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Due to the nature of my work I tend to run slings pretty roughly and as a result, I tend to change them out relatively often. When my last sling started showing wear and tear, I patched it up and kept moving with it because I was just not going to spend $40 on another sling. It wasn't until my rifle completely came off the hook and made friends with the dirt that I decided that enough was enough and I needed a new sling. The search began.

Low price; quality; features - everything I came across was lacking in one of these traits and so the only choice left was to make my own. Besides, who knows more about what I want in a sling than me. I did my research, drew up a sketch, and ordered the components.

The result more than exceeded even my expectations! From setup to completion was about four hours, with plenty of learning in-between. I'm pretty confident though, that I could complete another one in under an hour.

Step 1: Nuts & Bolts

Tools
• Rotary Cutter (or Scissors)
• Sewing Machine (or Hand Needles)
• Lighter
• Stapler
• Ruler
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Materials List
1.5" MultiCam Webbing - $10
1.5" D-Ring - $0.59
• 2 - 1.5" Triglides - $0.98
• 2 - 1.25" MASH Hooks - $6.50
• (optional) Heavy Duty Thread - $8.49
• (optional) Grip Tape - $9.99

Shipping & Handling = $6 (roughly)

Total Cost: $24.07 (or $42.55 w/ optional items)
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I went with plastic hardware but feel free to upgrade to sturdier metal ones.

There are some ways to bring the final price down if you're cost-conscious:

• Find what you can locally and save on shipping
• Use 1" webbing and matching size hardware
• Use webbing of a different color, MultiCam is expensive
• Buy a smaller spool of thread or use what you have lying around
• Instead of fancy grip tape - consider clear tape, or color duct tape

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<p>I've made several slings (black), but not as good as yours. I've found that the best way to cut nylon or polyester webbing is to use a thin or sharp point on a woodburning iron (available as a set with 8 tips from Harbor Freight for under $10) This cuts and seals at the same time. You can even shape the edge, either blunting it a making it sort of a stop or molding it with the flat part of the point to make the end thinner and tapered. It works well for cutting and sealing paracord and most artificial fiber ropes too.</p>
Awesome write-up, man! I've been thinking about making my own 3-point sling for a while now. I missed my old one from the Corps and didn't feel like shelling out $50+ for one.
Thanks a lot! Good idea to. I think I'll make one myself

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