely!</p>
<p>Awesome! Nice alt. design. Hope you add the LED stuff from Phase 2 in there. What are you using for your scoring switches? They appear to be optical sensors.</p>
<p>If the balls go through the holes just right they can miss the switch. I have to modify the PVC with a guard or something opposite the switch to ensure the micro switches click.</p>
<p>I use these switches with a long wire, and even they miss registering a hit occasionally. </p>
<p>phase 2?</p>
<p>Writing it up now, but I'd hate to publish it before the games are done. They are close enough to get the new instructable out there. Will probably be published in a day or two, just need to finish writing it up and take the last few photos for it.</p>
<p>YES! I am about to start a virtual pinball and Mame machine. I would like to do this update before starting a new project. THANK YOU for all the WORK!</p>
<p>Good thing I double checked my work. The wiring diagram and descriptions are all wrong in my Phase 2 write-up. I probably should have written it up as I did it, not off the top of my head 6 months later! At least I figured it out before publishing it. I also have a MAME machine sitting gutted in the garage and everything ready to go in the basement. Too many projects, too little time.</p>
<p>This game is about 50% finished, but it is going much faster than coding and designing TimeBomb. Skricket uses the rules from the dart game, but there are no double or triple scores. Each player gets three rolls per round (no time limit), and you try to close out each target number. Once you have a number closed you can score that amount each time you hit that number until your opponent closes it as well. The game ends when you close out all of the numbers and score higher than your opponent, or you both close them all out. A tie is possible. Two player game.</p>
<p>Quick update - I took photos of the LED lights and wiring. I am about to write up the next instructable (Phase 2) finally. The game &quot;TimeBomb&quot; is coming along nicely. I have it working up to level 6 out of 20. I could use some beta testers soon if anyone wants to help me bug hunt the early levels before I officially release it. I will probably publish the instructable before the game is ready, just so that people building this can add the LEDs without having to un-assemble the play area. I attached some photos showing the scoring holes lit all red, all blue, and mixed. Can't wait to add in some animated lighting effects to the other games!</p>
<p>I want to be a beta tester!</p>
<p>I just sent you a friend request on FB. Easier and faster to communicate there. Not stalking you, it was linked to your profile. I am already testing the early stages myself and will be looking for help with this soon. So, the friend request you just got from some weirdo named John is me. :)</p>
<p>Cool! Thanks again. </p>
<p>How did you place your LED's so that the ball would not hit them?</p>
<p>You are jumping ahead but here is a photo that helps show how I did it: hot glue to hold the LEDs in place. Simple, probably a million different ways to do it so feel free to experiment. Also, here is where the lights connect to the LED Wiz:<br>1 - 10 Red<br>2 - 10 Blue<br>3 - 20 Red<br>4 - 20 Blue<br>5 - 30 Red<br>6 - 30 Blue<br>7 - 40 Red<br>8 - 40 Blue<br>9 - 50 Red<br>10 - 50 Blue<br>11 - 100 Left Red<br>12 - 100 Left Blue<br>13 - 100 Right Red<br>14 - 100 Right Blue<br>15 - Buzzer<br>16 - Relay for Siren</p>
<p>Cool, you are adding a buzzer too! Great project! </p><p>Thanks you the info. I am replacing all the plumbing in my house right now, so I don't think I will jump too far ahead...</p>
<p>Good morning Nickels, I finally put the finishing touches on the machine (Plexiglass Ball net frame, Back-sign,side graphics, sanded and sealed balls). Nice to know I will be taking apart again soon :) I loaded the new game and was wondering if anyone else has had their siren light get stuck on? It has happened a few times. Most the time starting a new game resets it, but today I had to reboot the computer. Just wondering if it is my HW. Here is a couple more new pics.</p>
<p>Well yours certainly looks fantastic! Incredible job. The bug with the siren is on me I'm sure. I am playing in the code to make the LEDs work and I guess I am adding more problems. I'll comb the code to see what I messed up. If you notice any pattern or figure out when the light gets stuck let me know - any help troubleshooting is appreciated. The next game &quot;Time bomb&quot; is well under way now, been coding the crap out of it the last couple of days. It is coming along nicely. I'll post if I figure out the siren issue and upload the latest files when they are fixed. D'oh!</p>
<p>for me the light gets stuck on if someone resets the game while the light is on then it will stay on till the next game is over. </p>
<p>OK I added a ton of extra code to turn off the siren:</p><p><a href="http://johnkalnin.com/skee/games/instructablev2.zip" rel="nofollow">http://johnkalnin.com/skee/games/instructablev2.zi...</a></p><p>The sire will go off when you go to select a new game, and also at the start of the game. This should keep the siren from getting stuck. Please let me know if you spot any other bugs. Thanks!</p>
<p>we are excited for the new game! So we can be ready should we buy stuff like LEDs ? Does the new game even use the lights? </p><p>New Years eve will be at our house this year and we are thinking of a skeeball tournament ( to keep from riots breaking out ) thank you for doing the programming it has made the Skeeball game the most popular in our game room!</p>
<p>The LEDs will always be &quot;decoration&quot;, meaning they are used for show and not really essential for any of the games. They will light at various times, and they will be used, but the games will essentially work fine without them. If you do buy LEDs I use 14 of them, 7 red and 7 blue - one color for each scoring hole. Also, please grab the latest software as I just updated Skee Wars last night (bugs removed, minor features added):</p><p><a href="http://johnkalnin.com/skee/games/instructablev2.zip" rel="nofollow">http://johnkalnin.com/skee/games/instructablev2.zi...</a><br><br>I am working on the second part of the instructable and also on the next game, &quot;Time Bomb&quot; as we speak. I have no time frame, but I am doing my best to get them finished ASAP. Good luck and hope your New Year's kicks butt!</p>
<p>Got in done and put into place on Christmas Eve! Wife loves it. Can't thank you enough for putting together this GREAT instructable. Made me look like a champ!</p>
Wow, that looks fantastic! Really sweet. Hey, I just updated Skee Wars cause I found a few bugs with the timer and multiple players. So, grab this I just uploaded it a minute ago:<br>http://www.johnkalnin.com/skee/games/instructablev2.zip<br><br>The timer flashes when it gets down to five seconds now as well. Happy holidays and enjoy! Damn that is awesome.
<p>This the point I can finally say, &quot;I made it!&quot;</p>
<p>Yoda Ball Kicks @$$! Great game! Thanks for building the Skee Wars game!</p>
Skee Wars took me longer to program than it took me to build the machine in the first place! I know it is taking a while, but there is another really good one coming &quot;soon&quot;ish and I have more plans to keep making games for the foreseeable future. Thanks for posting the video! Your ramp looks like it works fantastic. Makes me hate mine even more. hahaha
<p>I am almost finished, but I need your help on the input. The up, <br>select, and down are not working. On your write up, you call out 1 thru 11 <br>(in) and 16 (out), but your diagram calls out 17 thru 27 (in). Which is correct?</p>
<p>OK, I think I mostly figured this out thanks to the attached photo, the sketch is correct but the wording is not. Slots 1-16 are the outputs for controlling lights. The only one you use at the moment is slot 16 for the relay that controls the siren light. The other output slots 1-14 are for the LED lights, and I have a vibration device using slot 15. Above the output slots on the top of the LEDWiz are the input slots numbered 17-32. So, the scoring switches use slots 17-23, the up button should be 24, select 25, and down is slot 26. The rest of the input slots 27-32 are empty. Do your scoring switches work? Thanks for pointing this out and I will update the instructable with the correct directions for wiring the LEDWiz. Looks like your table is in the home stretch - lookin good! Good luck and feel free to ask any more questions.</p>
<p>Thanks for the help. I probe the terminals with a ground to see what function would trigger. Up = 17, Select = 18, and Dwn = 19. My scoring switches are not connected yet.</p><p>Here is the Skee Ball machine I am building for my Wife. It is about 80 percent complete... Only a few more days to go before Christmas... Special thanks to Nickels for posting his plans on Instructables. Sorry my video quality is low. I shot it with my cheap cell phone. <a href="http://youtu.be/X9OWSB6rbEA" rel="nofollow"> </a></p><p><a href="http://youtu.be/X9OWSB6rbEA" rel="nofollow">http://youtu.be/X9OWSB6rbEA</a></p>
<p>You have them connected to the wrong slots. Move them up as a group to 24, 25, and 26 slots. The first slot 17 is for the 100 scoring switch and so on - it is shown in the top sketch on step 5. I bet if you have a game running and hit the up arrow it will score you 100. Great video - love the bg music!</p>
<p>OK. Tonight was the full function test. Wife loves it. She beat me almost every game. She cheated by distracting me during my turn... Plus she has hundreds of games of experience over me. I got some solid 2.25 plastic balls that felt better than the pine 2.5 balls, but the are so heavy that they cause false scoring trigger due to the extra impact to the backboard (Jarring switches). I want to find hardwood 2.5 balls. If anyone knows a link, please post it. I can't thank Nickels enough for the instructable. Big thanks from VillageHaunt.com</p>
Awesome! You can check ebay they have wooden balls at times. Here is where you can get them in any size:<br>http://www.craftparts.com/balls-split-ball-wooden-wood-balls-c-277_279.html<br><br><br>
<p>Hi Nickles...I finally put together a copy of your skee-ball game. I will now pass it along to the guy who does the electronics to finish it off. I had the grandkids here this week &amp; they loved it...even without auto scoring. Thanks for your plans &amp; ideas. We added a gate to control the ball return so it holds 9 balls and changed to 2 1/2&quot; balls. Bill</p>
<p>I'm trying to build a gate on my skeeball machine. Any tips/hints/ideas regarding how you built the gate to hold the balls back? Thanks in advane for your help!</p>
<p>Here is a photo of the gate. Hope it helps. Also used 2 1/4&quot; ball instead of 2 1/2&quot;.</p><p>Let me know if there is anything else I can help with.</p><p>Bill</p>
<p>Thanks for the photos, this looks like it would work for me! How do you control the motor? I looked online and it looks like you can hook it up to an arduino. Is this how you did it, or does the arm just rotate clockwise when power is applied (and the gate opens)?</p>
<p>Millwajc, you can hack a servo tester to open and close the door by pushing a button. The servo tester can be bought off ebay for as low as 3 bucks!</p>
<p>Very sweet - love the customization!!! Wow, that looks great. My only concern is that there is only one button on the front. Do you have up and down buttons somewhere near the front? What are you using in place of cork, is that carpet? Looks cool what ever it is! Also, what did you use for those side bumpers - I need to add them as well? Make sure you get the latest game files that I posted in another thread here. Excellent.</p>
<p>Nickels, Big thanks again for all the help. We have all our electronics now. I formed the ramp out out stainless steel and it has sweet transition. </p>
<p>Looks awesome! The ramp is my biggest grip about mine, the transition is too steep and sometimes the ball bounces enough before it gets to the ramp that it acts like it is hitting a wall. What does the green button do? Putting it on wheels should make the height pretty good for an adult player. I'd love to see how you made the ramp, that is really cool.</p>
<p>The green button will operate the servo to drop 9 balls at the start. It <br> was one of those extra arcade details I wanted. The alley starting <br>height is 1 inch higher than the sketch-up model. The wheels are only <br>temporary, but we did add adjustable feet, so we should be able to gain <br>an inch or two. The ramp is made out of sheet metal and I am using 2.5&quot; <br>balls. I scaled out my ramp patten. Can't wait to get it all done.</p>
<p>You certainly upgraded the guts of the return area! Very cool. I just want you to know some future games require balls to come fast and furious, so I hope you have a way to keep the return open. The one I am working on now uses more than 9 balls in a row during game play and you will certainly not want to push a button because there is a time limit to complete each level. Did you find the base cove plastic for the rings? It is called Flexco TP Rubber Wall Base 4&quot; tall 1/8 gauge with no adhesive. I am back working hard on coding the next game thanks to all of these recent discussion about it.</p>
<p>MORE GAMES! Alright! The servo will have the option to hold open. My ball area is designed to slow the return, so I hope it still works with the super fast future games. If not, I will buy 10 more balls... HA! HA! HA! I found wall base on Craigslist for only 3 bucks a box, but it is grey... I think I will buy it anyway. If it does not work out, maybe I can trade you a steel ramp for your extra Wall Base. Coding is cool. Do you think you will do an instructable on the Flash creation??? That would be sweet!</p>
<p>We worked on the side walls and marked the ramp location. I noticed that the alley seems low for adults. What it your opinion about the alley height during adult play? Thanks for the help.</p>
<p>Alley height is not a big issue for me. I made it for the kids, but it is 80% scale from a real skeeball machine so it isn't much lower than a regular sized one. If I made it taller it would have required more plywood. My design was made to get the most out of the least amount of materials. Sometimes I play on my knees, other times I just bend over a bit. Just add a few inches to the bottom of the table if you want it taller. Here are some measurements of a regular sized table for comparison.</p>
<p>Nickles, my wife LOVES Skee-ball. I tried to buy an old arcade game, but they are hard to find and a little big. Then I looked at the box stores and those are just too cheap! I found your Instructable and thought perfect! So my daughter and I started today 11/23. I ordered the 2.5&quot; wood balls. Cut 3 sheets of MDF using your G-Sketch. NICE WORK! I do have a couple questions for you. 1) Is there any reason your G-Sketch ramp base is less than 8' long? 2) Is there any reason I can't use the 32 port LED-WIZ? 3) Where can I buy the Arrow Buttons? Thanks in advance!</p>
<p>1. I am not sure what you are asking me here? Everything is measured and scaled from dimensions of a real table. The final cuts and dimensions are all based on getting the most out of 3 full sheets of plywood. Feel free to make any adjustments to the plans. </p><p>2. I use the LEDWiz GP+ because it has not only output control for the LEDs, it also has input slots to register hits from the buttons and scoring switches. If you use the 32 Port LEDwiz you will still need something like an iPac controller to get input from the switches. In saving money I tried to get one device to do both the LED control and switch monitoring. The LEDwiz GP+ has 16 output slots and 16 input slots, perfect for this table. I use two LEDS per scoring hole (10, 20, 30 40, 50, 100, 100 x2), a siren, and a buzzer - that is 16 output slots all being used. That is plenty of controlled lighting and effects for the games I am creating.</p><p>3. <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triangle-Low-Profile-Pushbutton-BY-happ-mame-/320458137108" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triangle-Low-Profile-Pushb...</a><br><br>Good luck with your build - let me know if you have any further questions.</p>
<p>We found your skee ball instructions and loved it! We made a few modifications to the outside. We made it to use at our school carnival and it was a huge hit all night! Thanks for the amazing software and instructions!! We are really excited for phase two and more games!</p>

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More by nickels:Doll Doctor - Applying a cast Mini Futuristic Skee Ball (Phase 2) Mini Futuristic Skee Ball (Phase 1) 
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