Introduction: Mobile Phone Hoodie and Texting Gloves
This mobile phone/MP3 player hoodie and texting gloves are easy to make and customizable to your hands and electronic devices. There is no pattern. Just easy to follow directions so you can make this yourself.
For this project, I up-cycled a pair of shorts, but you could use a thicker t-shirt material, semi-stretchy sweatshirt material or if you want, simply purchase new material. Feel free to make this in any color fabric you want (just make sure there is some stretch to the fabric).
The texting gloves (as I like to call them) are fingerless and thumbless gloves that have flaps to cover your finger tips and thumbs while you are not using your electronic device.
The mobile phone/MP3 player hoodie has a front pouch (like on many hoodies) and you can use this to wrap your ear buds when they are not in use so they stay out of the way. The pouch stays closed with a strip of velcro.
Not only is this very stylish, but will keep you organized and protect your electronics and keep your hands warm! This is also a great home-ec project for those of you taking sewing classes.
So lets get started!
Step 1: Materials
As I said in the introduction, I up-cycled a pair of semi-stretchy cotton shorts for this project, but you may use ANY material for this project as long as it has some stretch. Keep in mind that you don't want anything too thick so that the gloves are comfortable. This is a great opportunity to use up a pair of shorts or a shirt that got a hole in it, or a stain that you can't get out. So get digging in that closet!
You will also need:
about 2 inches of velcro (it doesn't need to be very wide)
narrow elastic (enough to go around both wrists)
needle and matching thread
sewing machine* (this project can be made WITHOUT using a sewing machine, so don't feel limited by a lack of tools!!!)
straight pins (you'll need quite a few to hold your fabric together as you sew)
a couple sheets of paper to make patterns (you can use newsprint or any scrap paper for this)
tailors chalk or a washable marker
seam ripper (depending on the fabric choice you make)
If you're up-cycling a pair of shorts (like I did), you'll want to take a seam ripper and open the waste band and take out the elastic and/or drawstring. You may be able to simple cut the waste band off if you don't have the patience for opening seams, but you'll need to make sure you have enough material left to work with and some elastic (either up-cycled from the shorts, or buy new elastic). Your choice.
For fabrics there is a "wrong side" and a "right side". If you look at most fabrics, the nicer side is the "right side" and the wrong side (especially with prints) is the faded, less nice looking side. The importance of understanding this, is due to the fact you want your seams to appear on the "wrong side" of the fabric (so they are hidden). In this case, the fabric I am using is identical on the inside and the outside, but the seams are still on the "wrong side", for the purposes of this instructable.
Step 2: Gloves: Cutting Out Your Pieces
Reference photo 1:
The first thing you'll need to do is get a couple sheets of paper to make the patterns for your gloves.
Lay a piece of paper down and stretch your fingers open. Trace around one hand, and mark where your middle knuckles are on all fingers and your thumb. Then cut out your hand pattern from the paper. (Unless you have two different sized hands, you only need to cut this pattern from one hand). This is pattern 1.
On a second piece of paper, trace one hand with your fingers together. Mark where the middle knuckles are and then cut out your pattern from the paper. This is pattern 2.
Reference photo 2:
Now we need to cut the pattern out of the fabric and we need to cut through 2 layers at once. If you're using new fabric, fold it in half so that you have 2 layers. Before tracing/cutting your fabric, check the direction of the stretch. You want the stretch to go width-wise with your pattern (if your fabric has more stretch in one direction). Lay pattern 1 on the edge of two layers of fabric leaving a full inch of fabric past where you want the wrist cuff to be. Then trace around your pattern (like shown in photo 2), leaving about 3/8" extra fabric around your hand pattern. You'll need this extra material to sew your pieces together AND to allow for the thickness of your fingers. You don't have to trace all the way to the finger tips, just trace past the knuckle lines and add 3/8" more fabric. Once you remove the pattern, you can draw a straight line across the finger and thumb areas.
Reference photo 3:
Then using straight pins, pin both layers of fabric together. (Make sure the material is flat on both the top layer and bottom layer). Then you can cut out both layers of fabric at once, following your lines.
Reference photo 4:
Now repeat this process and cut out another hand from pattern 1. When you're done you should have what looks like photo 4.
Reference photo 5:
Take pattern 2 and lay it down over 2 layers of fabric. Trace around your pattern adding an extra 3/8" around (see photo 5). Again, you do not need to cut out the whole hand, you only need to trace the fingers past the knuckle lines and add 3/8" fabric.
Reference photo 6:
When you remove the pattern finish drawing the line straight across past the knuckle line. Then using straight pins, pin the two layers of fabric together, then you can cut out your pattern following the lines you just made.
Reference photo 7:
Repeat this process again with pattern 2, until you have what looks like photo 7.
Reference photo 8:
Take pattern 2 and lay the thumb area over 2 layers of fabric. Trace around the thumb adding an extra 3/8" around and draw a line past the knuckle by 3/8". Remove the pattern and complete the straight line past the knuckle. Then pin together your two layers of fabric and cut out the thumb following your lines.
Reference photo 9:
Repeat the process and cut out another thumb, until you have what looks like photo 9.
Reference photo 10:
Now cut two lengths of elastic that will fit around your wrist. (You'll need one for each glove).
Step 3: Mobile Phone/MP3 Hoodie: Cutting Out the Pieces
Reference Photo 1:
For the main body of your mobile phone or MP3 player, you'll need to cut out a rectangle that is about 1 1/2 inches longer and an 1 1/2 inches wider than your electronic device. Cut out the piece and pin the fabric in place like shown in photo 1 (with the "wrong side" out). Using your tailors chalk or a washable marker, make a few "dash lines" to mark the seam on both "wrong sides" of the fabric.
Reference Photo 2:
For the hoodie, if you're up-cycling some fabric, you'll want to cut a rectangle along one of the existing finished edges. If you're using new fabric, you'll need to add a little more fabric in order to finish the edge. In this case, I used the finished edge, and folded the fabric so that I could cut out a piece like shown in photo 2. You want the size of the hoodie to be in proportion to your electronic device, so cut the size you think works best and leave a little extra fabric for the seams.
Reference Photo 3:
Now you'll need to free hand a hoodie shape similar to what I did in photo 3. Keep in mind that the top of the fabric in the photo is the fold. The straight lines are cut lines and the dash lines are the sewing lines.
Reference Photo 4 & 5:
After you have drawn your hoodie shape, you can pin the two layers of fabric together and cut out the hoodie (like shown in photo 4 & 5).
Reference Photo 6:
For the top of the hoodie, I cut a piece of fabric to make a neckline. It doesn't need to go around completely. It's only meant to finish the front area where the hood is not attached to the main body. So you'll need to cut a rectangle that's about 1 1/2 inches (so you can fold it in half and leave enough for a seam) and a little wider than the main fabric (see photo 6).
Reference Photo 7:
For my mobile phone hoodie, I wanted a good way to hold the headphones and cord when they weren't in use, so I decided to make a pouch for the hoodie and make it with a velcro closure so that the cord could wind around the pouch. To make one, you'll need to cut a square piece of fabric that is the same width as your electronic device. In this case I again used a finished edge from the fabric I used. If you're unable to, or you're using new fabric, add another inch in length so that you can turn the edge and finish it with a seam. (You'll need a full inch as you'll later sew in some velcro and you'll want a little thicker fabric here for strength).
Reference Photo 8:
I wanted a way to clip a neck cord to the mobile phone hoodie so that I could use the MP3 player on my phone handsfree. So I took a strip of the drawstring from my shorts and used it on the back so that I could clip to it. If you don't have a drawstring, you can cut another rectangle of fabric a little wider than your electronic device and big enough that you can fold it in half (like the neckline fabric). See photo 8. This will be your "strap" piece.
Reference Photo 9:
You'll also need to cut a piece of velcro for the hoodie pouch. It needs to be a little narrower than the piece you cut for your pouch. See photo 9.
Step 4: Gloves: Sewing the Pieces
To begin sewing our gloves, we need to gather our fingerless pieces from pattern 1. (see photo 1)
You'll want to begin by sewing a "zig zag" stitch at the bottom of the cuff in order to keep the fabric from fraying. *Make sure to zig zag stitch both pieces separately so that you don't sew both parts together at the cuff. You can do this by removing only the straight pins at the cuffs and sew while keeping the remainder of the glove pieces pinned. Do this for both gloves.
Reference photo 2:
Once the zig zag stitch is done on the hem of the cuff, you can begin sewing a straight stitch around the gloves starting at the cuff. Keep the stitches within an 1/8 of an inch from the edge. This is important. When you reach the first finger (or thumb) end your straight stitching and then while half of a finger (or thumb) is sewn, you'll want to zig zag the rough edge of the finger from front to back. Then you can continue with the straight stitch and sew the other side of the finger opening. When you reach another finger, end the straight stitch and then zig zag stitch the raw edges of the finger opening from front to back. Continue on in this manner until the entire glove is sewn around all fingers and all raw edges are sewn with a zig zag stitch.
Once you've sewn the entire glove it should look like photo 3. Now go around all the straight stitched edges with a zig zag stitch to prevent the material from fraying. Repeat these steps for the other glove.
Reference photo 4:
After you have sewn and zig zag stitched both your gloves, you'll need to take your elastics and place one around your wrist and measure where it feels comfortable. (You don't want it to be tight). Once you've measured out the length, sew the two ends together so that you have a closed loop. Repeat this step for the other elastic. Place one closed loop of elastic around one cuff of your glove and pin the fabric over the elastic on the "wrong side" (side with the stitches), but don't place the pins in the elastic. See photo 4. You'll now want to turn over the edges of your fingers as shown in photo 4. You only need to turn over approximately 1/4 of an inch of material. Repeat this step for the other glove.
After pinning the elastics inside the cuffs, you can sew your cuffs closed with a straight stitch. Make sure that you leave the elastics moving freely inside each cuff.
Reference photo 5:
Now you will need to hand sew the over turned finger edges on the "wrong side" of the gloves (stitching side). See photo 5. Make sure you leave your stitches loose enough so that the fabric can still stretch. Continue until all fingers and thumbs are sewn on both gloves.
Reference photo 6:
Take the finger pieces you cut with pattern 2 and sew the bottom straight hem with a zig zag stitch. Again, do this separately for both pieces so that you don't stitch the two parts together! After you've sewn the zig zags on both pinned pieces, you can over turn the edge by 1/4 inch and sew a straight stitch over the zig zag stitches. Make sure that the parts are not sewn together!
After sewing the hems of these pieces, you can sew a straight stitch around the curved pieces, this time you want to sew the two pinned pieces together. Repeat this for the other piece you cut from pattern 2. Finish both pieces with a zig zag stitch along the edges of your straight stitching. When you're done you'll have 2 piece that look like pockets with the straight edge open.
Reference photo 7:
To sew the thumb pieces, you'll follow the same procedure as with the last pieces that go over the fingers. Begin with the straight edges and separately sew the zig zag on the raw edge, then turn the edge over by 1/4 inch and separately sew each piece with a straight stitch over the turned zig zag edge. Then straight stitch around the curved edges and finish the raw edges with a zig zag stitch to prevent fraying.
Reference photo 8:
To attach the thumb parts, you'll want to try on your glove and then place the thumb part over your thumb. Pin one edge of the thumb part only at the back side to your glove (like shown in photo 8). After pinning the thumb part in place, you may remove the glove and hand sew the one edge of the thumb tip to the glove. Pay special attention to where the seams are of the thumb piece and the glove and try to match them when you sew. Repeat this step for the other glove.
Reference photo 9:
After sewing both thumbs you'll need to put one glove back on and pin the piece that will cover your fingers to the back side of the glove only. Now carefully remove the glove and hand sew the finger piece to the glove where you've pinned it to the back only. Pay special attention to where the seams are of the finger piece and the gloves and try to match them when you sew. Repeat this step for the other glove.
Reference photo 10 & 11:
When both gloves are sewn they should function like photos 10 and 11. In photo 10 you'll see that the finger and thumb covers have been flipped over to allow you to text or otherwise use your electronics etc. In photo 11 you'll see that your fingers and thumb can be covered to keep you nice and warm!
Congratulations! You're new "texting gloves" are now complete. Continue on to complete your mobile phone/MP3 Hoodie.
Step 5: Mobile Phone/MP3 Hoodie: Sewing the Pieces
We're going to begin this step by sewing the front pouch. Take the piece you cut and zig zag all the raw edges. Then (like shown in photo 1) pin a 1/4 inch of each side over onto the wrong side (stitched side) and then sew both sides with a straight stitch. (Do not turn over the top edge). If you are not using a finished edge of fabric for the bottom edge, then you'll need to take the additional 1 inch of fabric and fold it over like both sides and straight stitch it like shown in photo 1.
Now take the main piece of material (should still be pinned from earlier) like shown in photo 2 and flip it over so that you can see the side without the seam. (see photo 3). Place your pouch piece onto the main piece in the lower area and mark where you want the top of the pouch to be and mark the center with 2 pins (like shown in photo 3). Do not pin your pouch piece! The pins will act as the location for your pouch. The measuring tape is used to ensure the middle pin is at the center point of the fabric. Double check that the pinned area at the back is also at the exact center. Make any adjustments now.
After you've marked these points with pins, you can unpin the seam you have at the back and lay the material out flat (like photo 4). Flip the material over like in photo 5 and using the pins as your guide, put your pouch piece in place and sew it down like shown in photo 6.
Now take one side of your velcro and lay it in position on the main piece of fabric and sew it in place like shown in photo 7. Make sure that the velcro will line up with your pouch flap when the flap is placed down. The other piece of velcro will be hand stitched to the pouch flap later.
Match up the right sides together of your main piece of fabric and re-pin the seam you marked with dash lines. Then sew a straight stitch along those dash lines to form a tube with your fabric. Finish a zig zag stitch close to your straight stitch and then trim away the excess material. Flatten the "tube" of material so that the back seam is at the center and then sew a straight stitch within a 1/4 of the bottom hem. Finish the edges with a zig zag stitch. You may round the corners if your device is not very square and trim away the excess corner material if needed; just ensure that the raw edges are all finished with a zig zag stitch to avoid fraying.
Test the fit of your main material by placing your electronic device inside, then trim the top edge to within a 1/4 inch of the top. Remove the device and gather your the hood piece you cut earlier. Sew along the dash lines of the hood ONLY around the back portion. At the bottom of the hood piece, leave the piece un-sewn, this is where you will attach your hood to the main body of fabric. Ensure you zig zag the raw edges of the hood.
Now gather the piece you cut for the neckline. Fold it in half and zig zag all the raw edges, then straight stitch the fold closed.
In photo 8 & 9 you will see that the neckline and the hood has been pinned in place for sewing. You'll do this by pinning the neckline to the front of your main fabric piece with the right sides together. Ensure that the neckline piece is centered with the front of your device holder. Then matching the back seam of the hoodie to the back seam of the main fabric piece, then continue pinning your hoodie around the sides. Overlap the neckline fabric with the hoodie fabric. Ensure that all the "right sides" are pinned together so that when everything is sewn, the stitches will all be on one side. After pinning both pieces and ensuring they are centered, you may straight stitch them in place. Follow up the stitch line with a zig zag stitch. After removing the pins, your piece should look like photo 10.
Using a needle and matching thread, hand sew the edges of the neckline piece inside the hoodie. Place the needle ONLY through the first layer of folded fabric so that the stitches are not visible on the outside (as shown in photo 11).
Now match up the other piece of velcro with the pouch flap and hand sew the velcro in place. Again, sew the velcro by running the needle through the first folded layer of fabric only, so that the stitches are not visible on the front side of the pouch flap. See photo 12.
Take the last piece of material (your strap piece) and sew the raw edges with a zig zag and fold over both ends so that you have a narrow strip with one side the seams and one side without seams. Line up the piece to the back of your device holder just below the hood and sew the strap in place. See photo 13.
Congratulations! You have now completed your Mobile Phone/MP3 player Hoodie.
Runner Up in the
Sew Warm Challenge
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