We were looking for a way to save money on modern standoff house numbers (which can cost up to $50 per number online).

We decided to use what we already had left over after our project, a half empty box of screws!

The beauty of this project is it can be installed anywhere, by anyone and your numbers can be done in whatever font, style and color that best fits your home!

Step 1: Materials and Tools

All you need to get started is:
- a driver (handheld screwdriver works fine, but a power driver will make quicker work)
- a box of stainless steel/exterior screws (i used number 8 at 1 5/8")
- a printed set of numbers to use as a template (more on this in the next step)
- a hammer, rock or blunt object to tap the screws.

y en el local
<p>What program can i use to Make the Design 901B ?<br>Do we need to purchase software to make this design&gt;<br>Any size screws will work?</p>
<p>You can use just about any spreadsheet software. I used Excel. I just changed the cell sizes to match the head size of my screws which were 0.4875&quot; Then I just played with the grid pattern, looked at some LCD fonts and filled my cells with single character. Once I had it laid out the way I wanted, I set the cell properties to have an &quot;X&quot; through them, which in Excel at least is a function of the borders.</p><p>The question of screw sizes will depend on how big you want your numbers to be and how much you want to spend on fasteners. I felt lucky to find them at $10/lb and spent $60.</p>
<p>Hey awesome project!! i cant wait to try it. How did you change your Excel measurement to 0.4875? arent the Excell spread sheets colums measures in width/height?</p>
<p>This part was frustratingly confusing. First put Excel into Page Layout mode. Then the next trick is you can't change both height and width at the same time. So first highlight a bunch of rows only and right click and change height. Use the double-quotation notation for the number so Excel knows you mean inches, so: 0.4875&quot; Then do the exact same thing for the columns. I then used a big capital &quot;O&quot; to &quot;draw&quot; my numbers in the cells. You can then use a function in Excel to count the number of cells that have an &quot;O&quot; in them to calculate your needed number of screws. Then use the border functions under cell properties and let Excel draw a big &quot;X&quot; corner to corner in your &quot;used&quot; cells so the intersection will be exactly where you place your holes. Print, tape, nail, drill and screw!</p>
<p>Hi, thanks so much for this, it was a great project and fortunately enough we just happened to need numbers for our new house! I'll warn everyone, stainless steel screws are not cheap. I found them at a surplus discounter for $10/lb for #12 1.5&quot; screws. I really appreciate the inspiration, it really adds some unique character to the home!</p>
<p>What program did you use to a line up all the screws?</p>
<p>Hi there! I just used MS Excel. I changed the cell width/height to 0.4875&quot; which matches the head size of my screws. Then I used the cell format border options to draw an &quot;X&quot; through the cells that comprise my numbers. Print this off with no scaling and tape this to your piece of wood. Then just take a nail and go over the whole thing tapping the nail into the wood just a little bit at the center of your X's. This creates your grid on the wood. I then went back over it with a small drill bit and drilled a little pilot hole so when I screwed the screw in, it wouldn't split the wood. Hope this helps, and good luck!</p>
<p>Great Idea! The lower number's the one I got up to speed with. The Upper one was much more consistent. Thanks!</p>
<p>Made one.</p><p>Great idea, thanks for sharing!</p>
<p>Made one.</p><p>Great idea, thanks for sharing!</p>
<p>I've made it! Thanks a lot for the idea!!!</p>
<p>Many thanks for the inspiration! This post really triggered me to start on my first project! http://www.instructables.com/id/Modern-Stainless-Steel-Home-Numbers-DIY/</p>
That's quite cool I like it. Out of a simple item
<p>...and for those without a screwdriver, you could do the outline in various types of rocks, stones, plastic stuff, etc. and then pour resin over it. Punch tiny holes in the border of the letters after printing them and then use powder to create the outline on your substrate.</p>
<p>Cool idea. I might point out that TrueType and other fonts will render inside a word processor at full page size. Just use one letter and expand it to fill the page or whatever size then laser print or inkjet or even dotmatrix print.</p>
<p>Brilliant work mate, nice one. Itching to try this.....</p><p>Wonder how it would look with nails?</p>
<p>I'm wondering the same thing about my brass shells collected from the shooting range. </p>
<p>.22's, 1/4 inch holes and a little glue.</p><p>3/8th dowels instead of screws with .45 shells slid over and glued</p>
<p>just keep in mind how many shells that actually is. a simple item even as this will easily be at least 10 wide and 15 tall per character, that's 150 shots for just one number... Buuuut, assuming you have that many, it would look really cool!</p>
<p>Brilliant Concept and beautifully orchestrated. Congratulations. Truly interesting. </p>
<p>Great idea! As a graphic designer, I would recommend using &quot;pixel&quot; or &quot;bitmap fonts&quot; for this type of application, with anti-aliasing disabled. I think you would get the best results, since these type of fonts a specifically designed to look good when &quot;pixelated.&quot; You can find many free bitmap fonts here: http://www.dafont.com/bitmap.php</p>
If you want to get really fancy you could leave the anti aliasing &quot;on&quot; and use smaller screws or screws at a lower height for the smoothing. Obviously on a scrap bit of wood to test!
<p>This would drive me nuts, I would HAVE to align all the little crosses in the screw head, but then all the heads wouldn't be the same perfect height in the correlation to the wood...I have problems...</p>
I was thinking the same thing myself. So you're not the only one with &quot;problems&quot; and &quot;issues&quot;... :)
<p>I really like this idea, wish I'd seen it before I went out and bought numbers for my house. One thing though, since I'm a little OCD, it would drive me freaking crazy if all of the slots / squares / crosses in the screws weren't all oriented in the direction.</p>
<p>on a plank,drill larger holes, all the way through, that the screw/nail will slide into with some resistance.</p><p>lay <br> the plank on a smooth hard surface,dip the screw/nail in glue, push the screws/nails in till they won't go in anymore, align <br>the slots/squares/crosses till your happy, let the glue set.</p><p> just make sure the screw/nail is 2 or 3 (or whatever) times longer than the plank is thick</p>
<p>Love it! When I build my house in a few years, I'm going to do this for the house number</p>
ingenious! thanks for sharing!
<p>Not all woods, plywoods and wood products can take the stress of a #12 screw insertion at a rate of 16 per square inch--and when you tire of it or a metal scraper armed with a 24 volt driver and a bad attitude steals them, you'll have a mess to deal with. This is certainly something to be placing on a panel that you can remove when the time comes--don't wreck your house--or your landlords'.</p><p>Very nice by the way, you can create contoured sculptures of sorts with various nail types that produce undulating tones when brushed by hand. There's a large mural of this sort in the main entrance of Toronto's City Hall ( the City Hallbuilt in the 60's) or there was last time i checked 20 years ago.</p>
blah blah blahhhhhhh yarrrp zzzzzzz
<p>yada yada yada</p>
<p>u r just awesoooome ! like it :D</p>
<p>You could get some interesting effects by varying the screw heights too.</p>
<p>While attractive, this application pretty much destroys the wood. As mentioned by someone else, it breaks the paint surface. The unprotected holes in the wood allows moisture and vermin to penetrate into the wood, causing rot and decay. In cool climates the freeze-thaw effects will expand the holes around the screws, and probably lead to water penetration into the wall.</p><p>Drilling the screws in without a pilot hole will also expand the surface of the wood, causing the outside of the wood to expand, and thus causing the wood to cup.</p><p>The best best is NOT to use the house siding. Use another piece of wood, drill pilot holes, paint, then install the screws.</p>
<p>great job</p>
<p>and using vintage 8-bit computer font you can make it even nicer.</p>
<p>Nice! An industrious numbering system.</p>
<p>I like the idea, and I see a lot of potential for alternatives to get added in. Of course other fonts, but there's a lot of deck screws on the market that come pre-painted in several different colors.</p><p>I think I would use long deck screws to hold fender washers on top of short lengths of plastic tubing, cut from a bulk length of PVC or whatever can handle being outdoors in the sun.</p><p>To keep the screws, or nails, from rusting the wood, maybe it would be a good idea to use some of that recycled plastic lumber used for decks and fencing? At the very least, don't just screw a ton of steel directly into your house! Use a few of the screws to attach a board for a decorative/protective backplate &amp; sink all your number screws into the board. That way, you can paint the backplate a basic black or whatever makes for a nice contrast to the screwheads. And if you have a more diabolical bent, you could run the screws from the backside of the board so the pointy ends are facing outwards!</p>
<p>Ouch! :-) But Shadetree's diabolical suggestion would certainly keep pesky sales people from leaning on your door numbers.</p>
My only concern would be that by putting the screws directly into the side of the house, you run the risk of compromising the water tightness of the house's siding. Using a seperate plaque of wood seems far safer for the structural integrity of your home!
<p>Excellent idea, thank you! :)</p>
<p>looks really nice!</p>
<p>awesome idea! Taking the time to lay it down on paper shows on the finished product. </p>
<p>Fantastic Intractable. I made a wall plaque for my kids for Christmas of their house numbers. My son's wife loved it. I used a gold cabinet screw that was had a flat bottom. When I did the first layer I kept noticing the little gaps between the screws so I then put a screw in each rectangular gap. Therefore this is a double layer of screws which makes it quite heavy but gives a very solid look. My wood was splitting because of the extra screws so I attached a piece of plywood on the back and bolted them together to solve that issue. When I do one for my house I will layer plywood together and pretrial a number of the holes to avoid the splits. Beautiful look and will look great outside my kids home. Thanks</p>
<p>One other thing I forgot to add: Incompetech.com has a excellent website for graph papers that I used to create my numbers. The papers can be made with any distance between the centers and was very helpful in setting up my design.</p>
<p>Great Job!!!! </p><p>Being financially challenged as well, I decided to cut 12&quot; high numbers from Baltic Birch ply</p><p><a href="http://d-dsouza.blogspot.ca/2010/06/doing-number-on-house.html" rel="nofollow">http://d-dsouza.blogspot.ca/2010/06/doing-number-o...</a></p>

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