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Step 7: Torch - In use Position

Flip the torch over from the Stored Position to the In-use Position and install it in the Slip Fitting point end down.  

1. Unscrew the Brass Cap and extend the wick. 
2. Light and glow

Note:  When using the torch, the Brass Cap can be stored in the remaining storage area under the torch.
<p>you could cut each stick to 22 inches instead of 24 to make a staff 6 inches shorter or as short as 18 inches to make the staff 18 inches shorter for shorter people. keep in mind that each cut will make the chair shorter , but an 18 inch high stool would work for some people. Ideally, your staff should be about 6 to 8 inches higher than your head to avoid impaling yourself.</p>
<p>Elkhart #30500 1/2x6 COP Air Chamber</p><p>Amazon</p>
<p>how heavy is the torch insert</p>
About how much did all of it cost to make?
can it still be used as a chair?
Sir, you are amusing and clever. Very, very well done 'ible, and quite useful. <br>Frelling cool, dude! <br>Great idea! :))
I love this and I fully intend to build one but I must know what the final wight is up to this point
One great aspect about this is that the fuel and flame are housed in a unit modular enough to be replaced easily, and re-filled.&nbsp; You could conceivably make a dozen &quot;torches&quot; and swap them in and out of the setting drum.&nbsp;&nbsp; Your staff design is professional, and I encourage you to pursue the modularity aspect of this -- what else can go in that 1&quot; socket?&nbsp; Excellent work, thanks for sharing.<br />
I have a mental image of a bandoleer stocked with dozens of torch modules.
ca
but will it blend?<br>
what is the average burn time of the torch before you need to refill the fuel?
Just a thought about the problem of only being able to have a torch or a storage compartment:<br> <br> If you looked at each end less like the &quot;top&quot; and the &quot;bottom&quot; and more like exchangeable tips it might free you&nbsp;up a little more with your options. For instance, when the torch is&nbsp;in &quot;stowed&quot; mode&nbsp;it would be just as useful as a &quot;cleat&quot; as the bottom would (provided it was attached tightly enough). If you made both the top and bottom have storage compartments, and then made the storage compartment lid with a tip (you could even use the same stub out piece) then you could just turn the staff over depending on which end you wanted to use.<br> <br> If you want to use the storage compartment, stow the torch and flip&nbsp;the staff&nbsp;over to use it as a cleat. If you want to use the torch flip it over and use the storage side, with a new pointed cap, as the cleat.<br> <br> I hope that makes sense. Either way, great series of instructables. I love the usability you've managed to get out of a &quot;simple&quot; walking staff, combined with the beauty you've managed to maintain by using natural materials that pair well together. Keep up the amazing work.
&nbsp;nice idea but my led light is much brighter and lasts longer
I concur<br />
Yeah but I bet you can't light stuff on fire with your LED light!
Does anyone know were to get a stub out like that with the fat part 3/4 inch pipe? I cant even find one that reduces at the end especially in my size
cant you use kerosene for like a lantern?
Looks like you really did your homework on this one! Looks great and could save a life if need be! If you want to get an understanding of what you need when out and about in the wilds, watch &quot;I Shouldn't be Alive&quot; some time and see where they screw up and don't make the same mistakes! Thanks again for the great Instructible!
Thanks for posting such a great instructable this helps me alot when im at my cabin when going on midnight walks through the woulds
Awesome instructable i am starting this project as soon as my stub outs (aka) air chambers arrive.here is a great source for the afor mentioned items <br>WWW.globalindustries.com <br>stock# wib30162 1/2 x 6 in. copper air chamber $6.12 <br>and if ya want a longer torch <br>stock# wib30164 1/2 x 14 in copper air chamber $12.60 ..Ya know for that extra burn time. <br>I suggest this site to everyone here they seem to carry just about everthing under the sun <br>once again great instructable
My apoligies to everyone the web site is as follows <br>www.globalindustrial.com <br>industrial not industries sorry for any confusion i may have caused.. <br>have fun all and keep tinkering with all the goodies just laying aroung the homestead
Glad you were able to locate the most critical part. Tried the link you referenced however, and it redirected to a login screen??. Could you double check and repost the link. I want to check out the 14&quot; air chamber for another project. Thanks.<br>
AMAZING. WANT. i will definetely try this. might try to use an old empty C02 cartridge instead of the copper thing though.
Brilliant, I loved the first iteration, the second iteration was awesome, this one is brilliant! Keep up the work!
would you need to cut the sticks shorter after part two and part three for it to still function as a seat?
also how do you put the flame out
please mr south arrow tell us about that other amazing thing called H20.
all 3 legs of the chair should be the same length, it would be kinda unstable otherwise, and as far as putting out the flame, a good hard breath of air always puts mine out every time. i am working on some kind or wind shield similar to a zippo-lighter-type thing, if i can get it wo work well enough to make me happy, i'll post more on how to add it
excellent opening speech ...........you are a genius.....cool staff too......long live the sun.
Funny led&acute;s comments. They dont get the point Nothing better like fire...awesome Ible....as always.<br>
you sure let them have it thanks for sharing shame on them!
yo thats a one nasty stuff totally love it ! btw does it have any weapons ?
If i were to make one i would use a light not a flame <br>
Love it. Fantastic, creative project with thorough, detailed instructions. Excellent job.
Explain where the brass cap end stored in the staff's storage area?
Watch the video.
Here are some huge problems with using tiki fuel, kerosene or any other oil-based fuels for this project : not only are they a viable fuel for a torch, they are also oil based SOLVENTS and slow to evaporate.... <br> <br>Most wood sealers, protectors and stains are also oil based, therefore if these would happen to leak or spill while the torch is on the staff, they will discolor, weaken or even completely strip most protective coatings used on the wood sections. Another problem they could create is saturation into the wood and your staff body becoming the torch when the oil-soaked wood ignites, real bad if you are sitting on it in chair form! <br> <br>Another problem oil based fuels could create is little drips of flaming fuel, this tendancy of those type of fuels is one reason tiki torches always have a metal flange on the top. <br> <br>As far as alcohol not being safe, alcohol is just as safe as any other torch fuels or kerosene when used PROPERLY. It will only &quot;explode&quot; or rapid burn when in vapor form, usually caused by release of pressurized vapor caused by heat. This is the cause of the fireball people have expirenced while trying to use poorly constructed or too-hot DIY stoves. This design, with the open top + wick, simply doesn't allow this to happen because any excess vapors generated are free to travel out of the hole and never build up to dangerous levels. With that being said, remember any thing that will burn will also explode under the right (or wrong, depending on point-of-view) conditions. <br> <br>These are just my observations and feelings about the safty of using anything other than alcohol. I hope some of the points i wanted to convey were helpful :) <br> <br>I made mine and incorperated a little change to the design some people may want to use also. I drilled a hole in the tip of the bottom cap and put a 1/4 inch stainless steel capped nut inside the end before adding the JB weld, i held it in place with a normal nut and bolt, from the outside, until the epoxy had setup. the capped nut kept the epoxy out of the threads but allowed the JB weld to cement it in place so it won't turn. The next thing i did was got some 1/4 inch, grade 8 bolts (other grades would probably work too, but not last as long), and made feet for on the bottom that will last through rough use way longer than just a copper cap. i made a few different varieties for different purposes (pointed and rounded) they are held in place after i screw them in by tightening a nut on the outside. <br> <br>Yet another great project from hpstouthharrow, i love mine and use it all the time, i plan on making more for friends that have offered to buy mine... but they will have to wait for christmas :P
oops: <br>edit: <br>****Most wood sealers, protectors and stains are also oil based, therefore if these fuels would happen to leak**** <br>sorry about that :) <br>
This walking stick is way cool. It would be cool to add more stuff to it.
Thats cool but i thought of a way to improve it so you dont have to flip in in and out and light it. You could find a way to hollow out the stick and put some sort of leaver thing in it and have the cap on a hing. Inside the cap there can be some type of spark source and as you push it up the cap opens makes a spark and lights the torch.<br />
that would be possible but it would be too complicated
May I&nbsp;suggest for part IV; a pointed stake at the bottom so the torch can be used without having to be held?<br />
theres alreadya point on the bottom
Ahh I see, thanks for pointing that out!<br />
Excelent work.
This is such a badass staff. I'm planning on making the first part soon.<br />
5 stars faved and subed just for step 1!
about how much did all this cost you from part 1 to 3<br />

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