Step 8: Painting

Once the tiles have dried and been matched together, it's time to paint.  Put the joined tiles onto a drop cloth or put newspaper under the outside edges (you may want to put newspaper under the joins as well).  Use masking tape along the exposed knobs.

Remove the protective film from the tops.  Start spraying some patches of grey with the auto primer(rock).  Then fill in the rest with the tan(sand).  I used the auto primer since it would leave a slightly rough matt finish, rather than the shiny plastic or auto paint.  I think that the primer will give a better surface if you want to paint the board with modelling (acrylic) paint, though I haven't tried this.

Just add some landscape such as hills, rocks, and trees and you're ready for a game.  I found a plastic carry bag that was just the right size at a disposals store.  It's zippered at the top and has carry handles.  It can store the board, parts and scenery and carry them around.

As you can see there are only 4 tiles, I haven't had the time to finish the last 2.  There is no limit to the size of your board.  If you are going to play on a table you must have a big enough table for your board as the tiles need support to stay together.

The photos of the finished product have been taken about 4 months after I finished the board.  Since then the tiles have bent upwards and the gaps seem to be bigger.  I'm not sure what has caused this.  Glue shrinkage or auto paint affecting the styrene?  It might also be that it's due to storing the tiles vertically instead of horizontally, but the unglued tops and tiles haven't bent.  Again, suggestions are welcome.

Something to try - The store bought boards have details like broken ground with buried skulls showing.  You could cut out parts of the top/s and even cut away some of the foam tile and then stick a smaller piece of styrene under the hole (use plastic or super glue).  Once the top is glued to the tile you can glue plastic skulls and bones in the holes.

To make the holes you can use a drill or hole saw to make a large hole and then cut out jagged pieces by scoring (up to the hole) and flexing the plastic until it breaks along the score lines.
A really nice idea, well documented., thanks for posting it. Regarding the gaps, I don't think there's a LOT you can do, tolerances on these things are positively CAVERNOUS and they rely on the flexible nature of the foam to take up the slack. You could probably minimise the problem to a certain extent, by laying out the tiles and sheets first to match things up more precisely. It might also be worth trying a brick style lay out, so that the tiles are staggered or offset like bricks in a wall. This would give you three joints at any point rather than the four you have here, but it might mean having to cut one tile for every alternate row. However this type of foam is available in other forms, thicknesses and colours, which makes me wonder if the plastic sheets are entirely necessary and it suggests to me the possibility of gluing scenery DIRECTLY to the tile. Your project does look very nice though, I hope you enjoy using it.

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