Introduction: Mr Freeze
This is a "How To" on how to make a Mr Freeze costume. If you like my designs and workcheck out Night Terrors of Gotham I will start by telling you that this build can be cheap or expensive depending on the features you add to it. I did have to buy an acrylic dome from http://www.edee.com/Acrylic%20Hemispheres.htm for the build, but I would not suggest buying it first. You need to figure out how big your base will be, so your dome can fit in snug.
Step 1: The Materials
I went to Harbor Freight and bought floor foam mats, heat gun, dremmel, straps, hoses, connectors for the straps, blue jump suit, electrical tape, and duct tape. From Lowes I got a 5 gallon water jug, dome trashcan, plastic bucket, clear tubing, Velcro strips, PLASTI DIP, and paint. From Wal-Mart I got some poster board, mini hot glue gun with Mini glue sticks, blue transparent folder, scissors, exacto knife, face paint, and a drain strainer. Online I purchased from Amazon.com included 2 LED small flat click flashlights, 1 large flat wall light, 4 cans of fog with trigger holder, Darth Vader gloves, EL Wire (Blue), Bald cap, spirit gum and remover, and goggles (use your own preference for these, some people like Mad scientist, others like steam punk). Laying around the house, I had an old Android phone that I used to make a wrist display ( Not needed, but adds a nice touch to it), rain boots, and small bolts.
Before any painting, add Plasti Dip spray paint first. It helps with bending and paint. Your paint will not crack and will last longer if you add the Plasti Dip
Please use with caution! Some of these MATS are real hardware, and can be dangerous. Do not leave your glue gun plugged in because they are constantly heating up, and the heat gun has metal at the tip, and blows hot air in all directions , this will burn you if used wrong. Make sure you unplug everything when done using them.
Step 2: The Chest Piece
This was the first look of my chest piece. Originally, I wanted to do a Green Lantern armor build, mister Freeze is better, so ignore the green color.
I took the Large Flashlight base apart and used the rim to help house the foam and small LED light inside. I cut a circle out of the blue folder and tucked it under the rim of the housing. (be sure to make the light removable so you can change the batteries and push the center to turn on. I use a piece of duct tape and attached from one side to the other and made a small handle to help pull it out each time. Probably better way to do that, but this works for what I need it for. To flair to the light, I glued a plastic clear plate with an interesting design to make it look more like a battery. create your chest design, add your bolts to the chest for the added metal look, and paint away.
I cut out a circle in the back of the chest piece to allow access to the light and housing.
Step 3: The Gun
This was a bit tricky because I want it to work. I the PVC and cut it down to the right size, trimmed a rectangle cut at the bottom, large enough for the trigger holder for the fog cans to fit snug, and then glued it together. I used a small part of my hose to guide the fog to the end of the gun from the trigger, and added a flashlight aiming down the PVC pipe to show the fog when I pull the trigger. I then built a design around the gun using the foam, and glued everything in place. I used duct tape to hold the hose still and added some folder in the open part in front of the trigger to add a glow to the gun when the light is on. once cased up, and sealed, I added a few foam additions to match the suit, and more bolts to it for the metal build, and a top part with another flashlight glow. Once completed make sure the fog works properly, and fits to the bottom of the gun. I used silver duct tape on the can because it was pink...
Step 4: The Backpack
I wish I had more pics of the inside for you, but I was too busy trying to get it done...
i used a 5 gallon water jug (yes, the one for the office). I cut out the middle back area so i could access the inside of it. I then made a foam casing using hot glue and bolts again. On the inside I put more blue folder in the center area and added a small LED flashlight in the back center. I used Velcro to attach it so i could remove it later for more batteries or to switch it out. the sides should be open to see the insides, so I added poster board strips to help hide this, and provide an access area to get the flashlight. BTW keep the nozzle on, you need it to help add an EL wire from your tank, to your gun. I also added a random hose to the top for a cooler effect ( sorry for the bad pun...)
the next part is hard... pushing an EL wire through a clear rubber tube took a while, but once it was done, I pushed it up through the inside of the Tank and out the top. Any excess EL wire, i rolled up using twisty ties, and put the remote on the inside of the tank next to the LED light. Velcro was also used to keep the wire attached to the gun. This is useful because when transporting, you can take it apart without hassle.
Ok, this is totally optional, but I think its awesome, and its the small awesome stuff that help make costumes awesome...er.
Now here you have to be a bit of a tech person, because I customized GO Launcher EX on Android non-root. and the added a few transparent widgets to the screen. I also turned off all radios (WiFi, Mobile data if you have it, and Bluetooth) Ask me in the comment area if you want to know the specs of this part...
I made a foam base and a foam housing for the phone. Use the heat gun to help make that rounded look for your arm (please don't put the hot foam on your arm). I placed the phone in the housing (make sure you leave room for connectors for charging or audio if you want it). Add a layer of poster board to the top of the housing but don't cut out the phone part just yet, because you need to paint first, and you don't want paint on your phone. once dry, add your straps, and buckles to the bottom and make sure you leave enough slack for jumpsuit and gloves. Once painted use the exacto knife to cut out the phones screen. Don't worry you will not cut gorilla glass, but I wouldn't press too hard either, just in case, lol.
Don't froget to add your bolts and keep the costume unison.
Step 6: The Helmet
Warning, very time consuming, but worth it.
I used the paint bucket, dome lid, and foam for the base.
I cut the bucket in a third, then cut out shoulder spots on each side. this will make then rigged, so I added foam padding to them for additional padding and support. I took the dome lid apart, making the hole where my neck would go. (the dome lid is upside down in case its hard to envision here) These pieces where glued together at an angle allowing for better sight. I took the lid of the dome and attached it to the back of the base to help hold the hole, and more weight and stability.
Next part is the dome...
You need to measure the diameter of the dome lid, because the Acrylic should fit nicely.
When you get the dome, and it will take 2 to 3 weeks to get in (Amazon and eBay could help this time if you find a different way to purchase), be aware that you don't have breathing room yet. you need to make a small hole in the front center of the base where your mouth will be. I added a portable fan in the back to help circulate the air around, and it also helped with the fogging up too.
Now, you add the EL Wire around the rim twice for a brighter effect. I added a drain strainer to the front for another touch of cool, and used the excess EL wire and rolled it up and tucked in the mouth piece for a circular glow effect in the mouth piece. I also added foam here too to help make it more solid.
Additionally I used a pool hose and some foam to make a "re-breather" piece for visual effect and to help connect the backpack to the helmet. You may need someone else here to help get the right size of the re-breather to the back piece correct.
I used the heat gun to help melt and cut a few parts here..
Step 7: Sizing the Suit
I used Velcro to attach the Hoses to the helmet and a warped Velcro around the bottom of the hoses to attach to the back piece as well.
Camera does not do the lights justice here, much better in person.
I used straps and buckles here to help attach the back and chest piece together. You need someone to help get these sizes right, otherwise it can look saggy.
Once you put it on, you can move the pieces around to help get them aligned just right.
Step 8: Almost Done
The bald cap test...
This is my first run using a bald cap, so bare with me. I studied YouTube for the best way possible.
You put you cap on snug, and make small cuts by the ears to help get your ear out, then make sure you wet you hair and get outt any bumps or air pockets. apply spirit gun just under the rim of the bald cap to help keep it attached, and then add your makeup.
These pics were part of my test run
Step 9: Dragon*Con!!!
The party was awesome!!! Already got my tiocket for next year!!! I hope anyone that uses this build to their costumes get as lucky as I did. Everything worked great!!! Can't wait till next year!!! BTW this is my first full build ever!!! Hoped you liked it!!!
Third Prize in the
Halloween Epic Costumes Contest
Natendo64 made it!
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