The idea for this project was born from trying to get our campfires started with kindling and wood so wet we couldn't get them to burn with dry paper. Sure charcoal lighter would work but where's the fun in that?
Please don't be misled by the term Moose/Bear Repellent, I only used it to create more interest. It probably wouldn't deter a bear that was intent on inflicting harm. If anyone wishes to visit Alaska to enjoy the great outdoors, I would recommend some sort of bear deterrent. Be advised a big ol' can of pepper spray isn't always effective, they have even been seen licking it from the ground. Making plenty of noise or an occasional blast on a portable air horn while you're hiking will keep surprise encounters to a minimum. As for the moose, beware, they usually aren't afraid of anything and would love a chance to bully you for your snacks, or for no reason at all.
Some words of caution: Be safe, have a fire extinguisher or bucket of water nearby and someone else there in case whats burning is you. Never operate indoors. You wouldn't pee up a rope or spit into the wind, it'll get ya if you do, so don't use it when the wind is blowing.
Materials: All materials are available at Lowes or Home Depot except the butane refills and birch plywood, which can be found at tobacco shops and craft stores respectively. Total estimated cost $50-$60 US.
8 in. of 1-1/2 in. type "L" copper tubing
1-1/2 in. copper end cap
1-1/4 in. copper end cap
1 in. length of 3/4 in. soft copper tubing
1/4 in. x 1-3/4 in. hitch pin
4 in. x 4 in. x 5MM extruded acrylic
24 in. x 12 in. x 1/8 in. birch plywood
1-1/4 in. length of 1/4 in. oak dowel
1-1/2 in. x 1-1/8 in. x 1/2 in. long aluminum angle
4 pcs. 1/8 in. tension pins 5/8 in. long
12 pcs. #8 x 3/4 flat head wood screws
3 pcs. #6-32 x 1/4 in. flat head machine screws
1 pc. #8-32 x 1 in. flat head machine screw
2 pcs. #6 x 1/2 in. flat head wood screws
1 pc. #8-32 x 1/4 in. flat head machine screw and lock nut
1 pc. #10-24 x 3/8 in. pan head machine screw, flat washer, lock washer and nut
pulse ignition for gas grill with wiring harness ( Lowes or Home Depot )
1 pc. AA battery
2.1 oz. can butane
1 paper clip
1 pc. 3/4 in nylon pipe cap
Titebond wood glue
super glue
a bit of solder
Tools used:
Laser cutter
Pipe cutter
Hand drill and assorted bits
Dremel with cut-off wheel and drum sander
Wire crimper
Sand paper
Scotchbrite
Propane torch
Router table
Phillips screwdriver
Below are the drawing files for the grip frame.
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Signing UpStep 1: Choose the fuel supply and material for the fuel chamber
PIC#1 I chose to use a 2.1 oz. can of Bernzomatic butane because I already had it on hand.
PIC#2 I checked a copper tubing handbook and found the size of copper tube that's inside diameter most closely matched the outside diameter of the butane supply I was using, which happens to be 1-1/2 inch type "L" tubing. I cut an eight inch length of the 1-1/2" type "L" copper tubing. I Purchased a 1-1/2 inch end cap to fit over one end of the tube and another 1-1/4 inch cap to fit inside the tube.
PIC#3 The end of the nozzle on the butane supply is stepped.
PIC#4 A hole for the butane nozzle must be placed in exact center of the 1-1/4 inch end cap. To find center I painted the inside of the cap with a black marker and allowed the ink to dry.
PIC#5 Coiled up scotchbrite pad rotated gently inside the 1-1/4 inch cap to remove the ink.
PIC#6 If done as described you should have a mark dead center. Drill that mark with a 1/16 inch bit followed by a bit just large enough for the butane nozzle to pass through until it contacts the first step on the butane nozzle.
PIC#2 I checked a copper tubing handbook and found the size of copper tube that's inside diameter most closely matched the outside diameter of the butane supply I was using, which happens to be 1-1/2 inch type "L" tubing. I cut an eight inch length of the 1-1/2" type "L" copper tubing. I Purchased a 1-1/2 inch end cap to fit over one end of the tube and another 1-1/4 inch cap to fit inside the tube.
PIC#3 The end of the nozzle on the butane supply is stepped.
PIC#4 A hole for the butane nozzle must be placed in exact center of the 1-1/4 inch end cap. To find center I painted the inside of the cap with a black marker and allowed the ink to dry.
PIC#5 Coiled up scotchbrite pad rotated gently inside the 1-1/4 inch cap to remove the ink.
PIC#6 If done as described you should have a mark dead center. Drill that mark with a 1/16 inch bit followed by a bit just large enough for the butane nozzle to pass through until it contacts the first step on the butane nozzle.
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Went to my Blog:
http://faz-voce-mesmo.blogspot.pt/2013/03/acendedor-de-churrascada-electricidade.html
creddits to the maker
You have created a thing of beauty.
Thats awsome
I have some similar plans that i baught at an online book shop that use to be in australia about 15 years ago
Turns out these plans are from the information unlimited people and this book shop was selling a cd's worth full of things like this
That looks great can't wait to look more closely at it
Serg
Can you supply the website? I'd like to check it out.
The place i got the cd from has closed down but i can give you the site that origonaly had the plans for sale but they sell them at different prices and it's full of things like kits for things not just the plans/schematics
http://www.amazing1.com
They have all sorts of cool stuff there
Serg
Thanks for the info, it's a cool site. Going to spend more time checking out their stuff later.
If you put this in your pocket, it might be considered a concealed weapon, as this is probably extremely illegal.
Does this have a safety?
As for legality, it's legal where I live but there may be locations it may not be.
No there is no mechanical interlock, I wouldn't transport this, or my camp stove for that matter, with a butane cylinder installed.
Awesome......
:)