It was time to change the belt on my sander. While I was at it, I decided to pimp it up. Here's my minimalist approach to attaching a solid, square fence to a portable belt sander.

Step 1: Portable Belt Sander

I bought this sander a few years ago from Harbor Freight. There was a dizzying array of models to choose from. This one had an adjustable handle. When laid flat, the sander can be laid on its back, and it's quite stable. I figured I would convert it into a bench sander, and this feature would save me some work. Even if your belt sander does not stand on its own, this instructable may still help you to attach the all-important fence. See, the fence must be square to the belt if you want to create and/or retain nice, square edges.
What is that little fairy in the background there?
She's magic. Wherever she goes, things get clean and organized. You can see a better picture in my "My Workbench" Instructable.
She's been on my outdoor bench for awhile. Here's the before and after. :)
I sure do need one of those fairies!
Oh, I have a terrible image of friction and dust setting that block on fire...
I'm not too keen on the use of wood for this project either. I tried to use wood for a table on a disc sander build and that was horrible. The table shook, and vibrated a lot and I just didn't use the machine because it was generally unsatisfactory to me. So I took the time to rebuild it using metal and now I am completely happy with it, and use it all of the time too. Sure it was a lot more work but I'll have it for the rest of my life. <br> <br>The moral of the story is sometimes it is worth making the extra effort. I wish I had a picture of the old disc sander because it didn't look too bad, it just worked bad. Here is the rebuilt machine. There is a 2x12 wooden spacer block in the base but that does not seem to hurt rigidity.
Nice work on your disc sander, BTW. It looks extremely efficient in terms of space and weight and use of materials.
It all depends on how you use it. Wood has a good modulus of elasticity-to weight ratio. It's higher than cast iron. So unless you're willing to use a substantial chunk of metal, you still won't be any better than using the solid block of white oak that I used. <br> <br>If vibration was an issue for your sander, I wonder if your disc may need some balancing. There's no reason you cannot build a proper disc sander table out of wood. <br> <br>Say my fence was made of solid steel. 5 pounds of it! And instead of shimming it, I drilled and tapped the four corners to take leveling screws. Then I cut some nice brackets for securing it. Well, this solid metal fence is still being supported by the plastic housing of the belt sander. That's the limiting factor, here, not the fence. So all that effort is for naught unless I take apart the sander and rebuild the housing to also be more ridged (and larger and heavier). It that's what I wanted, I would have bought a bench sander. :) <br> <br>A proper disc sander is at the top of my want list. But I have a small outdoor work area, and the only spot that is protected from the rain is already occupied by more essential tools. I use this little sander because it has a small footprint. It's light. It will be easy to transport when I eventually move into a place with more space. And I also very occasionally use it as a portable belt sander. So perhaps it's not a matter of &quot;extra effort&quot; so much as I'm not you. Our situations are different.
Thanks. Safety is always important. The thought touched my mind that heat could be an issue. Before cutting out extra relief, I just went ahead and watched what happened. Nothing bad. My first belt lasted for 3 years. (Quality belt - I threw the original in the garbage before I even turned it on.) I've never seen a hint of sawdust collect at the bottom of the fence. And in the pics you can see the original fence wasn't scorched on the bottom.

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