My latest, new and improved motorcycle hand wind deflectors are based on the original mounting method of my previous ones, but use Lexan sheet for a less visually obtrusive design.
You will note that these are version 2.1.
The original (version 1) used a curved metal shield to block the wind. This wrapped around the front of each grip and brake/clutch lever. However, the metal was big and bulky looking. I also think the curved design did not divert the wind as well as a flatter shield.
The newer version 2.0 used a flat Lexan flat sheet, however, I was still getting some cold wind blowing on my fingertips when wrapped around the grips.
The newest version (2.1) uses a slightly larger sheet of Lexan and bends the bottom portion back for reduced size at the front face as well as to help protect the fingertips at the bottom.
Think of these as windshields for your hands.
These are mounted on my Yamaha Vstar 650, however, I suspect the mount can be modified to fit many makes of motorcycle.
If you line up all your materials and steps ahead of time, it should not take more than 1 hour.
Total cost should be about $15 or less
You will note that these are version 2.1.
The original (version 1) used a curved metal shield to block the wind. This wrapped around the front of each grip and brake/clutch lever. However, the metal was big and bulky looking. I also think the curved design did not divert the wind as well as a flatter shield.
The newer version 2.0 used a flat Lexan flat sheet, however, I was still getting some cold wind blowing on my fingertips when wrapped around the grips.
The newest version (2.1) uses a slightly larger sheet of Lexan and bends the bottom portion back for reduced size at the front face as well as to help protect the fingertips at the bottom.
Think of these as windshields for your hands.
These are mounted on my Yamaha Vstar 650, however, I suspect the mount can be modified to fit many makes of motorcycle.
If you line up all your materials and steps ahead of time, it should not take more than 1 hour.
Total cost should be about $15 or less
Step 1: Materials and tools
Materials:
(2) .093" x 8" x 10" Lexan sheets. I got mine at Home Depot. They are replacement panes for windows. They cost $3.75 each
(4) each stainless steel machine screws (10-32 x 1/2"), and lock nuts
(8) each stainless steel washers
(1) length of 1/8" x 1" aluminum bar (I had mine from a previous project, but you could really use whatever size works for you)
Tools:
Hacksaw to cut metal bar to length
Vise for bending metal bar to 90 degree angle
Drill (I needed 3/8" for my mirror mounts and 3/16" for #10 screws)
Files (flat for smoothing edges of metal bar and Lexan after cutting; also needed round file for tweaking hole for mirror mount)
Bandsaw (or jigsaw) for cutting Lexan)
Heat gun (or oven)
Wood blocks and clamps (for bending Lexan)
(2) .093" x 8" x 10" Lexan sheets. I got mine at Home Depot. They are replacement panes for windows. They cost $3.75 each
(4) each stainless steel machine screws (10-32 x 1/2"), and lock nuts
(8) each stainless steel washers
(1) length of 1/8" x 1" aluminum bar (I had mine from a previous project, but you could really use whatever size works for you)
Tools:
Hacksaw to cut metal bar to length
Vise for bending metal bar to 90 degree angle
Drill (I needed 3/8" for my mirror mounts and 3/16" for #10 screws)
Files (flat for smoothing edges of metal bar and Lexan after cutting; also needed round file for tweaking hole for mirror mount)
Bandsaw (or jigsaw) for cutting Lexan)
Heat gun (or oven)
Wood blocks and clamps (for bending Lexan)
Step 2: Mounting bracket
To make the mounting bracket, cut the 1/8" x 1" aluminum bar to length.
You will need to mock up the basic length with a piece of stiff paper or cardboard to figure out how the mount will fit around the brake and clutch levers and also wrap around the back of the mirror mount.
See photos below for the 2 simple bends and 3 holes required in each bracket.
As you can see, I tweaked the angle of the front piece of the bracket to suit my needs, on this side of the bike only.
The clutch side has different requirements since the mirror mounts are slightly different, so make sure you do each one separately or at least check to see if they are the same.
You will need to mock up the basic length with a piece of stiff paper or cardboard to figure out how the mount will fit around the brake and clutch levers and also wrap around the back of the mirror mount.
See photos below for the 2 simple bends and 3 holes required in each bracket.
As you can see, I tweaked the angle of the front piece of the bracket to suit my needs, on this side of the bike only.
The clutch side has different requirements since the mirror mounts are slightly different, so make sure you do each one separately or at least check to see if they are the same.
Step 3: Shield mockup
I used a piece of cardboard to mock up the shield.
Use a piece of cardboard or stiff paper, that matches the size of the Lexan sheet.
Cut the edges and bend the mockup to get the exact size/shape you desire.
Use a piece of cardboard or stiff paper, that matches the size of the Lexan sheet.
Cut the edges and bend the mockup to get the exact size/shape you desire.
Step 4: Lexan shield
Transfer the outline of the mockup to the Lexan sheet with a Sharpie.
Tape the (2) sheets of Lexan together so that they can be cut at the same time.
I used a bandsaw to cut out the sheets, however, I assume you could just as easily use a jigsaw with a very fine blade.
Use a file to smooth the cut edges of the Lexan
Tape the (2) sheets of Lexan together so that they can be cut at the same time.
I used a bandsaw to cut out the sheets, however, I assume you could just as easily use a jigsaw with a very fine blade.
Use a file to smooth the cut edges of the Lexan
Step 5: Bending Lexan shield
Clamp the Lexan between two piece of wood with clean straight edges.
Use the two Sharpie marks to align the bend line in the wood vice.
Using the heat gun, heat up the edge of Lexan along the clamped wood edge.
You will need to run the heat gun back and forth to avoid overheating the Lexan in any single spot. If you do, it will deform and possible get small bubbles in it.
Hold and bend down on the Lexan as you heat it up and eventually you will start to feel it give as it softens. I found it beneficial to pull down as I bent down in order to give the bent edge a tighter radius.
Don't worry if you don't get the exact bend you want the first time, since you can simply reclamp, reheat and rebend.
If you don't have a heat gun, you can place the Lexan in an oven for about 5 minutes on 350 degrees.
You have to use gloves to protect your hands from the hot plastic when you bend it over a straight edge.
Use the two Sharpie marks to align the bend line in the wood vice.
Using the heat gun, heat up the edge of Lexan along the clamped wood edge.
You will need to run the heat gun back and forth to avoid overheating the Lexan in any single spot. If you do, it will deform and possible get small bubbles in it.
Hold and bend down on the Lexan as you heat it up and eventually you will start to feel it give as it softens. I found it beneficial to pull down as I bent down in order to give the bent edge a tighter radius.
Don't worry if you don't get the exact bend you want the first time, since you can simply reclamp, reheat and rebend.
If you don't have a heat gun, you can place the Lexan in an oven for about 5 minutes on 350 degrees.
You have to use gloves to protect your hands from the hot plastic when you bend it over a straight edge.
Step 6: Mount the shield
Install the brackets on the mirror mounts and hold up the shield to the position you prefer.
Mark the 2 bracket holes on the shield with a Sharpie, drill and mount.
I think they look pretty clean and professional.
Windshields for my hands...nice!
If you like, please give some stars
Mark the 2 bracket holes on the shield with a Sharpie, drill and mount.
I think they look pretty clean and professional.
Windshields for my hands...nice!
If you like, please give some stars
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Nice Job.
Thanks for sharing.
I love mine, but with this weather, I'm going to be taking them off for the season soon.
Thanks for the idea! We going to make these.
Just wanted to add that when smoothing the edges, probably after the pieces are bent, playing a flame on the edges will smooth them out even more.
I did this years ago on my 920 Yamaha, but had stumbled across these over sized plastic snow globes, about 7" in diameter. Used the clear top half, Notched them to fit around the the grip so your hand fit into the globe half easily with out cutting into your hand. worked fantastic. Even better in summer, its amazing how many beetles and bees they collected.
The key was/is to make a cardboard template for the plexi to refine the size for your particular bike and then you can also adjust the location of the bend.
Let me know if you come up with any improvements
I am making some home-made stabiliser's for my motorcycles and scooters because of Syringomyelia.
Your idea has given me an idea of how to replace heavy suspension shocks which will be nearly invisible.
Excellent and has to be the best instructable I have seen. How did you get the angles to match? Did you use the first one as a template for the second?
Well Done again and Thank You Very Much.
Wished I had something like this...