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I got my GoPro Hero3 for Christmas, it is a fantastic camera.  However, the battery life leaves something to be desired.  Sure, you can buy a bunch of spare batteries and change them out periodically, but if you are taking a time lapse - you really do not want to move the camera.

Enter: The Frame

This is GoPro's answer to this problem.  Now you can shoot while being connected to an external power source.  But, wait, $40 for a piece of flimsy plastic (to be fair, TWO pieces of plastic!) with a few holes in the side?  No Thanks.

I really wanted this capability, but didn't want to spend a lot of money or sacrifice the poly case by drilling a hole in the side.

Enter: Modify a Mini-B USB Cable to Power an Enclosed GoPro Hero3 (With Skeleton Back Door) (This Instructable)

Disclaimer:  Perform this at your own risk, I take no responsibility for your actions and assume you have some competency. With that being said, this instructable is merely a cable modification, I do not modify the camera or case.



Step 1: Parts/Tools

You will need:

Parts-
-A Mini-B USB cable of your desired length.  I found an old 3-footer in my spare cables tub.  I might suggest not using the one included with your GoPro (just in case...).  Note: I have a Hero3 Black Edition which uses a Mini-B. I do not know what the Hero2 (or whatever) uses.  Also, of course, your cable design may be slightly different.
-Glue...?  I used some, it may not be needed though...

Tools-
-Wire Strippers/Cutters.  Not that you will be stripping wires explicitly - but you will need to cut off the black plastic molding around the connector and trim back the cable sheath.
-Long Nose Pliers.  For general dismantlement and metal bendage.
-Small Rotary Cutting Tool.  I use a really cheap one from Harbor Freight.  Yes, it is cheaply made and doesn't have a lot of power, but hey its like $10 on sale.
Hi there!<br>I can say this won't work with the hero 3+ silver (please say it in your ible for future makers). I made this modification and it does not fit in the casing of the hero 3+ silver.
<p>The Hero 3 and Hero 3+ utilize the same housing. Is the Hero 3+ wider than the Hero 3?</p>
<p>They certainly do not use the same housing! The camera itself is the same size, the housing is not. ( see the picture )</p>
<p>Ah ha. The Hero 3 and Hero 3+ are originally packaged with different housings, but the GoPro website only shows the Hero 3+ housing now (which is also compatible with the Hero 3). The Hero 3+ housing seems to be noticeably slimmer than the Hero 3. Thanks for bringing this to our attention!</p>
<p>Or just some shrink wrap.</p>
Awesome! I think that you can use Sugru to cover the exposed wires and make it look nicer. Anyways, awesome instructable. I doing this one definitely
<p>Or just some shrink wrap.</p>
Maybe so but it is definitely a tight fit without modding the case! In fact, I was not worried about strain relief because the case kind of crimps down on those wires.
<p>Awesome! I think that you can use Sugru to cover the exposed wires and make it look nicer. Anyways, awesome instructable.</p>
<p>I made this mod in about ten minutes. The Skeleton case provides sufficient strain relief so that the USB cable doesn't need any more support. The only tools I needed were an xacto knife, a teeny flatblade screwdriver and a teeny pair of pliars. Instead of sawing off the excess metal case on the connector I just folded 1/16&quot; of metal over with pliars until it would fit inside the case without modification. Kept the watertight case back in case I need pictures of fish - one other similar instructible contemplates drilling holes in your case which is definitely not necessary. I should be able to keep the Gopro inside its case permanently, pulling off pics by wifi and charging by this hacked cable. </p>
<p>im prety sure it dosent matter, but i might be wrong.</p>
<p>It looks like you've peeled back the sheathing as well. Normally that is connected to the metal enclosure around the pins and presumably grounded. What should I conclude from this? Should it matter for this project?</p>
<p>Excellent picture of the finished assembly. This is helping me.</p>
Thats phenomenal
It looks like you've peeled back the sheathing as well. Normally that is connected to the metal enclosure around the pins and presumably grounded. What should I conclude from this? Should it matter for this project?
Most likely it will not matter at all, especially if you are purely using it for charging. Pulling the shield back could introduce some extra noise, yes, but I doubt anything noticeable. Just don't use the cable near any strong, high frequency magnetic fields or high voltages. :)
Great success! thnx for this tutorial! i'm still looking for a way to have both livestream to my computer and charging at the same time. using the 10.5.5.9:8080 way seems to be the only way...
Excellent picture of the finished assembly. This is helping me.
Awesome!!!

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