(http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/MP-SC37/Grass-Soft-Close) that would allow the door to soft-close but the scissor hinge that came installed on the panel wouldn't work with the damper. I decided to swap the original hinge with a "euro"-style hinge but had to limit its 110 degree opening range to about 45 degrees.
I noticed that euro-style hinges had two "leaves" that got closer together as the hinge opened and decided to insert a screw through one of the leaves to stop the motion where I wanted it.
(The photos were taken after the fact so the hole is already there and threaded.)
Step 1: Stuff I Used
2 Euro-style self-closing hinges;
9/32" drill and 8-32 tap; *
(2) 8-32 screws. One per hinge;
an 8-32 nut to chase (clean up) the threads after shortening the screw;
a soft-close damper; **
drill, screwdriver, wrench (for tapping);
hacksaw and locking pliers (for holding the screw during cutting/filing/grinding).
I also modified a 1-3/8" (35 mm) spade bit to bore the flat-bottomed holes for the hinge pockets. A drill press is REAL handy for this step Any local cabinet shop is already set up to bore these holes. I only did this to see if it would work. It'd be cheaper and easier to take it to a shop.
* I already had a 8-32 tap from some previous long ago project and some 8-32 screws in the junk box. Sheet metal screws would probably work just fine and you could avoid the tapping.
** I like these damper thingies so much I did all this so I could install another one!
Step 2: The Hinges
By inserting an adjustment screw through one of the leaves I could limit the hinge range.
Step 3: Drilling the Holes
A vice isn't need for this step. I wasn't sure that the screw trick would work so I hadn't bored the hinge pocket holes in the panel yet. Once the holes are bored, they would make highly handy hinge holders.
Step 4: Tapping
Using a sheet metal screw in place of a machine screw should also work. This avoids having to get/have a tap and the tapping.
Step 5: Shorten the Screws
(No, my camera is not that fast. The grinder is off. I'm not that dumb.)
(Tip: Cutting/filing/grinding a screw messes up the threads. if you thread a nut on to a screw before you cut it, unscrewing the nut helps clean up the threads. The nut is used just to clean up the threads and not installed in the project.)
Step 6: Adjust Hinge Travels
This part really isn't a cop-out, but ...
Two precisely-located 35 mm (1-3/8") holes have to bored to accept the hinges. I ground down a spade bit to have a flat bottom and used my drill press to bore the holes. Any cabinet/woodworking shop can bore the hinge holes much cheaper than the cost of the drill bit and labor to modify it. Again, get this done "outside"; I only did it because I wanted to try it.
Set the hinge travel limits before re-installing the panel as the screws aren't accessible after the hinges are assembled.
Step 7: Ahhhhh!
You can see the damper installed in the middle of the opening.