These cameras can be purchased from ebay for a little as $15.  They are great for security cameras as they have a wide viewing angle and clear image however out of the box the camera comes with a trapezoidal grid superimposed on the video signal and the video image mirrored. These instructions will show how to disable the superimposed image and reverse the video signal.

Disable superimposed image:
First step is to expose the circuit board and locate the SOIC-8 EEPROM (Microchip 24C04A) IC as shown in figure 1. Note that this may look different for each camera. (I had 2 identical model cameras with different circuit boards)

Pin-5 is the serial data connection (SDA) which programs the trapezoidal image on startup. Use a solder iron to pull up this pin as shown in figure 1. Note, if the image is ever desired one could place a switch on these connections however the distance would be limited due to I2C standards.

At this point power the unit up to verify the superimposed image has been removed. If the image is still present check for a small bridge between the pin and the pad or try removing the pin entirely.

Reversing Video signal:
The PC1030D image sensor is actually a very feature rich sensor. The manufacturer has a built in image reversing feature by placing logic 0 or 1 on a data pin. Depending on the circuit board this pin may be accessible from the back of the board however in my case I had one that was and one that was not. The green wire in figure 1 is connected to the reversing pin and 3.3V. Some models also have an external wire for this so check the instructions before completing this step.

If you model does not already have a wire for this or it does not look exactly like the image in figure 1 you will need to access the pin directly from the PC1030D image sensor. Remove the 2 small screws that retain the lens housing. DO NOT TOUCH THE SENSOR. Oils from your skin will smear the image and attempts to clean it will result in scratches. Figure 2 shows the front of the image sensor.

Unfortunately, no discernible markings to indicate a “pin1” (which is in the middle of the chip) could be found, however the image sensor itself does help indicate pin position. Rotate the camera until the image sensor looks the same as figure 2. The orange distance measure indicates the sensor is slightly more to the right. Also, note the difference in the gold wires from the orange and green circles. Use these as road marks to orient your sensor. Once it is in the same orientation as figure 2, the pin you want is the third in from the left as indicated by the meter probe. You have two choices from this point; either carefully solder a small wire to the pin or try to locate this pin on the other side of the board using a continuity meter. If you solder to the pin, make sure to cut a very small notch out of the lens housing to make room for the wire. A fraction of a millimeter will cause the camera to be out of focus when reassembled. If the image is blurry after completion this is the likely cause. Solder the other end of the wire to the 3.3V pin.

Reassemble the lens housing using very little torque on the screws as they strip easily. Now, power the camera up and confirm operation. If the image is not reversed check the connections and make sure there are no solder bridges between the adjacent pins on the image sensor.

Additional Note:
If the camera will be hard wired and the composite connectors removed it is important to know the 3.3V voltage regulator is located in the wire as shown in figure 3.

It is disguised as a ferrite connection but inside is a linear 3.3V regulator. This may not be true for all models however take precaution before removing.
<p>In my camera, removing the pin 5 or grounding it didnt help. But I realized there were places on the board marked 2 and 3. I connected 2 to ground and now it works. I suspect the &quot;green wire&quot; is probably connected to ground also? I don't know what 3 does. I grounded it and it did not seem to do anything useful (I wonder if I should have connected 2 and 3 together? I didn't test it and now I can't anymore. Never the less, it works now without grid lines!</p>
<p>First off thanks to bbarenz for the nice instructable and to AndrisG for the idea to go the other route. Mine was even easier. After taking my license plate camera (Amazon $13 with 2.4ghz tx/rx) apart and removing the board from the casing I saw the green wire that AndrisG mentioned. </p><p>1st) I extended the green wire first putting some shrink tubing (green) by soldering a black wire to it.</p><p>2nd) The back of the camera board was labeled by the solder points and one read OSD. At first I thought this was to add an OSD, but after reading this instructable it was easy enough to deduce what I did next.</p><p>3rd) Solder the now extended green wire (now it's black, I was out of green) to the solder point labeled OSD. I hooked it up to my monitor and bingo no more lines covering the picture.</p><p>Now if there was only a way to fix the Mandela Effect....cause that's messing with everything...</p><p>Min</p>
<p>Please be careful and check what exactly chip your camera has. I had 2 of these cameras both identical on the outside. They both had different circuit boards and chips. The first camera I tried lifting the pin didn't help , I completely removed the chip and it still changed nothing(it was a similar eprom chip). In the end I shorted it accidentally while checking my progress and killed it.</p><p> The second camera had a marked circuit board for the mirror and grid lines. I removed one smd resistor to stop the grid lines. For the mirrored image I had to remove the smd resistor (not easy on a tightly spaced board). This did not change it, I had to place a new resistor in the adjacent space. My smd resistors were too large so I had to solder a 10k through hole instead Then heat shrink and glue to prevent shorts. That was even less fun than removing them too start with.</p><p>Thanks to bbarenz and all the posters on instructables.</p>
<p>Hi everybody.</p><p>I appreciate that this is very old post however I have solution that could help to remove these annoying grid lines on some parking cameras. Before I start I have to say that this could/could not work on some cameras but it is worth to try as it works for me but not with all cams. </p><p>There you go- I bought many different parking cams as I wanted to install them as CCTV- mainly because they are small and have a wide viewing angle. Once connected I found that grid lines are too annoying and started to playing around to remove them. Solution is very simple.</p><p>Every cam once opened have three wires going to board. Yellow, Green, Red. All you need to do is </p><p>1.) Turn the camera power off. (its has to be done otherwise grid lines will not going to disappear)</p><p>2.) locate GREEN wire </p><p>3.) connect small piece of wire to existing green wire or solder your wire where GREEN cable meets board</p><p>4.) connect other end to one of microchip pins. !!! Don't be afraid- theres is nothing to burn. I did it many times and few cameras are still working as CCTV without grid lines). Keep trying one pin at time. Turn the power on. If lines are still there- turn power off and try another pin until you will find them gone on turning on power on camera.</p><p>That's it- simply connect GREEN wire to one pin.</p><p>Sorry I can't attach photo- it's invalid for some reason but good luck to you all.</p>
I have. couple of these with out any wires what can I do to get them to work do I need to make so.ethjng with a 3.3v regulator
<p>Thank you!! Worked like a charm.</p>
<p>Here is some NEW CCD/CMOS (II), 420 lines, 656x492. OSD (On-Screen-Display) parking grid can be removed by desoldering SDA and SCL resistor (one of them or both), location is showed with GREEN arrow. Pink arrow is NC (Not-Connected) pin on board (probably VCC or GND- I did not measure voltage). RED arrow shows PIN_3 from front side where is located CCD. </p><p>OSD is removed, but I can&acute;t find MIRROR pin. If somebody know solution ([D7]_PIN_3 don&acute;t work!) or any other explanation please POST!</p>
<p>cmos PC7030K ver1 ?</p>
<p>Foto new ver 7030 <a href="http://radikal.ru/fp/26af258e823540e6923af44c664b38fd" rel="nofollow">http://radikal.ru/fp/26af258e823540e6923af44c664b3...</a></p><p>Where to find the datasheet?</p><p>[URL=http://www.radikal.ru]http://s010.radikal.ru/i311/1501/1f/2372d45f0979.jpg[/IMG][/URL]</p>
<p>Do you happen to know where to find the SPI programming guide for the CMOS sensor? It'd be great to figure out a way to overlay the time onto the image using the PIC controller.</p><p>Also, do you know of a way to dissolve the black stuff that they used for waterproofing?</p><p>Thanks!!</p>
<p>I haven't dug into it at all but this looks like it has the register map and protocol information. Let me know if you come up with anything that sounds like a really cool idea! <br></p><p><a href="http://www.electronics123.net/amazon/datasheet/MT9V011.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://www.electronics123.net/amazon/datasheet/MT9...</a></p>
<p>Excellent post!</p><p>Question, is the EEPROM solely for adding lines to the display? If so, can it be removed entirely?</p>
Yes, pulling the CE pin up was just to make it easy. You could remove the whole chip if you like.
<p>Here is PC1030D old version. EEPROM is 24C08 you can desolder complete memory chip. Pin 3 is MIRROR pin like in old post.</p>
<p>I have solution for CMOS II version 420 lines, soon I will put explanation with detail photos for I2C and mirror pin. Effective Pixel: 656x492</p>
<p><strong>Disable superimposed image:</strong></p><p>Lifting Pin5 on Microchip 24C08 worked perfectly on my China camera</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>Great article, I have also been playing around with these Chinese reversing cameras, sadly mine did not use the same CCD as mentioned here, mine looks like a knock-off OV7959. anyway in this case the memory was a 512 byte SPI EEPROM, I read the data (hoping at the time it was a PC1030D) in an aim to configure the registers to remove the mirror feature with software. anyway, the data in the EEPROM did not tie up with the PC1030D data sheet so I removed the CCD from the board and found the part number on the rear, it reads SD07959, I cant find a data sheet anywhere so I examined the PCB and noticed inputs to the CCD pulled up or down with 10K resistors, I removed them one by one and found the input that mirrors the CCD video output. I have attached pictures for reference. Thanks again for posting this it has been very helpful! (third picture shows my notes on the pad connections, I cant guarantee anything as I don't have the data sheet, I/O shows what look to be the digital inputs to configure hard wired options, notice the resistor that has two possible positions next to the crystal in the second photo, I guess this is for NTSC or PAL configuration).</p>
The datasheet for the EEPROM can be found here: <br>http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=1&amp;ved=0CCYQFjAA&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fww1.microchip.com%2Fdownloads%2Fen%2Fdevicedoc%2F11183F.pdf&amp;ei=i-DUTvKBAuyCsgKE7pCLDw&amp;usg=AFQjCNHSREVZYuFNBaVJS-frCZGuzA-L5A<br><br>For the Image Sensor here: <br>http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=1&amp;ved=0CBwQFjAA&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pixelplus.co.kr%2Fboard%2Fdownload.php%3Fboard_table%3Dpixelplus_products_analogsensor%26board_idx%3D22%26file_no%3D&amp;ei=4OPUTuLRBqSGsAKAzLi3Dw&amp;usg=AFQjCNHr5bHOS09Gtj1d6M1yLF1_MRdPQA<br>

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