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Mini-Tablesaw / Router / Shaper for Dremel rotary tool

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Picture of Mini-Tablesaw / Router / Shaper for Dremel rotary tool
Mini - Table Saw / Router / Shaper
for Dremel rotary tool.

Now that the Dremel contest voting is over I guess it's ok to update this instructable. Here is a "supplement" video showing the table saw extension in action. :)
 
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Step 1: Get templates here!

Picture of Get templates here!

I am attaching a PDF that includes the templates I made for this project.  Open the PDF and save it to your computer.

Print out the templates (I suggest using 100 pound card stock for the templates).

MAKE SURE... that you select None in the Page Scaling option when printing!

If you fail to do this the printer will scale the pages to a different size and the templates will not be correct.

Step 2: Material Supply

You will need a Dremel rotary tool (obviously)...

I purchased the 4000-5/36H from Home Depot which has 5 attachments and 36 accessories for $99.00!  This is by far one of the best deals available for the Dremel products.  I highly reccomend it.

Material Supply:
1 - 1x8x4 (I used top choice whitewood board)
1 - 1x2x4 (I used top choice whitewood board)
2 - Optix 8x10 acrylic sheet (.080” thick)
1 bag - 3/4” two hole pipe strap - (sold in bags of 4)
2 - 1/4”x 4-1/2” bolts
1 bag - 1/4” wing nuts - (sold in bags of 4)
1 section - 3/4” foam pipe insulation (sold in 6ft sections)
2 bags - Wood screw - #6 x 1-1/2” - (sold in bags of 10)
1 bag - Wood screw - #4 x 5/8” - (sold in bags of 12)
2 - 2” Spring Clamp

Attachments/Accessories/Tool List:
Dremel Rotary Tool (templates were designed for model 4000 but can be modified to fit any model)
Dremel - Mini Saw Attachment (model 670)
Dremel - Sanding Drum (either model 407 or 470 will work for this application)
5/32” Drill Bit
5/64” Drill Bit
7/64”Drill Bit
1/4” Drill Bit
Phillips screw driver
Elmers glue
Utility knife (or other razor)

Optional Dremel Attachments/Accessories:
(only needed if you plan to build this project *exclusively with a Dremel Rotary Tool)
Dremel - Plunge Router Attachment (model 335-01) “OR” Multi Purpose Cutting Kit (model 565)
Dremel - Circle Cutter and Straight Edge Guide (model 678-01)
Dremel - Brad Point Drill Bit Set (model 631-01)

*Note: the top plate cover screws require a tapered 1/4” counter sink. The Dremel Brad Bits are not tapered and Dremel does not currently make a tapered 1/4” drill bit with a 1/8” shank. This will require the need for an additional drill (preferably drill press) that can handle standard 1/4” drill bits or 1/4” tapered counter sink bits.

Step 3: Cut the wood

Picture of Cut the wood
Step One - Cut the wood to proper length:

I suggest when purchasing the supplies, have the hardware store cut the wood for you. This will save time and assure clean straight cuts.  The following are the cuts you will need to make this table.

1x8x4:
2 - 10” in length (table top and back plate)
2 - 4” in length (left and right side panels)
1 - 8” in length (optional table extension)

1x2x4:
4 - 5-1/2” in length (braces and brackets)
2 - 12” in length (optional extension arms)

Step 4: Table Top and Back Panel

Picture of Table Top and Back Panel
IMG_02.jpg
Step Two - Cutting / Drilling the Table Top and Back Panel:

Once you have all the wood cut to length, print out the templates and look through them. For best results print the templates on 100 pound card stock.

Starting with the Table Top template you will notice a bold boarder, several faded dashed lines, some drill hole placements and a bold dashed line that represents the cutout for the Dremel rotary tool and Mini Saw Attachment.

There is also a faded solid line that represents the pipe strap that will be mounted underneath the Mini Saw Attachment between it’s directional guide and coupling (see Mini Saw Attachment operating instructions).  The faded lines in each template represent items on the opposite side of the viewing perspective (as if the template were transparent).  Cut the template along the boarder and also cut along the dashed line for the Dremel and Mini Saw Attachment.

Select one of the 10” panels (cut from the 1x8x4) to be your table top and lay the template over it.  Secure it with some scotch tape or simply hold it in place while tracing the outline of the Dremel and Mini Saw Attachment (1).  Use a punch, nail, or screw to mark the drill holes. Put an indentation into the wood to help steady the drill bit when you start to drill the holes.

Clamp the panel down and route out the area you traced using a Dremel Plunge Router or Dremel Multi Purpose Cutting Kit (follow the instructions for those tools using appropriate routing techniques) (2).

If you do not own one of these attachments, then use a jig saw or other means of cutting the wood.  The template was designed so the Dremel tool and Mini Saw accessory will fit snug, so continue working the edges until they are just able to slide through the top plate.
Once you are finished routing, drill the holes using the appropriate bits (labeled on the template).  Note that if you are planning to build this project using only Dremel tools and accessories you will need the Dremel Brad Point Drill Bit Set for the 5/32” and 1/4” drill holes / counter sinks.

Here’s a tip - if you don’t have access to a drill press to counter sink the holes, use the 1/4” drill bit to first drill into the wood just enough for the counter sink.  Then finish drilling the hole using the smaller drill bit.

Follow the above instructions for the Back Panel. No routing or cutting is necessary - only drilling.

Step 5: Side Panels

Picture of Side Panels
IMG_04.jpg
Step Three - Side Panels:

The side panels are already the size we need for this project.  However, you will notice on the template there is an optional decorative cut line.  Feel free to use this if you would like to dress up your project a bit.  On the bottom of the side panel page you will find what I call a “contour template”.  This is for the left side panel only.  The right side will need no additional cutting or shaping.

Cut out around the boarder and along the cut line.  Fold along the lines and place the folded template directly over the top of the LEFT side panel (3).  Make sure the side of the template labeled “outside” is on the side you want to be seen (one side of the wood usually looks nicer than the other).  Trace the outline and use the Dremel to shape the wood until the contour matches “close” to that of the line.  DO NOT sand this down too much at this time! For now just get close to the outline and later you can make for a perfect fit.

This contour will brace the body of the Dremel Rotary tool and help hold it in place.  If you own a Dremel or rotary tool other than the model 4000, you will need to shape this area to fit the contour of your Dremel model.  For the whitewood board used in this project a sanding drum will suffice when shaping the contour (4).  If you wish to use a harder wood, you may need to use a different dremel accessory for this step.

Step 6: Brackets and Braces

Picture of Brackets and Braces
IMG_06.jpg
Step Four - Brackets and Braces:

There are two brackets and two braces (for use with rotary tool in vertical position).  The two brackets will clamp the tool in place while the top and bottom braces will simply keep the tool from moving as you apply pressure when routing / shaping a work piece (5).

Follow the same procedure for these four pieces as you did when shaping the rotary tool contour for the left side panel. When drilling the 1/4” holes for the brackets, make sure they align nicely with the 1/4” holes you drilled in the back panel (6).  You may even want to set them in place and mark them using the holes in the back panel.

Remember the rule - measure twice, cut once (in this case drill).  It is recommended to use a drill press for this procedure.  If you do not have access to a drill press, start by using a small drill bit first making sure to get good alignment, then increase the hole in steps until you reach 1/4”.

Step 7: Assembly

Step Five - Assembly:

Once all of the pieces are cut, drilled, and shaped, it’s time to put it together.

Using the #6 x 1-1/2” screws, screw the side panels, top brace and bottom brace to the back panel.  It is a good idea to drill pilot holes to keep from splitting the wood (the 5/64” drill bit should work nicely for this) (7).  Before you can set the Table Top in place you will need to attach the 3/4” pipe strap to the bottom of the Table Top using two #4 x 5/8” screws.  The 5/64” holes have been previously drilled so the center of the strap should line up very nicely over the cut out for the Dremel Mini Saw Attachment (8).

When you turn the Table Top over and try to set it in place, you should notice the strap will not allow the top to sit level.  The edge of the strap overlaps the back panel.  The easiest solution for this is to use a sanding drum to groove out a place on the back panel for the edge of the strap to sit into (9).  Now screw the table top in place and assembly is complete.

Note that if you try and set the Dremel rotary tool and Mini Saw Attachment in place, the Mini Saw Attachment will not sit level with the Table Top (10).  Cut a 2-1/4” section of foam pipe insulation.  Squeeze it together then bend it so it is shaped as if it is smiling at you (11a).  Place it into the cavity of the Mini Table Saw attachment turning it so the folded side is down (11b).  Now when you place the Dremel rotary tool and Mini Saw Attachment
in place you should have to push it down to hold it level with the Table Top.

Now go back and finish the left side panel contour for your rotary tool.  Set the Dremel rotary tool and Mini Saw Attachment in place (the on/off switch should be facing the front of the table saw and facing slightly downward).

Hold the tool in place making sure the Mini Saw Attachment is level with the table and look to see how high the rotary tool sits above the table.  Using a sanding drum, sand down a little of the side panel contour and check it again.  Continue shaping and contouring the side panel until the rotary tool sits just below the surface (12).  You will need to repeat this process for the brackets and braces so the rotary tool is centered when in the vertical position.  Remove just enough of the contoured areas of the brackets and braces to glue in place some foam insulation where the Dremel rotary tool will sit.

Step 8: Acrylic Cover Plates

Picture of Acrylic Cover Plates
IMG_14.jpg
Step Six - Table Saw and Router/Shaper Cover Plates:

When configured as a mini table saw, the cover is used to hold the rotary tool and Mini Saw Attachment in place.  The acrylic sheets are 8”x10” so they will need to be trimmed down to fit the table top.

To do this, simply measure and mark a line at 8 inches and score the acrylic with a utility knife (run the utility knife along a straight edge or ruler) (13).  Move the acrylic to the edge of a table or board and snap it off (14)

Once the acrylic sheets are the correct size, follow the templates to make the covers for the Table Saw and Router / Shaper respectively.

Step 9: Fence for Tablesaw / Router

Picture of Fence for Tablesaw / Router
IMG_16.jpg
Step Seven - Fence for Table Saw / Router:

To make the fence simply follow the same instructions for the Brackets and Braces.  One side of the fence can be used when configured as a router, and the other side can be used when configured as a table saw.

Step 10: Optional - Table Extender and Rulers

Picture of Optional - Table Extender and Rulers
NOTE: This instructable only covers the original table.  There are additional instructions to add an extension and rulers to the table top. 

You will need to download the original PDF on the intro page for the templates and full instructions.

I hope this will give some inspiration for creating some great Dremel craft and hobby projects!
KrystianO1 made it!4 months ago

I'v made one :) really cool thing :) Had to work with what I had so the base needed a 2 inch extension. To accommodate the dremel when mounted veritacly. I've used a jigsaw to cut the pieces... horror. Ended up buying the router mount extension (good offer and with 3 bits included)- there is an instructable on making one yourself. It took me 3 days of when I could work on it, altogether, about 5 hours. With proper tools I can see it done in 1-1,5hr. Now That I have one, I think I might make another. Thank you for a fantastic and useful tool!!!

dremel table (1 of 3).jpgdremel table (2 of 3).jpgdremel table (3 of 3).jpg
mbadavid5 months ago

another question - are the screws that hold the plastic to the top also holding the top to the base?

Nope, if you look at the plans (or the images above, you'll see that there are some extra screws holding the wood together.

mbadavid5 months ago

great instructable. Thank you,

I am in the middle of making it. One question though. Could you cut a slot in the top made for routing and just have one top? Or is there a function to having both tops as separate?

You could have one top, but it is safer to have two, and you can cut smaller pieces with the saw, and use the router on smaller pieces as well. The top will stop pieces from falling into the saw or router. Think of it as a zero clearance insert for a normal table saw.

piper12346 months ago

awesome with a lil of customizing fits for another dremel or even in no dremel similar rotary tools many thanks :D

oh and even the pdf with all specifications ready to do very good one :D

Aythamie6 months ago

Hi,

I finally got a Dremel 4000.
After seeing a video of your project online, I knew I had to make this.
However I see that it was released 4 years ago.
I suppose there have been many mods to it and maybe even a v2?
What are the best mods for this project?

Second, it's really hard in Europe (minus UK) to find wood in imperial size. Not that I've tried but I know I won't find anything.
Does anyone have the plans in metric. There was one comment made 4 years ago but the link isn't working anymore.

Thanks!

clusterflop8 months ago

What the heck are "boarders"?

SpinnerDave10 months ago

Neat design, I have a German Proxxon rotary tool, and drill stand.

Proxxon drill stand is well made, but limited in scope.

I'll try your design with modification for profile of different rotary tool.

Not sure where gargoyle169 is coming from, is he planning to rip lengths of 4x2, or build a kitchen?

Also a bit confused by his use of "widget". I was under the impression a widget was a Windows desktop executable file.

Keep up the good hobbyist designs, thanks.

pgupta3110 months ago

Hi,

Nice work. Plan to make one for me. If I keep the dremel in vertical position as you did for routing and use a 90 degree attachment and 50 mm hss blade and some modification on top ,can it be used for cutting higher depths

Jakonator11 months ago
What's the total cost of this.
kymbrly1 year ago

I made this saw about three week's ago and I love it. The plans were very easy to follow and the saw came together very nicely. It was a lot of fun as well. I don't use it for "real work" just small wood cut's and it is awesome. Thank's sdudley

When that offset angle cutter attachment first came out, I bought three. I am a manufacturing engineer. I wanted to see how much work I could get out of one of these.

Unless you own stock in Dremel, dont bother. The widget you are modifying here does NOT warrant the effort, They burn up after a few hours of real work.

Dremel is a hobbiest, home toy widget.

I solved my problem with a four inch diameter mini table saw from (rhymes with) Slobber Fright. Put some re machined bronze bearings in it and have gotten three years or prototype slicing, gee whiz making, wonder what it, building out of it.

mmiocevich1 year ago

Fantastic article! I am definitely going to make one, but I am wondering whether anyone has the mock up for one in metric? Metric paper rulers would also be really handy as well. The link given before to a person who had put one together in metric no longer works, so I am searching for a new one. Any help?

mcsk8rg1 year ago
HOW DO YOU MAKE SURE THE ROTARY TOOL IS EXACTLY VERTICAL ?
WHAT IF ITS NOT ? THATS A BLUNDER THEN....
AND
DON U FEEL THE NEED TO SLIDE YOUR ROTARY TOOL UP N DOWN ACCORDING TO SITUATION REQUIREMENT ?
sdudley (author)  mcsk8rg1 year ago
In the vertical position it does quite nicely. Mine holds very well. Yes, it moves up and down very easily and has quite a bit of range in height. Is it exactly vertical? Well, I never bothered to square it up, but then again it is only for hobby use and crafting with soft woods and plexiglass that do not require precision cuts and accuracy. If I need precision, I do not use a Dremel.

mfkeough1 year ago
Wow! Great Instructable - the printable TDP is icing on the cake.
vicvelcro2 years ago
I've made two of these. One was a gift and one for myself. I didn't plan ahead on my own unit, my dremel is cordless and the battery makes it too long in the vertical axis when using the router bits and sanding drums. Aside from my own lack of foresight, this thing is fantastic for small work.

Thanks for this one, sdudley.
sdudley (author)  vicvelcro2 years ago
Glad you enjoyed it. Dremel has made so many different rotory tools over the years, it would be a little time consuming to draw templates for each one. When I made the prototype, I simply layed the tool down and traced around it. That's what gave me the idea to create the template. I guess I should have mentioned that in the instructable.

sdudley
I think your contribution was just fine. I don't see how you could be expected to account for all previous, current, or future models of the tool.

The failure to analyze and think ahead was purely mine. I was in such a hurry to get mine completed and begin using it, I just didn't take the time to account for the added battery length for my unit. Easy to fix, when I get around to it. A lengthy unit isn't really anything to complain about...

All in all, it's been quite beneficial. I hope my original comment will help others not make MY mistake.
Hi, great project and i am about to start building it.
I saw your response for metric system dimensions. I want to make the whole project a bit bigger eg 1,5x times the original. What dimensions do i have to change?
Another question is what about using it as a router, how we change the height of the dremel tool while in vertical position?
Thank you for this design. I built it about a year ago and it's worked great. I did manage burn out the saw attachment though. I use it mainly for model making, ripping balsa sheets. I tried some MDF that was a little much for it and the saw attachment fell apart. I bought a new one and will be more carefull...

With my acyllic top I only get about 3mm cutting depth. I can rip 5mm balsa with two passes. I was going to try 1mm carbon fibre sheet but it is a bit pricey. What I did was found a 40mm blade on ebay. With a bit of DIY I managed to fit it in the saw attachment. I had to remove the spring loaded safety cover to make it fit. I can now cut around 6 - 7mm. Remembering to take it easy....
sdudley (author)  SolarPoweredGardener2 years ago
I am glad your enjoying the saw. I use mine quite often to cut 1/4" acylic sheets that are actually 0.22" thick. It barely clears the top of the sheet and if I try to cut something that is 0.24" thick, I need to make a second pass by flipping the piece over.

I had planned to redesign it using the flex shaft and some larger saw blades I found at Harbor Freight Tools: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=rotory+tool+saw+blades

This would omit the need for the saw attachment and give me a little more hieght from the blade. However, I am designing several other tools which use the Dremel as the power source, one of which will be a new table saw, but I have a long way to go before I finish everything.
hovnosmakom2 years ago
Everything went smooth, up to the part with the acrylic top. I don't have a countersink drill bit and the screws always stick from the acrylic, making me furious. Do you have any ideas as to how to do it properly without the countersink bits?
sdudley (author)  hovnosmakom2 years ago
You will need to countersink the holes in order to get them flat with the surface of the top. I don't have a countersink bit either, but what I do is use a larger drill bit that is about the size of the screw head. If you try this, be VERY careful not to drill all the way through and make the hole too large for the screw. You will definitely want some type of drill press with a stop on it to prevent you from drilling too far.

One thing I want to do, is get rid of the acrylic top and use a thin piece of aluminum or stainless steel sheet instead. I have not done so yet, but I think it would work much better. You just need the proper tools to work with that type of material which I don't have.

Stacy
Bradinsc2 years ago
Just finished making two of these mini saws. They work very well, I was really pleased with the plans! Made making the tables a real breeze. I did a few small modifications, I made the tops out of Lexan, and added the same on the extension tables. I also mounted the extension table permanently to the extension arms, so all I need to do is remove the bolts on the table and swing the extension around to use it on the other side, eliminating the need for clamping it down, works well! Added a pic of them, one matches my Model RR setup, the other matches my dads, he will be getting this a new Dremel 4000 for Christmas! Thanks so much for the plans! I really enjoyed building them.
Mini Tables Saws complete.jpg
sdudley (author)  Bradinsc2 years ago
Awesome! It's always nice to see modifications people add or change to make projects better. I like the way you made the swing arm for the extension table.

I am currently in the process of designing a modular bench for all my Dremel tools and accessories. It is a 2'x2' cube that expands to 6' long x 2' deep with an interchangeable center work area. I plan to use it as a tablesaw, router, drill press (using the Dremel work station), small manual milling machine, and a few other things that come to mind.

I am drawing it up in Google Sketchup, and started putting together the basic structure this past weekend. I still have a LONG way to go and many modifications before I think about making it an Instructable though!

If you have any suggestions, I am open to any thoughts.

Stacy

nduetime3 years ago
Great job!
Any thoughts about making a drill press/router table unit?
I do have the Dremel brand Work Station, I think that is what you are talking about. It works as a drill press and also holds the Dremel horizontally as well for sanding. It does a great job! Has a hook to hold the Dremel by the bale to use the flex wand as well. I clamp mine down with toggle clamps and use it quite a bit. I have a big floor model drill press, but its too much machine for small jobs. I got mine on Amazon for about $40 I think.
sdudley (author)  nduetime2 years ago
Yes that is something I have thought about quite often but I already own a separate table top drill press so it's low on the list of projects.

Stacy
Bradinsc2 years ago
I got (2) Dremel 4000s from Amazon, and went to Lowes the other day and got all the parts to build two of these along with the extension tables. One is for me and one is for my dad for Christmas. We both do model RRing and I think this will be a great tool for working on the buildings etc. Thanks for the plans! I will post when I am done. Also another tip, When I was shopping my list at Lowes, I found for a few $ more I could get pre-cut 8x10 sheets of Lexan for the tops. Pretty much bullet proof and worth the extra $ for the wear and tear I am sure the top will sustain! It was about $3.50 per piece. Worth it in my book.
sdudley (author)  Bradinsc2 years ago
Sounds great! I was also thinking of using an aluminum plate instead of plexiglass or Lexan, but haven't bothered taking the time to do it.

Enjoy!

Stacy
I will let you know how it works! Thought I would be able to see the rulers through the Lexan. :) Thanks for the plans!
Has anyone used the dremel brand router table, #231? Is it a sturdy piece?
Truly awesome design. Thanks for giving me some inspiration to get back into the garage and make something.
dmanmoka3 years ago
Really good plans and design! love it.
I will post pictures along the way :)
I will be making one of these from my triton mini drill! I have a question not related to the Mini-Tablesaw but your video. Did you use iMovie? And if so how did you manage to slow down the titles in your 'Star Wars' exiting credits? My shoot past like there's no tomorrow - otherwise I may have to get a more professional video editing suite. Sorry this isn't a question about your build, but in that you've covered everything!
davidneth3 years ago
Good plans and design, I built this in a day, and enjoyed using it!
CNYAP3 years ago
Did you make sure the Dremel bit is "perfectly" (or close enough) to perpendicular to the table? I figure a long rod and a square would be the way to check squareness.
Also, instead of mounting the Dremal horizontally, maybe the Dremal right-angle attachment would work? Would need a second hole in the table or course. Maybe this method would allow the tool to stay below the table while at the same time keeping the bit perpendicular or parallel to the table.
elbardalet3 years ago
Excellent instructable. Thanks.
Just a tip for next time you will saw an acrylic sheet. Cover all the line where you are going to cut with box sealing tape. The box sealing tape will work like lubricant.
sdudley (author)  elbardalet3 years ago
Thanks for the information. I usually find that masking tape works well, but will definitely give the sealing tape a try. I assume you mean the clear tape correct?
Yes, it works perfect with clear or brown. Next time I will try also with masking, to check which one works better.
Again thanks for you excellent ideas.
hms10183 years ago
BRAVO! You are sweet with this project. TTYL gotta go make me one now!!!
Geosync3 years ago
5 stars! Amazing concept, design and construction. Thank you for posting. The video is also top-notch. What do you use for editing? And are you using some custom music, too? Excellent all-around production!
sdudley (author)  Geosync3 years ago
Well thank you for the kind comments. I use an old version of Adobe premiere elements. It's a great video editing software if you are on a budget.

I also use Sonicfire Pro by SmartSound for the music. It's kind of expensive but you pay once for the music and you can use it anytime and as much as you like. You can also remix each song many different ways to fit many different moods. It's a great production tool for any amateur (or professional) videographer.

imajem3 years ago
Hi...I've tried three times to download your templates but the message is that the content is damaged and can't be repaired.
I would so like to build this table. Could the link be fixed or could you send me the templates in an email. Thanks
sdudley (author)  imajem3 years ago
I am at work and just tried it. It works fine for me. Do you have Adobe acrobat reader on your computer? If you still need it, send an email to sd7560@yahoo.com and I'll send you the PDF directly.
Sfcatlvr2243 years ago
Omg ive been trying dozens of techniques and soo many dremel bits wasted, just to cut a clean line in my plexiglass. But it never feels, or looks good enough. I found this instructable and instantly ran to my local hardware store. I'm currently making it now. Just stopped to look at more pics. So I can get it right. These templates and list of supplies are amazing man. And I actually spent that exact amount,crazy. Less then 20 bucks. (to make). Thanks for the instructable .... I'll post pics when complete.
sdudley (author)  Sfcatlvr2243 years ago
Great, can't wait to see it. I still use mine all the time and it has come in quite handy for several small projects where a big table saw is too much.

rclotworthy3 years ago
Hi you have listed the timber used as 8 x 4 and 2 x 4 is that 8inch x 4 inch but it looks smaller than that to me. I live in the uk so you might list your timber sizes differently. If possible could you convert these timber sizes to metric for us brits
Thanks
Rosko1964
sdudley (author)  rclotworthy3 years ago
Scroll down through the comments and you will find this question has been answered (including conversion to metric).

I believe it is on page two of these comments (between 41 - 80) so you will need to click the "next" button.

Let me know if that helps.
wilb4 years ago
Thanks. That certainly sounds easier than what I was proposing.

sdudley (author)  wilb4 years ago
Here are a few pictures mounted to my bench vice (hope it helps):

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markgtz sdudley3 years ago
sdudley,

I'm making mine today for a Black and Decker RTX. I'll post some pictures when I'm done with it!

Great tutorial! Thanks!
markgtz markgtz3 years ago
sdudley, I got my Black & Decker RTX today from Amazon, and yesterday I bought all the material so that I could start as soon as I got it today. Well, needless to say I got it kinda late but this is what I did. I should be able to finish it tomorrow. There are a few differences. The top is very contour for easier holding, so I had to sand it to that specific shape.


topview_sm.jpgtable_top_sm.jpgside_view_sm.jpg
sdudley (author)  markgtz3 years ago
Dude that looks great! I hope you find it as useful as I do. I still use mine all the time.

Enjoy
wilb4 years ago
First, excellent instructable plus docs.

One thing I guess I have missed,when the Dremel is in the vertical position, what provision is made to attach it to a table-since the Dremel extends below the sides? Do I just add length to the sides and back and put a 1X2 along the bottom edge of the sides to either bolt/screw or clamp it to bench? (Seems reasonable)

I tried to see how you had connected yours but I didn't a clear enough photo to tell.

Again excellent instructable with both video and pdf docs.

sdudley (author)  wilb4 years ago
I use a standard 4" bench vice. Mine is mounted on the corner of my bench and the mini-table saw/router is designed to be clamped in the vice by the back plate.

In the second of the two imbedded videos on this page, you can see the vice is at the edge of the bench and the mini-table saw/router is some what off the edge of the bench.

I realize that is a poor explanation so I will try and get you a picture when I have time this weekend.
j8g8j4 years ago
This is a great idea!

I have not been a big fan of rotary tools. (Bad experience with my first: a RotoZip tool... too damn noisy and hard to control, not to mention the dust!) But, I recently decided to try again and bought a Dremel tool. I like it much more than the RotoZip and I love this idea of a versatile and small form factor table-tool that I can use on small pieces of wood where a table saw or table router is overkill and sometimes just too powerful to use safely. I'd like to see how the flex cable-based setup that TheGeekFather puts together since I was thinking of buying one of those for my Dremel tool anyway.
fanatimovi4 years ago
your amazing, thanks for the instructable.
I have a black and decker "Wizard" rotary tool. I also have a flex shaft attachment for it. I think I'll have a go at making a similar work station.What I like about the flex shaft is that it is smaller. And I'm thinking I can make One clamping system that moves WITH the flex shaft from each station. That way there will be no need for the intricate sanding and adjusting needed to seat the tool in the different positions.

Great Project 5 stars from me. I hardly ever rate 5 but when something is this well thought out, usefull AND inspires me to run out and start one I give 5.
sdudley (author)  TheGeekFather4 years ago
Thank you very much for the kind comments. I like your idea. Please do keep us posted as to the results.

My original intention was to design this table using the flex shaft. If you make an instructable out of your design, I might just have to run out and buy one!

brunder4 years ago
Hey,I want to ask can I use this blades saw's http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/6Pc-Mini-HSS-Circular-Saw-Disc-Blades-Hobby-Drills-/170608188163?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item27b90a5b03
with this table?Can someon tell me?
sdudley (author)  brunder4 years ago
Unfortunately these will not work for this table design.  I purchased these and had intended to use them when I originally designed the table.

You would need to add some kind of extention to the mandrel (part that the blades screw on to).  The reason the Dremel mini-tablesaw attachment works is because it is angled and the rotary tool doesn't get in the way.

I am not sure that makes a lot of sense.  I can take some pictures that might help explain it better if you want.

brunder sdudley4 years ago
IT will be bether to take picture :)
sdudley (author)  brunder4 years ago

Basically the blades you want to use will not allow the Dremel to cut flat surfaces that extend beyond the length of the madrel. 

The pictures below should explain this quite well.
Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
By sdudley1 at 2011-04-03 Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
By sdudley1 at 2011-04-03 Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
By sdudley1 at 2011-04-03 Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
By sdudley1 at 2011-04-03
Stacy

 

How about using the mouth of the flexi shaft restrained in the table for all mandrel based accessories?
sdudley (author)  ghemmady4 years ago
I would love to see how that would work. Unfortunatley I have not yet purchased a flex shaft so I never got to see how well it would work with this table.

Let me know if you ever get to experiment with it.
Mine is not a dremel. Though available these days in India its expensive and nobody really stocks it. A bit of a pain to actually order it and Bosch doesn't help at all.

Mine is a woolworth, cost a quarter of what dremels do with masses of accessories and a flexible shaft. No attachments like the saw or right angle or cutting guides of course, at least not available here.

The only two times I needed to use it as a table saw (with HSS saw blades on a mandrel) I just mounted the shaft it in my vice with adequate protection and lowered a thin surface with a slot held in position with all manner of clamps and supports. Another crude piece of smooth straight wood, clamped acted as the adjustable fence. Worked very well as a temporary set up but seriously ghastly looking. Just required the set up to cut some 10 quarter inch boards fairly straight against a fence.

All this was about a year ago and I didn't know of this site, but will surely photograph and share my next temporary mounting if I ever get around to doing it.

I plan to build a more formal table like you have and some really lovely things that this site describes as soon as I find a "formal" work place.

I can only thank all you guys for the lovely ideas and support that this site offers and have decided that in time I will also begin to share some of my efforts.

Thanks again.
May be all this will only happen after I retire!
sdudley (author)  ghemmady4 years ago
When I retire I will NEVER be bored, that's for sure.  Unfortunately I doubt I will have the money to support all my expensive hobbies!

I made my tablesaw so I could have a combo router / tablesaw.  I still plan to adapt it to fit a mini-disc sander using the right angle attachment )someday). 

Here is a link to something that might give you a more simple solution if you want a more permanent setup but still quick and easy (see image at the bottom of the post):

http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/75w_newrings.htm

Maybe it will spark a few more ideas for you.  I am sure you can make the table any size you wish if you can figure a way to incorporate the flex shaft.

Good luck and please do share any ideas you might have!  Enjoy.

mini-tablesaw.jpg
Thanks, Very much like what I did. The photos I have taken now are a rig just to show what I had done. The shaft is in a vice and a surface is positioned and held where I need it. I hope to make a thin largish table and fix the shaft firmly underneath with a slot shaped to take a variety of accessories. With apologies for the fuzzy pics...
rig2.jpgrig1.jpg
lab76544 years ago
I'm almost complete with this project. I'm only able to work on it on the weekend, since most of my woodworking tools are at my 2nd home in northern Wisconsin. Will post pics when i get the acrylic on!
sdudley (author)  lab76544 years ago
I know it's a late reply but did you ever get finished?  I am curious to know if anyone has made anything useful with theirs.   I use mine all the time. 
lab7654 sdudley4 years ago
Sorry for my reply, but yeah, i got it finished. I haven't used it yet, but i need a small, stationary saw to cut some pieces of wood for a model cabin i am building, and this will work great!
sdudley (author)  lab76544 years ago
Glad it's coming along. I use mine all the time.

Good luck with the cabin!
metallikunt4 years ago
I purchased a Dremel 4000 6/50 (also purchased the Mini Saw attachment) from Amazon.com just so I can do this project. I really can't wait. It'll be so much easier to do things with this.

Great 'ible and excellent write up :D
sdudley (author)  metallikunt4 years ago
So how did it go, any luck?

PS> sorry for the delay in reply.
TheGoodLife4 years ago
In the photo above, the sanding drum appears to be at a right-angle to the drill.

How is this achieved?
Sorry, I have only just started cutting things out.

I looked at the first page of the instructable and now see the second clamping position.

By the way, excellent instructable. I have many tasks stacked up and ready for this tool.
fariedh4 years ago
very good and i liked so much...
Evox_Rider4 years ago
Excellent instructable! Next project...radial arm saw with Dremel!
Evox_Rider4 years ago
Absolutely excellent instructible! Now have to get to work on making a mini radial arm saw with the Dremel!

Look forward to seeing more 'ibles!
kathyh2394 years ago
Do you sell these?
Cobalt594 years ago
Is it possible to get a bigger blade and attach that to the dremel?
Cobalt594 years ago
This is a VERY good instructable. Could you consider making more dremel related instructables? Thanks.
ShaunHill4 years ago
Hello there, this is a good instructable. I wonder if there are plans for the dimensions/shape of a Dremel 400 tool? I would very much like to make something similar to this.

Anyone?
sdudley (author)  ShaunHill4 years ago
Read down through the comments and you will find this question has already been answered. Thanks.
Hello there, thank you for your response. Unfortunately, I cannot find the response you are referring to. I searched through all the paged for "400" and scanned all the pages (I did read through before posting originally).
sdudley (author)  ShaunHill4 years ago

Below is part of  the response to one of the earlier questions I answered about using a rotary tool other than the Dremel 4000. 

"Before cutting the dotted lines on the template, anyone without a 4000 should lay their tool on the template and trace it, then use that as the cut line. In all honesty, that is all I did to create the templates in the first place. The 4000 just so happens to be the tool I traced."

Keep in mind that the templates only have a "general" cutout area.  Even for the Dremel 4000 I had to do some extra shaping/sanding to get a nice snug fit, but for me that was part of the fun of this project.  It's meant to be a little wood working project that you can make using your own rotary tool.

You'll see in the video that I spent some time working with the wood after the cuts were made so I could get it to fit the way I wanted.
 

crusso4 years ago
Great, great project!!!!
I don't have a dremmel tool but I want to.
In the video I see you use it like a jigsaw. How it works for this kind of jigsaw jobs?
Thank you and congratulations for this great project!
sdudley (author)  crusso4 years ago
I assume when you say jigsaw you mean when I am routing out the tabletop and side panles.

A jigsaw would be much more effecient. I only used the Dremel because I wanted to demonstrate how useful the Dremel can be if you get creative with it.
puntix4 years ago
hello , can i ask you something?
these plains for router table match only this dremel model or and how old model (i have a previous model)
sdudley (author)  puntix4 years ago
Sorry for the late reply.

This question has already been asked. If you read down the page through the comments you will see my reply.
gserrano7014 years ago
Fantastic, opens up for many more ideas.
rahmansaid4 years ago
what are the dimensions for 1x8x4, and 1x2x4. I got confused when I saw the different lengths for each piece. Sorry, I'm from Singapore and we may have a different standards system

sdudley (author)  rahmansaid4 years ago

No problem. 

For the 1x8x4 (1 inch thick x 8 inches wide x 4 feet long)

You will need two 10 inch pieces (approximately 25.5 cm) for the top and back.  So these will be 10 inches long x 8 inches wide.

You will need two - 4 inch pieces (approximately 10.2 cm) for the sides.

You will need one - 8 inch piece (approximately 22.3 cm) if you want to add the table extension later on.


For the 1x2x4 (1 inch thick x 2 inches wide x 4 feet long)

You will need four - 5.5 inch pieces (approximately 25.5 cm) for the brackets/braces that hold the rotory tool in place.

You will need two - 12 inch pieces (approximately 30.5 cm) if you want to add the table extension.

One thing you should know:

I am not sure how wood is cut and measured by manufactures around the world, but in the U.S. A. the dimensions are "nominal" not "actual".

So the 1x8x4 is ACTUALLY 3/4 inch thick (0.75 inch) x 7-1/4 inches wide (7.25 inches) x 4 feet long (48 inches).

The 1x2x4 is ACTUALLY 3/4 inch thick (0.75 inch) x 1-1/2 inches wide (1.5 inches) x 4 feet long (48 inches).

I don't know why the wood manufactures do this but that's how it is, so...

If you look at the "templates" I made you will see the dimensions are 7-1/8 inches wide.  I did this because when I got the wood home from the store I measured it and that is what it actually was.  I purchased another piece later for another project and it measured 7-1/4 inches.

I hope that doesn't confuse you more than you already were.  Just remember that this does not have to be perfect.  As long as you are close to the dimensions I have listed you should be fine!

 

If I am aloud here I will drop my 2 cents on the subject.
The lumber sizes or sheet thickness 3/4 and 2x4 is just a nominal reference only by the manufacturers. 3/4 can be 18.4mm or 18.2mm depending on the manufacturer. Do not take this numbers literally. Planned 2x4 lumber is approximately 95x45mm instead of 50.8x101.6mm, if you need that then you have to buy un-planned lumber (is cheaper) and run it through your planner and jointer yourself. Why is this so... well the milling machines are designed and manufactured in metric system which does not translates itself in the imperial system in round figures. Plus cheating a bit on the thickness, in the long run, it’s allot of money for them to profit from. But this is not very critical unless you have an exact XYZ measurement that you need to follow.
So to accurately follow a plan in imperial system or XYZ measurement, you have to measure only ones i.e. the base of the project and from there on you mark your cuts not by measuring but by marking from the actual pieces your going to use. You can read a bit on this subject if you Google for woodworking “story stick”. So it’s measure ones and then use the marking technique to complete your project.
Hope that helps a bit to the question.
Thanks. Our boards are 3/4in. thick here. So that's a relief or else I'd have to adjust your templates.

sdudley (author)  rahmansaid4 years ago
Great!

5 Gs from me...

Great project
Great design
Great Construction
Great Instructable
Great presentation.

Thank you.
Wow..

Thank you very much for the kind comments!

:)
njmalhq4 years ago
Of course its a disease :) . It's called Make-anitus.
samihg4 years ago
I also suggest that anyone having Dremel vice can adapt this wonderful table to make use of fixing Dremel set horizontaly. Samih
gomibakou4 years ago
Are the pdf with plans ok? I tried to download several times but it always reports an error (File damaged or corrupted).

I'm impatient to get my hands over it :D looks really interesting
sdudley (author)  gomibakou4 years ago
I just tried it and everything is fine.

Are you trying to open the PDF from Instructables or the PDF that I uploaded?  The PDF I uploaded is on the intro page just above the comments section and just below the image showing the printer properties (it is an 8 MB file).

If you left click on the PDF I uploaded, it should automatically open in your internet browser provided you have Adobe Acrobat Reader installed on your computer.  If you already have Adobe Reader, you may need to update it (it's free).

Below is a link if you need it:

http://get.adobe.com/reader/

Other than that I am not sure why it doesn't work for you but here is another direct link to open the file:

http://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FTH/ZT0M/GH8AB6QZ/FTHZT0MGH8AB6QZ.pdf

Hope it works! 
lab76544 years ago
Hey, as for the acrylic sheets, do you have any idea where to buy them?
sdudley (author)  lab76544 years ago
I buy them at Lowes hardware store.

Both Lowes and Home Depot sell plexiglass (acrylic) from Optix and Lexicon.

They both sell several different sizes and thicknesses. For the tablesaw project I used Optix 8"x10" acrylic sheet (.080” thick). It cost less than $2.00 per sheet.

In the second video the acrylic sheet I am cutting is an Optix 18"x24" acrylic sheet (.022" thick) and it costs less than $20.00 per sheet.
jomac_uk4 years ago
EXCELLENT...now this IS what i call an instructable!!
Whilst i dont have a Dremel, mine is a different make, im pretty sure it can be adapted for different hand held hobby drills?
sdudley (author)  jomac_uk4 years ago
This should work for just about any rotary tool however there are a few things that should be noted:

1) The table saw template was designed to work specifically for the DREMEL mini saw attachment (model 670) because it has a flat side that sits nicely under the cover plate. So, make sure your tool is compatible with this DREMEL attachment before hacking up the table top.

2) The basic router / shaper design WILL work for any tool but you will need to shape the contours where the tool is clamped (bracket) as well as the top and bottom braces for your specific tool.

3) When in the vertical position (router / shaper), the middle bracket (clamp) as well as the top and bottom braces may need to be repositioned to fit your specific tool. Again, the templates are designed for the DREMEL 4000 which I realize is considerably bigger than older DREMEL models and other makes of rotary tools. You will want to position the clamp so it doesn't cover the on / off switch.

I am guessing you are well aware of everything I just told you, but I just wanted to through in a "disclamer"! :)
Well i think you have done pretty much most of the hard work for us, the plans themselves are the basic concept, anyone who can make this, im pretty confident could adapt this to fit their drill, it wouldnt be a bad idea, if you did a set of plans, but without the cut outs for the dremel, so thers could adapt easily without being confused with the dremel specific cut outs, would this be possible?
sdudley (author)  jomac_uk4 years ago
Sorry for the delayed reply.

All of the cutouts in the templates are only close outlines of the tool and most of the work is done when shaping the contours, so yes, this should be easy enough to adapt to any other rotary tool. The key is that the braces and brackets will need to be placed higher or lower on the back panel depending on the tool in question (when in the vertical position). I designed the templates around the 4000 so the bracket will not get in the way of the on/off switch or speed control. The 4000 is relatively larger than previous Dremel models and probably bigger than most other brands as well, so this will definitely be something to consider when using these templates.

However, the cutouts for the top are designed specifically for the Dremel Mini-Saw-Attachment. If someone has a tool that is not compatible with this attachment then I really don't have a suggestion for the tablesaw portion of this project.

I looked into several different options when designing this and believe there are better ways to make a tablesaw out of a rotary tool, but it would be a totally different design than what I came up with. I did it this way because I already owned the attachment.

So, to answer your question in short...

Before cutting the dotted lines on the template, anyone without a 4000 should lay their tool on the template and trace it, then use that as the cut line. In all honesty, that is all I did to create the templates in the first place. The 4000 just so happens to be the tool I traced. :)
CementTruck4 years ago
Congratulations! First Prize!
sdudley (author)  CementTruck4 years ago
WooHoo!

I guess I can consider this a Christmas present from Instructables. :)
1st prize on your first 'ible. Keep it up.

Merry Christmas!
sdudley (author)  CementTruck4 years ago
I'm currently working on my second but I am affraid it isn't turning out so well. :(
rrowsome4 years ago
That is so cool, you are the man!
raulluna774 years ago
Thank you
lab76544 years ago
I love it! i was going to try to design one of these myself! Only trouble is i can't download templates, since im not pro :(
sdudley (author)  lab76544 years ago
Yes you can.

The templates I uploaded are separate files from the PDF files that are created by Instructables.

Simply left click on the PDF file that I labled
"Dremel_TablesawRouterShaper_plans.pdf"
and it will open up in your browser, or right click on it and choose the
"Save Target As..."
and save it to your computer, then open it up. 

This will require that you have Adobe Reader on your computer which you can download free from the Adobe website here.

sdudley
lab7654 sdudley4 years ago
I did it, and thanks! This is absolutely brilliant... the only thing i have to modify is the table top, since i have my dad's old single speed MultiPro. still works like a charm though :)

Here is my version, adapted to metric system and made from 14mm plywood.

Download - http://uploading.com/files/1d4d41c6/table.zip/

There are PDF files for direct print (print without scale to fit), DXF file if you want to change anything and 3D views to help putting it all together.

Once again, thank you sdudley for this amazing table.


Best regards,
Carlos Jorge
sdudley (author)  ZaitsevScope4 years ago

Awesome, I am really excited to see it.

Unfortunately I am at work and I cannot download zip files to this computer (virus protection, etc.). I will have to wait until I get home.

The DXF files are cool. Now you can pump them out on the CNC. :)
I didn't remember that, for those who have a CNC machine large enought, they can cut the DXF directly. I just recommend them to confirm the measures for their rotary tool.

You are free to change the drawings as you like and need.
Good work man!
bnbentley4 years ago
Stacy, Man I love this Video you are the man when it comes to making up cool projects! Love it. Good Job!
sdudley (author)  bnbentley4 years ago
There were several times during this project I thought about calling you for advice, being the MacGyver you are and all.

I will be adding a follow up video (short) in the next day or two. I want to wait until the voting for the Dremel contest is over before I update the instructable.

Stay tuned....
tm60684 years ago
sdudley actually works for me, and despite him screwing around during work with this, I believe it's a winner, and voted for him!! Very innovative.
RTChoke4 years ago
Nice work! but I have one suggestion on technique in the vid -- when you are doing the edge routing, have the workpiece between the fence and the bit can lead to some serious kickback on the workpiece. Might not be such an issue with a little Dremel as it does not have that much torque, but if you try that with a big router -- well, don't try that with a big router. Put the bit up next to the fence and run your workpiece along the fence, which will also keep the cut uniform as it can not go into the workpiece any further than the bit is from the fence.

Safety!

I was thinking too, a set of files to run these parts out on the CNC machine...
sdudley (author)  RTChoke4 years ago
Ok you busted me! I'm not really experienced with wood working tools. In my defense however, I did know that is not good practice and I don't ever recall seeing anyone use a router that way (for reasons which you pointed out).

I was just experimenting with different things while running the video and I just went with it. I was hoping people would not notice my flaws, but it is nice to know people are paying attention!

Interestingly I mention in the plans to follow proper safety proceedures for tablesaws and routers - then I turn around and give a bad example!

Thanks for the saftey tip.

Files for a CNC machine?
RTChoke sdudley4 years ago
Good judgment comes from experience, experience comes from bad judgment. I have some good experience! And good judgment now!

If you (or I suppose I, or anyone else) were to commit these plans to electronic format using a CAD program, it would be easy to bang out a fairly precise set of parts (at least the ones that involve various cuts) using a CNC machine, but that might be overkill.
I don't know if there's enough precision in the exisitng plans to do CNC. From the video, it's more of a rough guideline that you then shape to fit your handpiece. Now, if you could take the proper measurements to get the profiles right, you could produce a great set, at least for one model of dremel.

What I'd love to see in a future iteration of this design is tips for getting the pieces properly squared to the relevant directions, particularly in "table saw" mode.
sdudley (author)  abrannan4 years ago
This is correct, the templates are only guidelines for a rough cut. The user needs to "finish" the project.

As far as using a CNC to pump a bunch out as kits, this might not be a bad idea. With a little thought, imagination, and a few modifications, I am sure you could sell these as a neat little wood project kits.

Hmmm....
RTChoke RTChoke4 years ago
Looks like you might have used something to generate the pdf plans, those could be used to make dxf files that could be used to generate gcode for the CNC machine
jhsim4 years ago
Sheer GENIUS!!! I'm making the tablesaw now and was wondering how you made the slit in the acrylic for the blade....
sdudley (author)  jhsim4 years ago
I drilled a hole in the plastic big enough to fit the spiral cutting bit. Then, with the Dremel in the vertical position, I used the spiral cutting bit as a scroll saw and simply cut a straight line.

The spiral cutting bit makes the line a perfect width for the saw blade to have a little excess on either side.

Hope this helps.
jefersonrod4 years ago
Nice, great job.
The photo :)
SDC12749.JPG
sdudley (author)  ZaitsevScope4 years ago
Hey that's awesome!

I am glad the plans are working out so far. It's a shame you cut the table top already since you don't own the saw attachment yet. You could have just made a hole in the table top for now and used it as a router / shaper. Then, when you get the mini-saw attachment, go back and finish cutting the top to add the table saw.

As long as you put the cover plate on you should have no problem with a full surface work area.

I have been having a lot of fun using mine. I am currently working on my next instructable which features the tablesaw with the optional table extension.

Great instructable. This is a nice project to start with. Instructions and information given are complete. Thanks a lot!
Hello again. I'm completing my table, had to make small modifications but nothing serious, your design works very well :)

Since I don't own the Dremel Saw attachment, I will lose part of the work area, but its no great deal for me, I will use it mainly for sanding and router platform.

The table is still a work in progress, I'll finish it soon.
srsantafe4 years ago
Wow I´m impress, you realy made a great job, didn´t know what I can do with my dremel, i´ll try to make it, don´t know when, but one day, thanks for share it.
sparks42894 years ago
this is just awesome, I've been looking for a mini-table saw in this size/utility range for years. I just ordered a dremel 4k , just to do this ible with.
fly_boy_bc4 years ago
Wow...what else to say but WOW! It's not just how great the design is. It's also not just how clear and compete the instructions are. What I see is someone who REALLY wants others to build and improve upon his project. My plan is to UPSCALE this project to use cordless power tools. Since I already own a drill holder/stand/press and a drill-powered bandsaw why not complete the set with tablesaw, routertable etc that re-purposes my cordless skillsaw, router, etc.

One of my favorite 'ibles EVER!
sdudley (author)  fly_boy_bc4 years ago
That would be excellent. Please post an instructable when you have something completed.

sdudley
CementTruck4 years ago
Great idea!

If you use the spiral saw bits while the tool is in the vertical router configuration you could use this as a "Scroll Saw" too.
sdudley (author)  CementTruck4 years ago
I took your suggestion and used the spiral saw bit as a "Pseudo Scroll Saw". I made an acrylic "Robot" with it.

sdudley
acrylic_robot_01.jpg
WHOA! That worked better than I had imagined.

I'm guessing that you used the spiral saw bit to cut out the general shape. Did you freehand the features with some sort of fine point bit?

Excellent! Now because of your new tool's portability you'll be the "Go To Guy" even more when family and friend need something done at their homes.

If you ever make V.2 you might consider putting the whole tabletop on a hinge from the back of the table. This way you can flip the table top up, reposition the tool, flip the top down and you're on your way. This way there's no unscrewing of the clear tabletop. You could even replace the clear tabletop with a thin aluminum sheet.

Again, GREAT JOB!
sdudley (author)  CementTruck4 years ago

Yes, I laid the image on the acrylic and traced it out then cut it with the bit as you suggested. Then, I used an exacto knife to cut through paper where the features are and went back over them later using one of the Dremel detailing bits. I drilled holes for his eyes and rivets.

It does get a little crazy trying to use it as a scroll saw and you need to hold on tight to your work piece, but as you can see it does work.  You definitely need to run the tool at a very high speed. When I tried slowing it down it just wanted to rip the piece out of my hand.

My first intention was to use aluminum as a cover plate but when I saw how inexpensive the acrylic was (and how easy it is to work with), I decided to use that for this instructable.  Trying to keep it on the cheap for people on a budget. 

I have a few more modifications to make yet but I wanted to get this out there before the contest ended. One modification is to add a mini-disc sander by using the right angle attachment when the tool is in the vertical position. I saw another instructable where a lady makes her own sanding discs for the Dremel and I thought it will make a perfect match to this little table.
 

this particular comment cinched the deal i will be making one now for i have wanted a scroll saw for years
Bobby,

I don't know what your wood working skills are like but have to throw this out just in case, keep in mind that it will be a "Pseudo Scroll Saw". There is no replacement for the real thing.

A spiral saw can make very intricate cuts, but the gap it leaves is as wide as its bit (1/8" or so).

A scroll saw takes very little wood off, which is why it is used to make tight fitting puzzle pieces, etc.
sdudley (author)  CementTruck4 years ago
Hey that's a great addition to it's usefulness. Maybe I can update the video showing that (giving you credit of course). Thanks for the suggestion.

Very,very good idea..I will use it!!
Sublime,
I was breaking my head over this for some time now. Thanks for the solution !
Only pitty for us in Europe the whole world doesn't use the metric system by now (I'm living in Belgium)
sdudley (author)  marcgoovaerts4 years ago
Interestingly enough, I was extremely close to making the rulers metric instead of standard.

Would you like me to add a page of metric rulers?
Kind of you to offer this, but making rulers (last page in the pdf) in the metric system is something everybody can do rather easily. It's more in the description pages where the inch-indications of actions and parts are mind-buzzing for people who are not used to that system. And a whole lot of work to recalculate them all.

However, it's a problem we'll have to live with. All the world knows english by now it seems, but (I like cooking also) you would wonder how many different 'cups' are out there, where for us there's only one simple centiliter...
Britain is slowly changing, helped by the BBC, It's only a matter of generations before this problem will disappear.
sdudley (author)  marcgoovaerts4 years ago
Whenever I am building my own projects I use the metric system because it is so much easier to understand and remember how long or wide I am making something. It's amazing how much esier it is to work with whole numbers rather than fractions.

If I do work in the standard system I try really hard stick with 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch increments.

Well I hope the rest of the world will slowly follow you. It's indeed a lot easier. If you start off from the metric system, maybe in a next tutorial you can use the ' x inch ( x cm) '-description, when you already have the metric measures from the start anyway.

Hear o hear, all you fraction-using writers .... :)
i can't but agree with Marc here on the measurement issues :)
although, this won't discourage me from making the table :) the plans are on the printer, and i'll be visiting my hardware store first thing tommorow (after coffee, of course)

i will be modifying the slider though using an L profile on each side of the slider with a tightening screw so i don't have to use clamps.

all in all, your video inspired me to work more with my high-speed rotary tool (maybe i even go all out and buy a dremel, since my tool seems to be overheaing for some reason)
Very nice! I don't need one, but I want to make one just from watching your video.
sitzikbs4 years ago
amazing instructable ! great work! keep it up...
Kyodun4 years ago
This is simply brilliant!

Just wish I still had a Dremel tool. I broke too many and upgraded to a nice flex shaft Foredom.
toastdore4 years ago
WOW WOW WOW
I'll make one

TOAST
What a beautifully presented project! More like a section of a magazine than your usual Instructable. I intend to make one when the frost gets out of my workshop!
Thank you; this is a great facilitator for artistically trained people like me with enthusiasm but no mechanical design skills or training.
Dragontrap4 years ago
Okay not only is this the coolest thing ever, it allows you to use your Dremel to MAKE the freaking thing. When I get the chance, I am totally doing this (because I adore my dremel way too much to not try this out).
evil_fish4 years ago
sdudley
You are a genius!
sdudley (author)  evil_fish4 years ago
Well thank you very much but I'd be lying if I tried to claim that it was etirely my idea. So... I must give credit where credit is due.

I was originally going to purchase the mini router table from Dremel when I found a project to make your own here:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/routing/mini-router-table/

I also wanted a mini tablesaw and have been looking at some online. They are either too expensive or not powerful enough to do the job I want. Also I am very limited in space (garage is FULL). I decided to redesign the above idea to incorporate the two and make it a combo table.

The tablesaw is limited however as it is not adjustable and it can only saw workpieces up to 3/4" thickness - you must turn the workpiece over and make a second pass (as seen in the video).
A man with talent and modest! I almost forgot to say THANK YOU VERY MUCH for sharing this amazing project!

ps:
sorry about my bad English, I am from China. I wish you can understand. :)
Very nice writeup! Just a quick question. You say you can rip workpieces up to 3/4" with a double sided cut...is that a typo? I thought max cutting depth with that saw was 1/4" which would lead to a 1/2" double cut.

I think I'll have to try my hand at a design like this. I very much like your dual purpose design!

sdudley (author)  Confounded Machine4 years ago
Was 3/4" a typo? Well... yes and no.

I knew I was saying 3/4" but it wasn't until after I posted the comment that I realized it won't cut 3/4". I have no excuse - I'm a loser who can't add. Actually, it won't really cut 1/2" thickness due to the thickness of the cover plate.

Sorry about the misinformation. Thanks for the correction though! :)
Hehe, no worries amigo! Still an awesome guide...so much in fact that last night I went out and purchased a slightly larger saw (4" blade) that I will be converting into a table saw for some precision work I do.

Thanks again!
leshall4 years ago
Easily the best instructable I have ever watched. The final product is excellent too. Kudos.
Excellent! Copy paste copy paste! jajaja I´ll do it!!!
werejag4 years ago
i like the concept but i dont like the idea of screwing and unscrewing the top plastic plate as the wood shall not hold up for long

ill probly build one and move to creating modified version
sdudley (author)  werejag4 years ago
This is good, the kind of stuff I like to hear.  Thanks for the suggestions.

I have quite a few other ideas to make it better but the goal was to make a very inexpensive and easy project that someone can throw together on a Saturday with a little free time.

One example of cheap and easy is the fence. I had planed on using some aluminum T-track with a miter gauge and so on, but then I thought about it and decided on a piece of wood (scrap from the 1x2x4) and a couple cheap clamps.

I also wanted to write an instructable where people don't have to do a lot of searching to find the parts to put the project together.   Just grab a list and head to the hardware store.

I would love nothing more than to see some other people modify it and watch it grow into a really nice little mini-combo workshop (maybe even built into a small roll around table). 

I got the router/shaper idea from someone else and added a tablesaw... now let's see some more modifications!  :)

werejag sdudley4 years ago
yeah i have ideas. thank you for this article.
srilyk werejag4 years ago
It wouldn't take much to put some wood anchors or t-nuts as mods. That should take care of it.
gabrielsan4 years ago
I think I missed it, but, how you put it on the table? I cant tell by the pictures. I mean, How do you lock the router on the table?
sdudley (author)  gabrielsan4 years ago
Now that you mention it, I guess I never said how it clamps to the table - DUH!

It's meant to be clamped via a bench vice. You can either clamp it on the side or the table top. Further down the comments section I posted a link to the original project where I got my idea.

Here is the link again:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/routing/mini-router-table/

He is much more clear about clamoing it to the bench vice.
sdudley (author)  sdudley4 years ago
QUOTE: "He is much more clear about clamoing it to the bench vice"

Sorry, I hit the "o" instead of the "p"... I meant "clamping"!
Edgar4 years ago
Great piece of work!
Subscribed you, so I keep seeing these.
fyavorsky4 years ago
The video production with fast motion and music is as brilliant as the project. Even if I never build the mini-tablesaw/router/sander, I enjoyed watching. Thanks!
kidproquo4 years ago
This is truly an excellent instructable. I'm an architecture student and spend hours on a mini table saw cutting small pieces for models. This will be a great supplement.
I was typing up a really good complement but my computer randomly restarted, and I lost all of my comment work. Long story short, this thing is awesome!

-TheWaddleWaaddle
Barrionuevo4 years ago
Great!!!!!
Thanks to share!!
xboogerx4 years ago
this is awesome.
thank you for sharing with the world.
a very well documented share as well.
sdudley (author)  xboogerx4 years ago
Thanks. I tried very hard to create an instructable that people could make with one trip to the hardware store and complete in a weekend.

I just hope I didn't over explain what is supposed to be a very simple project. I tend to do that!
There is no such thing as over-explaining. Under-explaining? Absolutely. But yoiu can never give too much detail into the hows and whys of a project. It allows others to more easily build (and improve) on your design. Your combination of the Instructable (with excellent photos) and the video make this one of the, if not the, best Instructables I've ever read.
rimar20004 years ago
Excellent job!

I'll make one like it.
Mr.Sanchez4 years ago
A winner ...No doubt...*****
blackslax4 years ago
Probably one of the best Instructable I've ever seen.
You 'da man sdudley.
sdudley (author) 4 years ago
Thanks everyone for the very kind comments about this project. I wanted to keep it as simple as possible for this instructable in hopes that others would give suggestions for improvements.

Fortunately several of you have given great suggestions and I also read some good suggestions for improvement on a few blog sites that have posted it.

I will definitely be adding some more videos showing a project or two that I make with it, as well as a few improvements to the design (one of which is a way to adjust the height of the Dremel when in the vertical position).

I will wait until the contest is over to do this since I have already submitted this into the contest.
This is such a cool project!

Very well presented and absolutely love the video!
CrLz4 years ago
That is a seriously awesome set-up. Thanks for all the hard work!
im gonna make one tonight could of used this for a ling time
BlueWeasel4 years ago
This is exactly what I need. I figure this easily substitutes for $500+ in other
machines of the same size/scope.

I've got a heavy duty flex shaft dremel so it'll require some reengineering
to make sure the shaft isn't in a bind.

sdudley (author)  BlueWeasel4 years ago
I would have used the flex shaft if I had one. You might find that will be easier. The Mini Saw Attachment is held in place by the pipe strap, and held down by the cover plate (aluminum would make a better choice for the cover plate if you want to spend the money). The Dremel is simply resting on the left side panel.

Keep us posted on how well the flex shaft works for this.
This is brilliant!
danner4 years ago
very nice just what I need to build thank you for the plains very well done
Jodex4 years ago
I'm speechless. This is awesome, I'm gonna make this.
This is SO much exactly what I need. I often end up setting up full size a table saw or router table (I have a small shop; so I need to set up a tool when I need it; they are not permanently ready).
For a lot of small parts this is an ideal tool that I can just leave on the workbench at all times.
You have my vote for the "What can you do with a dremel tool" contest!

Hajo
gedda4 years ago
Quite possibly the most clearly written 'ible' I've ever read. * * * * *
And it couldn't come at a better - at least for me - as I just received my first Dremel (a 4000, no less) this past weekend. It seems very fitting that my first project would be to make this table.
Thanks for the great Instructable!
Amazing design, I'll try to build it with your plans, many thanks :)
sdudley (author)  ZaitsevScope4 years ago
Great. Any feedback is welcome. If you find a better way of doing something or the instructions are not clear enough, please comment because I would like find ways to improve upon the design.
I'm thinking on building mine from plywood, acrylic and maybe some aluminium parts. I'll get back in a few days, when I start it.
If I do any change to the design I'll tell you.