Add Decorative and Functional Copper Ends to a Hiking Staff.
This is Part 2 in the Multi-Function Walking Stick Instructables series.
The original Multi-Function Walking Stick Instructable describes how to make a Hiking Staff that converts into a Camp Stool.
Part 1 can be found here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
Part 2 Starts Here:
You've seen the three piece walking stick convert into a slick seat with the help of threaded copper plumbing fittings in Part 1. Now however, When swinging it on the trail in hiking mode, this staff needs something to distinguish it from looking like an old broom stick from the garage.
This Instructable describes how to add copper finial ends - that in additon to adding decorative elements to the staff - also add the following features:
- A cleat-like point at the bottom
- A concealed storage compartment at the top
...Stay tuned for Part 3 in this instructable series:
- Staff-Top provisions for an Illuminating Torch
Suscribe if you don't want to miss it.
This is Part 2 in the Multi-Function Walking Stick Instructables series.
The original Multi-Function Walking Stick Instructable describes how to make a Hiking Staff that converts into a Camp Stool.
Part 1 can be found here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
Part 2 Starts Here:
You've seen the three piece walking stick convert into a slick seat with the help of threaded copper plumbing fittings in Part 1. Now however, When swinging it on the trail in hiking mode, this staff needs something to distinguish it from looking like an old broom stick from the garage.
This Instructable describes how to add copper finial ends - that in additon to adding decorative elements to the staff - also add the following features:
- A cleat-like point at the bottom
- A concealed storage compartment at the top
...Stay tuned for Part 3 in this instructable series:
- Staff-Top provisions for an Illuminating Torch
Suscribe if you don't want to miss it.
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Signing UpStep 1: Copper Ends
Copper is my metal of preference. Unfinished it won't rust (tarnish yes, rust no). When lightly polished to a mid-level shine, copper has a certain refined brillance that you don't get from cold chrome and that you can't afford to get from gold.
(Don't remove all its tarnish though; highly polished its hue is too "pink.)
Especially in an outdoor rustic enviornment, copper's orange-brown glow just seems right.
Not only does copper have sophisticated ornamental qualities, it has a nice balance between workability and durability and it's readily available.
Copper raw goods, are easily mined at your local "Har-Whar" store (disguised as common household plumbing) ...Sorry Keweenaw http://www.exploringthenorth.com/ghost/towns.html
The previous copper rant was made possible through a grant by....The Semi-Precious Metals Speculative Investment Group of America and ....the generous donations of your local Pipefitters Union...and readers like you.
....Not really...Sorry, a PBS moment snuck in...
The threaded fitting shown in the middle below was introduced in the first Instructable. The next few steps here detail the cleat-like point on the working end (right) and the finial topper with storage (left).
(Don't remove all its tarnish though; highly polished its hue is too "pink.)
Especially in an outdoor rustic enviornment, copper's orange-brown glow just seems right.
Not only does copper have sophisticated ornamental qualities, it has a nice balance between workability and durability and it's readily available.
Copper raw goods, are easily mined at your local "Har-Whar" store (disguised as common household plumbing) ...Sorry Keweenaw http://www.exploringthenorth.com/ghost/towns.html
The previous copper rant was made possible through a grant by....The Semi-Precious Metals Speculative Investment Group of America and ....the generous donations of your local Pipefitters Union...and readers like you.
....Not really...Sorry, a PBS moment snuck in...
The threaded fitting shown in the middle below was introduced in the first Instructable. The next few steps here detail the cleat-like point on the working end (right) and the finial topper with storage (left).
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I also cut copper nails as decor on the outside.
This is one of the heavier hiking sticks I have ever used and is only good for smaller day trips
:-) You just scored a hat-trick in my book! I *have* to make this multi-purpose staff.
The "grip" on the bottom was the added point. A pointy pole will stick in the ground better than a blunt one.
Regarding welding...with copper its soldering (in plumbing terms its call "sweating a joint". Big difference in termeratures, skill level, equipment cost and safety risk. I encourage you to try it. Clean the copper, brush on the flux paste, heat with propane torch (minimal equip. investment <$20), touch the solder to the hot copper and let capillary action do the rest (melted solder is "pulled" between the mating metal).
Being raised a "Yooper", copper flows in my blood.
That's some very nice file work. Time consuming though. A jewelers fret saw would help some, and a good collection of drill bits.
Instead of lead free solder from the hardware store, a stained glass supplier has copper colored solder. I know from experience most any plumbing solder looks dull and gray after it oxidizes. Silver solder is slower to oxidize, but more care must be taken.
All in all I would say an excellent piece of work and is a 'do-able' instructable for anyone who has a few low cost tools and an eye for creativity.
It's really good quality, made my dad a cane with some last year.
Wax Wood, White Wax Wood is a product of China, and is also known as Ligustrum lucidum. The real stuff is also known as the Chinese privet (or Broadleaf Privet.) This wood is TOUGH, and very hard to break, which is why it is found in many martial arms products like the Bo Staff (the Chinese quarterstaff) and spear shafts. Many martial arts store can sell you such a staff and it will make an extremely strong and long lasting staff. While tough and flexible, with a hard wood toughness in working it, it is susceptible to wood worm. Easily enough treated, with standard wood treatments for the wee beasties to keep them away from your prize staff. A common Bo staff is more then tall enough to cut into three sections and make the chair staff, as well as having more then enough strength to last a couple of generations! A good idea might be to make the three section staff, but assembly only the first and last to make a two section staff for the kids. As they grow into the staff, you can add the third section when needed. In this way, they have the gift of your staff for all their lives, a great gift indeed.
Just heard from a buddy that he is finishing his staff with a tung oil/beeswax 'rub' (2 to 1 ratio), that you heat in a double boiler and rub into the wood while a bit hot.
You can supposedly make it work better if the wood is warm, or your doing this out on the sunlight. It is supposed to really penetrate, and finshes with a gloss when it cools. Will try this on a name plaque to go outside and see how it handles the summer.
For those concerned about copper tarnish, a coat of clear poly does well. To enhance the grip, do a whipping (mason line does well). For further decoration perhaps a turkshead or two. You can also engrave a pattern on the copper, heat it up and apply solder, then fine emery to polish. The solder stays in the engraving, looks like silver inlay.
By the by, save your copper filings. Mixed with glue you can apply it to wood engravings and it becomes a copper inlay. Hmmm, maybe a vine motif down the staff?