Tools and Materials:
Welder (MIG, TIG, Stick)
Angle Grinder with a standard grinding disk and several cut-off wheels
Oxy-Acetylene Torch (a plumbers propane torch is not going to get hot enough)
Pencil, Scratch-Awl, or soapstone
8' - 2" x 2" x 3/16" Steel angle (1/8" should be fine but I could get 3/16 local for a decent price)
Welders, grinders and torches are dangerous tools. All could be fatal if used improperly. It is assumed that you know how to safely use these tools before starting this project. Wear all the appropriate safety gear so you can use this after you finish. I can not be responsible for misuse of tools or this wheel chock. This is not a substitute for properly securing your motorcycle. This wheel chock must be securely attached to your vehicle prior to use.
OK, enough of that. Lets get started.
Step 1: Collect your material
I bought a 20' piece of 2" angle from a local fabrication shop for $35. I got 2 chocks from this piece with a little left over. Each chock will require just under 8' so it is OK to cut it down to get it home.
Step 2: Let the sparks fly!
Measure from the end and draw a line at 18", 24" and 30". At the 18" mark you will cut a notch at 22 ½° to either side. Detail A on the print shows that if you measure .828" (about 13/16") to either side of the 18" center mark and draw a line back to the bottom of the center mark you will have the correct 22 ½° angle.
At the 24" mark you will cut a notch at 11 ¼° to either side. Detail B shows that you can achieve this angle by measuring .398" (just over 3/8" is close enough) to either side of the center mark, just like above.
If you have a decent chop saw you can just miter these cuts all the way through. I prefer the notch and bend method, the parts stay in decent alignment this way. It is a bit more work though.
I cut the notch at the 18" mark too wide on mine so I had to fill it in with weld. You get the benefit of learning from my mistakes!
Step 3: Every project is better with fire.
Time to bend the steel to shape. Fire up the torch and start heating the steel. When it starts to glow orange you should be able to start bending.
I was using a steel barrel as a work surface so I welded the angle to it for stability.
Bend the first section (the 18" mark) to 45°, let it cool and give it a tack weld to keep it. Then, heat and bend the next section to 22 ½°. Allow this to cool and give it a tack as well.
If you look carefully, you can see how far off I was on the first notch, d'oh! I have gotten pretty good at filling holes with the MIG.
Pull out the cutting wheel again and cut off the rails at the 30" mark. Go ahead and chamfer the corners at either end. Sharp corners and bike tires don't mix.
Now you can split the 2 pieces apart and get ready to start welding.
Step 4: Fire up the welder
Step 5: Weld on the braces
Take the 5" pieces and weld them in place. You'll want to tack the support into the bottom and make sure it's in the right place for your tire. There will be a little clearance on the back piece to either edge. If you weld the edges flush you will have crooked rails. Here is where you can show of your row of nickles welding skills.
Step 6: Weld on the long support
Now for the last piece, the stabilizer. You'll use this one to bolt the chock down. I'll show the obligatory weld shot here :) Not bad for a desk jockey.