Step 1: Materials and Tools Required
2 bicycle pump screw-in valves (I would have used small pipes, but didn't have any)
A few pins
A soft drink can or sheetmetal of the same thickness
Wood (I used balsa offcuts)
A fuse like the blue plastic one in the pictures or similar wire/sheetmetal strip
Varnish of choice (the varnish I used takes about 7 hours to dry and I had to redo it about 3 times)
Glue (I used cheap Japanese superglue and I can't get a white residue off that it left behind)
Paintbrush for varnish
Toothpick for applying superglue to small parts
Scissors or shears to cut can
Step 2: Start Making Main Components
Cut the "screw-in" part of the valve off and save as much of the tube part as you can. They can be fine trimmed later.
As shown on the last page, take the copper off of the blue fuse and be careful not to damage it.
Also, cut and bend into shape the part of the receiver that fits under the barrels. The rectangle of can I used was about 6x8mm, then bent in two places to make a "U" shape. Keep this piece as straight as you can.
Step 3: Wooden Bits
Cut the second piece out and glue the two halves together with the pen ink on the inside. This will make a black line down the middle of the stock. Many old gun stocks were made with two pieces of wood sandwiching a metal frame. After varnishing, the black ink will look like this metal frame. Also cut out the front stock which fits under the barrels. Also add a small piece of balsa on the front of the rear stock, so the receiver can be easily attatched. Don't glue any metal parts yet.
Cut the rear part of the receiver out of the straightened can sheet. This rectangle should be about 22 or 23 mm long and 3 or 4 mm wide. bend this in the same way as the other part of the receiver. The result should look like this I l
Step 4: Make Sure the Puzzle Works
Sand the two stocks with fine sandpaper.(I used 100 grit and wish I hadn't)
Bend the copper part of the fuse to fit the underside of the rear stock and bend a small "C" in it to house the triggers. Also, shape the back dome to neatly fit the back end of the stock. Clip off the dome on the other side as you don't need it, but leave enough copper to be able to glue this part to the underside of the stock.
Bend a small piece if a pin into a "7" shape and make a hole in the front of the stock and glue this in. This will be the hammer.
Glue the 2 barrels side-by-side and glue part of a pin onto the groove in-between them. Like this: O'O NOT this: O-O
Hold everything together and if it doesn't fit nicely, make necessary adjustments. Trim the barrels now.
Step 5: Varnishing and Detail
While you are waiting for the varnish to dry, make the top part of the stock to hide the back ends of the twin-barrels. I cut this piece from a semicircular piece of can and bent the corners down. In the middle of the curved edge, I cut a small "v" out of it so the hammer would fit nicely behind it. Like so: ____
For the 2 triggers, bend 2 5mm cut-off sections of a pin and make holes for them in the underside of the stock. Then glue them in. *Before you glue them in, make sure they will fit neatly in the copper trigger guard.
My gun didn't quite fit right and I had to glue some pieces of pin between the front stock and the barrels. I also had to do this with the bottom part of the receiver.
Glue the parts together as shown in the pictures.
Step 6: Finishing Up and Making a Miniature Gun-rack
To make this gun a nicer display piece I made a simple stand from balsa.
I then put two pieces of pin through to support both the triggers and the front stock. I left the wood bare because it contrasts nicely with the gun.
I attatched some pictures to add a sense of scale.
In the last picture you will also see the 12mm long handgun I made with the leftovers of this gun.