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I recently had to load my motorcycle onto my trailer and take it to a friends house. I was really unhappy with how insecure the bike was on the short trip there. I started searching the internet for a wheel chock and I was shocked that the price for a decent quality chock was so high. I decided to remedy this, read on to make your own. Download the PDF files below for a measured drawing and a 3d PDF model (if you have a recent version of adobe's PDF plugin).

Tools and Materials:

Welder (MIG, TIG, Stick)
Angle Grinder with a standard grinding disk and several cut-off wheels
Oxy-Acetylene Torch (a plumbers propane torch is not going to get hot enough)
Tape Measure
Steel Rule
Pencil, Scratch-Awl, or soapstone

8' - 2" x 2" x 3/16" Steel angle (1/8" should be fine but I could get 3/16 local for a decent price)

DISCLAIMER:
Welders, grinders and torches are dangerous tools. All could be fatal if used improperly. It is assumed that you know how to safely use these tools before starting this project. Wear all the appropriate safety gear so you can use this after you finish. I can not be responsible for misuse of tools or this wheel chock. This is not a substitute for properly securing your motorcycle. This wheel chock must be securely attached to your vehicle prior to use.

OK, enough of that. Lets get started.
 
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Step 1: Collect your material


I bought a 20' piece of 2" angle from a local fabrication shop for $35. I got 2 chocks from this piece with a little left over. Each chock will require just under 8' so it is OK to cut it down to get it home.

Step 2: Let the sparks fly!

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Now we can get to work. Since I had already cut the 20' length in half to get it home, I lined them up back to back and tacked them together. This method guarantees that you will get two exact mirror images.

Measure from the end and draw a line at 18", 24" and 30". At the 18" mark you will cut a notch at 22 ½° to either side. Detail A on the print shows that if you measure .828" (about 13/16") to either side of the 18" center mark and draw a line back to the bottom of the center mark you will have the correct 22 ½° angle.

At the 24" mark you will cut a notch at 11 ¼° to either side. Detail B shows that you can achieve this angle by measuring .398" (just over 3/8" is close enough) to either side of the center mark, just like above.

If you have a decent chop saw you can just miter these cuts all the way through. I prefer the notch and bend method, the parts stay in decent alignment this way. It is a bit more work though.

I cut the notch at the 18" mark too wide on mine so I had to fill it in with weld. You get the benefit of learning from my mistakes!

Step 3: Every project is better with fire.

Picture of Every project is better with fire.

Time to bend the steel to shape. Fire up the torch and start heating the steel. When it starts to glow orange you should be able to start bending.

I was using a steel barrel as a work surface so I welded the angle to it for stability.

Bend the first section (the 18" mark) to 45°, let it cool and give it a tack weld to keep it. Then, heat and bend the next section to 22 ½°. Allow this to cool and give it a tack as well.

If you look carefully, you can see how far off I was on the first notch, d'oh! I have gotten pretty good at filling holes with the MIG.

Pull out the cutting wheel again and cut off the rails at the 30" mark. Go ahead and chamfer the corners at either end. Sharp corners and bike tires don't mix.

Now you can split the 2 pieces apart and get ready to start welding.

Step 4: Fire up the welder

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Weld up the notches and clean them up with a grinder. The tires are going to rub here, smooth them out really well. This is not the place to show off your bead laying skills. You can see in the picture I knocked off the corners at the top while I was at it.

Step 5: Weld on the braces

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Take the 5" pieces and weld them in place. You'll want to tack the support into the bottom and make sure it's in the right place for your tire. There will be a little clearance on the back piece to either edge. If you weld the edges flush you will have crooked rails. Here is where you can show of your row of nickles welding skills.

Step 6: Weld on the long support

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Now for the last piece, the stabilizer. You'll use this one to bolt the chock down. I'll show the obligatory weld shot here :) Not bad for a desk jockey.

Step 7: Enjoy a job well done

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Sand and paint your finished work. Bolt it down to your truck or trailer and load your bike in. You will still need to strap your bike down but this will keep the front wheel from twisting and shifting. You can add D-Rings to the stabilizer bar if you don't have tie downs on your truck or trailer. I have 2 more motorcycle projects in the works so stay tuned.

Very nice job. I'll be building these for sure!

Thanks for the information.

7070x3 years ago
Halo!

was just wondering if the same way can be done for the rear-wheel like how them racers park their bikes properly?
em21701 (author)  7070x3 years ago
Usually racers use a rear stand that lifts the rear tire off the ground, but I don't see why you couldn't use this on the rear if you wanted.