Modular Hydroponics - SkeetaGator - Viewing All Comments

I tried to add a video, but it was invalid so here's the link. Please excuse the music. Youtube wouldn't let me use the original choice, so this is what Youtube picked. It's actually not bad.

Skeetagator on Youtube

This is the love child of two other instructables. The Even Simpler Flood and Drain System - The Mosquito and the Modular Hydroponics - Low Profile Reservoir. Using Gatorade bottles and soft tubing to form a pressure seal, I was finally able to get air and water tight seals between the planters and the drain pipe, sooooooo ....

The unit that I built here is only 19" long, but it should be able to be implemented on a much larger scale easily. As the pipe increases in length, the required volume of air will increase, but not the required pressure. Redundant, individual air pumps would provide the required air, keeping the fill cycle reasonably short, while also providing security against pump failure.

Please also excuse the photos. This was built and tested, rebuilt and tested, rebuilt .........., so the photos describing the steps are of a disassembled, finished unit. My apologies, but it does show how each planter and the reservoir are still separate "modules?", however loosely.

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Step 1: What You Need

skeetagator - what you need tools 002.jpg

1 ea Length of 4" diameter drainage pipe. I used a 19" length of 4" PVC.
2 ea 2L Pop Bottles w/caps(NOT Pepsi)
Gatorade bottles w/caps as req'd
7/16" OD clear Vinyl tubing as req'd (4.75 inches per Gatorade bottle)
1/4" Aquarium air tube as required
1 ea small, self tapping screw

Drill
1/2" Drill bit
1/16" Drill bit
13/64" Drill bit
Hot melt glue gun w/glue
Heat gun
Utility knife
Long pry bar thin enough to fit though the neck of a 2L bottle

pacifcace says: Jul 26, 2009. 9:03 PM

It seems like the reason you insist on using the gatorade bottles is the ease of connecting them into the system and using the size of the inlet to maintain pressure and fill/drain rate, but could you do the same thing using any other bottle (I'm thinking of a 20oz or 1 liter pop bottle) with a 7/16" tube and super glue/silicon sealant to bond the top to the surface of the pipe? I plan to build one of these, but since you have one and obviously have far more experience with them than I do I thought you might be able to tell me from personal experience what you would think of trying something like that before I do it and end up covered in water.

downgrade in reply to pacifcaceJul 10, 2010. 9:28 AM

In my experience, change super glue to plastics epoxy and you should be good to go. Much stronger, and the new stuff (ok I haven't used epoxy in about 10 years, so new to me) sets in under 10 minutes (although give it a day before using it I would say) but says it's not good for submerging, so just put a film of silicone over it to keep the water off and you should be good to go. if your tubing doesn't like glue much so I would recommend going to the hardware store and buying one of the male to male tubing connectors and glue that in the cap, the problem being that it's one more spot for a leak to occur, but you could just add a tube clamp and be fine, just look a little ugly I'm sure.

wiley coyote (author) in reply to pacifcaceJul 28, 2009. 6:59 PM

I'm not very experienced at all ... the experts at the store were only salesmen, so I figured I'd figure it out myself and do it cheaper and more reliable. These are my first attempts actually, and I'm sharing the progress. They've all been successful in there own ways. I actually haven't pursued this design further than testing, and to see the potential. If you can make it watertight and removable without having to twist it, I would say you're good. Just be quick to turn off the air pump in an emergency. I've found that matching a tube to a pre-made nozzle has saved me a lot of hassles. Good Luck.

eyerobot says: Feb 3, 2010. 7:00 PM

I think your designs are great, I have been avoiding hydroponics for the simple reason that i didnt want to purchase a water pump.
But the air pumps are a dime a dozen at thrift stores.

So with your inspiration, I will attempt to tackle this project.

downgrade in reply to eyerobotJul 10, 2010. 9:23 AM

True you can find air pumps for a few bucks, but you can find decent water pumps for 10 to 20 bucks pretty easily if you want to make a larger system (just have to find a place selling them if you are against buying online) but, no problem with going this route either, although you could even just go with the wick system, just need to buy some absorbent rope, or you could do a deep water culture, all that requires is an air pump as well.

wiley coyote (author) in reply to eyerobotFeb 8, 2010. 8:55 PM

Thank you. I had big dreams for this one, but decided to go with only one water tap off the reservoir as an air leak along any of the taps will cause the system to fail. My construction methods are somewhat questionable, however, and could easily be improved upon. I also recommend setting the timer to go off before it starts bubbling and use the bubbling sound as an indication to fill, as the vibrations can get pretty large, and the sound annoying.

If I remember correctly, this one was pretty easy to operate by breath alone, so it could be human powered in a blackout.... an added feature. :)

Good luck.

transimago says: Apr 3, 2009. 5:00 PM

your ideas and designs are great. kudos!! As I don't have a heat gun, I'm looking for alternatives. so, I have 2 questions for you: 1. could a hair drier be used to heat the plastic (would it be hot enough)? 2. since it is necessary to have the air inlet above the water level... could I connect the drain pipe to an elbow, close the other end of the elbow (which would face upwards) with a cap, and drill this cap to place the air hose and valve? I'd appreciate other suggestions... thanks a lot!

wiley coyote (author) in reply to transimagoApr 7, 2009. 12:14 AM

Thanks. 1. Possibly. It would depend on the hair dryer ...... and the thickness of the plastic as well, from what I can see, so try the thinnest possible. 2. The water level would still seek equilibrium and the pressure would still need to be released above the water's surface ..... I think. Other than that and barring unresolvable air locks, I can't see any reason why not. I'm currently "working" on an additional reservoir/trough planter that can be used as a "overflow tank", eliminating the use of such a "finite" amount of nutrient and, therefore, reducing "maintenance". It will be connected to the drain/feed pipe via a homemade one way valve ..... hopefully .... I think .... maybe .... perhaps. That's why I use junk. You gotta ponder hard and you get to test for free.... as long as you only destroy junk parts that is. Hence the procrastination, I , uhhhh, mean .... pondering.

robbtoberfest says: Jan 16, 2009. 8:03 AM

I'm really liking these heat shrink method I've learned on two instructables now. This is nice!!!

wiley coyote (author) in reply to robbtoberfestJan 16, 2009. 8:21 AM

Making this thing is how I stumbled on a useful application and it worked soooooooo well, that I saw other applications while dealing with the scrap. Re-use the re-used. If I had a sheet big enough, I'd make a drum with different tensions on it like a steel drum and see what I got. Other than too much time on my hands, that is.