Modify a bug zapper to enable it to attract and kill mosquitos in huge numbers. Photo shows catch from one evening! Zappers usually are not effective against mosquitos, even when chemical lures are used along with them. The effective mosquito killers use propane and are large and expensive. CAUTIONS: This project requires disassembly and reassembly of an electronic device, and that should only be done by someone experienced in electrical matters and done with extreme caution. The finished project will also need to be used with extreme caution in order to safeguard people, pets and wildlife. ADDED CAUTION: Some modern zappers store the zap voltage on a capacitor that is wired directly across the two zap screens. You can get a jolt from touching the screens even after the unit is unplugged. You can bleed off the capacitor charge after unplugging the unit by connecting the two grids together using a width of wet paper towel wrapped around a plastic rod, such as can be cut from a cheap plastic coat hanger.
To see my related Instructables, including "Deer Fly Traps," click on "unclesam" just below the title above or in the INFO box to the right. On the new page that appears, repeatedly click "NEXT" to see all of them.
Unclesam
To see my related Instructables, including "Deer Fly Traps," click on "unclesam" just below the title above or in the INFO box to the right. On the new page that appears, repeatedly click "NEXT" to see all of them.
Unclesam
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Signing UpStep 1: Disassemble zapper
Any electronic bug zapper of any size will do. Zapper consists of two concentric cylinders made of coarse metal screen and fluroescent bulbs that attract some kinds of bugs. Mosquitos are attracted to warm-blooded mammals, however, and this project adds a sleeve of heavy black plastic to the outside of the inner zap screen. The bulbs heat the plastic sleeve, which attracts the mosquitos. Plastic sheet is an electrical insulator, but the machine will still zap with it in place.
Remove The protective plastic cage and remove the light bulbs. If these steps do not also remove the top electronic cover, leave it in place, no modifications to the electronics are necessary. Unsolder the wire that comes from out of the top of the unit and attaches to the top of the outer wire zap screen. Carefully remove the outer zap screen and any ceramic spacers. Cut heavy black plastic, such as 6 mil landscaping plastic, to a size and shape that will go around the inner zap screen once with a some overlap. Secure the plastic to the inner zap screen using an ordinary office stapler as far up as you can reach with it. If the top of the plastic needs securing, make a complete wrap of electrical tape around it, plus some overlap.
Remove The protective plastic cage and remove the light bulbs. If these steps do not also remove the top electronic cover, leave it in place, no modifications to the electronics are necessary. Unsolder the wire that comes from out of the top of the unit and attaches to the top of the outer wire zap screen. Carefully remove the outer zap screen and any ceramic spacers. Cut heavy black plastic, such as 6 mil landscaping plastic, to a size and shape that will go around the inner zap screen once with a some overlap. Secure the plastic to the inner zap screen using an ordinary office stapler as far up as you can reach with it. If the top of the plastic needs securing, make a complete wrap of electrical tape around it, plus some overlap.
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Unclesam
also, i still managed to get a shock from screens after i had unplugged and removed bulb! also, are you sure there no fire hazard with plastic heating up?
thanks
Thanks for your input, Unclesam.
There could be a fire hazard with the plastic heating up, that is why I went to all that trouble to place it away from the bulb and outside the inner wire grid. It also depends on what kind of plastic you use and how stiff it is. The bulb heat, or wind, etc, could cause your plastic to crinkle or shrink and touch the bulb, which would increase the fire hazard.
For the sake of your peace of mind, you might want to try an alternative to the black plastic sheet, suggested by others' comments, which I have never tried, and paint the bulb black. I would use a spray paint sold for painting wood stoves, which should withstand the heat produced by the bulb and certainly should not catch fire from the heat of the bulb. I have no idea what effect the paint would have on the life of the bulb. I would clean the glass with alcohol before painting, and I would not try to paint the bulb all the way to either of its ends. A more available paint that withstands high temps, though not as high as stove paint, is paint sold at auto parts stores especially for painting auto engine parts. The engine compartment of a car certainly gets hotter than the zapper bulb.
You say you received a shock from the screens after you unplugged and removed the bulb. Do you mean that you unplugged the entire unit or that you unplugged the bulb from its socket? The zapper portion of the unit contines to work even if the bulb has been reomved. I cannot imagine how you received a shock from the screens if you unplugged the entire unit and removed the bulb. I have never seen a unit that contained a capacitor or any other energy storage device. Your unit may have an electronic design that I have not seen before. Judging from your experience, I would caution that you use a dry wooden stick with piece of wet paper towel rubber-banded to its end to test for zaps and connect the two grids together, to drain off any charge, after you unplug the unit, if you expect to come in contact with the grids.
Also note my general safety warning that someone who is not accustomed to working with electrical equipment may not want to work on or use this project without partnering with someone who is. There is a risk of injury, death and fire.
Do post a comment on your final result and how it works.
Unclesam
source: http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/life/zoology/insects-arachnids/mosquito.htm
High voltage is not fond of trying to get through an insulator.
Ditto for lying politicians and crooked lawyers... maybe if I put money inside the bait tray...
As it uses no poisons or zapping, your specimens should be virgo intacto with the exceptions of those that eat the others...
U.S.
I'm thinking high voltage DC power supply (~4kV), and perhaps 1-2mA with a ~10mm gap between screens. Yellow jacket lands, crawls across, and whap! Any suggestions on target voltage/amperage? Would you do this with a high voltage power supply, or with cap discharge? Check out the following mfg for the power supply. http://ultravolt.com. Looks reasonably cheap to me. I've heard from friends that the high voltage cap discharge "tennis rackets" don't have enough punch to kill a yellow jacket.
How about a trap that just stuns them and they fall into water? Bugs can't swim - water beetles and such excepted I guess.
I do know that I have to make special watering dishes for the honeybees or they fall into the dog bowls and drown just trying to get a sip.
I wanted to figure out a way to coax yellowjackets into a blender but that is still a work in progress... and best way to kill yellowjackets in house or attic is with steam cleaner. Wait until nightfall, they all return to nest - steam will cook them even in flight and kill all eggs.