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Step 5The holographic film and housing
The final construction is simply putting the PCB into the case and after programming affixing it with a dob of hot glue. Three holes allow access to the microswitches from the front.
The notable part of this clock is the use of a holographic diffuser film. This is special film I had lying around that provides a nice depth to the device. You could use plain tracing paper (in which I'd move the PCB closer to the front), or any other diffuser like those used in flourescent light fixtures. Experiement about, the only thing it needs to do is allow you to differentiate between the number of illuminated LEDs, or else counting the dots to tell the time will be difficult. I used holographic dispersion material from the Physical Optics Coorporation (www.poc.com) with a 30 degree circular dispersion, the supercomputer status display shown elsewhere in the instructable used a film with a 15x60degree elliptical dispersion.
You could use some blackout tape to hide the shiny innards during the daytime to get a more mysterious look. You could even leave the display clear and let people see the innards as I did.
The stand was two bits of aluminium 'L' bar with a bit chopped out at the bottom to allow a bend.
Note in these pictures extra lighting was added so you can see the display covers etc. In normal living room lighting, the LEDs are more prominant, even in daylight.
The notable part of this clock is the use of a holographic diffuser film. This is special film I had lying around that provides a nice depth to the device. You could use plain tracing paper (in which I'd move the PCB closer to the front), or any other diffuser like those used in flourescent light fixtures. Experiement about, the only thing it needs to do is allow you to differentiate between the number of illuminated LEDs, or else counting the dots to tell the time will be difficult. I used holographic dispersion material from the Physical Optics Coorporation (www.poc.com) with a 30 degree circular dispersion, the supercomputer status display shown elsewhere in the instructable used a film with a 15x60degree elliptical dispersion.
You could use some blackout tape to hide the shiny innards during the daytime to get a more mysterious look. You could even leave the display clear and let people see the innards as I did.
The stand was two bits of aluminium 'L' bar with a bit chopped out at the bottom to allow a bend.
Note in these pictures extra lighting was added so you can see the display covers etc. In normal living room lighting, the LEDs are more prominant, even in daylight.
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