My motorcycle windshield was broken right after I bought the bike (used).  I was initialy planning to replace the plastic and reuse the existing hardware, but I really did not like the large size of the old windshield, and the mounting was really ugly.  New motorcycle windshields are available in a variety of sizes and shapes, but they are expensive, and I just could not find exactly what I wanted. 

Molding acrylic plastic is not hard to do (I have made a couple of items this way before, but not a windshield), and the material is readily available, so I decided to try making one.  This one has a slight compound curve (bend in two diections) but most windshields are just a simple curve.

The bike in the picture is a 2001 Honda Magna 750, with my homemade windshield installed.  This type of windshield would probably work for most any bike.  It is fairly small, and I did not see any need for metal bracing on the windshield.  It is mounted with four struts of 1/4" all-thread, bolted through the plastic.  It has held steady at up to 75 MPH (legal, here in Texas), with no vibration or movement.  It has killed allot of bugs that would otherwise have been splatttered all over me!

Step 1: Materials & Tools

For the plastic part of the windshield I used clear acrylic, .22" thick.  A 18" x 24" piece was large enough and cost less than $20.  It is sold in home improvement stores for replacing glass in windows.

These are the materials that I used for the mounting hardware.  This will vary from bike to bike, depending on what is available to attach it to.  I attached to the forks only, but a taller windshield might be braced to the handlebars.

4 Electrical Conduit Clamps - plated (Select size to fit on the forks and/or handlebars)
2 feet  1/4"-20 All-thread Rod - plated  (struts)
4  1/4"-20 Acorn Nuts - stainless steel or chrome plated
8  1/4" washers - stainless steel
12  1/4"-20 Nuts - stainless steel
4  Rubber Grommets - 1/4" ID, for 1/4" thick material.
2 feet  3/8" dia. Black Shrink Tubing (to cover the all-thread rod)
1  Inner Tube (to cut into pads to isolate the clamps from your chrome)
1 yard  Felt Cloth - synthetic or wool

Consumables which you will need:

Sandpaper:  Various grits from 200 to 800 or 1000, depending on how shiny you want the edges.
Masking Tape
Cardboard.  The exact size and type will depend on the shape and size of your windshield.
Razor blades, Dremel cut-off disks, saw blades, etc.
Contact or rubber cement.  This is to glue the rubber to the clamps

Tools Required:

Full size baking oven.  I used the one in my kitchen.  We are only going to soften the plastic, and you should not be ble to even smell the plastic when it is heated.  Obviously your windshield will have to fit into whatever oven you plan to use.

Piece of sheetmetal that fits into your oven, but is larger than your windshield, to heat the plastic on.  This should be clean and smooth, no paint, preferably galvanized.

A sabre (reciprocating) saw, jig saw, or coping saw, to cut the plastic.  I used a cheap hand-held jig saw with a fresh metal-cutting blade and it worked well.

Drill; manual or electric.  A stepped drill is very good for drilling plastic.  If not available you will need at least a 1/8", a 1/4", a 3/8", a 1/2" and a 9/16".  See the section on drilling the holes in the windshield for details.

Hack saw.

Files, course and fine.

Wrenches to fit nuts.

Vice: for bending the struts.

<p>I know the article says &quot;acrylic&quot; but in fact I used polycarbonate, which I strongly recommend. The windshield is still on the bike, fittings still look good; no issues. I don't understand why josuchav is talking about galvanized metal here. I used aluminum cookie sheets in the oven, but even if you were to use galvanized sheet metal the temperatures involved will NOT cause zinc to vaporize and &quot;kill everyone in there&quot;. Pig iron is cast iron blocks (won't work) but carbon steel should be Ok, as long as it is polished shiny.</p>
<p>This is an awesome instructable. I would recommend a lexan or polycarbonate due to its impact resistance. Plexiglass or acrylic can crack or explode on impact. Take a spare piece of acrylic and hit with a hammer and see for your self.</p>
<p>@tawodi, Price can be a deal breaker with PC but more than that, there was a long time that acrylic shields were all there was on the road. It'd true you are about 10x more likely to encounter failure with acrylic, but if you use something like a 1/4&quot; or more you'll probably never experience anything serious. At that point the lack of yellowing is worth it to me. <br>If budget isn't an issue then glare-proof poly is a much better choice.... but at that point you're so close to a memphis shield that it's almost not worth it....</p><p> unless customization. </p>
This worked great !!! I just finished it tonight. Hardest part was the plastic melting back together behind the jigsaw blade as I cut, from the hot blade. Not sure how to avoid that. Did anyone else have that problem?
<p>I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and adjusted the speed to what I needed. Worked great, no melting plastic at all.</p>
<p>Not hard - if you have a helper, they can squirt cold water (spray bottle) on the cut as you go, or if solo, rig up something that does the same.</p>
very good instruct able. I miss my motorcycle..
Cool! I didnt really ever think of using cardboard as a jig for plastic sheet material, and heat forming. <br /> <br />Awesome!
A good hair dryer set to high heat works well for the shrink tubing without the danger of scorching the tubing with a flame (or burning your fingers)
Great job and good detailed instructions - thanks!

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