Multi-Function Walking Stick II - Storage Compartment

Step 10 Take a Hike

Now this Multi-Function Walking Stick has some spiffy additional features.  It first, and foremost, certainly still functions as a hiking staff.  It still makes a decent seat.  And now... it has a sure footing and storage on top.  

With a little extra effort to add a few style details in the copper, hopefully, it no longer looks like a dowel stuck in a pipe.

Adding decorative copper ends to your walking stick just might make your staff the envy of other hikers on the trail, or at the very least, the envy of all the other broom sticks in your closet.


Part 3 In the Multi-Function Walking Stick Instructables series is on the way.

Suscribe so you don't miss how to add a torch to the staff to light the way!

Comments

[Knyte7]

Wonderful Instructable. Clear descriptions and excellent pictures for a great project. Allows me to take my amateur stick making to the next level. Thanks for sharing your time and expertise.

[porcupinemamma]

Very pretty!  Questions: How do you add a few stylish details? Did I miss the information about the grip on the bottom of the walking stick? I would love to make this, but I have never welded befor.  Guess it's time to learn lol ;0)

[hpstoutharrow]

 I didn't go into any real detail on "stylish details".  It was just meant to mean the pattern of shapes cut into the copper fittings (the crown peaks, the scallops, or the flame pattern).  Obviously there is a lot of flexibility for others to express their creative flare with their own designs.  These were all made with hand files (half round, flat, and rat tail).  Copper is relatively soft and takes a file nicely without a lot of effort.

The "grip" on the bottom was the added point.  A pointy pole will stick in the ground better than a blunt one.

Regarding welding...with copper its soldering (in plumbing terms its call "sweating a joint".  Big difference in termeratures, skill level, equipment cost and safety risk.  I encourage you to try it.  Clean the copper, brush on the flux paste, heat with propane torch (minimal equip. investment <$20), touch the solder to the hot copper and let capillary action do the rest (melted solder is "pulled" between the mating metal).  

[WILL62]

I think PorcupineMamma wants to know about "WELDING" with J B Weld as in heat and torch ......savvy ? She does'nt know its epoxy glue methinks..

[justgettingstarted]

There's a trick to soldering copper that a pipefitter friend showed me. First, use as little heat as necessary to get your solder to flow. Second and more important, apply the heat to the backside of what you're soldering while applying the solder to the frontside. As you've said, the solder will be drawn in by capillary action. As soon as you see a nice concave fillet (that's the opposite of a convex bead) of solder between the pipe and fitting, you're done. Don't keep adding solder until it runs out, thinking 'that can't be enough.' It is. This helps to prevent "gobbing" or "bubblegumming" of the solder. As soon as the joint is soldered, quickly and carefully wipe off any excess solder with a moist rag. Makes for a nice clean joint without piles of extra solder.

[shining_wizard]

Fantastic! I'm eagerly awaiting the torch portion. I note in the previous tutorial that you show how the three legs fit in the ring, I was curious if you had any ideas for a way to store it in that position to keep the seat and torch together with it. I thought perhaps a small canvas tote of some kind like the ones used for those fold out camping chairs with a drawstring could keep all the pieces compact to fit in a backpack when not in use. Definitely going to invest in a small soldering set-up, it's a great skill to possess. Cheers!

[RavingMadStudios]

Wow. This thing just keeps getting cooler. I can't wait to see the next installment. Staff + stool + storage = really cool.
Staff + stool + storage + torch = awesome.