Introduction: (Moveable) Home Bar Build!
I've been homebrewing for a little while now, and I've kinda gone crazy with it! It didn't take long for me to switch to kegging, and shortly realized that I NEEDED a bar! Since I move every couple of years, I wanted to make sure I could take it with me, and that it'd "fit" anywhere.
The entire bar top is secured by screw's underneath and the keezer slides out from the back!
Step 1: It Starts With a Plan?
Well, I had a drawing on paper at least! It was literally keeping me awake at night, so safe to say, much of the design was in my head.
I started with a sturdy base. A nice sheet of 3/4" plywood, framed underneath by 2x4"s, with two additional supports directly under where the majority of the load feet would rest. One downside. I didn't realize until too late that I made the base wider than an interior doorway. While it will still fit through a 36" door, I won't be able to get it through bedroom doors if I wanted it to be in a future man-cave.
For the rest of the support beams, I chose 2x3"s in an attempt to save a little mass / total weight. After building the collar for the keezer (to raise the lid height), I was then able to get a better feel for the total height, and how tall the "legs" needed to be.
Step 2: Framing
I wanted this to be strong, and maybe I went a little overboard. Being able to slide the keezer in and out from the back meant I knew I wouldn't be able to frame all the way around. I added the 45deg corner braces mostly for strength, and they also help to break up the vertical surfaces a bit.
I originally had two 2x3"S glued/screwed together for the back joiner, unitl I realized it meant I couldn't open the lid anymore! I removed it and went with a single piece along the back, making up for the strength elsewhere.
When the framing was said and done, I could sit, lean, push, whatever on it and it would hardly budge!
Step 3: Skinning
Using some 15/32" Sand-Ply (I think), I skinned the inside surfaces. Took a bit to get the sizes right, and I wished I had mated the edges better, but it worked out in the end.
Step 4: Expanding Out the Table Top Support
Now for the fun part... well, one of.
Again, strength right? Single piece 2x3" as the main "spar's" across the front, and I kind of had to "make it up" for the back. Hindsight, would have made it 1 piece again) The outer legs (left and right) were installed for the overhang support, as well as to allow for future mounting space for side shelves.
Glued and screwed everything! End result, nothing moves an inch!
Step 5: Table Top
I ordered a bar rail from http://www.hardwoodsincorporated.com. A bit pricy, but worth it (as you'll see shortly). As a result, the bar top had to be built in two 3/4" layers. I liked this anyway because, you guessed it, strength! More importantly, it allowed me to have a surface to screw into, without risking damaging the top, since all the screws were from underneath.
Anyway, in the first picture, you see the finished top. I used natural pine laminated boards and ran the 45's from the corners (of the future handrail) all the way to the center cut out. Since I need to be able to access the keezer (to change keg's, etc.), I made the entire center portion removable. This allows me to open the freezer from the front, without pulling the bar out from wherever it's sitting.
In the last picture you can see where I filled in a bit of wood filler. Since this was my first (ever) wood project, I was still pretty pleased with my cuts!
Step 6: Bar Rail
There it is, in all it's glory. I cut the pieces to size, and then set them aside for finishing. I knew I didn't want to install them until I had the surface stained.
Step 7: Taphouse
Now it's getting real!
If you've been following along, I've mentioned a few of my baseline requirements
2) Accessible from the front
and now 3) A taphouse that is attached to the table top and doesn't get in the way of the keezer lid.
Using the same 3/4" laminated boards, I constructed the following. The center box has a hinged access door from the back (allowing me access to the tap lines) which I insulated (not shown) using fiberglass held in by a layer of thermal bubble wrap.
The front face not only supports the 5 taps, but provides a bit of an overhang allowing me to install some hidden, recessed lights, as well as an electrical outlet.
Step 8: Epoxy Is Evil
Ok, you're probably looking at this an thinking "idiot"! Well, NOW I know. DO NOT tape your borders when using epoxy. Epoxy doesn't care! I wanted it to be all one level, smooth, perfect coat... NOPE!
Needless to say, a crowbar later, and I was able to remove the center section again. After attempting to pour a second coat on (the first pour of epoxy was a little wavy/bumpy, the second coat decided about half way through pouring that NOW was the time to start solidifying. Thankfully, that was after I had already poured the outer portion, and it only ruined the center section.
The second picture is the aftermath. 1 weekend lost removing epoxy with a three pronged attack of scraping, chemical, and a drill powered abrasive wheel. Anyway, I was able to strip it back down to bare wood, re-stain, re-urethane, and then epoxy coat it individually.
Biggest lesson learned. When they talk about "flood" coat with epoxy, they mean FLOOD! Make at least 50% more than you think you need, because you want it to spread mostly by itself. Sure, you can push it around a bit to fill in the edges, but make sure it drips over the sides such that you have so much, it's filled itself in everywhere.
Step 9: Ta-Da!
6 xenon lights working on one little touchpad switch tucked away next to the tap house. Brass fixtures. Brass handles to allow me to lift out the center portion. I love it!
Hope this inspires you. Let me know if you have any questions. It's my first big project, as well as my first instructable, so I'm sure it could be better. Maybe next time!
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