Step 8: Wire the new ballast

There is a drawing on the ballast how to connect it. Key for the letters :

L / P / wave - is called Live. It is the wire with 240 or 110 volt on it. It is brown in most new installations around the world / black in the US / blue in most installations in Israel / red in many old installations in Israel

N / 0 - is called Neutral. It is the wire with 0 volt on it. It is blue in most new installations around the world / white in the US / black in most installations in Israel

E / reversed tree - is called Earth. It is another wire with 0 volt on it but with different task. If present it should be connected to the metallic tray of the fixture (and only to it). It is green or green / yellow striped in most installations around the world and white in some very old installations in Israel

Standard magnetic ballasts are all connected the same way. Connect Neutral to one pin of the lamp. Connect wire from other pin of the lamp to one entry of the ballast. Connect the other entry of the ballast to Live.

In some ballasts 2 entries are marked as L and P. In this case the rule is : connect the lamp as shown and then connect Live to the other entry - NOT the one with the lamp

In some ballasts there is capacitor shown on the Live connection and a wire that bypasses it. This means the capacitor is optional. We will connect Live straight to the ballast without capacitor in the way (and connect another capacitor another way)

I used one of the 36 w ballasts as a connection point for the wires (instead of a terminal block)

Be sure to connect the wires to 2 entries (and not both to one) on the 9 w ballast. Connecting the lamp without a ballast in the path of the current will blow it

Connect the power wire to the source


Actually, you're quite right in step three to advize to work as if the power is still on. Unless you're 1,000% certain the light switch is of the bipolar type (and no, I don't mean it gets depressive occasionally!), simply turning the power off (as you suggest) might very well leave part of the circuit under -- lethal -- power. "Take out circuit breaker" seems like a much more sound first step.
Chill out it's only 120V, not gonna kill you if you aren't soaking wet.
<p>''only 120 VOLTS ac'' will kill you DEAD.</p><p>the typical service to your dorm room lighting circuit is 20 amps at 120 volts. </p><p>AT MINIMUM it would be 15 amps, it only takes 1 tenth of ONE amp to stop a human heart at 120 volts. If it goes through your body in a certain way to hit your nerves that control the heart is the stickler, were usually lucky when it doesnt get ya.</p><p>I'm an industrial electrician, have brushed up against 277 volts with the back of one hand, and let me tell ya, the WORST i've ever felt was working on a light switch in a house at 120 volts. </p>
Like I said, soaking wet. For 1/10 of an Amp to be flowing through your body at 120v you would have to be so conductive that touching a AA battery would provide you with a tangible shock.<br><br>http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/shock.html#c3
you are a nolifer dude...like seriously get a life...
You do realize that you are spending your time commenting on the insignificance of someone else's comment?
The problem with the PL fluorescents which doesn't happen in the CFLs is the bad flicker they have from operating on line frequency directly. This is proven to cause fatigue in many people. The 2 pin PL's are only able to be driven reliably from a magnetic ballast since they have a starter built into the lamp.
Electronic solutions Use 4 pin PL or open the base and connect 2 wires instead of the starter Some electronic ballasts play nice with 2 pin PLs without any hacking Use a CFL Use a CFL ballast with the PL .You need to open the PL and change the starter to the capacitor from the CFL. Ballast from bad CFL (if the ballast is ok) can be used. I have not tried it Magnetic solutions Some PLs flicker more and some less - depends on quality / age / type of phosphor (daylight / cw / etc) To me the cool white lamps seem to have better phosphor than other colors and flicker less Fluorescent lamps flicker less when they are little overpowered. Try to change the ballast up or the lamp down to make 1 - 2 watt mismatch (not enough to make trouble). Sometimes just changing to another ballast of the same watt helps (ballasts are not exactly the same) When operating more than one PL on the same circuit : - Running them in series off one ballast seems to make way more flicker - When running on separate ballast you may add capacitor in series with one of them to change the phase of flickering. This reduces the sum flickering in the room. The value of capacitor is sometimes written on the ballast. Use only capacitor of the exact value - approximations are not tolerated as in PFC capacitors DC solution You can run the PL on DC. I dont recommend this - fluorescents dont like DC
if the cfl dies suddenly it is usually a bad ballast. if the cfl is dim the cap on the ballast is bad(but can be repaired) if the cfl strobes and flashes it is a bad tube and the ballast is ok. if the cfl dosen't turn on one day the gas has got out of the tube. if the tube lights dimly the tube is usually dead and the ballast will work (the ballast may burnout if left on for more than 3mintes)
Don't want to sound rude, but I think your mods are bit silly. The original lamps have very high efficiency. In you want to improve them, just change the ballast (not add another one), change the tubes for better ones or also choose them with lower power output. The little 9w lamp is just the same technology as the old ones.
i dont want to sound like you but if you would read this instructable BEFORE you comment on it you'd see that its exactly about changing the ballast and the tubes

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