Wouldn't it be nice if your walking stick served double duty as a chair?  This walking stick functions just as well as a stationary resting device as well as it does as a mobility enabler. 

Trying to find a place to rest on the trail can be a challenge; especially when the woods are wet.
Carrying a camp chair in your pack seems like an unnecessary luxury, however, if the hiking stick you were planning on carrying anyway could serve as a lounge chair, you just might want to indulge.

This Instructable describes the steps for making a convertible walking stick with an accessory seat.  At a height of 6 feet when fully assembled, the walking stick is really more of a Hiking Staff however, the 3 piece design makes it easy to transport and allows it to convert into a seat.

 But there's more...

This is the first in a series of Instructables demonstrating the versatility of this Hiking Staff.  Subscribe if you don't want to miss the next two sequel Instructables:

- Decorative and functional copper shod finial staff ends with storage

- Staff-top provision for an illuminating torch

Step 1: Staff Size

Walking Stick Material:
(3) 1” diameter hard wood dowels (each 2 feet in length).  I used oak for this project.

1: Cut  (3) three dowels 24 inches long.  These will be referred to as the Upper Section, Lower Section & Middle Section

Most of the new high tech walking sticks on the market today are the short (Trek) ski pole variety. Personally, I prefer a taller staff when hiking.  For me, the trail challenge is not so much the uphill incline, as it is the descent; especially while carrying a pack.

A grip near the top of a taller staff allows it to extend well downhill while the body remains upright during a descent.

The only negative I have found with a Hiking Staff is the inevitable accusation of sheep herding or the resemblance to Moses (which happens despite the lack of beard credentials) .
<p>Very cool! I plan on making one for myself and scaled down ones for the 2 boys ( aged 9 and 10) that I spend time with hiking and camping.</p>
<p>I like this. But on Step 4 you make no mention of how high up the poles the notches should be placed.</p>
Would using copper all the way through instead of the wood work? Would it weigh less or more? That way you could potentially use the inside of the tube for storage.
<p>Have you ever been at the top of a mountain when a squall suddenly comes up and the air is full of electricity? I have, it's SCARY, and the last thing I'd want in my hand is a metal rod!</p>
I imagine a copper tube would be harder on your hands; and less springy and 'forgiving' then a good choice of timber. <br> <br>And even more uncomfortable again during cold weather (needs insulating hand grip..).. <br> <br>And lightning storms...
Fun build, looking forward to using in Hawaii next week!
<p>Great instructable!!! I use a very small drill bit to put pilot holes where the jb weld can really get into the wood, and also I use melted wax on the threads and the threads only! to prevent the JB weld from getting into them. after 24 hours it melts off with very little heat and boom! I've made a few of these with and without the seat option, and all my friends that hike now sweat by them when I put the torch or storage that you've designed. Thanks for posting all of these!!!</p>
<p>swear by them... although I'm sure they've sweated with them too. </p>
<p>Great Instructable! I plan on making one using paracord or nylon rope as a handle that I can then unwrap and use to lash the legs instead of the ring (afraid I'll lose it). Question: do the threads snug down when assembling the staff? The pictures appear to show them not snugged down. </p><p>Thanks!</p>
<p>i nominated you for a 3 mo pro membership for this awesome walking stick series great work</p>
<p>Soooooo Cool might even do this in our scout troop!</p><p>A++ work man!</p>
This was Awesome. Thank you so much for this wonderful idea.
Excellent. Brilliant system
<p>i see a problem with the middle section, if you use the chair on anything other than soft dirt, you are going to mar the threads on the male fittings, and it wont go back together. perhaps a rubber foot or something could be placed on the end before use.</p>
<br> Hi !! <br> <br> I love it! It is more than good for a farmer and a sheppard(?) like me ! <br> I made a chair like this some years ago but it was only able to sit on it. That was it. <br> <br> This is REALLY good. Thank you. <br> <br>
<br>The correct spelling is &quot;shepherd&quot;, to answer your question mark on the first line, Devrimm... <br> <br>(THIS reply isn't rude ~ 'Devrim' did have a question mark in there; that everybody seems to have missed !).
needs to glow in the dark
A spray can of luminescent paint will only cost a few $$$ ~ then you can spray a spiral pattern down along and around the length of the staff... <br> <br>AND a 1/4&quot; x 20 t.p.i. bolt screwed into the top of the staff and cut off gives you a &quot;monopod&quot; for cameras and binoculars.. <br> <br>I ALSO add a wrist strap/leash to all of the staffs/walking sticks I make.
That's pretty cool, and it beats sitting on the wet ground, too.
has any 1 thought of using a grade 12 washer by chance?
a fine looking staff Sir! I may have to adapt and copy your copper fitting joint and stub out tip to craft some support poles for my vintage camper's awning! will look so much better than an aluminum extendo pole
This is one of the most amazing sets of instructables I've seen in a long time. I love hiking and all of these hiking staff ideas are really wonderful. Have you ever thought of selling these?
Very very cool! I have been looking at putting together a hiking staff. For me it has to have two main things it does well. It has to work well for walking and for self defense. I like the idea of a multi functional staff, but wasn't sure how to do that without compromising the defensive part of the staff. Your copper fitting idea might just do the trick. The staff should be sturdy enough to not break when you hit something. Also, the copper fittings on the end should increase it's effectiveness as a defensive tool. I am thinking of getting a 6 foot bo staff and using that.
Could pvc be used to make this? I don't know if it would be strong enough but it would be lighter.
So I am larger by far than most people (6'7&quot; 280#) and was thinking of a larger diameter dowel for the legs. I was wondering if anyone else would know if the 1 1/4 diameter legs would fit in the 2&quot; id ring, if not, would cutting the nitches deeper (1/4&quot; to 5/8&quot;) would allow the ring to work or if any one knows of a larger ring (HD didn't have anything larger). I also plan on making the whole thing closer to 30-34&quot; folded length giving me a taller staff and taller stool. <br> <br> I thought I would throw it out to the community at large <br> <br>Thanks <br>BenT
Same problem here, not as tall (6' even, 230lbs) but yes, I would use a larger dowel. I would say, having done some tweaking-ish things like this before, that our pest possible option is to scale it up precisely. If you use a 2&quot; dowel, use a 4&quot; ring, or whatever in between. I would probably use a 1 1/2&quot; dowel with a 3&quot; ring. As to finding the ring, Ebay is a wonderful place for random fiddly things like that. <br>Regards, the Ninja of Suburbia
would you be able to sell one to me ?? locospud@hotmail.com ill pay ya for one
Many thanks for your post, albeit a couple years ago. This solved a problem I couldn't figure out. After making a Sassafras hiking staff, it was requested it be able to break down to fit into luggage. The hammer-in and screw-in threaded anchors with a threaded bolt weren't machined closely enough to prevent wobble. This should definitely do the trick. <br>&quot;ThisIsIt&quot; -- you are also correct. I too, noticed the gap, but it was before I even left the hardware store and the guy helping me explained the same thing you did. I, however, did not think about the coupler to cover the gap. Awesome idea! Thanks a ton! <br>
This is Brilliant! I was thinking of using spliced 7/64&quot; amsteel instead of the cable to keep it light and strong... <br> <br>I was thinking bamboo for the poles, but that would prevent the ring keeper notches from being used. I love the Copper fittings!
I've been using this for some time now. Stays in the car. It's sturdy and comfortable enough on a long hike. Also has multiple uses or maybe even endless.
AWESOME!!!!!!!! I used to be a boy scout in troop 10 which is on the theodore roosevelt council but my mom didn't let me stay because of all the work in 6th grade.
Oh my god yes.<br>I'm going camping/backpacking in a few weeks and this is PERFECT. <br>Great 'ible, soon my grandparents and all their hiking friends will be using these too.<br>So much better than just a boring old hiking staff.
thanks this walking stick is going to be in a boy scout contest<br>
I tried a 2&quot; ring and it wouldnt fit around all three dowels. Ideas?
Was the 2&quot; for the outer measurement or the inner? If it's a 2&quot; outer diameter, it won't fit. You need the inside diameter to be 2&quot;.<br><br>(Wow, can I write 2&quot; any more in this post??)
Update. OK, so I got this thing together finally. I have some thoughts and changes that I made. 1. The seat. I didn't/don't find it too small for a seat used for hiking. It isn't a lounge chair. However instead of using the complicated method of the cable, cotter pins, and drilling holes, I used a sewing needle(well my wife did:)). Actually I cut my triangle to about 1&quot; bigger then it would wind up. I purchased material adhesive and sprayed this onto the material. I then folded over a 1&quot; edge on the whole triangle. It doesn't have to be perfect but close. Then I cut three pieces each in a triangle to match the three corners of the seat. The three pieces were also cut bigger and then folded over on the edges. This will give double support later on. Then my wife sewed the pieces onto the bottom of the seat material on two sides of each triangle. The idea once finished is you just slip each pole into the triangle of the seat bottoms. This causes the seat to stick up on the poles a little but it's still functional. 2. I still used two part epoxy but I took extra precaution. After you get everything set on the poles with the epoxy this is an easy addition. I drilled through each copper fitting perpendicular to the wooden sticks(Don't remember drill bit size). Then I used a bigger bit to bevel the edge a little. I purchased a piece of brass rod(actually my father-in-law had a piece). Cut a piece of brass a little longer then the width of the copper fitting. You might have to experiment a little with the length. Put the cut piece in the hole and hammer it over a hard surface. I used the edge of my vice. An anvil would be perfect. Also if you have a ball-peen hammer or jewelers hammer it would work better. The brass fills in the bevel and creates a head on it. This should prevent it from backing out once you hammer both sides a little.
Should the 24&quot; cable length specification say 42&quot;? You said to make the sides of the triangles 14&quot;, and 14x3=42.
Never mind, I didn't take into consideration the loss during sewing.
If you traded one of the male fittings on the middle section for the female on the bottom section, you'd be able to make a short stick from just the top and bottom pieces.
Troop 5 is one lucky outfit! Love all three episodes. I did a variation on the traction end. I drilled a hole to accommodate the business end of an aluminum arrow shaft. I then was able to thread in a field point for icy conditions and to get the point across ;) Great ibble
The seat is too small. I weigh 70 pounds and it's too small for me.
Mine works fine with the 3/4&quot; - 3/4&quot; pieces. I just have to insert the piece with the male ends first.
The sections, when screwed together, don't screw flush; there is some threading exposed, correct?<br />
That's what it looks like in all the photos I've seen, and further down this page someone else says theirs is like that too. I think as long as you pay attention when fitting the couplers to the wood you should be able to avoid that. If not, just have to file down the couplers till they mate flush, and then fit the wood.
Upon finally finding some of the fittings to take a look at, there is no way to get them to not have a gap when screwed together. The threads on the fittings are NPT, national pipe thread, which means they taper from smaller to larger as you thread the fitting in. The gap can not be helped... However, you can sweat a piece of 1&quot; copper pipe on to the fitting to cover the threads that are left exposed. Make a simple pattern on it and it should look great. You can even size this cover so that when the two rods are threaded together, the flat spots on the fittings (where the wrench would go) line up with each other and look even better.
Correction, you can't fit 1&quot; pipe over 3/4&quot; threaded fittings. You can use a piece of a 1&quot; coupler to cover the exposed threads. I would probably sweat it on to the female portion, it mates up nicely.
I think that a 16x16x16 triangle world work better because mine seems kinda small and hurts when you sit on it...

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