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Step 2Fabricating the fuel chamber parts
PIC#1 The plans I drew up required an opening cut in the fuel chamber to allow for the parts and linkage that force the butane cylinder forward to discharge it's contents. I wanted to keep the tolerance tight so I cut the opening .96in wide x 1.3in long, .25in from the tube end. I cut the 1-1/2" end cap to match.
PIC#2 Scribed a line from the center of the cutout to the opposite end of the tube and marked a center location 1-1/4 inch from the tube end. Transferred the center mark 120 degrees in both directions and drilled all three locations with a 1/16 inch bit, followed by a 1/8 inch bit and finally a counter sink.
PIC#3 The 1-1/4 inch end cap was too long to fit the butane cylinder correctly so I shortened it to 3/4 inch long. I inserted it open end first into the end of the tube with the three holes until it was 5/8 inch inch from the end. Then marked the location of the three holes in the tube onto the 1-1/4 inch end cap. Drilled those three locations with a 3/32 inch drill and followed with a #6-32 tap.
PIC#4 Drilled two 1/16 inch holes 180 degrees apart, 90 degrees from the center of the slot and 3/4 inch from the closed end of the 1-1/2 inch end cap.
PIC#5 Drilled a hole in the end of the cap with a #29 drill bit and chased it with a #8-32 tap. the location isn't critical just needs to be centered in the slot.
PIC#6 Ran a #8-32 x 1 inch screw into the hole previously threaded and marked all the threads protruding with black paint.
PIC#7 Removed the screw and chucked it in a drill motor, ran the drill full speed while holding a small file against the threads I marked with black paint until they were removed.
PIC#8 Taped the 1-1/2 inch end cap to the fuel chamber tube to transfer the two holes in the end cap to the tube. Then ran through with a 1/16" drill followed by a 1/4" drill.
PIC#9 I cut a piece of 3/4 inch copper tube 5/8 inch long and fish mouthed one end with a drum sander to fit the contour of the fuel chamber tube. This will be the fuel chamber mounting boss.
PIC#10 The four main parts of the fuel chamber.
PIC#11 Soldered the mounting boss to the fuel chamber, assembled the fuel chamber and end cap with a 1/4 inch x 1-3/4 inch hitch pin.
PIC#12 Time to slide the 1-1/4 inch end cap in place and secure with three #6-32 x 1/4 inch screws.
PIC#13 I drilled a 7/32 inch hole 1/4 inch from the end of the tube and attached the ceramic insulated ignitor electrode with a #10-24 x 3/8 inch machine screw, flat washer lock washer and nut. I then drilled a 3/16 inch hole 180 degrees from the first hole 1/4 inch from the end of the tube and fastened a ground electrode fashioned from a paper clip with a #8-32 x 1/4 inch long machine screw and lock nut through this hole.
PIC#14 For asthetic purposes I capped the end of the fuel chamber mounting boss with a nylon cap.
PIC#2 Scribed a line from the center of the cutout to the opposite end of the tube and marked a center location 1-1/4 inch from the tube end. Transferred the center mark 120 degrees in both directions and drilled all three locations with a 1/16 inch bit, followed by a 1/8 inch bit and finally a counter sink.
PIC#3 The 1-1/4 inch end cap was too long to fit the butane cylinder correctly so I shortened it to 3/4 inch long. I inserted it open end first into the end of the tube with the three holes until it was 5/8 inch inch from the end. Then marked the location of the three holes in the tube onto the 1-1/4 inch end cap. Drilled those three locations with a 3/32 inch drill and followed with a #6-32 tap.
PIC#4 Drilled two 1/16 inch holes 180 degrees apart, 90 degrees from the center of the slot and 3/4 inch from the closed end of the 1-1/2 inch end cap.
PIC#5 Drilled a hole in the end of the cap with a #29 drill bit and chased it with a #8-32 tap. the location isn't critical just needs to be centered in the slot.
PIC#6 Ran a #8-32 x 1 inch screw into the hole previously threaded and marked all the threads protruding with black paint.
PIC#7 Removed the screw and chucked it in a drill motor, ran the drill full speed while holding a small file against the threads I marked with black paint until they were removed.
PIC#8 Taped the 1-1/2 inch end cap to the fuel chamber tube to transfer the two holes in the end cap to the tube. Then ran through with a 1/16" drill followed by a 1/4" drill.
PIC#9 I cut a piece of 3/4 inch copper tube 5/8 inch long and fish mouthed one end with a drum sander to fit the contour of the fuel chamber tube. This will be the fuel chamber mounting boss.
PIC#10 The four main parts of the fuel chamber.
PIC#11 Soldered the mounting boss to the fuel chamber, assembled the fuel chamber and end cap with a 1/4 inch x 1-3/4 inch hitch pin.
PIC#12 Time to slide the 1-1/4 inch end cap in place and secure with three #6-32 x 1/4 inch screws.
PIC#13 I drilled a 7/32 inch hole 1/4 inch from the end of the tube and attached the ceramic insulated ignitor electrode with a #10-24 x 3/8 inch machine screw, flat washer lock washer and nut. I then drilled a 3/16 inch hole 180 degrees from the first hole 1/4 inch from the end of the tube and fastened a ground electrode fashioned from a paper clip with a #8-32 x 1/4 inch long machine screw and lock nut through this hole.
PIC#14 For asthetic purposes I capped the end of the fuel chamber mounting boss with a nylon cap.
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