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This Instructable will show the steps to creating a modern looking speaker stand.

I purchased a pair of Definitive Technology StudioMonitor 55 speakers that were in desperate need for some stands. I initially had them on a record cabinet that was uneven and too close together. I searched for a while looking for stands that would fit the SM55s but non really exist. And the DIY online did not fit the aesthetics of the speaker. I finally found a pair that has aluminum with a piano black finish that matches the speakers well. For $3500 I could purchase a pair of Langerton 2.0. Seeing that I had access to a machine shop I could replicate these stands.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

9”x120”x2” Maple

ø2” solid Aluminum

Wood glue

Hanger bolts ¼ x 20 x 2 - 8 each

Phillips Drive #10x1/4 Flat Head wood screw zinc - 8 each

Socket Flat Head 1/4x20x 1¼ - 12 each

Clamps

Combination square / ruler

Calipers

hack saw machine

Table saw

Miter saw

Planer

Jointer

Belt sander

Lathe

Steady rest

Lathe dog

Milling machine

½” end mill

drill bits

Step 2: Design

Created an assembly in Creo / Pro-E to get the dimensions. I used 2" thick maple for the top and bottom and 2" diameter aluminum bars. I designed two different feet, one for carpet that is cone shaped and one that is flat made for tile or wood. I initially wanted the top to have a cut out for the speaker to sit in but eventually decided against it and have the top flat. To attach it all together, the top will have a plate inserted inside it that screws to the legs and to the top.

Step 3: Cutting Wood and Metal

I used a hack saw machine to cut the ø2” solid Aluminum for the legs and feet. I cut them a little over 23.5” for the legs and a little over 2” for the feet. There are 6 legs and 16 feet. Next, I ran the wood through a planer and cut three 17” long pieces for the base. One of the 17” board was cut in half and glued to the other board and clamped overnight. The top was cut into a board 30” long and sent through the planer and jointer and then cut to the desired length.

Step 4: Creating the Legs

First step was to face one side using the lathe. Since the legs are long I used a steady rest at one end, about 2" from the edge with a heavy amount of grease. After one side was faced I could measure the length to be 23.5”. I put it back into the steady rest and faced it until it measured 23.5”. Next, center drilled both ends 1.25” in and manually thread it to fit a 10-24 screw. To side the metal for a nice finish, a lathe dog was attached.

Step 5: Creating the Feet

Same process for the feet as the legs; used a lathe to face one side. After one side was faced I measured 1.5” from the flat side. After they were measured, the other side needed to be faced. Once the wood/tile legs were faced the carpet feet needed to be spiked. Since the stands are gonna be heavy I did not want it to be sharp, so there is a flat part at the end of the feet. The lathe was oriented with the bit to be 45° to the feet. The flat part was still a little too big so using calipers, the flat part was measured to be 25cm. Next, the ends needed to be side and cut to the desired length and then threaded. Ideally, should be faced, threaded, side and then cut to 1.5".

Step 6: Creating the Top, Base, Insert Plate

Top

I needed to bore out the underside of the top to fit the plate that will hold the legs so I attached it to the mill. Scrap wood pieces were placed on the side with clamps so it would not leave a mark. To make sure it was even, a combination square was used on the side so when moving the mill it would cut straight vertically and horizontally. A ½” end mill was used and set to go ½” into the bottom of the wood.

Insert Plate

Next, I needed to make the plate that would go inside so a 1” thick board was used. I planed it to 7/16”, cut to fit inside the top and used a belt sander to round the corners. To make sure that the legs would fit properly to each top and bottom plate a stencil was made using sheet metal with holes placed where they would be drilled to the legs. This was traced to the inside plate and bottom piece. Drilled holes for a #10 wood screw for the plate corners that will screw into the top and counter sunk, drilled holes for the 1/4x20 socket flat head.

Bottom

Using the stencil marks I drilled the socket flat head and on the under side to allow for screwing them into the legs. Drilled for the hanger bolts for the feet. Chamfer the edges and corners for the top, insert plate and bottom.

Step 7: Assembly

Started with the feet and worked my way up. Screwed hanger bolt to the feet and then to the base. Screwed the pillars into the base plate with hanger bolts. Then the insert plate onto pillar using the socket flat head and then screwed the insert to the top using the wood screw.

Sent it off to get professionally finished in piano black.

Step 8: Final Look

Came out exactly like I envisioned.

Wow. That looks horrible. JK JK. Love you Ryan. Looks dope :).

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