Halfway through this project, while exploring the "tune" command in the Picaxe programming language I came up with an idea for a modification to a puzzle box I had. At first I just wanted to make a circuit that played different songs using the monophonic ringtone playing feature of the Picaxe. When I chose the puzzle box as my project box I decided to up the ante and make it a game.
When the puzzle box is tilted or jostled the box will begin playing the "Mission Impossible" theme song at normal speed. It will repeat four times increasing in speed with each iteration. After the last time the box will play a descending white noise sound (like "pshhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwbbbooooooooaaaaaaahgurgglegurglegurgle" GAME OVER!) These sounds will repeat until someone successfully opens the box and "defuses" the game.
If there's any interest, I'll make a video.
Updated design, pictures and program coming soon.
Step 1: Parts & Tools
Perfboard (I used one Radio Shack had that is made for 20 pin IC's but... your choice)
Resistors (see schematic)
Capacitor (22 uf)
Speaker (smaller the better)
Solid core wire
SPST Switch (this will be your "defuse" switch so feel free to get creative)
Trigger switch (tilt switch, reed switch, secret magnet switch,?? I'm still working on this part)
9v Battery with a battery cap
Box to put the stuff in. ($5.99 at Amazon)
Step 2: Design
The point is, you need to design your circuit. I don't believe you should ever just copy someone else's schematic without at least trying to understand how it works for yourself. What's the point? Why not just buy stuff pre-made? Rant over.
Since I was using an oddly designed perfboard I really had to think about where things went. Next time I think I'll use a regular old grid even if it means a few extra connections.
So, If you need a little more direction I'll talk you through the major points of the circuit. 9V+ comes in directly from the battery and connects to the 5v regulator. The regulator has three pins. Input, ground, and output. Connect +9v to the input and the output will provide +5v. Don't get confused and connect anything else to the 9v+.
Now to the chip itself. Counter clockwise. (Note: ignore these pin numbers when doing your programming, refer to the manual in the help files!)
Pin 1= +5v
Pin 2= Serial input for programming. If you are programming this on your breadboard you still need the resistors on there to keep the chip happy.
Pin 3= LED output. Just add a resistor in series with the LED and you're good. 330 ohms is the standard. I think I used something slightly larger I had around.
Pin 4= Push button switch. I added this early on, but it really isn't necessary for the program I ended up with. I just left it on for an added feature. And I hate to waste perfectly good pins. Wire it so that when the switch is closed (powered!) there is a 1k resistor between +5v and the pin AND so that when the switch is open there is a 10k resistor between the 1k and 0V(ground). I think the picaxe manual explains it better.
Pin5= Capacitor and Speaker in series. The capacitor filters out DC noise or something they tell me. The result is a louder speaker. Mine was plenty loud without any amplification. If yours is too loud add a resistor in the series or a trim pot to adjust the volume.
Pin6= Tilt switch. Wire it the same way as pin 4 except use the tilt switch.
Pin7=DUAL USE... Isn't that sweet that picaxe lets you use this pin two ways?
The first use is for programming. This is the serial output. It is important if you want to program the chip on the board. You just need a way to connect your programming wire to it. I use alligator lead wires.
The second us is for an LED output just like pin 3. Again, you can leave out the LED's. They just blink. What am I saying? You MUST put the LED's in because every project needs blinky lights.
Pin8= 0V. Ground this pin.
Clear as mud? Simply speaking this circuit uses two pins to output to LEDs,one pin to output to speaker, and two pins to receive input from switches.
Now all that's left is the "defuse" mechanism. Once the player figures out how to open the box there needs to be a way for them to stop the program. I've decided the best way to do this is to reset the whole program by cutting the power. I'll add some kind of switch to the battery wire. Or maybe I'll just cut the wire and twist the ends together by hand. That way the way to "diffuse" the device is to actually pull the wires apart. We'll see.
UPDATE: I've added the schematic. No guarantee this is perfect as I have just started learning to use Eagle, and I have no idea about standards or best practices for schematic design. Helpful critique is welcome.
Step 3: Build the Circuit.
I can't think of any tips to help you here. Just do one connection at a time, be careful and try to catch mistakes as you go. I only had to remove and replace one resistor, but it was a major hassle.
Feel free to ask questions.
Step 4: Program the Chip
I'll add some pictures of how I use the programming cable directly on the circuit later.
If you wired things the way I did please note that the LED attached to Serial Out will blink during program download.
If you don't know how to program your picaxe read your manual or ask here. Maybe someone will take pity on you. It is a multi-step process, but once you do it you'll see its pretty easy.
I suggest you write your own program and chose your own songs, but here's mine. If you are looking for other songs, I noticed that there are some included archived in the program folders you download with the program editor.
'Mission Impossible by Bennett Sanderson
'April 1, 2012
main: 'the main part of the program simply waits for input
if pin1=1 then mission 'pin1 is the tilt switch.
if pin3=1 then hail 'pin3 is the momentary
for b0=4 to 1 step -1 'Play the song four times faster each time
tune 3, b0,($4C,$42,$43,$42,$43,$42,$43,$42,$43,$42,$42,$43,$44,$45,$46,$47,$47,$4C,$47,$4C,$4A,$4C,$40,$4C,$47,$4C,$47,$4C,$45,$4C,$46,$4C,$47,$4C,$47,$4C,$4A,$4C,$40,$4C,$47,$4C,$47,$4C,$45,$4C,$46,$4C,$4A,$47,$C2,$4C,$4A,$47,$C1,$4C,$4A,$47,$C0,$4C,$6A,$40)
for b2=250 to 150 step -1 'Explosions sound
goto mission 'Infinite Loop! If you'd rather the program start over at this point change this line to "goto main"
hail: 'This is the fight song for my dad's college
tune 3, 5,($E0,$27,$24,$C0,$6B,$69,$67,$24,$67,$24,$27,$E5,$25,$64,$25,$22,$24,$65,$E7,$26,$67,$29,$26,$27,$69,$6B,$67,$65,$62,$E0,$27,$24,$C0,$6B,$69,$67,$24,$67,$24,$27,$E9,$29,$68,$29,$2B,$00,$27,$E4,$29,$6A,$2B,$27,$C0)
Step 5: Stick It All in the Box
If the 9v battery is too big, the same circuit could be run off any batteries supplying 4.5 volts or more. I chose the 9v because it only requires one battery with no case and will probably last longer than smaller batteries. I have heard of people breaking open 9v's to use the skinny cells inside (I think they are 1.5v individually, 3 of them would work). I don't know if that will work or if it is safe. You're on your own there.
Step 6: Play!
You could use this same circuit in other ways. Instead of putting it in a puzzle box you could put it in a clear box (ipod packaging?) with a lot of extra wires. Challenge your friends to "cut the right wire" to stop the device before time is up. Maybe add a countdown clock display?
Anyway, sky's the limit. I hope this helps someone make something cool and improve their skills while doing something creative.