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Everyone hates to be stuck somewhere with no outlet because then they can not charge their phone!  In this intractable you will learn how to solder together a MinyBoost v3.0 kit so you wont get stuck with a dead phone with no where to charge it.

Step 1: Materials

The first step is gathering all of your materials
~The first thing you will need is the MintyBoost v3.0 kit from the maker shed
~Then you will need to get soder (rosin core, as small as you can find) and a sodering iron
~You will also need something that will cut mental (garden clippers are my suggestion but you might also want something that can get into tighter spots.
~Last but no least you will need and altoids can any size will work but I would suggest the bigger kind to make it easier

Step 2: R5

The first step in this project is putting in R5.  This responder does not have a 'twin' and has orange and red band painted around it.  FInd the part of the circuit board that says R5.  The Responder is non polar so it does not matter which way you put it in.  Fit the responder in as far as it goes with the head on the printed side.  Bend the wires over so they are laying flat on the circuit board.  Use the solder and soldering iron to solder the wire to the pad (or small ring surrounding the hole).  Once the wire is soldered (make sure the metal from that soldering doesn't touch any other pads) clip the remaining wire off.

*The words in italics meant that you will do this for every step.

Step 3: R2 R4

The next step you will take is putting in the R2 and R4 resistors.  Resistors R2 and R4 are blue and have purple, green, black, red, and brown bands painted around them.   These resistors are exactly the same so it does not matter which one goes to which side.  R2 and R4 are also non polar so they can be flipped what ever way.  Fit the responder in as far as it goes with the head on the printed side.  Bend the wires over so they are laying flat on the circuit board.  Use the solder and soldering iron to solder the wire to the pad (or small ring surrounding the hole).  Once the wire is soldered (make sure the metal from that soldering doesn't touch any other pads even if they are from the same responder) clip the remaining wire off.  

*The words in italics meant that you will do this for every step.

Step 4: R1 R3

The next pieces to put in resistors R1 and R3. These are blue and they have yellow, white, red, and brown band painted around them.  These are also labeled on the printed side of the circuit board, and the head goes on that side these responders are non polar so can still go on either way. Fit the responder in as far as it goes with the head on the printed side.  Bend the wires over so they are laying flat on the circuit board.  Use the solder and soldering iron to solder the wire to the pad (or small ring surrounding the hole).  Once the wire is soldered (make sure the metal from that soldering doesn't touch any other pads even ones from the same responder.) clip the remaining wire off.

*The words in italics meant that you will do this for every step.

Step 5: C1 C2

The next things we will place are the ceramic capacitors C1 and C2.  These have short legs are yellow and have a sort of bubbly top (there are two of them).  They will go at the bottom of the circuit board were it is labeled C1 and C2.  Fit the capacitors in as far as it goes with the head on the printed side.  Bend the wires over so they are laying flat on the circuit board.  Use the solder and soldering iron to solder the wire to the pad (or small ring surrounding the hole).  Once the wire is soldered (make sure the metal from that soldering doesn't touch any other pads including the ones from the same capacitor) clip the remaining wire off.

*The words in italics meant that you will do this for every step.

Step 6: D1

In this step you will put the first diode in (D1).  D1 is thick black and has a white strip printed on one end.  This one is polar so when you put it in make sure the strip in the diode matches the strip printed on the circuit board.  Fit the diode in as far as it goes with the head on the printed side.  Bend the wires over so they are laying flat on the circuit board.  Use the solder and soldering iron to solder the wire to the pad (or small ring surrounding the hole).  Once the wire is soldered (make sure the metal from that soldering doesn't touch any other pads even the ones from the same diode) clip the remaining wire off.

*The words in italics meant that you will do this for every step.

Step 7: IC Socket

The next thing that should go in is the IC socket.  The IC socket is black and it has a hole through the middle of it, it has eight silver metal pieces on the top (not 8 metal legs).  The socket will go on top of R5.  On IC1 there is a small piece carved out on one side like in the picture printed on the circuit board.  These should match up when they are soldered on.  Fit the socket in as far as it goes with the head on the printed side.  Bend the wires over so they are laying flat on the circuit board.  Use the solder and soldering iron to solder the wire to the pad (or small ring surrounding the hole).  Once the wire is soldered (make sure the metal from that soldering doesn't touch any other pads even ones from this socket) clip the remaining wire off.

*The words in italics meant that you will do this for every step.

Step 8: Power Conductor

Nest to go in is the power conductor on the circuit board this is labeled L1.  The power conductor look like a mini speaker.  It is non polar so it can go either way.  There is a big open space on the circuit board in a circle and that is where the power conductor goes. Fit the power conductor in as far as it goes with the head on the printed side, the conductor may have to sit on its side a little but that is okay.  Bend the wires over so they are laying flat on the circuit board.  Use the solder and soldering iron to solder the wire to the pad (or small ring surrounding the hole).  Once the wire is soldered (make sure the metal from that soldering doesn't touch any other pads) clip the remaining wire off.

*The words in italics meant that you will do this for every step.

Step 9: Electronic Capacitors

Next in are the electronic capacitors. this are blue, tall, and there wires are not the same length.   These will go in the circles that have to two small bars in them.  These are polar so you need to be careful which side goes to which.   The capacitors have two different length legs so you can tell which goes in which side.  The longer leg will go in the pad labeled with the +.  Fit the capacitors in as far as it goes with the head on the printed side.  Bend the wires over so they are laying flat on the circuit board.  Use the solder and soldering iron to solder the wire to the pad (or small ring surrounding the hole).  Once the wire is soldered (make sure the metal from that soldering doesn't touch any other pads even the ones from the same capacitor) clip the remaining wire off.

*The words in italics meant that you will do this for every step.

Step 10: Battery Holder

Next you have to solder in the battery holder.  The battery holder has two wires connected to it one is red one is black.  If you hold the curicit board with the flat side facing you there are two holes where wires will go in.  The red one will go into the pad marked + and the black one will go into the pad marked -. Bend the wires over so they are laying flat on the circuit board.  Use the solder and soldering iron to solder the wire to the pad (or small ring surrounding the hole).  Once the wire is soldered (make sure the metal from that soldering doesn't touch any other pads) clip the remaining wire off.

*The words in italics meant that you will do this for every step.

Step 11: USB Converter

Next you need to carefully put the chip into the socket.  

Next Step is putting in the USB converter.  The 4 small pieces need little soldering and the two big hook need a lot of soldering because they are there to hold it on.  they should still not touch anything though.  The USB converter should still still on the printed side of the circuit board.

Time to test! Hook it up to a phone and phone charger, it does not have to be a phone though.  If it does not work try soldering together the two small middle pieces of the USB converter. 

Step 12: Case It

To case your charger, cut out a spot on your box that will fit the USB.  (1.5 centimeters wide and to the bottom.)  Take you two pieces of double sided sticky and put one on the bottom of your circuit board the other on the bottom of the battery holder. I used a band-aid on the bottom and it worked just as well, the things under are there because you do not want your metal to touch the box or it will interrupt signal.  So make sure all of your edges are clipped well so none of them touch.
My grandfather suggested that I use 3 AA batteries instead of 2.
I made this from the kit but on my iPhone 5s it charges for about 20-30 mins then it says "This accessory may not be supported" and stops charging. Any advice?

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