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The purpose of this modification is to add approximately 10ft shot range to the Jolt EX-1 blaster.

For this modification you will need the following:
Jolt EX-1 Nerf Blaster
Needle nose pliers
Flat head screw driver
Phillips screw driver
small container to keep screws in
Spring - ours was obtained from a LongShot front gun
this spring needs to be approximately 2.5 - 3 inches long and a diameter of about a nickle. The gauge of the spring wire is approximately 14 gauge or .0747 inches.

The cost of this modification is very low. All tools should be readily available, and no specialized tools are needed. The costs are shown below;
Jolt EX-1 Blaster - $6.50
Spring - $1.00
Total - $7.50

The blaster we obtained from ToysRS and the price listed includes tax. The spring that we used was just laying around and thereby free. However a similar spring could easily be obtained from ACE hardware or any other hardware store.

Step 1: Removal of the Bottom Piece of the Blaster

The first step is to remove the four screws from the bottom of the blaster, as pictured above. Place these screws in a small container as they will be used to reassemble the blaster.

Step 2: Removal of Priming Rod

Next pull the priming rod and spring mechanism out, which has just been freed by removing the screws in the previous step.

Step 3: Removal of Cap Screw on Priming Rod

Remove the screw from the top of the priming rod and place in the small container. Remove the cap from the priming rod.

Step 4: Recap

At this point you should have five screws removed from the blaster. Four screws from the blaster bottom, and the fifth from the priming rod cap.

Step 5: Removal of Spring From Priming Rod

Remove the spring from the priming rod.

Step 6: Thread Second Spring On

Carefully thread a second spring into the spring that was removed from the blaster.

Step 7: Identifying Priming Rod Pieces

Pictured here are the pieces of the priming rod that will be used in the following steps.

Step 8: Rebuilding Priming Rod

Replace the blaster cap onto the priming rod making sure that it is correctly orientated as pictured below. Notice that the priming rod itself is now parallel with the blaster cap. Then put the double spring onto the priming rod and finally the priming rod cap.

Step 9: Completing Priming Rod

Reinsert the priming rod cap screw and tighten til snug.

Step 10: Starting Removal of Air Restrictor

Using a pair of needle nose pliers remove the air re-stricter spring from the inside of the bottom of the gun.

Step 11: Removing Air Restrictor Posts


Using a flathead screwdriver and needle nose pliers break the three posts pictured above from the blaster. This is easily done by first applying pressure on the post with the screwdriver then removing the pieces with the pliers.

Step 12: Removing the Dart Post

Using a flathead screwdriver break the posts connecting the dart post to the barrel of the blaster. Then using a pair of needle nose pliers remove the post.

Step 13: Removing the Remainder of the Air Restrictor


The last construction step is to remove the last of the air re-strictor. This is done by using the previous method of applying pressure with the flathead screwdriver, and then removing the pieces with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Step 14: Reconstructing the Blaster


The last step in this modification is to insert the priming rod into the bottom of the blaster as shown in the first picture below. Pay special attention to the priming rod itself (the Grey plastic piece) to make sure it is orientated appropriately to the blaster bottom cap (the black plastic piece). Then reinserting the four screws into the bottom of the blaster and tightening til snug.

Step 15: The Final Product


Here is your finished blaster!
Thanks for the idea man ! I just began modding and this was my 1st mod !
<p>LoL he put the priming rod on wrong</p>
<p>LMAO</p>
<p>The reason he did that is because for some reason people like the priming rod like that, including me, I just can't get my elite jolt's plunger head off</p>
how strong is that plungerrod? i mean, if i slab on two big sprigs, wont the tension break it in half? if you'd epoxy the thing on all the sides it would be much stronger
<p>the problem is not with the plunger rod its with the catch. the catch will not hold the stringth of a k27 and that has a 67 pound pull. </p>
<p>I thought k26 was max....... hmmm</p>
<p>where did you get the spring?</p>
Unfortunately this guide doesn't work for the new version of the Jolt (Elite colouring). It has no screw at the top of the priming rod, there's solid metal instead. Anyone seen an updated guide for the new Jolt?
just to let you know i made an instructable that is a nerf gun confetti shooter and i said in the description that it works best with a modified nerf jolt, so i led them here. just so you know.
You can obtain a Jolt literally anywhere else for cheaper than that, my usual place to get them is Marshalls. The air restrictor in the Jolt is actually irrelevant to mods unless you want to use Stefans with it, since the darts actually completely disable it when they are pushed to the back of the barrel.
the screws are really tough to unscrew
Skip this step. Many modders who mod the jolt claim that drilling/ removing this part of the air restrictor (removing the post is fine however) actually decreases range. KEEP IT IN.
Its a mixture - you either remove it and increase the cross section through which air can move, or you leave it which reduces the dead-space where the plunger won't go. <br> <br>In a perfect nerf ALL the air in the cylinder would be moved into the space behind the dart by the plunger. <br> <br>I'm tempted to slice one of these along the midline to get a cross-section.