Introduction: Modern Farm Table With Hairpin Legs for Under $200

Picture of Modern Farm Table With Hairpin Legs for Under $200

Farm tables seem to be pretty popular this year, so I figured I'd go ahead an build one for our house. After trying to find good deals on reclaimed wood to use, I decided to go the opposite direction and save money by using the cheapest wood, pine.

Building the table was also one of the easiest and quickest projects that I've done. The longest part of the build was putting on the clear coat, since I let each coat dry for 24hrs. The actual table top itself was built within a few hours. The final size is 60" long x 36" wide x 30" high.

Here's what you'll need to buy:

  • 5 - 2" x 10" x 10' (Actual size is 1.5" x 9.25" x 10') pieces of pine (take your time getting the nicest, and straightest pieces you can). If you can get this in 8' long pieces then go for that.
    • ****If you don't have a table saw then you'll want to get 4 pieces and 2, 2"x4"x8' boards
  • 1 - 1" x 3" x 8' (Actual size is 0.718" x 2.437" x 8') ***Or use scrap wood you have sitting around, this is just for bracing the bottom of the table
  • Quart of Stain (your choice)
  • Quart of Clear coat (up to you what type of finish you want)
  • A few brushes to apply the stain and clear coat
  • Drop cloth to put under your table top when staining or clear coating (unless you don't care if it drips on your floor)
  • Sand Paper 60 - 400 grit
  • 12 - 1" Pan head wood screws (to attach the legs)
  • Box of 2.5" wood screws (to build the table top)
  • 4-Hairpin Legs (there's a ton to choose from on Etsy)

****You'll have to adjust the sizing and amount of screws depending on what wood you decide to use. It is also to measure and cut along the way instead of doing it all upfront, in case the wood you get or have is slightly different in size.

Tools and such:

  • Chop saw or circular saw
  • Table saw (optional)
  • Palm or some sort of powered hand sander
  • A bottle of beer (or a few)
  • Drill
  • Hammer and other random items to distress your table surface.

Step 1: Cut Wood

Picture of Cut Wood

Your measurements will change depending on what size you want your table to be. I made mine 60" x 36".

  • Start by cutting 4 of the 2" x 10" pieces to 60" in length.
  • Next take your remaining piece and cut it in 2" strips, using a table saw, this is going to be used for the frame around the bottom of the table.
    • If you don't have a table saw you can use 2" x 4" boards. The dimensions of all the bracing underneath will need to be adjusted based off which boards you use. I chose to cut my own to make sure all the wood matched.

Step 2: Build the Table Top

Picture of Build the Table Top
  • Layout the 4 pieces of wood side by side with whichever side you want to be the bottom, facing up.
  • If you have big enough clamps you can clamp your wood to ensure nothing shifts while working on it, if not then I wouldn't worry too much about it.
  • Cut 2 of the 2" strips to the length of your table (60")
  • Using 2.5" wood screws attach these pieces on the bottom side of the table along the length of it.
  • Now you'll need to cut the 2" strips so they fit width ways in between the strips you just screwed onto the table.
  • Cut two piece of the 1" x 3" x 8' to fit the width inside the frame as well and attach to the bottom using 1.5" screws. You could also use 2" x 4"s for this instead or any scrap wood.

****The pictures of the bottom of the table are after it was finished, I forgot to take some pictures at this point.

Step 3: Now for the Fun Part!

Picture of Now for the Fun Part!
  • Flip your table top over and use any type of tools to hit the top of the table, giving it a distressed look. I used different hammers and the bottom of beer bottles. Be careful not to break the bottles when hitting the table.
  • Once your finished use a palm or orbital sander to sand the top and sides of the table, starting with 60 grit, and work your way to 220 grit.

Step 4: Stain Your Table

Picture of Stain Your Table

Use whichever stain you'd like, and brush it onto all the surfaces of your table. The stain really brings out the marks / distressed look you put into the surface and helps the table to not look like cheap pine any more.

Step 5: Clear Coat the Table Top

Picture of Clear Coat the Table Top
  • After your stain dries, apply multiple coats of clear coat to the table top on all surfaces. I ended up putting on about 5 coats and chose to go with a glossy look.
  • In between each coat use 400 grit or higher sandpaper to take off any roughness left by the brush or bubbles.

***For drying time and the exact grit of sandpaper to use, just follow the instructions on your can of clear coat.

Step 6: Attach Your Hairpin Legs

Picture of Attach Your Hairpin Legs
  • Once dry, flip your table over so you can access the bottom to attach the legs
  • Take one of your hairpin legs, and butt it into the corner corner of table. Attach using 1" pan head wood screws.
  • Repeat with the remaining 3 legs.
  • Once the legs are attached flip your table over and start using it!

Comments

SergeE (author)2017-03-22

Has the table 'moved' in any way since ? By this I mean has there been any twisting forces at play from the 2x, even once glued together to make table ?

Great looking table, by the way.

stevereiser (author)SergeE2017-03-22

I used only screws, and not glue when building the table, but no it has not moved in any way, at least nothing visible. It looks the same as the day I finished it. Only small issue I've ran into is there are a few rough spots on the wood, that I should have sanded down a little better. When I wipe it clean after meals the towel tends to get snagged.

SergeE (author)stevereiser2017-03-22

I'll have to give it a try ... I am always afraid the wood would warp after a while. Years ago we had someone build us a table and the thing split and cracked like mad so I never dared give it a try myself. He used only glue, now that I think of it ...

uncle frogy (author)2016-12-15

sorry if this sounds critical but what you show pictured appears to be Douglas fir the most commonly available framing , construction lumber and not pine. Pine in that dimension is a little harder to find though for the look it might be worth it. fir might be more durable compared to some species of pine and a good deal cheaper. sugar pine is very easy to work with but costly and hard to get in that size for example.

uncle frogy

stevereiser (author)uncle frogy2017-03-22

Doesnt hurt to be critical.. I double checked and you are right it was fir. Pretty much the cheapest 2x4s you can buy at any big box store.

celesteb18 (author)2016-12-15

Thank you for the instructions for making this. I'm going to make a shorter version to fit the small dining room we have.

therewillbeblood (author)2016-12-15

Do the hairpin legs have enough stiffness to keep the table stable on the hardwood floor without scooting around when bumped? I have an IKEA table that is nowhere nearly as heavy, but it's hairpin legs wobble and are unstable on the hardwood floor, especially as people are scooting in/out from the table in their chairs.

do_Ob (author)2016-12-15

Do you think it would need additional support in the middle if the table were made 9 feet long? I want to make one but i'm not sure if the wood is thick enough for such a long table.

mlawing (author)2016-12-14

Nice work!

woodbywright (author)2016-12-13

Beautiful! simple and eligant.

Captain Tight-Pants (author)2016-12-12

Yep, I'm making this next week. Thanks for the 'ible!!!

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