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Wouldn't it be nice if your walking stick served double duty as a chair?  This walking stick functions just as well as a stationary resting device as well as it does as a mobility enabler. 

Trying to find a place to rest on the trail can be a challenge; especially when the woods are wet.
Carrying a camp chair in your pack seems like an unnecessary luxury, however, if the hiking stick you were planning on carrying anyway could serve as a lounge chair, you just might want to indulge.

This Instructable describes the steps for making a convertible walking stick with an accessory seat.  At a height of 6 feet when fully assembled, the walking stick is really more of a Hiking Staff however, the 3 piece design makes it easy to transport and allows it to convert into a seat.

 But there's more...

This is the first in a series of Instructables demonstrating the versatility of this Hiking Staff.  Subscribe if you don't want to miss the next two sequel Instructables:

- Decorative and functional copper shod finial staff ends with storage

- Staff-top provision for an illuminating torch

Step 1: Staff Size

Walking Stick Material:
(3) 1” diameter hard wood dowels (each 2 feet in length).  I used oak for this project.

1: Cut  (3) three dowels 24 inches long.  These will be referred to as the Upper Section, Lower Section & Middle Section

Most of the new high tech walking sticks on the market today are the short (Trek) ski pole variety. Personally, I prefer a taller staff when hiking.  For me, the trail challenge is not so much the uphill incline, as it is the descent; especially while carrying a pack.

A grip near the top of a taller staff allows it to extend well downhill while the body remains upright during a descent.

The only negative I have found with a Hiking Staff is the inevitable accusation of sheep herding or the resemblance to Moses (which happens despite the lack of beard credentials) .
<p>In the UK here, and it's tricky to find the plumbing connections - at least for a reasonable price!</p><p>For extra strength (and because it's what I had) I've built mine with 30cm dowel instead of 1&quot;, and connected with a combination of &lt;a href='http://www.diy.com/departments/plumbsure-brass-tap...&gt;B&amp;Q 3/4&quot; compression fit tap extenders&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href='http://www.diy.com/departments/threaded-socket-dia...&gt;B&amp;Q central heating threaded sockets&lt;/a&gt;. I've found them cheaper on ebay too, but the ones I got don't fit together so well; the B&amp;Q ones thread really nicely.</p><p>I actually cut the hex section of the tap extender off, just with a hacksaw - it was a lot easier than I expected; in fact the most tedious part was sanding down the 30mm dowel to fit into the 19mm connectors. After that a couple of minutes with a drill sander took off the anodized surface and took down the twist grips on the connector to make it look less like a plumbing fixture. Hopefully it'll corrode nicely and lose some of the shine.</p><p>Admittedly I've made a bit of a mess with the epoxy; I went all-in with it, I'm pleased with the strength of the joints but I think it looks kind of rough. I'm open to suggestions regarding how to fix that.</p><p>And on the topic of suggestions, has anyone else had any success finding stub-outs in the UK for reasonable prices? The Elkhart one seems to be largely discontinued even in the US.</p>
<p>Since I'm guessing that sanding it down to the wood would leave a groove dipping under the metal, why not get some brass wire and make a decorative wrap to cover those areas up? </p>
<p>Very cool! I plan on making one for myself and scaled down ones for the 2 boys ( aged 9 and 10) that I spend time with hiking and camping.</p>
<p>I looked at using PVC, but there is quite a difference between the hole of the cooper and the outside of the PVC. So there has to be a lot of glue or, there has to be a lot of material taken from the PVC to fit. How did you handle that?</p>
<p>Would have been more functional it you included a spear head that could thread into the top connector, maybe even a three prong trident for fishing, or don't boy scouts do that kind of think anymore?</p>
<p>Elkhart #30500 1/2x6 COP Air Chamber</p><p>Amazon</p>
Very very cool! I have been looking at putting together a hiking staff. For me it has to have two main things it does well. It has to work well for walking and for self defense. I like the idea of a multi functional staff, but wasn't sure how to do that without compromising the defensive part of the staff. Your copper fitting idea might just do the trick. The staff should be sturdy enough to not break when you hit something. Also, the copper fittings on the end should increase it's effectiveness as a defensive tool. I am thinking of getting a 6 foot bo staff and using that.
<p>I'm looking at this as self-defence as well. I have a fishing hole that I share with a family of beavers and some geese. About twice a year I have a problem with the males getting overly dominant. Having 6-feet of stout oak between me and an angry goose has a certain appeal.</p>
<p>What does this staff (Oak, 6' high) weigh? Has anyone tried using bamboo? Bamboo's lightweight, surprisingly strong, and used in temporary scaffolding for building construction in Asia. You'd have to pick through a bunch to match fittings. thediameter with the copper</p>
<p>You may want too consider rattan if you wanted to stick to asian materials</p>
<p>Pretty sure bamboo is hollow, no? So I'd think it would be a major weak spot @ the point of attachment of the fittings. Also: The diameter isn't as consistent as milled dowling, thus you won't end up with as good of a fit and finish.</p>
Yes, bamboo is hollow over the longer sections of its length. There are nodes containing short, solid cross-bridges. I don't know how strong it is; probably weaker than solid oak, but is that enough? That's why I mentioned the scaffolding. As for the tips, you might have to glue the in place with epoxy. Best way to find out, of course, is to build one and test it.
<p>Hi. You might have answered this already: Is there an important reason for the connectors to be made of copper vs. some other material?</p>
<p>I like this. But on Step 4 you make no mention of how high up the poles the notches should be placed.</p>
<p>it said halfway up each dowel</p>
<p>what is the piece at the top of the staff? Is it just some personalization or something necessary? Sorry if I missed that in the instructable.</p>
<p>I <em>love</em> this instructable.</p><p>I've used this approach to make several staffs for myself (and a couple for my sons, who helped with theirs) that we can break down and store in our bags with the rest of our martial arts gear. This has given us highly-portable versions of a bo/jo for use in practice, and can also serve (in their &quot;broken down&quot; form) as backup weapons for stick fighting classes. (I'm generally reluctant to use them for &quot;contact&quot; fighting drills, given the brass fittings, but have done so on occasion.)</p>
Thanks for the great Instructable!!<br><br>I'm planning on making one of these over these next few weekends, with some modifications:<br> &middot; I hope to use paracord as the seat support; several lines around the outer triangle will serve as a framework for weaving a net. The net should provide extra support under the canvas (I'm a big boy). I still need to figure out how to protect the paracord lines at the corners from the cotter pins - maybe a plastic sheath at those points?<br> &middot; I'll also use paracord instead of the ring, either a simple wrap several times around with a clove hitch to secure, or a full-out tripod lashing.<br> &middot; I'm installing male connectors at top and bottom.<br> &middot; I found an iron cap in the plumbing section that fits the male connector - it looks sturdy. I'll install that on the bottom to take the repetitive impact when hiking.<br><br> I'll try to remember to take pics of the differences, and will update the post once completed to let everyone know how it works. If it works well, it will go with me to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area this spring, and to Devil's Den State Park in the summer. It will then be a regular part of my backpacking gear!<br><br>Peace and Long Life,<br>Twonster
<p>how did it turn out?</p>
Still working...finding free time difficult to come by, but I keep pushing. I've finished 2 of the 3 tripod supports, and am thinking through how I'd like to sheath the paracord net at the cotter pins to protect the net while sitting. I'm about 250 lb, and don't want this to break through on my first week of use. I have just under a month to finish so I can use it in BWCA.
<p>Hey this is so cool! Plus it has a steampunky look,yeaah</p>
<p>Made one of these today out of 1&quot; pvc electrical conduit. Had to do the notch thing differrent and I used a poly rope ring instead of steel but it came out great. I am a part sasquatch and weigh in at around 350 and the pvc and rope ring held up fine.</p>
Would using copper all the way through instead of the wood work? Would it weigh less or more? That way you could potentially use the inside of the tube for storage.
<p>Have you ever been at the top of a mountain when a squall suddenly comes up and the air is full of electricity? I have, it's SCARY, and the last thing I'd want in my hand is a metal rod!</p>
I imagine a copper tube would be harder on your hands; and less springy and 'forgiving' then a good choice of timber. <br> <br>And even more uncomfortable again during cold weather (needs insulating hand grip..).. <br> <br>And lightning storms...
Fun build, looking forward to using in Hawaii next week!
<p>Great instructable!!! I use a very small drill bit to put pilot holes where the jb weld can really get into the wood, and also I use melted wax on the threads and the threads only! to prevent the JB weld from getting into them. after 24 hours it melts off with very little heat and boom! I've made a few of these with and without the seat option, and all my friends that hike now sweat by them when I put the torch or storage that you've designed. Thanks for posting all of these!!!</p>
<p>swear by them... although I'm sure they've sweated with them too. </p>
<p>Great Instructable! I plan on making one using paracord or nylon rope as a handle that I can then unwrap and use to lash the legs instead of the ring (afraid I'll lose it). Question: do the threads snug down when assembling the staff? The pictures appear to show them not snugged down. </p><p>Thanks!</p>
<p>i nominated you for a 3 mo pro membership for this awesome walking stick series great work</p>
<p>Soooooo Cool might even do this in our scout troop!</p><p>A++ work man!</p>
This was Awesome. Thank you so much for this wonderful idea.
Excellent. Brilliant system
<p>i see a problem with the middle section, if you use the chair on anything other than soft dirt, you are going to mar the threads on the male fittings, and it wont go back together. perhaps a rubber foot or something could be placed on the end before use.</p>
<br> Hi !! <br> <br> I love it! It is more than good for a farmer and a sheppard(?) like me ! <br> I made a chair like this some years ago but it was only able to sit on it. That was it. <br> <br> This is REALLY good. Thank you. <br> <br>
<br>The correct spelling is &quot;shepherd&quot;, to answer your question mark on the first line, Devrimm... <br> <br>(THIS reply isn't rude ~ 'Devrim' did have a question mark in there; that everybody seems to have missed !).
needs to glow in the dark
Yes.
A spray can of luminescent paint will only cost a few $$$ ~ then you can spray a spiral pattern down along and around the length of the staff... <br> <br>AND a 1/4&quot; x 20 t.p.i. bolt screwed into the top of the staff and cut off gives you a &quot;monopod&quot; for cameras and binoculars.. <br> <br>I ALSO add a wrist strap/leash to all of the staffs/walking sticks I make.
That's pretty cool, and it beats sitting on the wet ground, too.
has any 1 thought of using a grade 12 washer by chance?
a fine looking staff Sir! I may have to adapt and copy your copper fitting joint and stub out tip to craft some support poles for my vintage camper's awning! will look so much better than an aluminum extendo pole
This is one of the most amazing sets of instructables I've seen in a long time. I love hiking and all of these hiking staff ideas are really wonderful. Have you ever thought of selling these?
Could pvc be used to make this? I don't know if it would be strong enough but it would be lighter.
So I am larger by far than most people (6'7&quot; 280#) and was thinking of a larger diameter dowel for the legs. I was wondering if anyone else would know if the 1 1/4 diameter legs would fit in the 2&quot; id ring, if not, would cutting the nitches deeper (1/4&quot; to 5/8&quot;) would allow the ring to work or if any one knows of a larger ring (HD didn't have anything larger). I also plan on making the whole thing closer to 30-34&quot; folded length giving me a taller staff and taller stool. <br> <br> I thought I would throw it out to the community at large <br> <br>Thanks <br>BenT
Same problem here, not as tall (6' even, 230lbs) but yes, I would use a larger dowel. I would say, having done some tweaking-ish things like this before, that our pest possible option is to scale it up precisely. If you use a 2&quot; dowel, use a 4&quot; ring, or whatever in between. I would probably use a 1 1/2&quot; dowel with a 3&quot; ring. As to finding the ring, Ebay is a wonderful place for random fiddly things like that. <br>Regards, the Ninja of Suburbia
Excellent
would you be able to sell one to me ?? locospud@hotmail.com ill pay ya for one
Many thanks for your post, albeit a couple years ago. This solved a problem I couldn't figure out. After making a Sassafras hiking staff, it was requested it be able to break down to fit into luggage. The hammer-in and screw-in threaded anchors with a threaded bolt weren't machined closely enough to prevent wobble. This should definitely do the trick. <br>&quot;ThisIsIt&quot; -- you are also correct. I too, noticed the gap, but it was before I even left the hardware store and the guy helping me explained the same thing you did. I, however, did not think about the coupler to cover the gap. Awesome idea! Thanks a ton! <br>
This is Brilliant! I was thinking of using spliced 7/64&quot; amsteel instead of the cable to keep it light and strong... <br> <br>I was thinking bamboo for the poles, but that would prevent the ring keeper notches from being used. I love the Copper fittings!

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