Light your patio and keep the bugs away with these quick, easy, and attractive bottle lamps.


bottles (beer, wine, liquor, soda, whatever)

tiki torch wicks

2 - 1" wood screws

pipe mount hardware (I had to go to a construction supply store as opposed to the average hardware store for these, but the guy at the hardware store told me where to find them.)

2" threaded rod (that fits the pipe mount hardware) I bought a 12" rod and cut it into 6 pieces with a hacksaw.

large wood bead (This is optional but makes the hardware more attractive.)

tiki fuel

1/2" - 3/4" copper coupling

aluminum tape (maybe-depending on the size of your bottle)

plastic/rubber tubing

Step 1: Mounting Hardware

1. Mount the plate

2. Screw the bead onto the middle of the rod. Some of my beads gave me trouble wanting to go onto the rod. If you screw the rod into the plate and then put the bead on while it's mounted, it will go on easier. This bead is decorative, but it also acts as a nut to keep the rod and bracket from swiveling if it is put on tightly.

3. Screw the bracket onto the rod.

Looks great, simple, elegant, functional. One improvement you may wish to make is the addition of a rubber pad (bike tire tube, weather stripping tape, etc.) between the clamp and the bottle. Having experience with mounting glass to metal, the two do not typically expand/contract at the same rate with temperature which could cause the glass to fracture with temperature change. Adding the flexible pad in between will allow for this difference. If nothing else (risking sounding like a safety whiner) you might add a note about not over tightening the clamp and/or leaving it loose with the rim of the bottle supporting the weight.
<p>That's a really great recommendation. It would have to be pretty as well as functional. I'll look around at the hardware store and add that when I find something I like. Thanks!</p>
Really I think you could do it so that it wouldn't even be visible. If you just apply it to the jaws of the clamp you wouldst know it was there. Personally I think I would cut a nice strip of inner tube and wrap it neatly where the clamp is. The tube is black and I think it would accent the hardware if it is left a little exposed. when you go shopping, just remember, the main idea is to provide a little cushion and distribute the clamping pressure. Any time you have metal against glass it creates a point load that is bad. If your chosen material is squishy like a sponge you would need something thicker, if it is more like tire rubber you can get away with something thinner.
<p>I found some plastic tubing in my piles of random stuff from other projects that worked great! </p>
<p>Thank you for this excellent idea. To satisfy the paranoid few, you could always add a shield behind the wick. Plumbing clean-out covers are stainless discs that would not only shield the flame, but would act as a reflector as well.</p><p>Tom</p>
<p>I have bowed to the peer pressure and added some protection for the wood. See the new Step 3!</p>
<p>Yeah, thanks for that. The photo in the email was making me nervous. Even though it is impossible for a flame that size to ignite the post at that distance, weird stuff happens. </p>
<p>Due to various comments, I have edited step 2 to include a copper coupling to hold the wick. Safety first.</p>
<p>Just in case I can't remember this tiny factoid when I go to the store to get the parts to build one of these: the base that's screwed to the wood is called a rod hanger plate.</p>
<p>A substitute for the aluminum tape could be copper tape. The kind that is used to wrap around trees as a snail barrier. </p>
<p>Have you checked with your local fire chief regarding glass containers and flammable liquids? Los Angeles County has fire safety laws that prohibit the use of glass or other fragile material for use as a container for flammable liquids. </p><p>Just an FYI as your project is called &quot;Molotov Lantern&quot; :) </p>
<p>Makes sense. If the glass is hot and cold water splashes on it it could 'splode! Even just heating and cooling over time could cause it to break, releasing its flammable contents.</p>
<p>That is true, but the bottle doesn't get hot at all. The mouth might get about as hot as a mug with hot coffee in it. All the heat is on and rising above the wick. </p>
<p>That's probably due to your ingenious coupling dissipating a lot of heat. That might be a good caveat to note, &quot;This doohicky is important cuz blah blah&quot;</p><p>BTW, this is very nicely executed project. Has a clean intentional look to it which I don't always achieve in my projects. </p>
<p>Well, I don't know how the fire chief would feel, but a bit of quick research has informed me that the flash point of the liquor that was originally in that bottle is lower than that of the tiki fuel. So, it would be easier to ignight the liquor than the fuel. I learned something today! I also learned that alcohol would burn the wick and the tiki fuel burns above the wick without consuming it. Thanks for inciting that bit of research. </p>
The idea is great (upcycling, etc) and people should modify to their tastes (comfort levels). <br>The changes to the design, with the back plate is a nice touch but I still feel :-\ that you even had to do that to appease a few people on here. <br><br>Just keep being your creative self and we'll worry about what we do with the fires that we start. :)
<p>I have these on my porch as well, without the plate for protection and it's been fine. The problem I run into is the wine bottle is too long and you have to keep a certain amount of oil in there just to keep the wick wet. If you have a smaller bottle you can use less oil in the bottle and still keep the wick wet.</p>
<p>Nice Instructable could I suggest that instead if using just an inflamable liquid for the fuel that Citrinella oil would be great to provide the fuel for light and keep insects at bay ...</p>
<p>You certainly can! Thanks for the suggestion.</p>
<p>i'm glad you added the plate. the one on the instructible e-mail didnt have it and i was thinking &quot;how smart is it to have an open flame mounted on a wooden beam&quot;??</p>
<p>As Hawaiian69 has pointed out:</p><p>&quot;PS--you cannot start a structure fire by burning the side face of a 2x4, 4x4, etc. The flame is too small, BTU is way too low &amp; there is no meaningful &quot;ignitable&quot; material or wood fiber/strands available.&quot;</p><p>However, it doesn't hurt to be a bit paranoid sometimes. Thanks!</p>
<p>[In case of revolution detach lantern]</p>
<p>LOL. Perfect for those Preppers among us. </p>
<p>Pretty cool idea. However, I for one would NEVER leave an open flame unattended. Just a reminder. Placing these on a structure as opposed to the traditional tiki on a pole has my inner voice asking &quot;what could happen?.... Probably nothing. &quot;Probably&quot; is a big word....Just sayin'....</p>
<p>How do you adjust the length of the wick whether it's skinny or thick??</p><p>Answer: With the wick burning, use a needle nose plier, slide the wick up or down in very small increments &amp; watch the flame. Raise it to create black smoke (soot). When it starts to generate soot, lower it. You may have to twist the wick/bottle to compress the wick to make it easier to raise &amp; lower. PS--you cannot start a structure fire by burning the side face of a 2x4, 4x4, etc. The flame is too small, BTU is way too low &amp; there is no meaningful &quot;ignitable&quot; material or wood fiber/strands available. However, anything else in proximity that can be easily ignited, e.g., polyester, plastic, fabrics, drapes, cloth, artificial plants, etc., are excellent sources of ignition. Also, in my opinion, do NOT use wall mounted candles in an enclosed room, use only where no more than two walls are present. Also, the overhead ceiling should be more than 24&quot; away for an open-candle flame, MORE if a glass hurricane screen is used. The screen allows a larger flame which means more heat and that heat is concentrated into a very small exit hole which concentrates the upward heat plume. I really like the idea of these candles &amp; have collected over 100 various wine bottles to make my similar version of candle holder. The shield is an excellent idea because it can be used to generate more reflective light. I recommend using small rectangular mirrors sized &amp; two-sided taped to fit the mounting post. Will post my project after I finish my other projects...</p>
<p>Thank you for your helpful and supportive comment!</p>
<p>Great idea and very good Instructable. I am going to steal it, but I will definitely add metal heat shields cum light reflectors to the area behind the mount. I've been down that road and had a small fire from a very similar arrangement.</p><p>I think I'll put citronella oil in one or two to discourage the skeeters, too.</p>
<p>I make these sorts of lamps - but I use very low, wide jars - that do not tip over and I am ultra not frightened of fires.... </p><p>But I once when I was about 16 or 17 - I had left a candle on a set of drawers, - you know melt a pool of wax and stand the lit candle up in it....</p><p>Only after a few cones and dropping off to sleep, I awoke to see a totally black ceiling about 3 feet lower than it ought to be - and I sat up and saw the drawers slowly starting to blaze away - and the black smoke was the speaker of my stereo - in the top of the draws, busily combusticating.</p><p>Since then I have has assorted &quot;fun times&quot; with things catching fire and being seconds away from bursting into fire balls etc....</p><p>I see TWO significant problems with this device.</p><p>1. I would put about 20 cm between it and anything else combustible - horizontally. I would also have a MINIMUM clearance above it of about 100cm - to anything combustable.</p><p>A flame in stationary air, has the ability to create a super heated column of vertical gas - that can melt things like plastic roofing etc... You MUST have room for the column to dilute and spread.</p><p>You get this effect with candles. You can feel the hot core of gas in a vertical column, in stationary air.</p><p>2. I'd be putting some kind of protective hoop/s around them, to stop people bumping into them, or grabbing hold of them, or trying to grab them as they fall over.</p><p>While kerosene is relatively easy to extinguish when these bottle type things smash - IF you can douse it relatively quickly with water - or if the lit fuel takes hold and you have a fuel type fire extinguisher available - and you can reach into where the fire has gone.... </p><p>a) It is a liquid fuel file, and liquid fuel can spread a long way, including setting fire to things like dry leaves etc., under the patio boards / decking.</p><p>b) And fires can take hold relatively quickly - from a small fire the size of a dinner plate - to being so big and so hot and unable to be extinguished with a garden hose etc., within minutes.</p><p>So many houses go up in flames in minutes.. someone lights a candle near an open window - they they are out the front talking with a neighbour - then a small breeze comes along and the curtains blow across the candle and within minutes the is blazing away and then within 10 minutes - the whole house is gone.</p>
<p>Have a Youtube cruise with this search term:</p><h4><strong>&quot;house fire&quot; candle</strong></h4><p>Treat all flames like a smoker, and your house like an oil refinery.</p><p>You MUST build in layers of protection.</p><p>&quot;Locate your lamps where they cannot set fire to anything else.&quot;</p><p>&quot;Protect them from being run into or broken off&quot;</p><p>&quot;Have three types of fire extinguishing mediums available - on hand at all times. A bucket or two of water, a quality garden hose - that DOES NOT KINK - plugged in, turned on full and ready to go and a proper fuel type fire extinguisher - like CO2 etc.&quot;</p><p>&quot;And get a bunch of smoke alarms - and locate them in every room - where they will be covered in smoke immediately - and not in some sheltered corner etc.&quot;</p><p>When your extinguishing fires, seconds count. </p>
<p>Another thing - I think it's a good and necessary idea to dump heat from the wick holder, to lower the transfer rate into the top of the glass bottle.</p><p>And there is a need to make a wick holder, that is a loose fit in the glass.</p><p>Not sure of the coefficients of expansion of different metals and glasses - but I have broken glass by inserting relatively tight fitting metal parts into them, and having the two parts rise and fall together through a large temperature range - the contraction and expansion rates are different - and the glass can and does crack, if the joint is not a little bit loose.</p>
<p>Without the copper tube for the wick fit tightly into the neck of the bottle, this thing is literally a bomb. Looking at your patio photo I also suggest you put a metal plate behind and over those flames. You are going to burn down your house.</p>
<p>The aluminum tape makes the tube fit tightly. </p>
<p>double plus good.....</p>
I've seen this with copper hardware too. They might have made a wick holder from copper as well.<br>You could always rip off some $ store tikis for them. another idea would be the screw cap from the bottle. Punch a big hole in it, then pull the wick through.
I don't think there's too much of a problem between the flame and the structure, adding an inch or two won't hurt. But the serious issue is the amount of air space between the wick and the mouth of the bottle. You need a flame arrester of some sort, as mentioned a metal plate or ceramic disk would be good enough, plus it would support the wick at the same time. As is it's a problem waiting to happen
Definitely would use a fire resistant plate behind the flame but this is a great idea!
My thoughts exactly!
i think that too!
What's with everyone and fire!?
<p>that looks amazing!!! will have to try this at some point!!</p>
<p>this is great - I really like the mounting hardware. Yes the bead takes it up a notch.</p>
<p>Fun idea!</p>
Smaller wick might be safer<br>Or mount a metal or ceramic plate behind the wick
<p>So sorry to have forgotten the liquid. It's a citronella tiki fuel. Obviously, you shouldn't burn these unsupervised. We burned them for a few hours and there was just a bit of soot on the wood. If you're worried about your structure, make the rod longer than 2 inches. I didn't want them to stick out too far and have someone run into it.</p>
<p>If you keep using these like this the structure they are mounted on WILL CATCH FIRE. Even worse, anyone building these based on your instructions will have their structures catch fire too. Your mount is dangerously close and your wick is too long. Please be sure your designs will not be directly responsible for burning someone's house down before posting them.</p>
<p>My instructions are to keep the wick around a half inch, don't leave them unattended, and do what makes you comfortable. My structure is not the slightest bit scorched after hours of use and there is nothing directly above the flame to catch fire. If you are not comfortable with this project, please don't build it.Comments suggesting making the rod longer or installing a plate behind the flame are good suggestions as well.</p>
<p>People look at pictures without reading all the details. You have pictures with more than an inch exposed wick. You have other pictures with the flame blowing sideways farther than the distance from the wick to the post. What do you think will happen when the wind blows towards the post? I'm not trying to be mean or win an argument. I truly feel this is a dangerous post and should be changed or removed. Why not fix it so this is more safe?</p>

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